El Bulli 2010

[victornet]

As far as the 'american' name goes, what you say makes sense, I'm just giving the titles from the English menu they gave me at the end, and some of the names are idiosyncratically translated from Catalan.

We also started with a bunch of cocktails. Perhaps because I'm a wine oriented guy (rarely drink anything over 15% alcohol and I'm happier near 13%), these were not my favorite part of the meal, though some were plenty terrific. It just felt like too much alcohol at that point. When I ate at El Bulli in 2007 I believe we had only one cocktail (cosmopolitan-mallow) and it was a killer start to the meal.

Anyway, the first cocktail was the one I really did not like, dry martini. You sprayed it onto your tongue and the overwhelming taste resembled grain alcohol.

The other drinks were sugar cane mojito - caiprinha:

after the strawberry came snow-fizz:

then gin fizz:

This was followed by the Gorgonzola Globe, which kicked the meal into a much higher orbit for me.

[victornet]

In the interest of painting a complete picture, I'll note that I also left out the coconut sponge (photo was totally out of focus) and the cherry umeboshi:

[KennethT]

Thanks so much for posting these! It really brings back memories - I didn't take any pictures, but now I kind of wish I did... luckily for me, many of our dishes were the same, and your pictures look great!

[victornet]

Here come the photos of the final savory courses and the sweets section. By this time we had finished a wonderful bottle of 1989 La Rioja Alta 890 Gran Riserva and were well into what started as a glass of Bodegas Farina Gran Colegiata Campus 2001 but soon became the whole bottle. Which is a partial excuse for the more shaky quality of some of these photos. Of course we also had no natural light coming in through the window by this point.

One of the dishes that was presented as a bit of a challenge in terms of identifying what exactly we were tasting was roses/artichokes:

This was folowed by sea anemone with te:

Then came the delicious eel sandwich:

This was followed by the complex abelone with iberian ham fat:

Then came one of my favorites, a take on a spring roll called suckling pig tail (sorry for the photo quality):

The next dish was something of a repeat from my 2007 meal, "hare juise with apple jelly-cru with black currant marinated", which was simply called "hare juise" last time. Anyway, the meaty flavor of the jelly was as rich and satisfying as a steak at Peter Lugers.

We began to depart the weight of the savory section with a return to the frozen theme of the snacks in parmesan frozen-air with museli:

This was followed by pond and puff pastry of pineapple:

We knew the end was approaching with the passion fruit marshmallow, the stupendous chocolate handkerchief, and so-called shellfish:

We then moved back outside to the porch and leisurely enjoyed the morphings:

As full as I was, I managed to taste each of these incredible morsels. We drove back to Roses floating in air, and enjoyed our cigars on the patio of the hotel, trying to extend the experience forever.

Edited July 19, 2010 by victornet (log)

[KennethT]

hey Victornet, thanks so much for posting these photos - it was the best meal of my life, and certainly the most memorable, but now, with your photos, it's even easier to remember a lot of the details.

Do you mind if I post a couple of the photos on another forum, specifically the Cooking Issues forum? We've been having a discussion about the clear 'potato paper' that held the thai salad and pine-nut shabu shabu... Thanks!

[victornet]

Be my guest and post them anywhere.

[victornet]

The funny thing about the pine nut shabu-shabu is that there was another component not in the photo that we were told to finish the dish with - sort of a pine leaf (I know leaf is not exactly right) - and it was by far the best part of the dish. The progression of little envelopes was a little precious and did not have the flavor payoff of the dish's closing note.

[KennethT]

I agree with you completely - we thought the contents of the envelopes were very subtle... BUT - I think the concept of using them as a delivery device for things is genius...

[AlexForbes]

First of all, let me just say a HUGE thank you to Victornet, I know how much work it is to upload photos of long dinners, dish-by-dish!

Victornet, these are so useful, thanks for posting!

As for El Bulli, guess what.... I got a reservation!!! U-huuuuuuu!

