Jump to content
  • Welcome to the eG Forums, a service of the eGullet Society for Culinary Arts & Letters. The Society is a 501(c)3 not-for-profit organization dedicated to the advancement of the culinary arts. These advertising-free forums are provided free of charge through donations from Society members. Anyone may read the forums, but to post you must create a free account.

An Asian Eating Adventure


Recommended Posts

Great stuff, Bryan. I'm still stuck on those sparrows. I'm totally on board with the control/enjoyment of small birds, I just can't bring myself to preparing them complete with skeletons and beaks, etc.

Seriously, somebody should design the equivalent of a juicer for small birds.

Peter Gamble aka "Peter the eater"

I just made a cornish game hen with chestnut stuffing. . .

Would you believe a pigeon stuffed with spam? . . .

Would you believe a rat filled with cough drops?

Moe Sizlack

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm curious about how you managed to order, since it sounds like you don't speak either Thai or Vietnamese. Do street vendors know any English? Does everybody recognize you right away as American, or where to they think you're from?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It's only a slight exaggeration to say that I live for your travel blogs, Bryan. Thanks so much for putting this together. You have a great "voice" that comes across so well.

Margo Thompson

Allentown, PA

You're my little potato, you're my little potato,

You're my little potato, they dug you up!

You come from underground!

-Malcolm Dalglish

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm curious about how you managed to order, since it sounds like you don't speak either Thai or Vietnamese.  Do street vendors know any English?  Does everybody recognize you right away as American, or where to they think you're from?

Indeed, we speak neither Thai nor Vietnamese. Japan wasn't a problem because, well, my mother is Japanese, and my sister and I understand enough to just barely get by. In Singapore most people speak English, as it is one of the four official languages.

As for being recognized as a tourist, my mother, kind of, blends in. Whereas people would immediately assume my sister and I spoke English, she would often be addressed in the native language. And as an extension of this Asian vs. Westerner discussion, more than a few people found our mixed race look quite interesting and weren't shy about telling us as much. Generally flattering, but kind of weird, too.

Ordering had its ups and downs, in selecting dishes and inquiring about prices. Much pointing was employed and many fingers were used to numerically sign out prices. The iPhone also made several appearances as a means to display numbers electronically. This would be especially useful in bargaining for the generally useless souvenirs my mother insisted on purchasing.

At least with street vendors it's not as if there's a huge range of items to choose from, and most restaurants had a dusty, old copy of a picture menu, some with translations that they scrounged up for us.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Saigon, Vietnam, cont'd.

As has apparently become a trend, it was street food by day and restaurant by night. We shied away from Saigon's pricier, fine-dining spots as we'd have options for this kind of eating in Singapore and, obviously, Japan. Instead we chose a well regarded, if somewhat off-the-beaten-track restaurant specializing in central Vietnamese food, a regional cuisine I'd not yet experienced.

A cab ride from District 1 into District 3 brought us to Ngu Vien on Ky Dong. Rather than sit in the open-air dining rooms presumably for locals, we were led to the luxurious air conditioned dining room on the upper floor complete with fine stemware and wine rack.

Clearly trying for that elusive Michelin star.


It seems impossible to start a Vietnamese meal without an assortment of rolled items. We chose some classics, but also a couple completely new dishes.

Deep fried hue


A useless transliteration here, well, besides the deep fried part. Hue is the largest city in central Vietnam, so perhaps this like its version of the spring roll. It was good. Something like a crispy shell filled with a pork-shrimp mousse.

Grilled pork rolled in rice noodles


Can't get enough.

Steamed "power" rice with shrimp


Again, something was lost in translation here. We were imagining something like cheung fun that you might get at dim sum. This was more rice paper-y, and filled with semi-dried shrimp. So, not what we were expecting but not that bad. My mother, however, was not a fan; you've just got to adjust your expectations and it was an interesting dish.

