Jump to content
  • Welcome to the eG Forums, a service of the eGullet Society for Culinary Arts & Letters. The Society is a 501(c)3 not-for-profit organization dedicated to the advancement of the culinary arts. These advertising-free forums are provided free of charge through donations from Society members. Anyone may read the forums, but to post you must create a free account.

Recommended Posts

Planning to visit the area next month and will be based in Santa Margherita Ligure. We will travel for good food and would greatly appreciate any heads up for places to sample good quality local food and wine. I'm always wary when dining out in areas with such a high tourist concentration so if there are any gems to look out for I'd love to hear about them.

Link to post
Share on other sites

We stayed right there just a few weeks ago. Did stay, but not eat in Santa Margharita, but the following restaurants in the area were pretty good (and 2) and 3) just 10 minutes away or 15, 1) is maybe 40 minutes):

1) In the mountains behind Chiavari is Ne, which has two very well known traditional restaurants, La Brinca being the more famous one. Since they do not have open for lunch we went to Antica Trattoria dei Mosto in the hamlet of Conscenti. Very simple interior and all the classical dishes of Liguria, lots of filled vegetables, interesting pasta shapes and sauces, braised meats, etc etc. At the end of our meal we saw some buddies of the owner come in for a few bites, to chat a bit and one of them brought a crate with the first porcinis of the season. This is how this place works, they cook what is available. For 35 Euros they serve you a variety of courses and lots of food. Don't expect anuything too refined or super light, but the taste is right. And the wine list is incredible. Everything that is good in Italy (and some top notch french wines), often older vintages and prices that make you cry...... you cannot get these wines for that price at retail in the US and most of Europe. They carry both the classics (B. Mascarello, Montevertine, etc etc) but also all the new funky ones (Gravner, Cornelissne etc). Bring friends so you can finally drink that Magnum of Pergole Torte for something like 130 Euro.

2) In Chiavari itself we liked Trattoria Il Portico. We had some fresh Bottarga, seafood salad, trofie pesto, spaghetti with seafood and as main just a plate of wonderful sauteed red min octopus. This is a great place to get really fresh unadulterated seafood. For me this was exactly the kind of food I want to eat in that region. They serve mostly wine from the Bisson winery down the street. They match perfectly with the food and cost barely over 10 Euro a bottle.

3) On the other side of the peninsula, in Camogli, we had a wonderful lunch at Rosa. http://www.rosaristorante.it/

Usually one better avoids restaurants with a view, but here you can sit on a terrace steep over the Riviera and still eat well. Very good Pesto (supposedly mortar made if you call ahead) and again simply prepared seafood. The fritto misto was the best I had in a very long time, incredibly light and crisp, something I would love them to teach our seafood shacks in New England.

If you are looking for a guide, we very much enjoyed the Terroir Guide for Liguria. You will find more addresses for eating and food shopping than you can visit. Wherever we tried, we liked what was recommended. http://www.littlebookroom.com/foodwineriviera.html

Link to post
Share on other sites

We haven't been to dei Mosto in a few years and am happy to see that it is still the same old great place. We've been to La Brinca several times and actually prefer dei Mosto, certainly in terms of food. The wine lists are comparable. The ambiance at La Brinca is better if that has any meaning to you. Both are really excellent trattorie. BTW, La Brinca does open for lunch on Sunday. Wonderful Ne' local color at Sunday lunch.

If you're going to go to Chiavari, a must go place is Luchin. Great farinata and many other Genovese specialties, in an osteria setting (i.e. basic, basic) under the arches.

Well prepared osteria food.

A really fun place, particularly at night, but also a wonderful place for lunch.

Link to post
Share on other sites

This is something I posted about Ne' here in 2005.

"La Brinca in Ne'. Ne' is just slightly south of Chiavari, not that far off the autostrada, albeit a little difficult to find (up a winding dirt and gravel road in the middle of the vineyards). Sergio Circella has basically taken his family's trattoria and enhanced the typical 'rustic' dishes (from the Ligurian hills) which are served, with a wonderful wine list and a cantina where you can buy anything from the list. Sergio is passionate about wine (with no snobbism of any kind) and loves to talk about food as well. A fun guy to be with. As Antonio Santini said: "this is a wine list which would rate a 17 or 18 in Gambero Rosso if they rated wine lists of trattorie." A trattoria which, except for the wine list, was commonplace in Liguria 25 years ago, but sadly is dying out. Cucina povera at its best.

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 4 weeks later...

I just spent two beautiful weeks visiting friends in Sestri Levante and made a simple list of foods to taste in Liguria.

We had a very good meal at La Brinca. Outstanding wine list and very good value for sure (It means something when your Italian friend from Naples is feeling too full to eat the last two courses)

I am also convinced that the best foccacia formagetta in all of Liguria comes from the panificio in Cavi (http://bit.ly/adM34R)

Here is the link to "10 foods to eat and drink in Cinque Terre - Liguria, Italy": http://bit.ly/c34f9t

Edited by Mirdad (log)

About me: Jonas Frei - Artisan Cuisinier / PolyScience, ETI, Kisag, SLB distributor for Switzerland. 