So I'm flying from Montreal to eat there in September, w a fellow foodie and now we're trying to figure out where to spend the night.

I did read LesleyC's recommendation:

If you haven't already made arrangements, I would thoroughly recommend staying in Cadaqués rather than Roses. Cadaqués for us last year was a delightful small town, full of character, while Roses looked like the worst of the Costa Brava as seen on various TV programmes. The Hotel Playa Sol, while basic, was very comfortable and has a lovely pool area - make sure you ask for a room with balcony on the beach side. The local taxi knows how to find El Bulli and will be waiting for you at the end of your meal if required. You could drive yourself, but the road is ... interesting. Cadaqués is only 5km or so from where Salvador Dali used to live, and there are a number of other Dali sites to visit around the area if you're so inclined.

BUT..... I'm thinking this is too far from Roses. And, frankly, I'm not going there to hang out and enjoy the scenery, I just want a comfortable enough little hotel as close as possible to El BUlli and rafa's.

Suggestions?

[KennethT]

My wife and I stayed at the Vistabella, technically in Roses, but not in town proper - it's on a bluff overlooking the sea... we had a beautiful view from our room.... and it was about 2 minutes from the road that leads to El Bulli - probably as close as you can get. It was a little more challenging to get to Rafa's, though really not a big deal. And the front desk has maps with everything labeled on it - so they're set up and ready.

[victornet]

I've stayed at the Almadraba Park in Roses twice and its quite nice. It's out of the center of Roses. We went for the superior room this time (an extra 20 or 30 euros) which meant it was overlooking the sea. It was great to hang out on our porch and unwind from the meal over cigars. Excellent breakfast buffet as well.

I think the drive to Cadaques after the meal would be a bit long and that is a very windy road. I'd highly recommend a visit to the Salvador Dali house museum in Port Lligat (the edge of Cadaques) which requires advance reservations as places are limited.

The hotel is fairly private, but you can walk down to this beach in a couple of minutes:

[Paula E]

Amazing images victornet. It's wonderful how sculptural it all is. Kind of like visiting a museum of edible art.

I'm so glad there are such talented people creating such astonishing and intimate works of art.

Wish I could partake...

[AlexForbes]

Victornet and KennethT, thanks a million for the tips! Will post full report here after I return from Roses. Can't wait!

[AlexForbes]

O.K., so.... I can finally say I've had dinner at El Bulli. While I was there, I almost had to pinch myself at times to make sure I wasn't dreaming!

I've come away from the experience changed, in a way. That's how much it impacted me. I tried to transmit what I saw, tasted and felt during the 5-hour long dinner in a video, which I've posted on this link. I really hope it will transport you to that wondrous night, in that wondrous place.

And I also spoke to Ferran at length after dinner, about the huge changes that are in the plans (last service EVER will be on July 31, 2011). I've got a video of that, too, but the chef is speaking in a mix of French and Spanish....

[KennethT]

Alex - can you sum up what he said about the future of El Bulli?

[kathryn]

http://www.elbulli.com/reservas/index.php?lang=en

First of all we would like to thank everybody who has shown an interest in visiting us to enjoy the El Bulli experience during these fifty years as a restaurant. Also to all the professionals who have been part of the team and helped make it happen.

On July 30th 2011 El Bulli will have completed its journey as a restaurant. We will transform into a creativity center, opening in 2014. Its main objective is to be a think-tank for creative cuisine and gastronomy and will be manage by a private foundation.

We regret not being able to fulfill any more reservation requests. Demand has immediately exceeded our scarce availability. This has been the case over the last few years and is certainly the most bitter note. It makes us very sad.

The format and structure will be completely different from the current model and, therefore, we regret to announce reservations are now closed.

We believe that this foundation will be a commitment to the cultural future of creative cuisine and we feel that El Bulli can offer the lines of action to attain great objectives in this field.

Due to the demand received and this being the last year for reservations, we must inform you that this message is our last and request no further applications.

