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The role of black pepper in "seasoning"


faronem

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At a recent dinner, I had some questions about how to properly season.

I mostly focused my answer around salt and gave a demonstration with salted vs. non-salted tonic water I saw in cooking school.

However, one friend then asked about the role of black pepper, that is the final step of any savory recipe she's seen: "salt and pepper to taste".

I talked about black pepper's spiciness, pungency, and sharpness but never felt like I was able to really answer her question.

Since then, I've been thinking more about the role of black pepper as a flavor enhancer (as opposed to as an ingredient).

Although I find I have an intuitive sense of how to use it, I find I'm still lacking the words.

How would you describe the role of black pepper, including how it changes one's sense of taste and flavor?

Can anyone recommend a simplistic demonstration?

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I think black pepper also enhances the smell and that makes it more appealing. White pepper (the inner seed) just doesn't have that same aromatic 'pull' for me, though it has great flavor. When restaurants take that big pepper grinder and grind it right in front of you, I think they are also enhancing the air around your food and you get that fresh ground woodsy smell to enjoy. Then the cracked pepper (and aroma) sits on top of your food and continues to provide aromatic assistance.

Outside of the aroma, once the spice is added into the food it adds 'hotness'. I think one of the problems for we in the west is that we traditionally thought of four basic tastes: sweet, sour, bitter, and salty. Then the Japanese added savory (i.e., umami) and countries within China's area of influence also have a fifth basic taste: piquance or hotness.

I think your question is a good one, but I also think we just aren't culturally used to discussing 'hot' as a taste.

Of course, I could be very wrong about this. I'm humble enough to just love pepper in ignorance.

k.

I like to say things and eat stuff.

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another uneducated opinion, but I think pepper brings a certain "sharpness" to the flavor...think about strawberries with balsamic and black pepper, vs. a pepper crusted tuna steak. Different flavor profiles, but in both cases the pepper brings something deep out of the flavor.

"Only dull people are brilliant at breakfast" - Oscar Wilde

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another uneducated opinion, but I think pepper brings a certain "sharpness" to the flavor...think about strawberries with balsamic and black pepper, vs. a pepper crusted tuna steak. Different flavor profiles, but in both cases the pepper brings something deep out of the flavor.

Never tried strawberries with pepper, but popcorn without pepper is now unthinkable.

In the last few years it seems that many more foods/dishes feature pepper than I can remember from before. Pepper in potato chips...very nice. Orange-Szechwan Pepper ice cream from DL's The Perfect Scoop...exquisite. My new absolute favorite: oranges and pepper. :wub:

Darienne

 

learn, learn, learn...

 

We live in hope. 

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I can't remember where I got this idea (a cooking teacher?) but when I tried this experiment on myself, it answered my questions about black pepper.

Put a black peppercorn in your mouth and chew on it. What does it really taste like? That's the flavor you're adding to the food. To me, black pepper not only tastes hot, but also sweet, fruity, and umami. (BeeZee, I think the umami explains why black pepper deepens flavors.) Keep water and a paper napkin handy! At some point you will want to spit out that peppercorn and rinse your mouth!

Try the experiment with a white peppercorn, too. For me, the difference between the two peppers was striking.

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That is interesting you say fruity because I also pick that up. Actually peppercorns are dried pepper fruit, so it makes sense.

Btw, I also love putting cracked pepper on cantaloupe and watermelon. I did it once, and now I never eat melons without fresh pepper.

I like to say things and eat stuff.

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While it's properties as a spice cannot be ignored, I think a large part of the puzzle can be ascribed to historical accident. Pepper went from something prized & highly sought after to something relatively inexpensive in a relatively short amount of time. As a result, it became the default spice to add a bit of downscale luxury to a dish for the middle class. This, I think is why the western palate has grown accustomed to pepper as a default flavor in food.

Personally, I think that while pepper is great and I use it a lot, there are a number of other flavor pairings from around the world that I also frequently draw upon for the same role that pepper plays.

Salt & Szechuan Peppercorn, Tabasco, Cayenne, Gremolata, Fish Sauce & Japanese Furikake are all things I've used to give a similar boost.

PS: I am a guy.

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