Chao tom


Sugarcane shrimp is a dish that should be more popular in the US, I think. I'd seen it on the occasional menu before, but it's got a lot of appeal. A light shrimp loaf is shaped around sugarcane sections, then grilled. With some nuoc cham, the flavor profile is almost teriyaki like, sweet and salty. Take some shrimp, some greenery, wrap in rice paper. I quite enjoyed. One can gnaw on the sugar cane afterward for a bit of a sweet palate cleanser.

Jackfruit salad


Served warm and surprisingly not really sweet at all. Served with these addictive sesame crackers--nearly identical to Japanese senbe--it was quite the scoop and eat experience.

Grilled lemongrass chicken with fried sticky rice cake


Finally a lemongrass dish that had enough lemongrass flavor. There were boneless pieces of thigh and breast, as well as a couple wings. The rice cakes were almost like deep fried mochi, just not quite so glutinous and filling. I quite liked them. The careful observer will also note how they're shaped like hearts.

Steamed rice


But so much more. This dish is called com sen and is a specialty at Ngu Vien. It's rice, steamed in a fresh lotus leaf, with seeds and bits of pork. So subtle, but so nice. Probably the best rice dish of the trip.

Fish braised in clay pot


Cha ko to is another famous Vietnamese dish. Apparently this clay pot cooking style is quite common, though the fish version is where the action is. The braising liquid is effectively water, soy sauce, sugar, Asian aromatics, and fish sauce. As the proportion of fatty fish to braising liquid is quite high the whole things gets very rich and sticky. This is the kind of comforting dish that's all about spooning over rice, though it would be wise to share, as it was this portion was more than the three of us could finish after the preceding dishes.

After this comforting dish we retired to the arguably even more comforting confines of our beds at the Park Hyatt. Seriously soft sheets, fyi. As in Hanoi, day two would bring another street food extravaganza.

Edited by BryanZ (log)
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Saigon, Vietnam, cont'd.

Saigon is home to one of the world's largest Chinatowns. Located in District 5, it's a bit of a hike from the tourist center of District 1 and feels like a completely different city. It lacks the dingy charm of Hanoi's Old Quarter but instead repackages Saigon's big city energy in an even more frenetic package.

Interspersed between the chaos of buzzing motorbikes and waves of delivery boys piloting precariously laden hand carts are little pockets of solitude in the form of Buddhist temples. Located just fifty yards back from the street, these temples give this area of Saigon an air of somber mystery.

Temple courtyard


Burning incense


Immediately after I noted, "Wow, these things are dangerous. They must drop hot ash on everyone," said ash promptly fell on my head and singed my hair. Awesome.

Offering room


Just a cool shot, I think.

As peaceful as these temples were, Chinatown's Binh Tay Market was chaotic. This is a true local's market; in place of cheap tourist goods were sections devoted everyday staples like toiletries and socks. More my speed. The food stalls that ran down one length of the market were also far less touristy. No hawkers, no menus, just a real working class place to grab some good food for cheap.

Banh mi stall


I freaking love banh mi. They're like an obsession for me. High- and low-brow, I enjoy them all. I sampled a wide variety of banh mi on this trip, from super simple offerings with nothing but suspicious looking pate smeared on baguette to fast-food renditions to a few stall offerings like this one. With that said, I guess my American sensibilities prefer the overstuffed, overdressed renditions we have here. Momofuku's recently retired banh mi and the (presumably Cambodian) offerings are Numpang in NYC remain my standard bearers. I also make a fine American-style banh mi if I say so myself.

Banh mi interior shot


Which isn't to say that the banh mi Vietnam weren't enjoyable. And considering my NYC favorites are at least seven times more expensive, these made the perfect snack.

Noodle soup


We scattered in the food stall area so as to try as many things as possible. As a result, I didn't order this. It was quite good though once I got around to trying it. Thicker noodles than one sees in most Vietnamese noodle dishes. The fish cake was also much more subtle than the Japanese versions I grew up eating.

Noodles with spring roll


Can I call this a pasta salad? Two types of room temperature noodles in a light sauce were topped with pieces of chopped spring roll. This cutting before serving when dealing with larger spring rolls (i.e., anything but little cha gio) was quite common.