[mathewr]

http://www.elbulli.com/reservas/index.php?lang=en

First of all we would like to thank everybody who has shown an interest in visiting us to enjoy the El Bulli experience during these fifty years as a restaurant. Also to all the professionals who have been part of the team and helped make it happen.

On July 30th 2011 El Bulli will have completed its journey as a restaurant. We will transform into a creativity center, opening in 2014. Its main objective is to be a think-tank for creative cuisine and gastronomy and will be manage by a private foundation.

We regret not being able to fulfill any more reservation requests. Demand has immediately exceeded our scarce availability. This has been the case over the last few years and is certainly the most bitter note. It makes us very sad.

The format and structure will be completely different from the current model and, therefore, we regret to announce reservations are now closed.

We believe that this foundation will be a commitment to the cultural future of creative cuisine and we feel that El Bulli can offer the lines of action to attain great objectives in this field.

Due to the demand received and this being the last year for reservations, we must inform you that this message is our last and request no further applications.

Thats annoying. I just checked their site last weekend and it said check back later for info about making 2011 res.

[Crouton]

"it's better to burn out than to fade away"

[tupac17616]

Writing about el Bulli proved to be quite the challenge for me. Indeed, I took nearly a year to do so. But I still really wanted to share the story. If you want to check out the photos, they're all HERE. Anyway, hope you enjoy the tale...

Describing every morsel of food I ate at el Bulli, like writing a book report on the Bible, would be one hell of an undertaking. Followers of any faith already know much of the plot. The protagonist is worshipped by some, misunderstood by others. The reservation system involves countless requests but only a chosen few are granted. (Those that think they have “a better chance at seeing God” probably do.) Miracles are performed on food and beverage. Don’t pretend you don’t see the similarities.

Actually since lunch at el Bulli lasted more than six hours, I don’t want it to take you that long to read about it. Instead consider the following timeline:

Tuesday October 14, 2008, 5:25 AM: I sent an innocent email to one Luis García, el Bulli gatekeeper, frequent bearer of bad news. I asked (okay, begged) for a reservation for two people, anytime in 2009. In exchange I may or may not have offered my second- and third-born children. The first-born is, of course, the minimum.

Thursday December 11, 2008, 7:42 AM: My brain hit Caps Lock; all my thoughts came punctuated with exclamation marks. I got exactly the booking I wanted — lunch nearly a full year later, two days before my 25th birthday. Within minutes, friends I never knew I had emerged to claim the other seat. First-, second-, and third-born children were offered to me all at once — a value pack, if you will. I saw a pattern emerging. I wondered if it were legal.

Wednesday May 20, 2009, 3:04 PM: To the delight of few and the consternation of many, a graduate degree was conferred on me by a university I attended primarily due to its proximity to a certain restaurant. That meant the academic research grant I had mainlined to fund my culinary travels was no more. Meanwhile my disenchantment with my would-be profession meant I hadn’t actively looked for a real job. Thus I was barely in a position to dine at el Burger King, much less el Bulli.

Thursday June 18, 2009, 2:10 PM: Still jobless (“building life experiences” as my friend likes to say) but ignorantly unfazed, I thought it the perfect time for a quick food-filled sojourn to New York, the city where I had cut my dining teeth. But after a particularly fine pizza lunch on the day before I was to leave, a cup of gelato introduced me to a particularly fine Sicilian girl, who we’ll call Sirena. I made my vacation a stay-cation. I moved back.

Monday November 9, 2009, 10:00 AM: To the interest of few and the amusement of many, I had pimped my résumé about town to restaurants high and low for months. This was the day someone finally humored me with a paying job, leaving me a one-man NPO no longer. Brashly, I asked permission to take a ten-day vacation to Italy and Spain ten days into my employment. Expected response? Immediate dismissal. Actual response? Enthusiastic high-five.

