Dining in Porto, the Minho and on the Douro

[eternal]

The wife and I are heading to Portugal for 11 days later this month and wondering if there is any advice out there for the north. I saw a bit of information on Lisbon and Bruni's article on Porto but otherwise, there doesn't seem to be a ton of info. I've had a lot of luck in Spain just wandering in to countryside restaurants. Should I expect the same in Portugal? The other advice I've heard is that all the "fancy" restaurants are mediocre and the best food is in the smaller, mom and pop shops.

I think we might spend a few days in the Minho, perhaps taking advantage of the Habitco de Tourism family run lodges/houses as well as in the Douro, though we might upscale it a bit more there. Any info on that would also be appreciated as well as if anybody knows a good spot in the country to rent bokes and ride from winery to winery. My current feeling is that this isn't possible really, but thought I'd ask. on trips like this, I need to find ways to burn calories so I don't just feel fat all the time from all the eating and drinking.

Thanks

[nuno61]

Porto

Pedro Lemos

DOP

The Yetman

Minho

Ferrugem

Douro

DOC

Casa da Calçada

Castas e Pratos

Enjoy

[eternal]

Thanks!

[eternal]

In the Douro now. We are staying at Qunita do Vallado, where Bruni stayed. It is a great place. I highly recommend it. So far, we have eaten at Pedro Lemos, Casa e Pratas and DOC. They are all a mixed bag. Pedro Lemos is the weakest one. We had the tasting menu and it made me realize I'm done and tired with tasting menus. Everything was great and a pretty good value but it's nothing special and the atmosphere blows. It is very formal and quiet - like Alinea, except without the awesome food. If you want to go there, you will have a good time but don't expect to be amazed and try to sit upstairs. Downstairs is booooring.

We didn't eat much at Castas e Pratas but it was pretty good and the space is very cool. It isn't very busy here this time of year so no need for a reservation. We had some fish and saucey rice along with a wonderful cold tomato soup with capers and anchovies. That was def the best part.

This afternoon we stopped at DOC even though we had dinner reservations. Rui Pauli, the chef was there working the tables (only about 30 ppl dining) and he is a character. Very nice guy, we told him we were coming back for dinner and I already knew he knew my name and he said he'd prepare two meals. One typical and one his take. We'd have the typical one first for lunch and his take for dinner (though he would be in porto for dinner). The amouse bouche was a pea soup shooter and a spoonful of ham and something crunchy. It was delicious. The app was a tres a montes smoked sausage of pork and chicken wrapped in puff pastry and set a top mushrooms. It was a wonderful smoky dish. i savored every bite. We had a crispy bacalhau next. The best I've had on this trip so far (and we've had a lot) and we finished with a 1 month old roasted kid/baby goat that was amazing. It all was great and we left full and happy, 100 euros lighter which i find to be an amazing deal.

For dinner we got "his take", but it wasn't as great as dinner. Everything was executed well but nothing was as interesting. Like more classic french dishes of fish (this case, seabass) and meat (steak topped with foie gras) along with an excellent starter of sardines on olive toast. the price was the same and the iwne was great but we weren't as excited by this meal. It wasn't anything you couldn't get in new york or similar.

My point is that when in Portugal, stick with the local dishes or at least takes on the local dishes. While you might get a great price on a french or american dish, there's really no point. I'd rather eat a big plate of bacalhau roasted with potatoes in a bunch of olive oil with a cheap red wine or rice soaked in blood then eat a french classic here.

Off to mealahada in a couple days to eat the suckling pig. Can't wait. Nothing special. Just pig and wine. THen lisboa. Will post pictures later.