Jump to content
  • Welcome to the eG Forums, a service of the eGullet Society for Culinary Arts & Letters. The Society is a 501(c)3 not-for-profit organization dedicated to the advancement of the culinary arts. These advertising-free forums are provided free of charge through donations from Society members. Anyone may read the forums, but to post you must create an account.

HowardLi

Sous vide cheesecake?

Recommended Posts

Has anybody tried to do this?

I assume that the cheesecake should set after refrigeration if all of the egg proteins have coagulated, which according to this site, can happen slowly at 78 C for a custard... so if I put my pan into a big pot with 78 C (or 80 or 82) water such that the level is just under the rim of the pan, in about 3 hours (randomly selected time) I should have a thoroughly-done cake.

Ideas?

EDIT: Crust can be blind-baked, of course.


Edited by HowardLi (log)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I think I'm going to try one this weekend. Should I cover the pan with plastic wrap? Loosely cover it with foil to keep lid condensation at bay? Leave it fully open?

Unless someone says otherwise, I will try 78 C water.


Edited by HowardLi (log)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I would leave it open, but, be aware of the air temperature. In school, we bake in convection ovens, the old-fashioned way, so the temperature is fairly even all-around and the circulating air removes some moisture. If you try this in a regulated water bath uncovered, but the room has the AC blasting, the top may not cook well.

I say leave it open because most formulas have some moisture that needs to be released during cooking. Caveat: there may be modernist formulas that work better sealed that I am not aware of. (I want the book, but cannot at this time afford it...)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

In a normal oven with a water bath, though, there is significant humidity; I always get greeted with a huge blast of water vapor when I open the door to check on my cheesecake.

If the humidity is at 100% (as I suspect it normally is), it would be no different than leaving the pot lid on. And the cheesecake does normally turn out very well - it's just easier to "bake" in a pot than an oven.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I've thought about trying this out as well, but haven't had a chance. Douglas Baldwin does have a sous vide creme brulee video on youtube, so I would expect cheesecake to work as well.

edited for spelling


Edited by avaserfi (log)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I just recently made some sous vide cheesecake and the results are great. I bagged the custard and cooked at 80C for 3 hours then piped into molds. The pictured cheesecake I gave a dusting of sugar and bruleed.

IMG_3078%252520edit.jpg

IMG_3080%252520edit.jpg

I talk about it a little more on the link below, but the end result was a resounding success for me.

http://www.consumedgourmet.com/2011/10/low-temperature-sous-vide-cheesecake.html

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

How do you think the freezing affected the texture? Did you only do it so that you could handle them more easily?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Freezing allowed me to unmold them without damaging the cake. I compared some that was frozen to some that wasn't and couldn't detect a textural difference.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

How would you describe the "set" of the egg matrix? Silky, creamy, or nearing a traditionally baked pasty sort of texture?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

It is definitely silky and creamy, but my cheesecake always is. It has some of the lightness a cheesecake gets from the bake, but not quite as much. It feels a little more rich than I have experienced in the past. I attribute this to the lack of any overcooked parts. Traditional cooking methods result in the outside being over-baked while the inside is just right. So, in my experience, the outer portions are a bit lighter in texture than the inside. Not the case here.

After the project was done, I wished I had made some in the oven to compare more scientifically. Maybe next time.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Nice! I've been thinking that cheesecake & sous vide should be a match made in heaven, just needed a starting point. Thanks! :cool:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Was yours very thick after 3 hours ?

I just did a bag at 176f for about 1:20

it was just about getting thick, I piped them into a silicone cannele molds but

may have started to set/clump and I don't think they will be cleanly set in the molds but will see after I freeze them.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Mine had thickened considerably by the time I removed it from the bath.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ok, the consistency and smoothness looks very good so far whilst its chilling.

I was just hoping that I could get them smoothly shaped like canneles and maybe coat them with choc ganache after freezing them.