Saturday November 28, 2009, 1:05 PM: El Bulli’s website warns against using navigation systems to find the restaurant. The all-knowing Google maps can’t even help you. Sirena and I were guided by xuixos — fluffy, flaky little pastries native to Girona but also available, where we had them, in Barcelona. The shrapnel from one was still strewn across my lap as we wound up and down the hills around Roses, the nearest town to el Bulli. Water, land, and air mingled in a warm embrace here. And the restaurant, isolated as it is, isn’t so much guarded by this environment as it is held in its womb. This was all el Bulli — all of it.

Saturday November 28, 2009, 1:28 PM: Camarones. Head-on shrimp were the first of many new foods Sirena would be subjected introduced to that day. After an audience with the king in the kitchen — easily the most intently focused one I’ve ever set foot in — this was the fourth dish of nine that we took on the patio, with a glass of cava and plenty of sunlight. Steamed over green tea, the shrimp were small and sweet, nested among seaweed and sea beans, a bitter and briny counter-weight. Sirena, like a walking, talking guillotine, left me all of the heads. I did not complain.

Saturday November 28, 2009, 2:15 PM: Dramatization. The “Montjoi lentils,” tiny brown buoys in a pool of chicken broth, were like the food in TV commercials — an almost too-perfect version of themselves. Creamy, liquid-filled bursts with all the essential flavor of the legumes but none of the texture that often oscillates between grainy and mushy but rarely in-between. I’d seen this technique of spherification a thousand times before, but never employed so effectively — clearly Adrià had done this once or twice before.

Saturday November 28, 2009: 2:45 PM: AT&T. Sirena held her wine glass out in front of her, just above eye level, considering its contents carefully. A combined look of hope and confusion was on her face, the look of a New Yorker watching their iPhone signal fluctuate. “Pichón?“, she half-whispered, baffled by the disparity between what she heard and what she was seeing. But she had heard right — our Burgundy glasses got an armagnac rinse before the pigeon consommé flew in. An accompanying chocolate leaf came smeared with ganache, powdered with cocoa and orange zest. A revelatory combination, the chocolate bark and the booze seemed to replenish the deeper, darker flavors that had been clarified out of the consommé. These bittersweet bass notes relayed the taste of the internal organs, of November, of game season.

Saturday November 28, 2009: 3:05 PM: CNBC. Looking at the plate, I felt like I was watching the news channel, unable to find the focal point among all the crap scrolling across the top and bottom. Raw cockles. Fresh fennel. Yuzu confit. Green olive. Kimchi. Maple. A potluck at the UN gone horribly, horribly wrong. World War III on a plate — every country was fighting. There was no winner.

Saturday November 28, 2009: 3:21 PM: Vegan nose-to-tail. “Leche de soja con soja” explored the soybean in its many guises: yuba, miso, sprouts, seeds, beans, oil, milk, ice cream, and soy sauce powder. This was an elegant, nuanced dish sandwiched by two that knocked us over the head (those cockles, and a deceptively bitter persimmon salad). Adrià’s symphony is anything but monotonous.

Saturday November 28, 2009: 3:56 PM: Royal flush. Adrià played his strongest hand — wild hare in four services, the most memorable of which was à la royale reworked à la Ferran. Now Sirena is a trooper 99% of the time, but she simply cannot deal with hare brains. (Don’t ask why she still hangs out with me.) And maybe it didn’t help that I had described the animals as “psycho, lawless rabbits” when she asked what they were. Regardless, she politely asked for the brains to be substituted. Expecting a tamer alternative, she got sea cucumber. She was thrilled. My brains, meanwhile came floating in a murky broth. Entrails followed, grilled on a bone skewer, like a cute little hare lollipop. Hare jelly came with sea urchin, but not before the royale, which was somehow even sexier than I’d imagined it would be. The most tender medallions of roasted loin wore chocolate ravioli filled with creamy hare liver and bathed in dark sauce redolent of blood and wine. Just out of control.

