Fine dining in Verona

[Roger le goéland]

I will be in Verona this weekend for the opera festival and am looking for options for lunch, dinner, breakfast and lunch.

What good quality dining (1*+) is there available in Verona? Any recommendations for a quick lunch towards 1-2pm within walking distance (1-2km) of the Arena? Any food, any style, any budget. Any wine recommendations to match the local cuisine? Should I just go to Milan for lunch on Sunday?

If you know an interesting place to have breakfast on a Sunday, please do let me know...

[Sneakeater]

It's been years since I've been, but I just loved the Bottega del Vino (not right by the arena, but not very far away). It's been there for decades, so the only thing that gives me pause in making this possibly outdated recommendation is that they made a failed attempt to open a branch in New York several years ago -- which may or may not be indicative of a drop in quality at the original.

The standard high-end place in Verona was always the 12 Apostoli. This is one of those old-school Michelin-starred Italian restaurants that had great ambiance and service but served rarified but soulless versions of local dishes that appealed to French Michelin inspectors but not to, say, me. I'm sure there are some more modern high-end places in Verona now, but really, when I'm in Italy, I don't even think in terms of Michelin.

Verona is right in the middle of a splendid wine district. For heavy dishes, Amarone is a great (albeit expensive) pairing. For lighter dishes, Valpolicella Classico is an excellent excellent quaffer. There are several good producers, but to me, Quintarelli is the best -- and some of their wines aren't even that expensive. As for whites, they're making some good Soave again. Gini is a name to remember.

Edited August 20, 2010 by Sneakeater (log)

[Nayan Gowda]

Bottega del Vino was very good when I went in November last year. Hearty local food, and a phenomenal wine list (the staff provided excellent recommendations matched to the dishes and budget we had).

If you have a car, then I'd recommend the Enoteca della Valpolicella in the heart of the wine region for lunch on Sunday. Really lovely food and great local wines.

[Nayan Gowda]

Just as an additional afterthought, if you do have a car then Baba Jaga in Soave came very highly recommended by a number of people; though I did not get the chance to try it on my last visit.

[Roger le goéland]

As Bottega was apparently closed ("forever") we visited Tre Risotti, which was ok, and Al Pompiere, which was expensive and decent but less good value than TR, with an interesting but bit too young wine list.

Thank you for all your recommendations! I particularly enjoyed Amarone, enough to purchase a few bottles. I didn't, however, enjoy Gini much; perhaps because the Soave style reminds me of my university days when it was on sale at Sainsbury's and therefore the alcohol of choice for most of my neighbours.

Now for Joia in Milan, hopefully, and then back to the food desert of Switzerland...

Photos coming up.