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nickrey

"Eleven Madison Park: The Cookbook"

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mm84321   

Made another few recipes from the book today.

"Sea Urchin Salad with Lobster, Scallops and Potatoes"

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"Lobster Poached with Fennel, Orange and Persimmons"

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mm84321   

Cauliflower Roasted with Grapes, Almonds and Curry.

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Beef with Bone Marrow Crust, Swiss Chard and Braised Oxtail.

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The part I like most about this cookbook is the pages at the back with all the gel, sorbet, and crumble recipes. It's not something I've seen in too many other books, ones that provide a bunch of specific recipes for stuff like that.

If they only could have at least included metric measurements in the recipes, it would have been very hard to beat for book of the year. Somehow, I doubt that the kitchen at EMP uses recipes with amounts given in cups and tablespoons.

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mm84321   

Oyster Vichyssoise.

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"Fantasy of Eggs"

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Scallop Ceviche with Fennel ,Tangerine and Tarragon.

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Pink Snapper Poached with Pears, Parsnips and Razor Clams.

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Wow, mm84321, your presentation and photos are awe-inspiring. For anyone who doesn't yet own the book but would like to know more about it, we have just indexed it on Eat Your Books http://bit.ly/vWufoE. It's worth a look - 376 recipes and many of them have over 30 ingredients (and we don't list the basics). I'm looking forward to getting the book back from the indexer though for me it will be more a good read than to cook from, spare time being what I'm lacking these days. One of the best meals of my life was at EMP and I can see why when you see from the book the time, effort and expense that goes into every single dish.

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I have a question for mm84321 (or anyone else who's made it) on the Beef with Bone Marrow Crust, Swiss Chard and Chanterelles: I see that the recipe for the Bordelaise sauce calls for 4 cups of veal jus, which is then reduced to 2 cups. Did you find that you actually used that much sauce when plating the dish? I ask because it's not easy for me to get veal bones, so if I can scale back the veal jus recipe, I'd like to do so.


Edited by mkayahara (log)

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mm84321   

I have a question for mm84321 on the Beef with Bone Marrow Crust, Swiss Chard and Chanterelles: I see that the recipe for the Bordelaise sauce calls for 4 cups of veal jus, which is then reduced to 2 cups. Did you find that you actually used that much sauce when plating the dish? I ask because it's not easy for me to get veal bones, so if I can scale back the veal jus recipe, I'd like to do so.

Good question. If you follow the exact quantities for most of the sauces in this book, you will end up with much, much more than you actually need. And veal jus is not exactly a cheap, or quick, ingredient to make. You are basically reducing the amount of jus by half to obtain your sauce. So, think of how much sauce you will need (maybe 1/4 to 1/2 cup for 4 people) and use double that amount of jus in place of the recommended 4 cups. Then just add the other ingredients to taste.

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Thanks for the comprehensive and prompt reply! That's sort of what I figured. I was planning to make a half batch. If even that ends up being too much, I assume I can always freeze the remainder.

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mm84321   

Thanks for the comprehensive and prompt reply! That's sort of what I figured. I was planning to make a half batch. If even that ends up being too much, I assume I can always freeze the remainder.

No problem. You'll enjoy making it, I think, at least once. The production of roasting 25 pounds of veal bones, and reducing a liquid for over 12 hours is always healthy every now and then. If you lived closer I'd let you borrow a container. But that might take out all the excitement of doing it yourself!

Yes. It can be frozen for later use. Thank heaven.


Edited by mm84321 (log)

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I finally made the beef with bone marrow crust dish this past weekend. Definitely a lot of fun to make, and a delicious dish. I omitted the yellow chard sprouts, and substituted maitake for the chanterelles, which I can't get locally. I think the recipe is out to lunch calling for 3 bottles of wine to marinate 2 pounds of oxtail, and 8 cups of veal stock to braise it, so I reduced it to one bottle of wine and 3 cups of veal stock, and still thought the results were delicious. It was a challenge at serving time, when I realized I needed about 7 burners to put the dish together (I have only 4): one for the mushrooms, one for the swiss chard, one for the oxtail, one for the sauce, one to melt the marrow fat, one for the garlic-thyme butter, and one for the potatoes. So I melted the marrow fat directly in the sauce, warmed the butter in the microwave, and heated the oxtail through, then set it off to the side while I finished everything else.

06 - Beef with bone marrow crust, Chard stuffed with oxtail, Bordelaise sauce, Chive potatoes and Maitake mushrooms.jpg

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Did up another EMP dish for dinner last night: Malt sorbet with olive oil and black pepper. It was a little tough quenelling the sorbet; clearly the recipe wasn't formulated for a home ice cream maker. (I should probably have endeavoured to find some liquid nitrogen...) Sadly, while I was dehydrating the meringue, my dehydrator died... luckily, it finished the job before it went kaput!

