Eats on the Road – Oregon to Northern California

[Mjx]

At the end of August, we'll be heading out to the West Coast. Part of the trip will include a drive from Corvallis to San Francisco, taking in Crater Lake on the way. We'll be driving back north along the coast. We haven't yet sketched in details any more definitely than that.

We're most interested in places/foods that are unique to the areas we'll be passing through, and high-end is definitely not a must. My boyfriend is Danish, and I grew up mostly outside the US, so regional authenticity is more interesting to us than versions of what could be had in many places in the US or EU (even though great pizza is always great pizza).

So, please tell me: What places, food, and events are just not to be missed?

[JBailey]

There are certainly a mulitude of options along the way. Just having been in Healdsburg over the weekend, if you have time I might suggest making a reservation for the wine pairing meal at J Winery in their Bubbleroom. Seghesio also offers a nice pairing meal. Walking around the square in downtown Healdsburg is fun and there is a terrific candy/ice cream store on one of the corners.

Edited July 27, 2011 by JBailey (log)

[MaryMc]

At the end of August, we'll be heading out to the West Coast. Part of the trip will include a drive from Corvallis to San Francisco, taking in Crater Lake on the way. We'll be driving back north along the coast. We haven't yet sketched in details any more definitely than that.

We're most interested in places/foods that are unique to the areas we'll be passing through, and high-end is definitely not a must. My boyfriend is Danish, and I grew up mostly outside the US, so regional authenticity is more interesting to us than versions of what could be had in many places in the US or EU (even though great pizza is always great pizza).

So, please tell me: What places, food, and events are just not to be missed?

It's not high-end, for sure, and nothing exotic or gourmet--but the Samoa Cookhouse is a slice of northern California history, and a great place for good old-fashioned American comfort food. It's an old lumber mill cookhouse, located not far off Highway 101 near Eureka. They do plain, good food, and a ton of it, served family-style at communal tables in a room filled with historic loggers' tools and relics. Breakfast is standard eggs, sausage, bacon, pancakes, biscuits and gravy, and the like; lunches and dinners, at least from what I remember, included fried chicken, ham, mashed potatoes, salad, veggies, fresh bread, and house-made pie--the kind of food you'd need before you went back out to the mill to saw up a forest into lumber. It's a place I'd happily take foreign visitors, both for the food and the history.

[SylviaLovegren]

Not a good time of year for oysters, but you should be able to get fresh Dungeness crab. If you find a place that serves fresh razor clams, definitely try them. Delicious.

[Mjx]

There are certainly a mulitude of options along the way. Just having been in Healdsburg over the weekend, if you have time I might suggest making a reservation for the wine pairing meal at J Winery in their Bubbleroom. Seghesio also offers a nice pairing meal. Walking around the square in downtown Healdsburg is fun and there is a terrific candy/ice cream store on one of the corners.

Where is Healdsburg? This definitely bears looking into, but I'm not finding the town on the map!

It's not high-end, for sure, and nothing exotic or gourmet--but the Samoa Cookhouse is a slice of northern California history, and a great place for good old-fashioned American comfort food. It's an old lumber mill cookhouse, located not far off Highway 101 near Eureka. They do plain, good food, and a ton of it, served family-style at communal tables in a room filled with historic loggers' tools and relics. Breakfast is standard eggs, sausage, bacon, pancakes, biscuits and gravy, and the like; lunches and dinners, at least from what I remember, included fried chicken, ham, mashed potatoes, salad, veggies, fresh bread, and house-made pie--the kind of food you'd need before you went back out to the mill to saw up a forest into lumber. It's a place I'd happily take foreign visitors, both for the food and the history.

Are reservations needed at this time of year? It sounds casual, but you never know.

Not a good time of year for oysters, but you should be able to get fresh Dungeness crab. If you find a place that serves fresh razor clams, definitely try them. Delicious.

Any place(s) you specially recommend?