Steamed rice noodle with pork and crispy shallot


In Vietnam it's quite common to see thin sheets of rice noodle being steamed over squares of cloth tightly drawn over bubbling stockpots. This was different, however. It was as if the rice noodle batter was poured into a hotel pan to a depth of an inch or two. This custardy, gelatinous, super thick noodle-cake was then topped with ground pork and crispy shallots. Scooped, dressed with soy sauce, and served.

Having ambled through Binh Tay and sampled the local cuisine, more local cuisine was in order. Breakfast straight into lunch. What else is new? It's worth nothing we ate at Binh Tay was more than a dollar or two.

Another long taxi ride that spanned a good section of the city's north-to-south axis brought us to the Lunch Lady at 23 Hoang Sa. I first heard about this place on the No Reservations Vietnam episode. A little bit of Googling led me to the aforementioned Gastronomy blog and, as we all know by now, a wealth of information on eating in Hanoi and Saigon. Anyway, the Lunch Lady's story can be read here.

Lunch Lady and her kingdom


I mentioned 23 Hoang Sa as a street address, but really the Lunch Lady--real name: Nguyen Thi Thanh--oversees this little courtyard in a relatively quiet section in Saigon. This seems to be a family affair and is surely run like one. One of the Thanh's apparent associates runs a small sweets area maybe 10 yards away. On this particular day her toddler son was using one of the serving utensils to poke at one of the square's resident dogs. Testing his mother's patience a bit too much, said utensil was then used to effectively discipline the young lad. I can only imagine the utensil then went back to original purpose, handling foodstuffs, without anything so pesky and time consuming as a wash under (the non-existent) running water. Another only-in-Vietnam moment.

The day's offering


A deep, funky broth of pork and seafood. This was seriously complex stuff. Crispy shallots and slices of pork liver only upped the bold flavor quotient. A nice shrimp, some pork, and a quail egg rounded out the meal. This labor of love is doled out at the ridiculous price of about $0.75. So, so, so, so cheap.

After another brief temple stop, this time to watch the rather disturbing practice of feeding live goldfish to turtles as some kind of offering, we decided to eat some crab. Here, there was a bit of confusion, as the restaurant Quan 94 occupies two storefronts, just yards apart, at 94 and 85 Dinh Tien Hoang. Two outposts, consumer deception, who knows? In the end, I figure their wares can't have been that different.

Quan 94, one of the two


Frying station


An old lady fries the crabs to order. The presumably less delicate stir-frying operations were left to her much younger employee.

Crab and vermicelli noodles


Mien xao cua is a simple but quite delicious dish. As one might expect the noodles suck up the crab juices and give the dish a subtle crabby perfume.

Deep-fried soft shell crabs


Served with sweet-sour tamarind dipping sauce, seen in the back. Rather expensive by Vietnamese standards but the quality of crab was good. Crisp outer shell, custardy crab body, not leathery. Nice, but quite rich.

Our next stop was another open-air restaurant first brought to my attention by No Reservations, Banh Xeo 46a at 46a Dinh Cong Trang. Banh xeo are a favorite of mine, the perfect melding of East with just a bit of West. One gets a distant relative of the crepe, but with more egg and more crispiness and Asian fillings.

Banh xeo exterior


If I'm being honest, I'd take banh xeo or dosa over a French crepe on most days. Yeah, I went there.

Banh xeo interior



Cha gio


Really excellent specimen here. Freshly fried, amazingly crisp. Large enough to be just a bit luscious on the inside, giving rise to an even greater contrast between exterior and interior. Wrapping the cha gio in the assorted green also provided made them even better.

Strange gelatin dessert with almond milk


I'm not a big fan of Asian desserts like this in general. Served chilled with dubious shaved ice. The one annoying thing about dining in Vietnam is that diners are seemingly nickled and dimed (literally, we're talking not more than 20 cents per item here and there, but it's the principle that I'm opposed to). Things that are assumed to be free in the US might be 4000-6000 dong here. In this case, this dessert was just passed out to all diners regardless of whether it was ordered or not and with no explanation. The widespread charge for napkins and beer nuts was also a source of endless amusement.