4. Malted Milk Sorbet.jpg

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The 'chilled' corn soup is very good. Even when you don't quite follow some pretty important instructions.

For example:

-- Corn juice. I don't own a juicer and, yes, I know, I know, I could just blitz a metric shit load (or perhaps imperial, given Humm's favouring of an uncivilised measurement system) of corn kernals and strain the resulting pulp, but I didn't. I upended a bag of just-thawed frozen kernals (decent quality, sure, but still) over the pot and, at the end, made sure I blitzed extra well. It seemed to work. I can understand why the recipe specifies juice--they're shooting for a fine, smooth, silky, high-end restaurant soup texture, but for home use, in impolite company, it worked well enough.

-- The heat factor. It's a chilled soup in the book. And yet, right now in Spring, it's still cold. This soup is as nice hot as it is cold (I tried both). I'd make the soup again.

I made a couple of the other elements--the lobster, the pickled baby corn--and made half-arsed subs at a couple of the others. The carefully-made discs of toasted brioche sounds simple enough, but if the only brioche you can get your hands on locally, without a car ride that's very much out of the way when talking about a couple dollars worth of bread, comes in the form of a tiny muffin-shaped thing, well, you improvise. So croutons it was. I also didn't want to travel to find quail's eggs, so I just poached a couple of chicken eggs and artlessly used those. I also didn't make the bavarois, even tho' it's simple and I probably should've. I'll make this again in summer, when I can maybe actually serve this chillied, and then I'll try it with the bavarois, which I suspect will lift the soup to the left level. I'll also sub the lobster out and replace it with, say, yabbies or marrons (the Australian crustacean, not the nut).

EDIT

Has anyone dove into that (brilliant) section at the back of the book, with all the gels and everything?


Edited by ChrisTaylor (log)

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Baselerd   

mm84321 looks amazing!

I too have been on an Eleven Madison Park cooking binge. I will say these are some of the most challenging (but tasty) recipes I have attempted in my life. The nice thing about these recipes is that they make insane amounts of leftovers, and most components keep well for at least a week.

Pork Belly with Peas, Mint, and Lettuce (I used a full-sized belly since suckling pig is just too expensive)

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Quail with Dates, Endives, and Juniper.

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Marble Potato Confit with Pork Shallot Crumble. For this recipe I could not get my hands on any malt-vinegar powder or truffles. So I ended up combining the concepts and just made truffle powder with truffle oil + N-zorbit M.

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Smoked Couscous, compressed melons, lemon vinaigrette

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Lemon and Basil Parfait, [melting] Strawberry Sorbet, meringue.

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Roasted Beets with Goat Cheese Foam and Rye Crumbles/Tuiles

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Chocolate and Milk Textures. This was by far the best dessert I have ever made. Making the frozen chocolate foam with the LN2 was a lot of fun as well, and my first time doing real cooking with LN2 (other than using it in chemistry labs for ice cream). A nice display of my lack of quenelle-ing skills.

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Edited by Baselerd (log)

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mm84321   

Nice stuff, Baselerd. I really liked the orange flower sauce with that quail dish. The couscous looks great.

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mm84321   

I posted these in the dinner thread a few weeks ago, but not here. The pork neck was one of my favorite things I've made from the book. The avocado roulade was good, but it would have been even better during the heat of summer. I've made the cauliflower once last year, and it is delicious, just quite a bit of work.

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mm84321   

And, by the way, the poorly shaped balls of sweet potato on the pork dish is a result of ordering the wrong size parisian scoop and resorting to carving them by hand. :blush:

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Baselerd   

Thanks, your stuff isn't too shabby either. Your plating is almost identical to that from the book - which is to say awesome!

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Baselerd   

And another. This is the Sweet Potato Beignets with chocolate-chestnut honey ganache, cocoa nib crumble, brown butter ice cream, sweet potato sauce, and orange pate de fruit. I unfortunately was out of soy lecithin so I had to skip the orange foam. I substituted honey for chestnut honey (I know it's not the same thing - but I didn't feel like going online to get some) and the result was excellent, but the honey flavor was mainly overpowered by all the others. Not that it was a problem, this dessert was excellent. I probably say this every time I make a new type of ice cream, but anyone who owns this book owes it to themselves to make the brown butter ice cream - simply amazing.

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Edited by Baselerd (log)

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Preparing the hare royale component of the game medley. An impulsive thing: I was walked past a poultry store and they were selling hare considerably cheaper than what I've paid in the past. I figure I'll do something involving porcini to stand in for the truffle toast.

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As per the recipe the hare is sitting in a marinade comprised of red wine, carrots, onion, celery, juniper berries, allspice and black pepper.

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