Jump to content
  • Welcome to the eG Forums, a service of the eGullet Society for Culinary Arts & Letters. The Society is a 501(c)3 not-for-profit organization dedicated to the advancement of the culinary arts. These advertising-free forums are provided free of charge through donations from Society members. Anyone may read the forums, but to post you must create an account.

HowardLi

Sous vide cheesecake?

Recommended Posts

Has anybody tried to do this?

I assume that the cheesecake should set after refrigeration if all of the egg proteins have coagulated, which according to this site, can happen slowly at 78 C for a custard... so if I put my pan into a big pot with 78 C (or 80 or 82) water such that the level is just under the rim of the pan, in about 3 hours (randomly selected time) I should have a thoroughly-done cake.

Ideas?

EDIT: Crust can be blind-baked, of course.


Edited by HowardLi (log)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I think I'm going to try one this weekend. Should I cover the pan with plastic wrap? Loosely cover it with foil to keep lid condensation at bay? Leave it fully open?

Unless someone says otherwise, I will try 78 C water.


Edited by HowardLi (log)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I would leave it open, but, be aware of the air temperature. In school, we bake in convection ovens, the old-fashioned way, so the temperature is fairly even all-around and the circulating air removes some moisture. If you try this in a regulated water bath uncovered, but the room has the AC blasting, the top may not cook well.

I say leave it open because most formulas have some moisture that needs to be released during cooking. Caveat: there may be modernist formulas that work better sealed that I am not aware of. (I want the book, but cannot at this time afford it...)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

In a normal oven with a water bath, though, there is significant humidity; I always get greeted with a huge blast of water vapor when I open the door to check on my cheesecake.

If the humidity is at 100% (as I suspect it normally is), it would be no different than leaving the pot lid on. And the cheesecake does normally turn out very well - it's just easier to "bake" in a pot than an oven.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I've thought about trying this out as well, but haven't had a chance. Douglas Baldwin does have a sous vide creme brulee video on youtube, so I would expect cheesecake to work as well.

edited for spelling


Edited by avaserfi (log)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I just recently made some sous vide cheesecake and the results are great. I bagged the custard and cooked at 80C for 3 hours then piped into molds. The pictured cheesecake I gave a dusting of sugar and bruleed.

IMG_3078%252520edit.jpg

IMG_3080%252520edit.jpg

I talk about it a little more on the link below, but the end result was a resounding success for me.

http://www.consumedgourmet.com/2011/10/low-temperature-sous-vide-cheesecake.html

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

How do you think the freezing affected the texture? Did you only do it so that you could handle them more easily?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Freezing allowed me to unmold them without damaging the cake. I compared some that was frozen to some that wasn't and couldn't detect a textural difference.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

How would you describe the "set" of the egg matrix? Silky, creamy, or nearing a traditionally baked pasty sort of texture?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

It is definitely silky and creamy, but my cheesecake always is. It has some of the lightness a cheesecake gets from the bake, but not quite as much. It feels a little more rich than I have experienced in the past. I attribute this to the lack of any overcooked parts. Traditional cooking methods result in the outside being over-baked while the inside is just right. So, in my experience, the outer portions are a bit lighter in texture than the inside. Not the case here.

After the project was done, I wished I had made some in the oven to compare more scientifically. Maybe next time.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Nice! I've been thinking that cheesecake & sous vide should be a match made in heaven, just needed a starting point. Thanks! :cool:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Was yours very thick after 3 hours ?

I just did a bag at 176f for about 1:20

it was just about getting thick, I piped them into a silicone cannele molds but

may have started to set/clump and I don't think they will be cleanly set in the molds but will see after I freeze them.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Mine had thickened considerably by the time I removed it from the bath.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ok, the consistency and smoothness looks very good so far whilst its chilling.

I was just hoping that I could get them smoothly shaped like canneles and maybe coat them with choc ganache after freezing them.

It would be a good exercise to know how much time affects how much it thickens after reaching a custard setting temp.

I also have some I did in oven with waterbath to compare.


Edited by lennyk (log)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

the 1:20 at 176f was not long enough, they came out a little sloppy,

gonna try at least 2:00 next time, probably use 3 bags and pull at 2:00, 2:30, 3:00

very smooth though

I might try rebagging some of these and doing over.