Edited by BryanZ (log)
Link to comment
Share on other sites


Although almost all the dishes have enormous appeal, it's the Cha Gio that has me salivating on my keyboard! Thank you once again for so generously sharing your experiences with us.

Anna Nielsen aka "Anna N"

...I just let people know about something I made for supper that they might enjoy, too. That's all it is. (Nigel Slater)

"Cooking is about doing the best with what you have . . . and succeeding." John Thorne

Our 2012 (Kerry Beal and me) Blog

My 2004 eG Blog

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Saigon, Vietnam, cont'd.

After a full day of eating and an early flight the next morning we supposedly were looking for a light, stress-free dinner convenient to our hotel. We got the stress-free and convenient parts down fine, but the meal wasn't quite so light as we were perhaps imagining. Oh well, here's to excess.

If I'm a sucker for local fast food, then a heavily branded, fast food banh mi shop was but a sure thing. A little appetizer, if you will.

Assembly line


Unfortunately I forget the name of this place. Notice how clean and Subway-like the production area is.

Meatball banh mi


Less meatball, more pate, this was pretty solid.

Mixed cold cut banh mi


A banh mi with a variety of cold cuts. In this case, not as much deli meat as processed, pseudo-charcuterie. This was the yummier, meatier of the two. Each was less than a dollar.

After this little snack we headed to Wrap and Roll for aforementioned convenient meal. Part of me wants to say our meal at this mini-chain was disappointing, a poor facsimile of real Vietnamese street cuisine. The problem is that it wasn't. It was actually quite good. The execution of some of the dishes we had surpassed similar offerings at, say, Quon An Ngon. What Wrap and Roll lacked were the more atypical regional specialties we found at other restaurants or less corporate restaurants. There was hardly anything here we hadn't seen before, but what we had was really tasty. Not sure if that sinks my credibility, but as I've found in other countries with a proud, long-standing food culture even the chains put out some interesting, solid grub. Unfortunately the same can't quite be said in the US.

Wrapped pho


This very good version of pho cuon had some really delicious braised beef going on. The anise flavor of the braising liquid really came through.

Minced beef wrapped in leaves


I want to say these were grape leaves or else the flavor was very similar. They weren't pandan leaves, as that flavor is more distinct, less, well, grape leafy.

Shrimp cake, wrapped in crispy rice cake (I think)


I'm honestly at a loss as the specifics of this dish. I was kind of apathetic about the meal going in so didn't pay as much attention as usual in the ordering process. It was good, though.

Grilled chicken wrapped in pandan leaf


The leaves and grilling process gave the chicken a faint herby, bitter note that was quite pleasant. I tried eating the leaves as an experiment, and, while edible, they weren't exactly tasty on their own. A bit too dried out.

Again, I really liked this place. If they opened up a branch in the US I'd frequent it all the time. Not the most authentic, but I can't fault the place on outright tastiness. Super clean, too.

This progressive supper would naturally need one more stop, so we crossed the street to check out Xu for dessert. We had briefly entertained the notion of having one "nice" dinner in Saigon. We decided not to, but I was intrigued by the chic decor and some good press the restaurant had gotten on some blogs and in guidebooks. Upon examining the menu, a durian tiramisu sealed the deal. Clearly such a gross sounding treat needed to be sampled.

Pandan panna cotta


Eh, not bad. The flavor seemed rather matcha-like, which makes me think more green tea than pandan was used in the coloring. The fruit salad was nice.

Durian tiramisu


All of your worst nightmares are coming true. This dish went way overboard on the durian extract, such that it was at once chemically, smelly, and lacking that custardy sweetness of fresh durian. It was strangely bitter in bites. The texture was also very strange. A couple other menu items suggested that the kitchen dabbles in the modern pantry, so I would imagine so kind of weird texturizing gum is at play here to not-very-good result. Glad I ordered it; definitely don't want to order it again.