[Dejah]

This is a timely thread as we will also be heading out from the Canadian prairies to Pocatello, Idaho and onto San Francisco next week. We're planning to travel northward along Highway 101 from San Francisco thru' to Seattle, then homeward to the prairies thru' Vancouver.

Would appreciate any suggestions - no high-end, but highly unusual and memorable eats - of any kind.

[JBailey]

Healdsburg is in Sonoma County, north of Santa Rosa (Guy Fieri land) along Rt. 101. As you know Sonoma is also another of the big wine locations.

[MaryMc]

Are reservations needed at this time of year? It sounds casual, but you never know.

It's been a few years since I've been to Samoa Cookhouse...they didn't take reservations then, and no indications on the website that they do now. I remember a wait at peak times, but it was worth it (and they do give you stuff to look at while you wait, with all the old photos and logging memorabilia).

[Mjx]

Healdsburg is in Sonoma County, north of Santa Rosa (Guy Fieri land) along Rt. 101. As you know Sonoma is also another of the big wine locations.

Thank you! I was looking on the Oregon map. Definitely looking into this.

Are reservations needed at this time of year? It sounds casual, but you never know.

It's been a few years since I've been to Samoa Cookhouse...they didn't take reservations then, and no indications on the website that they do now. I remember a wait at peak times, but it was worth it (and they do give you stuff to look at while you wait, with all the old photos and logging memorabilia).

Thanks! This one's been added to the googlemap thing we're building up

[azurite]

Two good restaurants in Albany (almost adjacent to Corvallis), Sybaris http://www.sybarisbistro.com/ (on First Street in the old Albany downtown) and Novak's http://www.novakshungarian.com/ The chef/cooks at Sybaris use some local ingredients, like to experiment a little (usually the experiments turn out well) and the plating is almost always very good. Service is usually very good as well.

If you go to Sybaris, the Carousel store/museum is almost across the street, if it's open, it's worth a visit. I like Albany's downtown, it's adjacent to a river & there's a park on either side of the river (downtown). If you visit on a Saturday, you can walk 4-5 blocks from Sybaris to the courthouse & check out the Albany Farmers market http://locallygrown.org/home/

You don't say where on the coast you'll be traveling, if you drove west from Corvallis to the OR coast, you could go to Newport's bay front and eat at Local Ocean, locally caught fish/seafood cooked well http://localocean.net/locations . Not too sure about what's good from Newport south to Brookings. There is a pleasant coffee shop/independent bookstore in Gold Beach, OR. http://www.oregoncoastbooks.com/ Ate here once: http://restaurants.uptake.com/oregon/port_orford/griff_s_on_the_dock_27066300.html the food was ok, I think we went there more for the location--the Port Orford "port" is worth seeing, quite small and the boats are lowered into the water by crane. Grif's is pretty much on the docks. There are a few other places in Port Orford to eat (very small town), and there is a beautiful state park, Port Orford Heads http://www.oregonstateparks.org/park_61.php that's worth a visit. South Oregon coast is very beautiful w/some wonderful state parks (w/beaches), towns are usually economically depressed.

Edited July 31, 2011 by azurite (log)

[StanSherman]

How much time are you allowing for the drive? Are you staying in motels, camping? I've done the route well over 50 times in the past 20 years.

Going south from Crater Lake the most direct route is highway 5, but I always recommend driving south along the coast since the car will be on the side of the road closest to the shoreline.

If you are taking one portion on 5 one of the great spots in Oregon is New Sammy's Cowboy Bistro. It's just North of Ashland, another nice destination.

If you like oysters there are two very different but great choices. Coos Bay, Oregon and Tomales Bay, CA. Tomales Bay is in a wonderful food area and you could/should spend a few days around there.

[Mjx]

Two good restaurants in Albany (almost adjacent to Corvallis), Sybaris http://www.sybarisbistro.com/ (on First Street in the old Albany downtown) and Novak's http://www.novakshungarian.com/ The chef/cooks at Sybaris use some local ingredients, like to experiment a little (usually the experiments turn out well) and the plating is almost always very good. Service is usually very good as well.