I tried painting the interior of a silicone cannele mold with choc ganache but it didn't coat nicely.

DSC_5040.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I froze the cheesecake in the molds to prevent any damage when I unmolded them. The final product is extremely tender and is hard to unmold at refrigerator temperatures.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

the 1:20 at 176f was not long enough, they came out a little sloppy,

gonna try at least 2:00 next time, probably use 3 bags and pull at 2:00, 2:30, 3:00

very smooth though

I might try rebagging some of these and doing over.

I tried painting the interior of a silicone cannele mold with choc ganache but it didn't coat nicely.

The little pocket in the top is begging for something to be put in it. Something fruity, or perhaps a graham cracker streusel as a nod to the tradition.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I did them over for an extra 30mins and firmed up a bit, much better.

Very good texture.

Yes it would look good with something in the centre dripping over.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I realize this is an old thread but there really isnt much information out there for making cheese cakes sous vide. Im wondering if making a thick, dense (no air bubbles) new york style cheese cake could be done in a bag and piped into a springform pan to brown in the oven and then left to set up in the fridge? Or must this be done directly in the springform pan (bagged and submerged)?

Would the filling set up in the bag, or does it only set up after cooling down?

Also, aside from a vacuum chamber, whats the best way to remove any air in the filling before cooking?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'm not sure what a New York one is like (it's a long way from here), but there is this recipe I spotted probably a couple of years ago - sorry, no idea now of the source:

  • Cream cheese 100%
  • Whole eggs 20%
  • Egg yolks 7.5%
  • Corn starch 1.9%

Seal and cook at 80°C for three hours. When cooked, pipe into moulds and freeze. Unmould while still frozen, roll in powdered sugar and brulée (which will begin defrosting while giving a crispy exterior).

This treatment doesn't sound like what you're planning, but the basic recipe may be of some use. It does suggest the answer to your question about piping is 'yes'.

I've never got round to trying this, but it remains on my list. Maybe when the Anova gets here ...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'm going to preface this with the disclaimer that I'm very much a proponent of modern techniques and ingredients in cooking. Now I'm going to follow that by asking, if a New York style cheesecake is the goal, why would you want to go to the trouble of adapting it to sous vide? I'm not asking why as in "just bake it dummy", I'm asking why as in what is the specific goal you have in mind that makes doing it sous vide a better option than the, pretty much never fail, traditional way of doing a New York cheesecake. I've done sous vide cheesecake recipes that were good for their application but not at all like a New York style. I've also done a few versions using various hydrocolloids which made them "no bake" cheesecakes. They weren't anything like a New York style either. Even if you get the density right, the texture isn't the same. I guess what I'm trying to figure out is, do you want a New York style cheesecake or do you just want a more dense cheesecake? Because I haven't seen a result from any "modernist" cheesecake variation that even comes close in quality to the traditional if New York style is the specific goal.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'm going to preface this with the disclaimer that I'm very much a proponent of modern techniques and ingredients in cooking. Now I'm going to follow that by asking, if a New York style cheesecake is the goal, why would you want to go to the trouble of adapting it to sous vide? I'm not asking why as in "just bake it dummy", I'm asking why as in what is the specific goal you have in mind that makes doing it sous vide a better option than the, pretty much never fail, traditional way of doing a New York cheesecake. I've done sous vide cheesecake recipes that were good for their application but not at all like a New York style. I've also done a few versions using various hydrocolloids which made them "no bake" cheesecakes. They weren't anything like a New York style either. Even if you get the density right, the texture isn't the same. I guess what I'm trying to figure out is, do you want a New York style cheesecake or do you just want a more dense cheesecake? Because I haven't seen a result from any "modernist" cheesecake variation that even comes close in quality to the traditional if New York style is the specific goal.