It would be a good exercise to know how much time affects how much it thickens after reaching a custard setting temp.

I also have some I did in oven with waterbath to compare.


Edited by lennyk (log)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

the 1:20 at 176f was not long enough, they came out a little sloppy,

gonna try at least 2:00 next time, probably use 3 bags and pull at 2:00, 2:30, 3:00

very smooth though

I might try rebagging some of these and doing over.

I tried painting the interior of a silicone cannele mold with choc ganache but it didn't coat nicely.

DSC_5040.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I froze the cheesecake in the molds to prevent any damage when I unmolded them. The final product is extremely tender and is hard to unmold at refrigerator temperatures.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

the 1:20 at 176f was not long enough, they came out a little sloppy,

gonna try at least 2:00 next time, probably use 3 bags and pull at 2:00, 2:30, 3:00

very smooth though

I might try rebagging some of these and doing over.

I tried painting the interior of a silicone cannele mold with choc ganache but it didn't coat nicely.

The little pocket in the top is begging for something to be put in it. Something fruity, or perhaps a graham cracker streusel as a nod to the tradition.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I did them over for an extra 30mins and firmed up a bit, much better.

Very good texture.

Yes it would look good with something in the centre dripping over.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I realize this is an old thread but there really isnt much information out there for making cheese cakes sous vide. Im wondering if making a thick, dense (no air bubbles) new york style cheese cake could be done in a bag and piped into a springform pan to brown in the oven and then left to set up in the fridge? Or must this be done directly in the springform pan (bagged and submerged)?

Would the filling set up in the bag, or does it only set up after cooling down?

Also, aside from a vacuum chamber, whats the best way to remove any air in the filling before cooking?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'm not sure what a New York one is like (it's a long way from here), but there is this recipe I spotted probably a couple of years ago - sorry, no idea now of the source:

  • Cream cheese 100%
  • Whole eggs 20%
  • Egg yolks 7.5%
  • Corn starch 1.9%

Seal and cook at 80°C for three hours. When cooked, pipe into moulds and freeze. Unmould while still frozen, roll in powdered sugar and brulée (which will begin defrosting while giving a crispy exterior).

This treatment doesn't sound like what you're planning, but the basic recipe may be of some use. It does suggest the answer to your question about piping is 'yes'.

I've never got round to trying this, but it remains on my list. Maybe when the Anova gets here ...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'm going to preface this with the disclaimer that I'm very much a proponent of modern techniques and ingredients in cooking. Now I'm going to follow that by asking, if a New York style cheesecake is the goal, why would you want to go to the trouble of adapting it to sous vide? I'm not asking why as in "just bake it dummy", I'm asking why as in what is the specific goal you have in mind that makes doing it sous vide a better option than the, pretty much never fail, traditional way of doing a New York cheesecake. I've done sous vide cheesecake recipes that were good for their application but not at all like a New York style. I've also done a few versions using various hydrocolloids which made them "no bake" cheesecakes. They weren't anything like a New York style either. Even if you get the density right, the texture isn't the same. I guess what I'm trying to figure out is, do you want a New York style cheesecake or do you just want a more dense cheesecake? Because I haven't seen a result from any "modernist" cheesecake variation that even comes close in quality to the traditional if New York style is the specific goal.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'm going to preface this with the disclaimer that I'm very much a proponent of modern techniques and ingredients in cooking. Now I'm going to follow that by asking, if a New York style cheesecake is the goal, why would you want to go to the trouble of adapting it to sous vide? I'm not asking why as in "just bake it dummy", I'm asking why as in what is the specific goal you have in mind that makes doing it sous vide a better option than the, pretty much never fail, traditional way of doing a New York cheesecake. I've done sous vide cheesecake recipes that were good for their application but not at all like a New York style. I've also done a few versions using various hydrocolloids which made them "no bake" cheesecakes. They weren't anything like a New York style either. Even if you get the density right, the texture isn't the same. I guess what I'm trying to figure out is, do you want a New York style cheesecake or do you just want a more dense cheesecake? Because I haven't seen a result from any "modernist" cheesecake variation that even comes close in quality to the traditional if New York style is the specific goal.