If you go to Sybaris, the Carousel store/museum is almost across the street, if it's open, it's worth a visit. I like Albany's downtown, it's adjacent to a river & there's a park on either side of the river (downtown). If you visit on a Saturday, you can walk 4-5 blocks from Sybaris to the courthouse & check out the Albany Farmers market http://locallygrown.org/home/

You don't say where on the coast you'll be traveling, if you drove west from Corvallis to the OR coast, you could go to Newport's bay front and eat at Local Ocean, locally caught fish/seafood cooked well http://localocean.net/locations . Not too sure about what's good from Newport south to Brookings. There is a pleasant coffee shop/independent bookstore in Gold Beach, OR. http://www.oregoncoastbooks.com/ Ate here once: http://restaurants.uptake.com/oregon/port_orford/griff_s_on_the_dock_27066300.html the food was ok, I think we went there more for the location--the Port Orford "port" is worth seeing, quite small and the boats are lowered into the water by crane. Grif's is pretty much on the docks. There are a few other places in Port Orford to eat (very small town), and there is a beautiful state park, Port Orford Heads http://www.oregonstateparks.org/park_61.php that's worth a visit. South Oregon coast is very beautiful w/some wonderful state parks (w/beaches), towns are usually economically depressed.

@ azurite, thank you! More bullets on our map; Albany is definitely a stopping point for us, and the Carousel Museum sounds right up my alley (I need to look at their site; I'm hoping it is small, and really old). We'll be going north along the coast from SF.

We now realize that, while we're on the road, places that don't require reservations are probably a better bet, since we don't know precisely how long this is likely to take, especially if a lot of things catch our attention along the road.

How much time are you allowing for the drive? Are you staying in motels, camping? I've done the route well over 50 times in the past 20 years.

Going south from Crater Lake the most direct route is highway 5, but I always recommend driving south along the coast since the car will be on the side of the road closest to the shoreline.

If you are taking one portion on 5 one of the great spots in Oregon is New Sammy's Cowboy Bistro. It's just North of Ashland, another nice destination.

If you like oysters there are two very different but great choices. Coos Bay, Oregon and Tomales Bay, CA. Tomales Bay is in a wonderful food area and you could/should spend a few days around there.

@StanSherman: Thanks! The oysters are sounding particularly good, and I'll be taking a look at New Sammy's Cowboy Bistro site.

We're planning to take an inland route through the national park on the way down, and go back north along the coast, so this is definitely the sort of thing we'd hope to find on our way back.

We're figuring two days down, two or three days in San Francisco, two days back. Family at both endpoints, so the schedule is a bit pressed. We'll be spending a night or two somewhere along the way (we're looking at places in the park), but won't be camping. We aren't going to have much chance to linger along the way this trip, since people are expecting us on specific days at the endpoints, but this is definitely not the last trip we plan to take to these areas, so even if we can't check out everything we'd like, there will be a next time, if we have anything to say about it.

Do you know whether any places near Crater Lake do a decent breakfast?

[StanSherman]

I don't think New Sammy's has a site but there are lots of articles about it. They did expand a little since they got most of their press. They even have a sign now. They are not open every night so timing can be a problem

One article:

http://articles.sfgate.com/2003-08-24/living/17503025_1_chez-panisse-restaurant-bay-area

Regarding oysters:

The town of Marshall (on Tomales Bay) has a few spots to get oysters. It's about two hours north of San Francisco. Tomales Bay Oyster Company has picnic tables and BBQ grills set up. You by the oysters and shuck, BBQ yourself.

You can also make that a day trip from SF. There are great oyster options in SF also.

The Oregon coast is nice but gets clogged in August with large motor homes usually driven by older folks. The bigger the rig the older they will be.