Problems Ive had in the past using my (very old) oven are #1 cracking.#2 rising too high around the edges and sinking in the middle.#3 done on the outside still soft in the middle. Those are the 3 main reasons that have alot to do with my old oven and the fact that its built into the wall and is slightly off level so i have to rotate cake pans every 10 minutes so the batters dont pool into one side. I rent so replacing the oven is not an option unless it completely breaks.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'm not sure what a New York one is like (it's a long way from here), but there is this recipe I spotted probably a couple of years ago - sorry, no idea now of the source:

  • Cream cheese 100%
  • Whole eggs 20%
  • Egg yolks 7.5%
  • Corn starch 1.9%

Seal and cook at 80°C for three hours. When cooked, pipe into moulds and freeze. Unmould while still frozen, roll in powdered sugar and brulée (which will begin defrosting while giving a crispy exterior).

This treatment doesn't sound like what you're planning, but the basic recipe may be of some use. It does suggest the answer to your question about piping is 'yes'.

I've never got round to trying this, but it remains on my list. Maybe when the Anova gets here ...

New york style is a very tall with a bottom crust and a light dusting of crumbs or nuts on the sides, or plain on the sides and gets browned ontop and the sides to have a semi hard thin shell and a rich thick,dense,creamy, tangy inside. Its best i can explain.

I dont care for those soft, light texture cheesecakes that seem to sag in the middle of the slice.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I think im going to try sous vide directly in the springform pan, inside a jumbo size ziplock bag @ 176F for 3 hours, then finish in a 425F oven till the top browns. I think starting with a recipe that makes a NY style will give me the texture im looking for. My wife wants me to make it a pumpkin cheesecake.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

  • Similar Content

    • By pastrygirl
      Cake construction question - I have a wedding cake order next month for about 175 people.  I think it's going to be 14" round, 12" round, double-height 9" round, and a separated 6" layer with her great-grandma's cake topper.
       
      My question is about the double-height layer.  Should I layer cake and filling as usual  but just make it super tall, or will whomever has to cut the thing appreciate it if there's a goo-free zone of cake-cardboard-cake in the middle so they can separate it into 2 x 9" cakes or more easily cut it?  I mean, I could make two regular layers with 5 layers of cake and 4 layers of filling, not frost the top of one and just stack the other on top, or I could make one giant cake with 10 layers of cake, 9 filling, and no cardboard in the middle.  I almost never have to cut cakes so I don't know if it matters but I thought I'd ask.  The filling will either be salty caramel or raspberry, and the icing will be meringue buttercream, not as sturdy to handle as a crusting icing or fondant.
       
      Or any other tips on giant wedding cakes?  Thanks!
    • By WhiskerBiscuit
      I’m using this recipe to try and make a perfect rice pudding.
       
      Ingredients:
       
      1-2 Tbsp medium-grain white rice, such as arborio (often called risotto rice), calriso, or another california-grown rice--do not wash! 2/3 c additional long-grain or short-grain rice to make 2/3 cups rice total 4 c milk (skim, 1%, 2%, whole, or a combination) 1/3-1/2 c sugar, to taste 1 tsp pure vanilla extract   Recipe:   Place the rice and milk in the rice cooker bowl; stir to combine. Close the cover and set for the Porridge cycle. When the machine switches to the Keep Warm cycle, open the rice cooker, and add the sugar and vanilla, quickly stirring it into the rice milk mixture. Stir until combined. Close the cover and reset for a second Porridge cycle. Stir every 15 to 20 minutes until the desired consistency is reached. Warning: cooking the sugar for more than about 1/2-hour makes the pudding difficult to clean from the rice cooker bowl, so don't add sugar at the beginning of cooking (although the rice pudding comes out fine)! Rice mixture will thicken as it cools. If it comes out too thick, just add more milk.    I initially tried it out using all arborio rice (because that’s all I head on hand), but as the recipe noted it came out too starchy.  However it was really good, but not what I was looking for.  The second time I used the suggested rice mixture.  But looking at other recipes and Kozy Shack’s ingredient list, I decided to add a couple of egg yolks.  At the end of the second porridge cycle (total cooking time 90 minutes) I added two coddled egg yolks (I almost pasteurized them with my sous vide, but that was a little overboard even for me).  The texture was a little too thick, so I added a tablespoon or so of milk and then thought it was too thin so I kept with the porridge cycle.  I checked about 15 minutes later and my thick porridge all of a sudden became a liquid soup.  I kept cooking and after an hour it reduced to the thickness I wanted, but the rice broke almost completely down.  What I want to know is what happened to make it go from a thick porridge to soup in a very short amount of time.  Was it adding the egg yolks?  There has got to be some science-y reason behind it.    
    • By Kasia
      COURGETTE MUFFINS WITH LEMON
       