I think these dishes were about $6 each. After tax and service, each was more expensive than what our banh mi and dinner had each cost us.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Bryan, it's my understanding that a Vietnamese baguette using rice flour yields the unique crumb characteristics you noted.

"I'll put anything in my mouth twice." -- Ulterior Epicure
Link to comment
Share on other sites


Another early morning flight necessitated another airport meal. Saigon's airport offered up some solid sustenance, though at prices a good deal higher than those in the city itself.

Pork chop over rice and crispy noodles with stir-fried vegetables



Nice entrants into the Airport Food Showdown.

Going from Vietnam to Singapore was like stepping into an entirely new world. One hears of how efficient and clean Singapore is. Really, it's true. I also loved how cosmopolitan the city felt. Of course, there's money and development everywhere, but just seeing so many different types of people and hearing so many different languages was refreshing. Singapore lacks some of the urban character and long-standing culture that I like in a big city, but it has a lot else going for it.

Singapore has perhaps the largest, and certainly most densely packed, collection of Asian Shopping Malls that each include all sorts of retail, food, convention, and hotel spaces. We stayed in the Raffles City complex at the Fairmont. A nice, if rather corporate, property located between the marina and the famous Orchard Rd.

Singapore skyline


From our room.

With Singaporean Asian Shopping Malls also come the quintessential Singaporean Shopping Mall Food Court. This have become so entrenched in consumer society that some of these food courts are actually branded. The most famous of these is Food Republic, which now oversees three food courts in the city.

Food Republic stalls and dining area


We chose the original location in the Wisma Atria Shopping Centre. The whole operation was really quite impressive. In playing to Singapore's hawker center traditions each stall maintains its own identity. This was in contrast to Thailand's mall food courts in which each vendor was somewhat anonymous.

Assorted dim sum


I was skeptical of my mother's choice here, but these were really quite good. Well-crafted and tasty.

Char kway teow


Along with hokkien mee, this is a famous Singaporean stir-fried noodle dish from a supposedly famous vendor. The leaf is supposed to impart some kind of woodsy flavor. Can't say I picked up too much of that but the wok hay was nice and noticeable.

Minced pork noodle soup


Another noodle soup but this time with a distinctive Singaporean slant. The addition of a healthy hit of vinegar to the broth was new to me but quite pleasing. We would have a truly excellent version of this dish the next day, however.

Grilled chicken wings


Extremely simple but so good. Grilled over charcoal right in front of the customer. There's this sticky soy sauce that gave the crispy wings a healthy sheen. Citrus gave the whole thing an acidic kick.

Dark carrot cake


I'm not sure if carrot is the accurate translation for this quintessential Singaporean dish. It's more like the turnip cake one gets at dim sum, just stir-fried in dark, sweet soy sauce. Soft, savory, a bit bitter, kind of sweet. I liked this, but it was a lot going on.

After departing the rather upscale Wisma Atria we trekked along Orchard to the Far East Plaza. My motivation in visiting this mall was twofold. First, I'm fascinated by aging landmarks of consumerism. In the 80s this mall was supposedly something of a hotspot. Today it's a strange relic, at once dim yet garish with neon signage. What I found quite refreshing was how its small storefronts are now populated by young, local designers selling clothes that I actually found somewhat cool. It was refreshing to see a mall with neither the cadre of Burberry and Balenciaga nor a sea of cheap knockoffs.

Our main purpose in visiting the Far East Plaza, however, was to sample Hainanese chicken rice from the quite famous Hainan Delicacy located on the fifth floor. The shop isn't particularly impressive in decor but puts out a fine rendition of this deceptively simple dish. I'd had Hainanese chicken rice before, but Singapore is clearly the holy land.