The California coast going north to the border takes more than a day if you want to enjoy anything. You may just have to pick one of the loops and make the best of it. I'd consider leaving SF early and taking 101 to Cloverdale and then 128 out to the Mendocino coast. This is a really beautiful drive going through a coastal wine zone then through the redwoods along a river. When the river end you end up with a very dramatic coastal drive. It returns back to 101 in Leggett.

Lunch in either Mendocino or Noyo Harbor

Spent the night in the Arcadia area. Either have dinner/Breakfast at Samoa Cookhouse. The next day drive along the coast to crescent City and then go through the redwoods on 199 to Grants Pass and back to Corvallis.

[MaryMc]

I don't think New Sammy's has a site but there are lots of articles about it. They did expand a little since they got most of their press. They even have a sign now. They are not open every night so timing can be a problem

One article:

http://articles.sfgate.com/2003-08-24/living/17503025_1_chez-panisse-restaurant-bay-area

Regarding oysters:

The town of Marshall (on Tomales Bay) has a few spots to get oysters. It's about two hours north of San Francisco. Tomales Bay Oyster Company has picnic tables and BBQ grills set up. You by the oysters and shuck, BBQ yourself.

You can also make that a day trip from SF. There are great oyster options in SF also.

The Oregon coast is nice but gets clogged in August with large motor homes usually driven by older folks. The bigger the rig the older they will be.

The California coast going north to the border takes more than a day if you want to enjoy anything. You may just have to pick one of the loops and make the best of it. I'd consider leaving SF early and taking 101 to Cloverdale and then 128 out to the Mendocino coast. This is a really beautiful drive going through a coastal wine zone then through the redwoods along a river. When the river end you end up with a very dramatic coastal drive. It returns back to 101 in Leggett.

Lunch in either Mendocino or Noyo Harbor

Spent the night in the Arcadia area. Either have dinner/Breakfast at Samoa Cookhouse. The next day drive along the coast to crescent City and then go through the redwoods on 199 to Grants Pass and back to Corvallis.

All good advice here, except...the nice little town in Humboldt county is Arcata. Arcadia is in southern California, east of Pasadena, and if you try to stay there, you will be getting quite a bit off your planned route!

When you're driving up Highway 101, just north of Garberville you will see an exit for the Avenue of the Giants. DO NOT make the mistake of trying to save time and skipping it! This is the old two-lane highway, and it runs parallel to 101 for 31 miles. It's just a short distance away from the freeway...but also worlds away. It runs through stands of old-growth redwoods--some of the most unearthly, stunningly beautiful sights on the planet. The same stretch of 101 freeway is not the same--not even close. You will not be sorry you took the time to drive it.

Have fun--you're doing one of my favorite road trips!

[StanSherman]

..the nice little town in Humboldt county is Arcata. Arcadia is in southern California,

Ooops, and quite different towns at that.

Also near Arcata is a town of Trinidad. It's been a few years but Larrupin Cafe was sure nice then.

http://www.larrupin.com/

[Mjx]

Can't tell you how much I'm appreciating the advice, especially given our kind of squished timeframe, and the apparently countless options! I'm doing a LOT of reading, based on all this information.

. . . .

When you're driving up Highway 101, just north of Garberville you will see an exit for the Avenue of the Giants. DO NOT make the mistake of trying to save time and skipping it! This is the old two-lane highway, and it runs parallel to 101 for 31 miles. It's just a short distance away from the freeway...but also worlds away. It runs through stands of old-growth redwoods--some of the most unearthly, stunningly beautiful sights on the planet. The same stretch of 101 freeway is not the same--not even close. You will not be sorry you took the time to drive it.

Have fun--you're doing one of my favorite road trips!

I'm really looking forward to this trip. Last time we were on the West coast, we saw just a few bits and pieces, teasers, really.

I'm trying to remember at least the name of the town near a costal place that had this incredible ice cream. The name of the ice cream place itself eludes me completely.