Saturday November 28, 2009: 5:07 PM: Thanksgiving tuber. I heard earlier in the year that Ferran Adrià would be playing with white Alba truffles this season, and I was very happy we got to play, too. First they were shaved into a Bordeaux glass, a funky facial to enjoy while we had some parmesan ravioli sprinkled with coffee grounds and accompanied by an exquisite little balsamic caramel. With a surgeon’s precision, a silent waiter used forceps to remove the truffle shavings from our glasses and pile them onto the creamiest sweet potato gnocchi you can imagine. Nearly 4,000 miles from home, we were still able to get our yams for Thanksgiving. Unfortunately now I might not want them any other way.

Saturday November 28, 2009: 5:25 PM: Ice fishing. Just water, brown sugar, green tea powder and mint — a MacGyver dessert if there ever was one. A thin layer of ice was magically suspended over a thick blue glass bowl. We broke through it gingerly at first, ice fishers unsure of what lay beneath. The same motions were made with more gusto once we realized there was nothing. Just this split-second refreshing, almost effervescent chill with every shard of ice we ate.

Saturday November 28, 2009: 5:47 PM: Little Miss Sunshine. Refreshing, sour, cold, crunchy, creamy, sweet, and fresh — that’s what Otoño was. Quite possibly the best dessert I’ve ever had, this citrus miracle seemed to have every taste, temperature, and texture possible. It shined like the sun.

Saturday November 28, 2009: 6:17 PM: Morphings. That’s what they called the monstrous box of chocolates at the end. We attacked it outside on the same patio where we’d started the meal. Seven hours had passed since then. A chill was in the air as we listened to the waves, sipped our coffees, and pounced on the chocolates. There were seventeen different types, each one of them better than the last. If life is like this box of chocolates, life is great.

El Bulli, to me, was not a meal. It was an experience seamlessly reflective of both time and place. After having gone even just this once, the accolades and the acolytes, the fame and the legend all make sense to me now. I get it. Ferran Adrià is an ambassador for Catalonia today. Food is just his metaphor.

[prasantrin]

Writing about el Bulli proved to be quite the challenge for me. Indeed, I took nearly a year to do so. But I still really wanted to share the story. If you want to check out the photos, they're all HERE. Anyway, hope you enjoy the tale...

Nice to see you back, and what a great eating experience to share with us after such a long absence! I've been wondering what happened to you and your eating adventures (no longer part of A Life Worth Eating?), so it's good to know you're still eating well.

[tupac17616]

Writing about el Bulli proved to be quite the challenge for me. Indeed, I took nearly a year to do so. But I still really wanted to share the story. If you want to check out the photos, they're all HERE. Anyway, hope you enjoy the tale...

Nice to see you back, and what a great eating experience to share with us after such a long absence! I've been wondering what happened to you and your eating adventures (no longer part of A Life Worth Eating?), so it's good to know you're still eating well.

Thanks, Rona! Life for me is still definitely worth eating, I'm just not part of that website anymore. That's been the case for over a year now, and I won't bother you with the long, messy blog break-up story. I'll just say I'm incredibly happy to be starting a fresh solo venture (with a beautiful girl to keep me company ). I missed writing. And I've got a whole lot still to talk about.

[victornet]

Thanks so much for the description of the meal. I've been twice, both times early in the season, and it is great to read details of how the menu is radically altered by the day, the week, the month, not to mention the season. While I'm despondent about the new announcement that new requests are not being accepted for 2011 (after I respectfully waited for months for the current season to end) I feel nothing but gratitude for the opportunity to have that experience.

[jpdonga]

I was lucky to go 3 years in a row to El Bulli. It was always an amazing experience. I still had no time to comment the photos but you can see the 2010 visit and also the 2009 and 2008 visits.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/57171919@N07/

Edited December 18, 2010 by jpdonga (log)

[AlexForbes]

This is the end...

Just had dinner at El Bulli (May 19) and felt ecstatic and sad at the same time.

I made a video of my dinner, as a souvenir and an homage:

[cmling]

Thank you.