Australasia, Manchester

[thom]

Surprised no one has flagged this up thus far but it's a significant and interesting opening for the city - both in terms of it's story and it's food - so I thought I should pull my finger out and give it a thread of it's own.

In short, Australasia is the latest venture from Living Ventures. I'm sure most of you know them as the guys who built and sold the Living Room chain (very of it's time) and now own the Gusto and Grill/Blackhouse brands (I like both for casual dining) and also latterly hoovered up most of Paul Heathcote's empire (Grado et al) which are all being rebranded.

Generally their restaurants tend to occupy the upper end of the mid-market niche, with good quality interiors, decent food and excellent service (their training and management tends to be very good). Such places will never blow one's gastronomic socks off, but equally would seldom let you down and are a useful addition to anyone's roster of regular haunts.

Australasia is though a little different. It seems to be a personal labour of love for their Aussie MD Tim Bacon, and it's aspirations are pitched much higher than the rest of the LV stable. It's location sets the scene, with the restaurant occupying a basement site beneath the flagship Armani store in Manchester's prestige Spinningfields business district (think a mini-Docklands with swish glass architecture if less water) which brings an immediate catchment of the pin-stripe denizens of Bank of New York, RBS, Deloittes etc

The concept should fill you with dread - pan-asian/Fusion dining - as should the idea of an "exclusive" restaurant in Manchester - arsey doormen, gangsters, wannabe wags - but thus far it’s confounding all expectations, not least mine. When I heard about what they were planning the name “Ithaca” sprung unbidden to my lips but I guess unlike the owners of that ill-fated venture these guys are professional, seasoned operators and know their markets, and indeed Manchester, inside out.

I think it has officially just opened on the 28th. I’ve been for the launch and also had a full meal as part of the soft-launch. Firstly it’s a beautiful room, like Hakkasan’s non-evil brother, and is the most unbasement-y basement I’ve ever sat in. The design is light in tone and light of touch and has a breezy grown-up feel. I’d say it’s the best room in Manchester. It has a de rigeur open kitche and the booths in particular are nicely done and will become sought after in a Winner-esque fashion, and the mod-cons (winelists on iPads, an amazing transparent almost holographic lit DJ deck in the bar) don’t jar.

Service was reassuringly Mancunian but had a professional, personable sheen (not withstanding soft-launch teething troubles). Drinks in the bar included an ace Hibiscus Royale (the flower, in prosecco, topped with a pineapple foam) but of course what matters is the food itself. In presentation and execution it is certainly a cut above the Mancunian and indeed the Living Ventures norm. The fish in particular was handled with a very assured touch, and if not every element was perfect – this was a soft launch after all – there was much of promise.

The sushi fish was top-notch (though the nigiri rice was maybe a shade heavy – one of few gripes), the signature dish of pot-roast lobster with kaffir lime, chilli and Thai basil was exceptional (as it should be for £45!) and a dessert with an espresso fondant and walnut ice cream was brilliantly done. Really excellent. Sides were fine, though the chips are, I think, bought in (seemed to be same as Grill on the Alley). Piping hot espessos concluded a very enjoyable meal, and the considerable winelist (not yet available) is heavy on Aussie big-hitters.

The price point’s are interesting – generally about £18-£20 for a main course which is significantly higher than the norm in San Carlo, which has a hold over what is surely Australiasia’s intended clientele – and ironically are echoed by Vertigo, the new restaurant which has opened with little fanfare in the old Ithaca space. Undoubtedly the quality of execution and the professionalism of the Living Ventures machine will drag punters through the door, and it will be interesting to see how the city’s dining scene reshapes around the new arrivals.

I just hope, hope, HOPE that they push on from this successful soft-launch period and really nail the level to which they aspire. I’d be heart-broken if, after a strong start, they felt compelled to dumb down in order to give themselves an adequate scale of footfall. Ithaca, for all it’s spectacularly misguided décor and layout brought proper sushi to Manchester, and I was gutted when they quickly lost their way.

Get yourselves over to Australasia (the entrance itself is pretty cool - a willfully understated glass triangle poking through the ground beneath an impressively cantelevered building giving no clue as to what is below) and give it a try. It may not be unique but it has taken Manchester’s dining offering outside it's comfort zone and that has to be a good thing.

