Cooking Stocks

[eatingmike]

Many cooking publications like Cooks Illustrated have discussions of using canned vs. homemade stocks in cooking. I have been using stock bases like Minor's Beef Base and Knorr's Ultimate chicken base, with good success. Do others use these? Why are they not often discussed in cooking publications? They are so easy to use -- just boil water and add the right quantity -- that they make it a pleasure to prepare soups and stews and pan sauces that call for large quantities of stock. Do others use these bases or are there known downsides? Thanks.

[SobaAddict70]

Bases such as these tend to be way over-salted and contain other impurities (i.e., chemical additives, preservatives) that you may not want in your sauce or soup.

If you use demi-glace (from scratch) or homemade stock, you can control the quality of your ingredients and the level of salting in your final product. And ultimately, its the difference between a superior sauce/soup and an inferior one -- factoring in differences of opinion, of course.

SA

[Liza]

Personally, I take great pleasure in making my own stocks for a few reasons - in the simple act of it; the connection I feel with my cooking ancestors; the knowledge that I am using as much of the animal as possible. And, of course, I can make them to my own taste preferences.

[Jinmyo]

Always and always:

Bones. Bits. Dozens of shrimp shells. Scraps of peppers. Too many carrots. etc etcetcetcetcetc

What to do?

Stocks.

Hm. Lots of stock.

What to do?

Freeze.

Hm. Need some stock.

Go to freezer.

Always some there because there is always:

Bones. Bits. Dozens of shrimp shells. Scraps of peppers. Too many carrots. etc etcetcetcetcetc

Edited November 18, 2002 by Jinmyo (log)

[Dave the Cook]

As is often the case, SA is correct. Using a base (or bouillion cubes), you relinquish control of the most important flavor enhancer in your arsenal. By employing your own stock or canned broths, you can evaluate salt content independently.

Another factor is availability. Cook's Illustrated in particular (and most other foodie publications to a lesser degree) is very sensitive to the ability of the home cook to acquire the ingredients they use. While nearly every grocery store stocks sodium-reduced broths, most do not carry soup bases. In the interest of providing a recipe that will produce consistent results, they opt for the most widely available alternative.

[ChocoChris]

I know that Penzeys sells soup bases. I have not tried them yet.

[snowangel]

Ah, yes, Jinmyo is correct. I love making stock. A good relationship with a butcher can lead one to easily procure all sort of bones perfect for stock making. My butcher now calls me when he has a plethora of them!

At any given time, there are a few bags of "stuff" in my freezer -- chicken parts, beef parts, veggie "stuff" just waiting to be made into flavorful stock, of which I control sodium and flavor.

As well, my freezer always has containers of various kinds of stock -- a couple varieties of chicken stock, beef stock, vegetable stock. I freeze in 1 cup portions, so I can take as many or as few out as I need. I usually have a little leftover when I freeze, so there are some smaller portions frozen, as well. I would never buy boned chicken parts; bone them myself and I have food for stock. Just as I never buy cut up chickens.

When I was working full-time, I would also make stock in the crock pot. Set it to go in the morning, and voila, stock when I returned (I would heat and skim before putting in the crock pot. The crock pot didn't make the quantities I can make in my big stock pot, but, make it often enough, and you'll have plenty.

Not only do you have incredible taste, but stock cooking perfumes the whole house.

[eatingmike]

*Sigh* So many purists...

[Blondie]

I've been in a stock-making frenzy lately. Chicken, beef and lobster in the past few weeks. Some is reduced then frozen into cubes, some frozen in ziplocs in identifiable measures.

I made a remouillage from the bones, etc. when I made pho a few weeks back, but I was winging it. Any tips for next time?

[Dave the Cook]

*Sigh* So many purists...

Well, it's easy to claim purity when no one can actually see into your freezer.

Seriously, in my brief time on eGullet, I have found that, among ingredients, only chocolate will bring out more fundamentalists than stock. But I don't think anybody's trying to be sanctimonious. You asked a good question. We answered it, based on our knowledge, experience and testimonial. Note that you got a unanimous response: homemade is superior to not-homemade. What did you expect? (Please also note that no one criticized you. We're trying to encourage you! )

I'm willing to bet that few eGulleters are sin-free. If you check around other threads, you'll find that many (most? all?) use shortcuts and canned, bottled or otherwise preserved ingredients. An embarrasing number admit to junk food addictions. (And anyone who has cooked professionally and hasn't used Minor's is either fibbing, hasn't paid their dues, or has never emerged from the pastry kitchen.) I use canned stocks--I might be between batches, or running short on supply and want to save it for a dish where it will really make a difference, or as at this time of year, I don't have space for it--my freezer is full of holiday prep work--including turkey stock.

[SobaAddict70]

*Sigh*  So many purists...

Better a purist than (insert your favorite adjective here).