..the nice little town in Humboldt county is Arcata. Arcadia is in southern California,

Ooops, and quite different towns at that.

Also near Arcata is a town of Trinidad. It's been a few years but Larrupin Cafe was sure nice then.

http://www.larrupin.com/

HaH! Given the fact that we won't be going south of San Francisco, we won't even have the chance to accidentally end up in southern California, let alone Trinidad

[StanSherman]

HaH! Given the fact that we won't be going south of San Francisco, we won't even have the chance to accidentally end up in southern California, let alone Trinidad

Arcata, Trinidad and Eureka are all next to each other.

Personally, I'd be inclined to stay in Arcata, do a romantic dinner at Larrupin and the next morning have breakfast at the Samoa Cookhouse.

I like the lumberjack feel of breakfast there.

Even in August that part of the coast can get cool enough at night to sit by the fire at Larrupin.

Edited August 3, 2011 by StanSherman (log)

[MaryMc]

HaH! Given the fact that we won't be going south of San Francisco, we won't even have the chance to accidentally end up in southern California, let alone Trinidad

Arcata, Trinidad and Eureka are all next to each other.

Personally, I'd be inclined to stay in Arcata, do a romantic dinner at Larrupin and the next morning have breakfast at the Samoa Cookhouse.

I like the lumberjack feel of breakfast there.

Even in August that part of the coast can get cool enough at night to sit by the fire at Larrupin.

I grew up just across the mountains in Redding, and to borrow from Mark Twain, some of the coldest winters I spent were summers on the Humboldt County coast! When it was 110 in Redding, it could be 55 degrees at Patrick's Point, where we used to go camping. Do pack a sweater (or three!)

It's been a few years, but on one of my last trips through there, we stayed at a lovely little place in Trinidad--the Bishop Pine Lodge.. That would put you nice and close to Larrupin for dinner!

Edited August 3, 2011 by MaryMc (log)

[MaryMc]

I thought of another recommendation... Since you seem to be open to dives with plain good food and lots of "local color," another one of those is Jack's Grill in Redding. I can't honestly say that it (or Redding in general) is worth a detour, but if you're going south from Crater Lake on I-5 you'll be passing through right there. Jack's hasn't changed very much since it opened in 1938. Back then, California Street was lined with rowdy joints that served the workers building Shasta Dam or working for the railroad or the mines or the lumber mills. Allegedly, there was a bordello upstairs over the restaurant back then. It's gone, but Jack's survives, pretty much intact (although with a more civilized, yuppie crowd these days). The menu hasn't gotten any more fancy--it's still steaks, fried prawns, and fried chicken, served with nondescript veggies and an iceberg lettuce salad. But oh, those steaks...might be the best filet I've ever had!

If you do land in Redding for a night, the other place I can highly recommend is the Turtle Bay Museum and the Sundial Bridge. The museum covers local history and natural history--very nicely done (I learned more about the local Indian tribes in one visit there than I did in 13 years in Shasta County schools). But even if you don't have time to get to there while the museum is open, the bridge is well worth a visit by itself. The consensus of my friends who've moved away seems to be "I can't believe Redding ever built something so cool!!" It's a footbridge over the Sacramento River, designed by Santiago Calatrava. It's beautiful in the daytime, but at night, it's lit from inside the glass bridge deck--just spectacular.

Edited August 3, 2011 by MaryMc (log)

[Katie Meadow]

If you do end up going through Ashland I second New Sammy's. It isn't cheap and you are probably in for a rather slow evening, so be prepared. I had a delicious meal there last year. Check yelp for the nights they are open, and note that if it is the middle of Shakespeare season you need a reservation there. Not sure if you will need one otherwise.

And if you happen to be driving through Ashland but it isn't dinner hour, I highly recommend stopping on the main drag at the big ice cream parlor (Zoey's I think) for an espresso shake. Can't be beat on a very hot day.