Chicken rice


The chicken is first poached in a court bouillon of sorts, then this (double?) stock is used for cooking the rice. The broth is also served on the side, but I'm not sure if one is supposed to drink it or use it to sauce the chicken and rice. We did both. Cucumber, soy sauce, cilantro, scallion, ginger, and chile are all typical accompaniments in various combinations and permutations. The dish is subtle and delicate and really freaking good. More than the sum of its parts, for sure.

Singapore is more expensive than the rest of SE Asia but not on Japan-like levels. Our lunch--a lot of food for three people--came in at mabye $10 per person. The chicken rice was a good deal cheaper, given the less charming surroundings, at perhaps $3 or $4 for the chicken and $1 for a tasty calamansi soda.

Edited by BryanZ (log)
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Singapore, cont'd.

Singapore is a place where one doesn't feel completely out of place putting on some decent clothes and going out for a drink and a nice meal. Located just across the street from the Fairmont is the Raffles Hotel, a famous, sprawling property that just oozes colonial charm. It's all a bit Disneyland, I suppose, but we came here for a cocktail at the current iteration of the Long Bar, the birthplace of the Singapore Sling. I was well aware that the Long Bar in its current guise is a replica of the original. Still, the cocktail geek in me wanted to dry this historic cocktail as close as possible to its original home, touristy environs be damned.

Singapore Sling and other signature cocktails


Despite being pre-mixed this was actually pretty good, as far as drinks of this style go. The Raffles Revelry, however, was much, much too sweet, despite my mother's enjoyment of it. I opted for the somewhat more balanced Millionaire Cocktail, though this was somewhat marred by overdilution. Drinks here were very expensive, on par with NYC hotel bar prices at an average of $17 per drink, but the stop was a nice, civilized way to begin the evening.

In our quest to try as many distinctively Singaporean dishes as possible, a stop for chile crab was surely in order. Palm Beach Seafood receives generally positive reviews and offered a convenient location right on the marina. Dining al fresco was a bit warm, but sitting just off the water looking out to the boats and Singapore's skyline was something of a step up from dining on plastic stools in Vietnam.

Pork buns


Slices of boneless pork are cooked in a sticky, sweet soy-based sauce, almost like hoisin but without the fruitier notes. These are then placed in steamed, folded buns. How very Momofuku.



Ehhh, for some reason I just couldn't get into this dish. It was just a little weird for me. There's jellyfish, preserved egg, various types of fruit, sprouts, and crushed nuts, all bound together in this thick peanut-coconut dressing. I don't think this was a poor version, just not my kind of dish. One of the very few on the trip I actively didn't like.

Asparagus and mushrooms


A more traditional vegetable dish was also needed, so we opted for this Chinese-like preparation. Really, impeccably prepared in execution and seasoning. A surprise hit.

The main event


This picture really doesn't do this crab justice. The bowl was huge, the crab was huge, the amount of chile sauce was huge. Literally, there must've been a half gallon of chile sauce to eat, dip, drink, and bathe in. A faint heat worked very well with the sweetness of the crab. I really, really liked this. The claws alone must've weighed over a half-pound each.

Unfortunately we didn't have time to sample black pepper crab in Singapore. I wanted to make it out the lesser developed eastern section of the city, but, alas, our time was short. I can't weigh in on the chile vs. black pepper debate, but will say that the original dish has much to recommend it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Does the Long Bar Singapore Sling even use the actual ingredients like Benedictine? I think I had read somewhere that it isn't.

Have you been to Fatty Crab in New York? How different is their chili crab sauce from the Singaporean version?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Does the Long Bar Singapore Sling even use the actual ingredients like Benedictine? I think I had read somewhere that it isn't.

The recipe card I got at the bar itself says that they do. With that said, I believe the drink is batched, so I really have no idea what's actually in it.

Singapore Sling

30 ml Gin

15 ml Heering cherry liqueur

120 ml Pineapple juice

15 ml Lime juice

7.5 ml Cointreau

7.5 ml Dom Benedictine

10 ml Grenadine

Dash Angostura

Pineapple and cherry garnish

And just for fun, an even more absurd recipe.