But I hear you. (OT alert: I do love my Mrs. Dash. )

When it comes to stocks, I'm 90% purist. The 10% is when I have to cheat, and that's when the local Cantonese palace comes in. You'd be surprised what miracles you can produce with three quarts of chicken stock from your local Cantonese takeout joint. *They* never use canned stuff....of that I'm sure.

SA

[Dave the Cook]

You'd be surprised what miracles you can produce with three quarts of chicken stock from your local Cantonese takeout joint.  *They* never use canned stuff....of that I'm sure.

...and they probably include the feet and heads.

[Oreganought]

*Sigh*  So many purists...

One is made from the soul,the other is microwaved.

[torakris]

I am not a stock maker.

1. It is almost impossible to find any kind of meat on any kind of bone in Japan.They don't sell whole chickens almost anywhere outside of Christmas time (when every one eats roast chicken).

2.My freezer is probably smaller than your microwave. No place to store bones and/or stock.

3. I use dashi as a base for most things and therefore don't use stock that frequently.

I use (gasp!) Maggi boullion cubes and am pretty happy with them (since I know no different).

However since I am going to the US for a month long visit in 2 weeks, I would like to know if there are any decent concentrates/ cubes out there.

I am not about to take home a bunch of cans in my suitcase and don't have too much money to spend.

Anything you guys like?

[Dave the Cook]

However since I am going to the US for a month long visit in 2 weeks, I would like to know if there are any decent concentrates/ cubes out there.

I am not about to take home a bunch of cans in my suitcase and don't have too much money to spend.

Anything you guys like?

Would you be willing to carry back a pile of bones, then?

In addition to Minor's, a few people have mentioned "Better Than Bouillion." Here's a link to where you can buy it in the States. I haven't tried it.

[torakris]

Would you be willing to carry back a pile of bones, then?

NO!

[torakris]

In addition to Minor's, a few people have mentioned "Better Than Bouillion." Here's a link to where you can buy it in the States. I haven't tried it.

Thanks for the link!!

I am pretty sure ther is one of those stores close to my parent's house in Cleveland.

Although those supermarkets seem to change names every year or so.

[mixmaster b]

I love making stock, but my capacity for using it up is much greater than my capacity for creating it!!

My backups are Swanson's chicken stock from the box, or Better than Boullion.

Better than Boullion has a very recognizable taste that reminds me of childhood chicken noodle. (Some people might hate this, buy I find it very comforting.) It useful to have on hand for the times when you only need a small amount of stock, or when a sauce or soup needs a bit more flavor.

[Jinmyo]

3. I use dashi as a base for most things and therefore don't use stock that frequently.

...

Anything you guys like?

Dashi!

[KarenS]

I enjoy making stock too. Whenever my "bags of scraps" in the freezer get to be too much (and my stock supply too low), I take out my great stock pot (with the fitting strainer). I would also feel very wasteful if I didn't make stock.

You can definitely taste the difference between a soup or risotto that has been made with base and not with stock- a fake, almost chemical taste.

My mom always made stock too (and froze it in ice cube trays and larger containers).

[Nick]

I've recommended Better Than Bullion a couple times here and think it's pretty good for something in a jar. But, for the more naturally inclined, I should mention that it contains, among other things, "sugar, corn syrup solids, hydrolyzed soy protein, dried whey, flavoring, disodium inosinate and guanylate." (Reading from the label.) It does taste good though and is easy to use. One teaspoon per 8 oz. water.

BUT, BUT, I just picked up at the coop, "Imagine Organic Free Range Chicken Broth. Fat free & no MSG." Ingredients - filtered water, organic free range chicken, organic celery, onions and carrots, non-GMO soy protein, organic spices, and sea salt. Comes in aseptic packages of 16 and 32 oz. Haven't tried it yet, but will soon. Here's their website - Soupbroth

In the freezer I've got chicken, duck, and beef stock I've made but I never seem to remember to get it out in time to thaw before cooking. Gotta get my shit together I guess.

[snowangel]

In the freezer I've got chicken, duck, and beef stock I've made but I never seem to remember to get it out in time to thaw before cooking. Gotta get my shit together I guess. 

So I just pull it out of the freezer, run warm water over the bottom of the container, plop it in the stove on low, and in a few minutes you can take a knife or fork and break it up into bits.

[pjs]

Oh my. Fresh chicken stock. No need for enhancers. If it doesn't set up like jelly after refrigeration you're doing something wrong.

I use the backs and necks saved and frozen from previous sautes supplimented by some fresh thighs and legs. Simmer until the fresh pieces totally disintergrate into the broth and add their collagen. That way no one can pass them off as boiled chicken.

PJ

[Nick]

I use the backs and necks saved and frozen from previous sautes supplimented by some fresh thighs and legs. Simmer until the fresh pieces totally disintergrate into the broth and add their collagen. That way no one can pass them off as boiled chicken.

PJ

There was a post on a different thread awhile ago that suggested browning the, in this case, thighs and legs before adding to the stock. Tried this? Sounds good.

[Jinmyo]

Nick, yes one can brown first for a darker stock.