Problems Ive had in the past using my (very old) oven are #1 cracking.#2 rising too high around the edges and sinking in the middle.#3 done on the outside still soft in the middle. Those are the 3 main reasons that have alot to do with my old oven and the fact that its built into the wall and is slightly off level so i have to rotate cake pans every 10 minutes so the batters dont pool into one side. I rent so replacing the oven is not an option unless it completely breaks.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'm not sure what a New York one is like (it's a long way from here), but there is this recipe I spotted probably a couple of years ago - sorry, no idea now of the source:

  • Cream cheese 100%
  • Whole eggs 20%
  • Egg yolks 7.5%
  • Corn starch 1.9%

Seal and cook at 80°C for three hours. When cooked, pipe into moulds and freeze. Unmould while still frozen, roll in powdered sugar and brulée (which will begin defrosting while giving a crispy exterior).

This treatment doesn't sound like what you're planning, but the basic recipe may be of some use. It does suggest the answer to your question about piping is 'yes'.

I've never got round to trying this, but it remains on my list. Maybe when the Anova gets here ...

New york style is a very tall with a bottom crust and a light dusting of crumbs or nuts on the sides, or plain on the sides and gets browned ontop and the sides to have a semi hard thin shell and a rich thick,dense,creamy, tangy inside. Its best i can explain.

I dont care for those soft, light texture cheesecakes that seem to sag in the middle of the slice.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I think im going to try sous vide directly in the springform pan, inside a jumbo size ziplock bag @ 176F for 3 hours, then finish in a 425F oven till the top browns. I think starting with a recipe that makes a NY style will give me the texture im looking for. My wife wants me to make it a pumpkin cheesecake.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

  • Similar Content

    • By fanny_the_fairy
      So I'm not sure whether you remember it or not but a few month ago I posted a new thread here because I was slightly scared with an upcoming internship.
       
      Now I am actually an intern at Pierre Hermé and I thought you'd like to have some update.
       
       
      Thanks for all the amazing feedback you guys provided!!!
       
       
      Love
       
       
      - fanny
       
       
      First week: Ispahan, Emotions, Sensations & baked treats
       
       
      Just one week after I arrived from New Zealand I'm already off to Paris for the long awaited internship at Pierre Hermé.
       
       
      After waking up at 4.30, I head towards the 15° arrondissement shop, enter the apparently empty shop sur la pointe des pieds. Where is everyone? Luckily I quickly stumble onto Sebastien, the morning team head chef, who gives me the locker keys. I can finally go downstairs and get changed.
       
       
      Hmmmmm the pâtissier outfit! While I was over-excited when I bought it because it represented the first step towards my dream, this outfit is anything but dreamy. Think oversized jacket, high-waist pied-de-poule pants and Pierre Hermé baseball cap; the most fashionable item being the shoes – white sabots.
       
       
      Honestly, who could look good wearing that? Well ok, some girls do but I don’t. And just in case I still had some hopes, one of the guys said 'oh mais fanny vous etes beaucoup plus belle comme ca, vraiment' [fanny you look way better with these clothes on] when he saw me leaving the building wearing my normal everyday clothes. He looked shocked, trust me!
       
       
      Once this first step is checked and I've understood how pointless it is to look at myself in the mirror, I can actually go upstairs and meet the chefs. Before that, I have to put an apron – well two actually: a cotton one and a plastic one; but this is only an anticipatory action as I know I tend to get quite dirty (and this is a total euphemism) when I cook.
       
       
      Then I arrive in the laboratoire, wash my hands and shake everyone's hands. At this point, I am completely lost. Who is who? Hmmm names, so many different names. Luckily, I'm quite good with names so after a few minutes I am familiar with everyone just like we've known each others for years. That's totally not true though, and the use of vous is here to remind it.
       