Interior shots here: http://www.facebook.com/#!/australasia.manchester

And an excitable preview with food shots from Man Con here: http://www.manchesterconfidential.co.uk/Food-and-Drink/Pan-Asian/Australasia-exclusive-this-food-could-be-the-best-yet

Cheers

Thom

Edited June 2, 2011 by thom (log)

[david goodfellow]

Yep, it looked good when I read about it in manchester confidential. So much so that I phoned straight away to get a soft opening table. One was available, but no soft opening offers were, so I decided not to bust a gut to get over there and just let it bed in a bit.

May just give it a whirl, but London's calling I'm afraid, so it won't be for a while yet.

[thom]

David,

What sort of "soft-launch deals" were you after? I think free food is pretty much as good as it gets!

As far as I know once the friends and family soft-launch trial period was over they consider themselves up and running at full-speed so all pricing is as per normal (though if you have a look on their Facebook page a couple of posters seem to mention offers).

All in all I would say it is definitely worth you dropping in the next time you find yourself in glorious Mancunia. They will just have to survive without you whilst you're on your London jollies but I am sure they will be holding back a reserved booth with your name on it!

Let me know what you think.

Cheers

Thom

[Harters]

The concept should fill you with dread - pan-asian/Fusion dining - as should the idea of an "exclusive" restaurant in Manchester - arsey doormen, gangsters, wannabe wags

Doesnt sound like old gits like me are their target audience then.

Edited June 2, 2011 by Harters (log)

[thom]

Come on man you write like a Cheshire version of Damon Runyon! Don't tell me you haven't got your own intimidating middle name and some gangster blood running through your veins (or indeed down your hands)!

To be clear I think thus far Australasia has side-stepped the listed demographics who gradually did for Mash & Air, Reform etc, though it still needs to find it's audience and Manchester is a competitive market.

As we all know the double-headed monster which is San Carlo/Cicchetti has traditionally sewn up the dining money in Manchester so it will be interesting to see how things pan out. Hope the late bar doesn't tip it too wet-led.

I love a bit of people-watching but in this case I don't mind so much who's on the next table, as long as they leave me in peace to eat my sushi (or the occassional pot-roast lobster, if I'm feeling extravagant).

Cheers

Thom

Edited June 2, 2011 by thom (log)

[david goodfellow]

Thom,

Thanks for the tip off. Someone is quoting a 33% discount on the Facebook page. I phoned to ask and was told the manager will phone me back.

As you may be aware I pay my own way, and with hotel, travelling expenses,etc,etc, it costs me a bomb on incidentals never mind the cost of the meal, so any freebie bits help.

By following quite a few of the London bloggers I have gleened knowledge that soft openings usually qualify for up to 50% discount, that is the norm. However you have to be in the know somewhat.

Waiting for that call now.

[Harters]

Don't tell me you haven't got your own intimidating middle name

There are those who call me John "Fat Bastard" Hartley. But I think they're just being kind to an old man.

[thom]

David, good stuff, with their prices that could easily save you £60 on a three courser for two so if you get the discount you can owe me a beer!

To be honest the only soft launches I ever do are on a friend/family basis so tend to be free (which is the way most places seem to work up here). I do know you often find menu's ratchet 10% or so after a first month for a new venue to get in the groove but that's about it.

That said everyone seems to be doing deals at the moment (Hi-Life, Man Con, restaurants with their own mailers and club cards) regardless of whether they are launching or long-established so it's always worth asking. One of the (very) few benefits of the recession...

Cheers

Thom

[thom]

Should have included their own website too. The slightly unwieldy menu's are on there and they also have a decent gallery of interior, exterior and food shots too:

http://www.australasia.uk.com/menus/MAINMENU-02.

Cheers

Thom

[liuzhou]

That link to the menu doesn't seem to work. Try this one.

http://www.australasia.uk.com/menus/MAINMENU-02.pdf

[Nayan Gowda]

There appears to be a 33% discount offered if you sign up to the newletter; but you need to take them up on it within a week of doing so (and it is not valid at weekends...)

[Infrasonic]

Popped in last night just for drinks. Had a wander round the resto as well. Liked it.

Quite a few people from other bars in checking it out...

[Harters]

I see Jay Rayner "does for it" in today's Observer.