I started: www.cuuks.com and the Sous Vide °Celsius App

Twitter: @ArtCuisinier

Link to post
Share on other sites

We enjoyed a nice few days in Santa Margherita Ligure. Unfortunately the food wasn't up to much and many of the recommended restaurants were closed or full.

Of those we tried, Rosa in Camogli was about the best. Trofie with pesto follwed by whole grilled sole were very simple and all the better for it. The view at dusk was spectacular.

Thanks to those who made recommedations.

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 4 years later...

I'm going to be around Chiavari next week, and was looking for some restaurant recommendations in the area.  So far, my list includes Osteria Luchin, La Brinca, Osteria dei Mosto and Trattoria il Portico.  (All from past eGullet suggestions)


We would also love any information about the area that is useful (good markets, streets to explore, etc.)


Thanks for any recommendations!

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • Similar Content

    • By AlaMoi
      okay, it's spelled many ways.  that's not the point here....
      I'm working on the perfect sauce/cooking liquid/+other things combo for a delectable dish.  
      I don't have problems with the meat - I can get good shanks, browned nicely, they come out tender and tasty.
      it's the in-pot accompaniments that disappoint.  I done multiple versions of 'trinity,' tried tomato based/adds, tried various seasonings.  I've served it with rice, pasta, barley, faro as the 'side reinforcement.'
      there was a little resto in North Henderson / Patrick Lane(?) that did "my ideal" knock-em-dead version, I've never been able to duplicate the taste.
      anyone have a super-version?  am I missing some magic spicing classic to the real Italian deal?
    • By Melania
      It's one o'clock on a warm summer's day in Florence, I'm on my way to get ingredients for lunch. The sun is high in the sky, the cobblestones are warm under my feet and the aroma of something delicious is in the air. My mind starts to drift to the onions, celery and tomatoes I need for my pasta sauce, oh and don't forget something sweet for dessert...this truly is la dolce vita.
      My thoughts are soon interrupted by an unwelcome "chiuso" sign on the door of my new favorite deli. The blinds are closed and the friendly owners are nowhere in sight. The reality of having my favorite pasta dish for lunch was slipping further and further away.
      What a nightmare! How can this be?
        A local passing by must have noticed my frustration.   "Signorina, è riposo. Tutto è chiuso!"
        Of course! How could I forget about the sacred Italian siesta?
        A siesta or riposo, as most Italians call it, is a time of rest. This time is usually around midday, or the hottest part of the day (very inconvenient if you're craving a bowl of pasta.) No one can really say where the tradition of the siesta originates, but many say it's all about food (no surprises there really).
        For many Italian families the main meal of the day is lunch. This heavy meal in the middle of the day is attributed to the standard Mediterranean diet: A minuscule breakfast of a coffee and pastry , a heavy lunch and an evening meal around 10 o'clock. The logic is that after such a heavy meal one would surely be drowsy and need to rest, no one can work efficiently on a full stomach!
        Post offices, car rentals, supermarkets and even coffee shops (in some smaller towns police stations too) all close their doors for a riposo. Everything comes to a standstill as every Italian goes home to kick of their shoes, enjoy a homemade lunch with family and bask in the Italian sunshine for three to four hours. This is serious business. One would not dare work for 8 hours straight. After their riposo most businesses open again around 4 o'clock and stay open till 7pm. Its the perfect balance between work and play and does wonders for your digestive system!
        "Grazie!" I thanked her for the reminder. The midday sun started to become unbearable. The streets had cleared with only a few tourists braving the midday heat still around. I thought about the strawberries I bought from the market earlier that week. Strawberries for lunch on my shaded balcony and maybe a nap afterwards sounded like my perfect riposo. The pasta will have to wait till 4.
    • By haresfur
      I found this article about arancino/arancina really interesting

    • By jennyandthejets
      I'll be in Naples for a few days next month and I wanted to try something traditional, and my friend recommended trying parmigiana. She said she loved it, but the problem is that she ate it at her Italian friend's house, and I won't be able to have that exact parmigiana. So, I did some research online and found a few restaurants that have good ratings and are serving allegedly great eggplant casserole. This place is 4 stars rated, but people seem not to agree whether the parmigiana is good or not.... On the other hand, this place has a great rating, appears when searching for the parmigiana, but nobody seems to write about it in their reviews. Finally, this one is said to have the best parmigiana in Naples (or in the world, for that matter), and I wanted to know if anyone had the so-called world's best?
      I would really appreciate if you could help me make the decision. Looking forward to your advice!

    • By alacarte
      I recently took a trip to Northern Italy, and was delighted to find that the cappuccino everywhere was just wonderful, without exception. Smooth, flavorful, aromatic perfect crema, strong but not too strong.
      Aside from the obvious answer (duh, Italians created cappuccino ), what makes Italian capp so fantastic, and how do I duplicate the effect here?
      I'm wondering if it's the water, the way the coffee is ground or stored, the machines used....I'm baffled.
      Also noticed that the serving size tended to be smaller than what I'm used to -- i.e. a small teacupful vs. a brimming mug or Starbucks supersize. Not sure why that is either.
      Grazie mille for any insight on this!
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.

  • Create New...