      Since I found the recipe for courgette muffins with lemon on the Polish blog gotujzcukiereczkiem I decided to prepare them. My children looked at the ingredients with surprise. Courgette and cakes don't go together well. The argument that they add caster sugar to the courgette pancakes didn't convince them. The muffins reminded my husband of the lemon cake his grandma used to prepare many years ago. I just liked them. They were short lived, because they disappeared in no time, slightly lemony, moist and not too sweet. They were perfect.

      If I didn't know they had courgette in them, I would never believe it. Try it, because it is worth it.

      Ingredients (for 12 muffins)
      muffins
      200g of flour
      a pinch of salt
      half a teaspoon of baking soda
      half a teaspoon of baking powder
      150g of sugar
      peel from one lemon
      a tablespoon of lemon juice
      2 eggs
      150ml of oil
      a teaspoon of vanilla essence
      a teaspoon of lemon essence
      210g of grated courgette
      icing:
      3 tablespoons of milk
      10 tablespoons of caster sugar
      1 teaspoon of lemon essence

      Heat the oven up to 170C. Put some paper muffin moulds into the "dimples" of a baking pan for muffins.
      Mix together the dry ingredients of the muffins: flour, salt, baking soda and baking powder. Mix together the sugar and lemon peel in a separate bowl. Add the eggs, oil, lemon juice and both essences. Mix them in. Add the dry ingredients and mix them in. Grate the unpeeled courgette, don't squeeze and don't pour away the liquid. Add the courgette to the dough and mix it in. Put the dough into some paper muffin moulds. Bake for 25-30 minutes. Now prepare the icing. Mix the milk with the caster sugar and lemon essence. Decorate the muffins with the lemon icing.

      Enjoy your meal!


    • By pastrygirl
      I had a chance to try a couple of Valrhona's new "inspirations" flavors today, the passion fruit and the almond.  The almond was good but I'd probably add salt.  The passion fruit is intense and delicious, I bet you could cut it with a sweeter white chocolate and still get good flavor.  They also have strawberry.  These are cocoa-butter based so can be used for shell molding.  https://inter.valrhona.com/en/inspiration-valrhona-innovation
       
      I could definitely see using these.  Passion fruit is one of my favorite flavors, and I already indulge in the convenience of Perfect Puree so I don't think this would compromise my integrity   
       
      Just wanted to share.  Available soon, probably expensive
    • By Kasia
      BANOFFE - MY DAUGHTER'S BIRTHDAY CAKE
       
      This year, mischievous nature tried to upset my daughter's birthday plans. Spending your birthday in bed with a thermometer isn't an excellent idea ¬– even for an adult. For a teenager it is a drama comparable to cancelled holidays. My daughter told me that you are thirteen only once. And she was right. Literally and figuratively.

      I wanted to sugar the pill for her on this day and cheer her up for a bit, so I prepared a caramel cake with bananas – banoffee in the form of a small birthday cake. My sweet magic and the dinner from her favourite restaurant worked, and in the end her birthday was quite nice.

      Ingredients (17cm cake tin):
      150g of biscuits
      75g of butter
      200ml of 30% sweet cream
      250g of mascarpone cheese
      2 tablespoons of caster sugar
      2 bananas
      300g of fudge
      1 teaspoon of dark cocoa

      Break the biscuits into very small pieces or blend them. Melt the butter and mix it up with the biscuits until you have dough like wet sand. Put it into a cake tin and form the base. It is worth rolling it flat with a glass. Leave it in the fridge for one hour. Spread the biscuit layer with fudge and arrange the sliced bananas on top. Whisk the chilled sweet cream with the caster sugar. Add the mascarpone cheese and mix it in. Put the mixture onto the bananas and make it even. Sprinkle with the dark cocoa and decorate as you like. Leave it in the fridge for a few hours (best for the whole night).

      Enjoy your meal!

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.

×