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Kitchen Island


ChefCrash

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This is our kitchen.

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From the other side. There is only one area of the counter that we like to use the cutting board on, roll dough on or do any kind of work. Yes, it's 21 inches between the stove and the sink.

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Otherwise there is the kitchen table. It served us well while the kids were growing. But now it's just too big for the two of us. Shoved in the corner, makes it easier to access the bottom cabinets and still be able use it for morning coffee. In that position however, it is hard to reach for the pans hanging from the ceiling.

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We want a counter height island that can be used as a breakfast table.

This is the space. 8.5'x4.5', the fourth side defined by the stove and hallway.

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This is what we came up with. The top is 27"x40" with a radius on one end. It's supported on one end by a 15" wide by 25" deep base cabinet and a leg on the other. It will sit as close to window as possible without interfering with the blinds (4").

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The back of the cabinet which has a drawer and a door will be covered with a matching veneered panel. The space underneath will be more than enough for two stools (not necessarily those :laugh: ) to be completely stowed away (most of the time).

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Since our floor was installed after the kitchen cabinets (i.e. around them), the bottom of the island cabinet had to be cut (3/8") so the top would be at the same level of the existing counter tops.

Originally the top was going to be made of butcher block material. But since we are changing the counter tops to granite, we decided to use the same for the island. That presented a challenge since it would be difficult to mechanically attach the granite to the cabinet and the wooden leg. The solution was, mechanically attach a 1" by 10" by 36" wooden board to the cabinet and leg, onto which the granite would be glued.

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In this photo, a tongue was formed on the end of the board which fits into an existing groove in the cabinet wall. A groove was made on the bottom of the board which nestles in a notch made in the other cabinet wall.

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The board is flush with base top. A large 1/2"x5" bolt will be countersunk into the board and into the 3"x3" tapered leg.

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For the leg I laminated 4 pieces of poplar which I think I'm gonna have a hard time tapering on my table saw. In that case I may buy a 4' poplar newel post, cut and paint.

Edited by ChefCrash (log)
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This topic is one which I will follow with great interest. And I wish you well and with luck there will be more useful comments than my confused contribution.

We have a slightly similar situation...the end of a galley kitchen which is now too small for our expanded cooking and baking life and has nowhere to go.

At one end, under the window, which is not big enough for a table and chairs even, we have a buckshee affair which is going to be replaced soon...I hope.

What I want is a small, not too deep, cabinet backed by a small bookcase. The cabinet door will open and the floor of it and the one shelf (or two) will be only 'one frying pan deep', so to speak, that is not deep enough to put two pans in like regular kitchen cupboards. Two pans means that something is always behind something. And the whole thing will not be as high as a counter-top.

The bookcase will be open, 2 or 3 shelves...I don't know.

The entire affair will be on wheels with a lock so that it can turn around and be moved easily.

The top will be whatever my DH decides it should be with a large rectangular piece (17"x35")of basically white marble dropped in.

We are still discussing the size of the top and I am saying cut me a square/rectangle of cardboard/ thin plywood/ whatever so that I can see how it 'feels'. I can't do area in my head...I have to see it and walk around it and see how it fits into my sense of space.

Did not mean to hijack your post. Just started writing as usual...

Darienne

 

learn, learn, learn...

 

We live in hope. 

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  • 2 weeks later...

For the leg I laminated 4 pieces of poplar which I think I'm gonna have a hard time tapering on my table saw. In that case I may buy a 4' poplar newel post, cut and paint.

Before you try to get a nice taper with a table saw, check out tablelegs.com(the Matthew Burak website) Good prices on a zillion different styles in many different woods; turned legs, tapered legs, notched legs, etc. They'll even mortise 'em for you, should you so desire. (ETA link)

Edited by HungryC (log)
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For the leg I laminated 4 pieces of poplar which I think I'm gonna have a hard time tapering on my table saw. In that case I may buy a 4' poplar newel post, cut and paint.

Before you try to get a nice taper with a table saw, check out tablelegs.com(the Matthew Burak website) Good prices on a zillion different styles in many different woods; turned legs, tapered legs, notched legs, etc. They'll even mortise 'em for you, should you so desire. (ETA link)

I will wholeheartedly echo and reinforce HungryC'c tip about the legs. Burak is the man.

Ray

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Thanks fellars for the recommendation but I'm done with that part. Nice to know such a place exists.

It cost me $40 to have my laminated leg tapered by a local wood worker. He used a band saw to make the cuts and ran it on his edger to rid it of saw marks. It turned out fine.

Island-leg.jpg

I bored a hole to accept a 1/2x6" screw.

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Here painted and the cabinet back covered.

Island-back.jpg

Knobs installed and ready for granite.

Island-front.jpg

Edited by ChefCrash (log)
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This morning, the back splash and counter tops removed.

Backsplash-and-counter-tops.jpg

Applied one coat Marron Cohiba

The blinds' perfect reflection in the island shows how perfectly level it is despite the floor dipping in two directions.

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Still have to remove the Formica behind the stove and install the glass mosaic back splash.

Marron-Cohiba-2.jpg

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Island cost:

15" base cabinet $131

Panel to cover back and toe kick $34

Wood board used across the top $10

1x3 poplar for the leg $15

Labor to taper leg $40

Granite $595 but one can use butcher block material for much less

Total $895

Off to look for 2 kitchen stools.

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I like the island. What's the plan for a backsplash, and what happened with the floor vent?

Peter Gamble aka "Peter the eater"

I just made a cornish game hen with chestnut stuffing. . .

Would you believe a pigeon stuffed with spam? . . .

Would you believe a rat filled with cough drops?

Moe Sizlack

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  • 2 weeks later...

I like the island. What's the plan for a backsplash, and what happened with the floor vent?

Spiffy! Can't wait to see the backsplash. Very impressive.

Thank you.

The plan was to divert the vent through the toe kick but wanted to wait and see if we wanted to keep the island in this position. We have the option to turn it 90* and place it against the adjoining wall.

IMG_3719.jpg

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This didn't start as a DIY project. I had hired a father son team to do this as well as a half bath that needed a new cabinet, top, door and sound proofing. Soon after we ordered materials the father suffered a massive heart attack. He still lays in hospital. I had no problem tackling the job myself, having done a lot of work on six duplexes (12 units) I own like the one I live in, but I've never had to do tile work.

The son of the above mentioned team, a great guy and just as anal as me, came through. I'm so glad he did. Even though the tiles come on sheets, It takes many hands and eyes to make sure all stay in place.

We had to lose this. A very useful addition to the cabinets I made 12 years ago.

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The back touches the wall. I'll be making another and a second one to go where the toaster was.

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The next day I removed the tile on both ends of the counter tops.

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  • 4 weeks later...
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