       
      Indeed saying vous instead of tu is like the first basic rule in the pastry shop survival guide.
       
       
      The second one being to say chaud [litteraly: hot] whenever you're carrying something (usually really heavy) and not necessarily hot, as the term suggests, and you don't want anyone to get in the way. Basically, chefs say chaud not to be gross and say 'dégage' although the meanings of both words are really close. Once this rule is mastered, you have to start applying it. And believe me it feels quite weird to yell chaud every other minute. Though, it appears to be quite useful because you don't want to spill 118°C sugar syrup on your boss, do you? Well some of you might - sometimes, but please before doing so you should strongly consider a career change and/or an escape from your country, a face makeover and a name change.
       
       
      By now it's just after 6am and I am awake (holly jetlag). Like not just awake – I am widely concentrated on everyone's moves and there are many many moves. In the morning team, everyone is here to produce all the cakes, entremets, emotions, yeasty treats... with the most dedicated passion.
       
       
      The variety of tasks makes for the most interesting job. While every member of the team is responsible of a specific area, I wander from poste to poste to help the chef do the tasks they can't do because of their super-extra-busy schedules.
       
       
      Thus in one week I got to do many different things: from sorting almonds to prepare candied lemon peels.
       
       
      I started by weighing the ingredients for the crème onctueuse au chocolat. This was straightforward and was the perfect task to give me confidence on the first day.
       
       
      However, I was quite – and happily – surprised when the manager told me to go with Simon to decorate the Ispahan entremets.
       
       
      The Ispahan entremets are definitely one of the it-pastries at Pierre Hermé, so I was really excited to know that I was about to decorate them.
       
       
      This part was overwhelming – first I had to arrange raspberries on the rose-flavoured buttercream, fill with chopped and fragrant litchis, and then decorate the top macaron by piping a drop of glucose on rose petals and then sticking them, along with some raspberries, on the macaron.
       
       
      Assembling the Emotions was also a great job. Emotions are Pierre Hermé's signature desserts presented in glasses and eaten with a spoon - well unless you like to lick your fingers!
       
       
      I had the chance to make both Emotions Mosaic (griotte jelly, pistachio jelly, pistachio mascarpone cream) and Celeste (rhubarb compote, fresh strawberries, passion fruit and mascarpone mousse, passion fruit marshmallows).
       
       

       
       
      These are entertaining to make (basically I piped a fixed quantity of jelly with a piston into glasses - see Sensations below for more details) and are really yummy. I must say I have a weak spot for the passion fruit guimauves, even though it was a really-teeny (don't want to sound like I'm complaining because I am not) pain when I had to separate hundreds of them and roll them in icing sugar.
       
       
      As you might imagine I was happy to get to make so many different things and I was really proud when they actually let me make a whole batch of Sensation Celeste. Sensations are glasses filled with different jellies and generally topped with a macaron.
       
       
      First, I had to make the rhubarb compote: gelatine, rhubarb purée, lemon juice and sugar, pour a fixed quantity of it into small glasses with a piston, and allow to set before doing the same with both strawberry and passion fruit jellies.
       
       
      On the same note, I also piped some banana and strawberry jelly into small round shapes for the entremet Désiré, which is totally delicious by the say.
       
       

       
       
      However, I couldn't do just what I had to and couldn't restrain myself from peeking here and there. Anna, who I didn't really get to work with, is responsible for all the treats that have to go through the oven step. Hence, she makes all the brioches, croissants and other yeasty treats. But she also makes the cannelés and millefeuilles.
       
       
      The cannelés are probably the best ones I've ever had: fresh, soft and fragrant.
       
       

       
       
      As for the millefeuille I picked a Mosaic millefeuille because I love the pistachio-cherry combination. This was a real winner: the slight tanginess of the griottes nicely balances the creaminess of the pistachio cream. I can't wait to work in the dough team because their feuilletage is excellent! Hopefully in two weeks...
       