[azurite]

In addition to Local Ocean in Newport (on the bay front), there is a good restaurant in Depoe Bay (smallest harbor in OR) called Tidal Raves. Nice view of the ocean from some of the tables. Further north is Lincoln City, and there are several pretty good places there: Andaman Thai http://www.andamancuisine.com/ although I haven't been there in over a year. Also: Blackfish Cafe http://www.blackfishcafe.com/ and there is one other restaurant that's supposed to be quite good, The Bay House, http://www.thebayhouse.org/

If you like books, don't miss Robert's Books in Lincoln City. It's a second hand bookstore in what was probably once a house, maybe more than one house, so there are many rooms and many books. A very good selection of used books, including cookbooks, and the books are reasonably priced, http://www.robertsbookshop.com/ One of the people that works there has a phenomenal recall of the bookstore's stock. She has helped me find at least one non-fiction book when I could not remember the title or author, but only what it was about.

The bookstore also has a good collection of book illustrations (for some of the older mysteries, thrillers, etc.) decorating the walls, and some weapons (spears, harpoons) hanging from the ceiling.

I haven't gone further north in so long that I don't feel able to offer any more suggestions. There used to a be a great pie place in Garibaldi, but that was years ago.

[Genkinaonna]

There's still a great pie place in Garibaldi...at least there was as of last summer. Don't remember the name but it's right off the freeway and since Garibaldi is bitty teeny tiny shouldn't be that hard to track down.

[Mjx]

If you do end up going through Ashland I second New Sammy's. It isn't cheap and you are probably in for a rather slow evening, so be prepared. I had a delicious meal there last year. Check yelp for the nights they are open, and note that if it is the middle of Shakespeare season you need a reservation there. Not sure if you will need one otherwise.

And if you happen to be driving through Ashland but it isn't dinner hour, I highly recommend stopping on the main drag at the big ice cream parlor (Zoey's I think) for an espresso shake. Can't be beat on a very hot day.

I wonder whether that's the ice cream place I remember, which I really wanted to revisit... cannot remember the location or name at all.

In addition to Local Ocean in Newport (on the bay front), there is a good restaurant in Depoe Bay (smallest harbor in OR) called Tidal Raves. Nice view of the ocean from some of the tables. Further north is Lincoln City, and there are several pretty good places there: Andaman Thai http://www.andamancuisine.com/ although I haven't been there in over a year. Also: Blackfish Cafe http://www.blackfishcafe.com/ and there is one other restaurant that's supposed to be quite good, The Bay House, http://www.thebayhouse.org/

If you like books, don't miss Robert's Books in Lincoln City. It's a second hand bookstore in what was probably once a house, maybe more than one house, so there are many rooms and many books. A very good selection of used books, including cookbooks, and the books are reasonably priced, http://www.robertsbookshop.com/ One of the people that works there has a phenomenal recall of the bookstore's stock. She has helped me find at least one non-fiction book when I could not remember the title or author, but only what it was about.

The bookstore also has a good collection of book illustrations (for some of the older mysteries, thrillers, etc.) decorating the walls, and some weapons (spears, harpoons) hanging from the ceiling.

I haven't gone further north in so long that I don't feel able to offer any more suggestions. There used to a be a great pie place in Garibaldi, but that was years ago.

I'm starting to think that this may be worth a separate trip, before we head south, and not just for the sea food. Although I don't know about the bookstore... It's not really safe for me to enter a bookstore, at least not if i have my wallet with me.

There's still a great pie place in Garibaldi...at least there was as of last summer. Don't remember the name but it's right off the freeway and since Garibaldi is bitty teeny tiny shouldn't be that hard to track down.

Oh man. Thanks, something definitely worth looking into. I love pie. I just hope we still fit into out clothes by the end of this trip.

[Katie Meadow]

Mjx, Zoey's is probably the one you remember. I don't know of any other big ice cream parlor on the main drag. It's always busy.

One place not worth the hype in Ashland for breakfast: Morning Glory. Waffles were soggy, food uninspired. Popular with theater-goers, it looked like, corny cottage decor. But then, breakfast has to be pretty outstanding for me to be into it.

Last month we drove through and had dinner at Thai Pepper, knowing nothing about it. It was late, we needed to eat, and it was crowded. The outdoor space is downstairs by the creek, very pleasant and out of the wind, if there is any. Food was pretty good, a couple of dishes excellent. Cocktails are generous but tend toward the too-sweet and silly.

[djyee100]

Mjx, as you head south on Highway 1 you might want to stop by the North Coast Brewing Company in Fort Bragg. When I'm in this area, I like to go there for a steak and a beer. It's been a few years since I've eaten there, though when I was a more regular visitor the food quality was consistently good.

Nearby is the town of Mendocino, rather chi-chi but don't let that put you off. There's a popular bakery in the center of town, with a crowd outside in the AM. It's handy for a quick breakfast. Do people remember the TV series, Murder She Wrote? The series was filmed in Mendocino. Yes, this upscale California coastal town was supposed to be down-to-earth, quaint Cabot Cove in Maine.

The last time I was around here, I did a short hike in the Mendocino Botanical Gardens. http://www.gardenbythesea.org/index.cfm/fuseaction/home.showpage/pageID/6/index.htm

The views from the bluffs over the ocean are spectacular. (Assuming it's not a foggy day.) The Gardens are located in Fort Bragg.

Not sure when you want to head inland from the coast, but a great place to do it is Rte 128, through the Navarro River redwoods and the Anderson Valley. One of my favorite drives. Someone upthread mentioned this drive also. The Anderson Valley is wine country, too, with wineries to visit. At the southern part of the Anderson Valley is Healdsburg. The Downtown Bakery and Creamery in Healdsburg is popular.

Mjx, I wonder if the Healdsburg Bakery and Creamery is your mysterious ice cream place. It was co-founded by Lindsey Shere, who was the original pastry chef at Chez Panisse. If their ice cream is like Chez Panisse's, no wonder it was memorable, even years later. Here: http://www.downtownbakery.net/bakery-cafe.html

If you decide to continue south on the coast from Mendocino, there's a cute town called Bodega Bay with a good seafood restaurant on its pier where the sport fishermen come off their boats. Very fresh, no frills seafood when I happened to drop by several years ago. Not worth a detour, but if you're hungry and in the area (as I was) this place served a good dinner.

If you continue on Highway 1 to Pt Reyes Station, you can visit the Cowgirl Creamery, where their cheeses are made. Their store sells other local artisanal cheeses, as well as their own great cheeses. Nearby is Pt Reyes National Seashore.

Farther south is Stinson Beach and the Pelican Inn. I haven't been to the Inn's restaurant myself, but a friend who is a confirmed Anglophile likes their British pub food and the beers on tap.

For something off the beaten path, you can visit Green Gulch Farm in rural west Marin County, which is run by the SF Zen Center. I was there last April for a workshop and weekend stay. The farm's beautiful, with a short walk to Muir Beach. Overnight accommodations are OK, if a little rustic, and the food is good, sometimes great, vegetarian food. The food is grown on this organic farm, of course. The SF Zen Center originated the Tassajara vegetarian cookbooks. This is not a spa or a resort, but a working Zen monastery. The bells sound at 4AM for zazen, and overnight guests are invited to participate. When I was there, I declined the invitation. Or, as I said to a friend, if I have to get up at 4AM for enlightenment, I will be suffering on the karmic wheel for a long time yet. Zazen is also repeated in the late afternoon before dinner. I missed that zazen, too--by then I was hanging out at Muir Beach watching the pelicans.

You can also visit the farm on a daytrip for the Sunday Dharma talk--a beautiful drive out there, tea & muffins with the congregation afterwards, and the farm's kitchen sells loaves of great Tassajara bread to take home.

have fun on your trip!