       

       
       
      Next week: c'est la folie des macarons [it's all about macarons].
       
    • By pastrygirl
      Something I wonder about but have yet to attempt ...
       
      i usually make Swiss or Italian meringue buttercream with egg whites. Occasionally I make egg yolk buttercream if I have excess yolks. 
       
      Is there any reason why one couldn’t make whole egg buttercream?  Whole eggs whip up plenty fluffy for genoise, what if you added hot syrup and cool butter? 🤔
    • By ChrisZ
      Hoping for some help.  I accidentally melted an old mould that is very important to us and I've had no luck searching around for a replacement.  
      If anyone knows where I could buy one - or even has one to spare they would be willing to sell - please send me a message.
      The mould (label attached below) was originally labelled as "Easy as ABC gelatin mould", although we just call it the alphabet mould.  Yes there are lots of alphabet moulds around, including new silicone ones, but we need the specific designs on this one to replace the one I damaged.  Depending on the cost, I would consider paying for postage internationally (to Australia).
      Thanks in advance!

    • By pastrygirl
      If so, what was it like?  Sounds similar to kouign-aman ... https://www.bbc.com/news/uk-scotland-north-east-orkney-shetland-44486529
       
       
    • By highchef
      we're all used to the Wednesday/Sunday food sections of newspapers far and wide, national and local. I see corrections in the local or regional columns when called for, but there's never a way to critique the ones published on a national scale because the content is behind a paywall. I get the WSJ, but don't want to pay additional (I should get access to it all on line for free-the newspaper is not cheap) for their online edition. Very frustrating to try a recipe and have major problems with it and not be able to point out some serious issues. Specifically, the WSJ published a recipe from Dee Retalli, a pastry chef in London who's recipe is in the cookbook 'Rustic' by Jorge Fernandez and Rich Wells. 
      I have made this cake 3 times.
      First time was a total runover disaster, which I should have foreseen. This cakes calls for a 10" springform or if you don't have that, a 10" cast iron skillet. I went for the latter because that is what I had. Almond mixtures tend to really smoke when they run over, just so you know.
      Tried again later with a deeper than normal 9 " springform. Happened again. Think it has to do with the 2 teaspoons of baking powder and quick activation in a 350º oven.
      Invested in a 10" springform for '3rd times a charm' try. I was successful, but not because I followed the directions, rather I became a little obsessed with making this work. Checked my oven, followed with the recipe and eyed it warily. It came up to the brim...and stayed. 45 minutes later it was supposed to be done but while it was beautiful, it was a bowl of jello in the center. It was also browning at an alarming rate- the almond flour again? So I placed a sheet of tinfoil over it (beautiful top crust) and turned the oven down to 325º and carefully watched and tested for almost another hour. That's a big time difference. 
      I found the recipe on cooked.com - credited to the above authors and cookbook albeit in Euro style measures and temps. All seems the same, so what are the odds that the recipe was misprinted twice from 2 different media?
      All I can think of is somewhere down the line (in the cookbook itself?) the cook time and temp were off. The time on both reads 45 min. The recipe took at least 1hr and 45 minutes. methinks someone left out the hour...
      The temp. thing is a little more obvious. Celcius to farenheight 350ºF does not equal 180ºC, more like 176ºC. Over almost 2 hours, I think that could make the difference between cooked and burnt? Sooo, I turned it down when I saw how fast it was browning to 325.
      The cake stays in form while you pour the honey over it, then orange water, then 2(!!!) cups of sliced toasted almonds. I put 1 cup and there is no way another cup would have stayed on that cake. I cup settled up to almost an inch on a 10" cake...
      Has anyone else tried this recipe or have the cookbook? It's a wonderful cake if you correct the time and temp., But I'd be really curious to see if anyone followed it exactly as written with success?
       
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.

×