Raffles Revelry

20 ml Cognac

15 ml Cointreau

15 ml Banana liqueur

5 ml Galliano

30 ml Orange juice

10 mL Lime concentrate

1 Lime wedge, squeezed

1 Lemon slice

1 Strawberry, muddled

Top up with ginger ale

Orange, strawberry, mint garnish


Have you been to Fatty Crab in New York? How different is their chili crab sauce from the Singaporean version?

I have been to Fatty Crab but haven't had their signature dish. I have seen it, however. The Palm Beach version looked much saucier. It was also not quite so chopped up.

I forgot to mention that this meal approached US prices. I think we spent between $30-$40 per person with minimal drinking.

Edited by BryanZ (log)
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Long Bar actually uses a mixer for their Singapore Sling. You can buy it in any number of stores, and you just add pineapple juice. Singapore Airlines offers it for sale on many of their international flights (and they also offer the drink as part of their beverage service). I've been told you can get the bartender to mix you one up fresh if he's not busy and if he feels like it, but I've not tried it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites


Excellent eating! I'm bummed that I've been away and missed out on this, but I'm catching up now. The Thai eating hit a lot of the highlights, and your shots of the sai eua in Chiang Mai has me nostalgic for the North again.

But it's Vietnam that's taken my interest, Hanoi in particular. This might almost be enough to get me back there again. I'm glad you got to cha ca. Were you eating upstairs, and does the floor still creak underfoot? You may have mapped out a trip for me here. :)

If nothing else, I have to visit the graveyard of sparrows!



Link to comment
Share on other sites

But it's Vietnam that's taken my interest, Hanoi in particular.  This might almost be enough to get me back there again.  I'm glad you got to cha ca.  Were you eating upstairs, and does the floor still creak underfoot?   You may have mapped out a trip for me here.  :)

If nothing else, I have to visit the graveyard of sparrows!

So I actually made a conscious decision not to visit Cha Ca La Vong--the place known for the creak boards, I believe--for a couple of reasons. First, Gastronomy steered me to Thang Long. Second, I had read a great deal about La Vong and thought the cook-in-front-of-the-guest thing sounded a bit touristy, like Americanized teppanyaki. Little did I know that this practice was both commonplace and totally sensible. Finally, this other location was more convenient to where I happened to be.

Apologies for the lack of updates over the past couple of days. I've been in Chicago to eat and presumably find a place to live. Things will resume shortly.

Edited by BryanZ (log)
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I can comment on a few of these dishes since I am familiar with them from my trips to Vietnam (now a fading memory...).

The "grape leaf beef rolls" is called Bo La Lot - Bo for beef and La Lot which are often called "pepper leaves." I can actually get these ingredients fresh here in Vancouver. (I can also buy frozen prepped Bo La Lot that you can just toss on the BBQ).

The "Steamed "power" rice with shrimp" is a classic Hue-style preparation that uses tapioca starch called Banh Bot Loc La. It is usually wrapped in Banana Leaf then steamed till the tapioca paste turns gelatinous. The orange hue (pun intended) is from a type of preserved shrimp paste.

The "Deep fried hue" is some sort of chef's variant of some these Hue "tapas" or "dim sum" (for the lack of a better word). Same with that "Shrimp cake, wrapped in crispy rice cake." You will see many such improvisations from the basic forms.

The "thin sheets of rice noodle being steamed over squares of cloth tightly drawn over bubbling stockpots" is called Bahn Cuon - typically a breakfast dish common in the North. Most Vietnamese restaurants in my city use Chinese rice rolls (cheong fun) - but I have found a number now that make it fresh to order.

That beautiful specimen of Cha Gio that is crispy yet devoid of any blistering or bubbles on the skin is something I have not yet found here. I believe they achieve that surface texture by drying the skin for a bit before frying it....just a guess. Most of the decent Cha Gio here is crispy but blistered (and many places cheat by using Egg Roll wrappers).

Anyways, I love the report and pictures...especially of Vietnam and Thailand. It brings back memories. I love both Thai and Vietnamese food...we have a dearth of Thai food here, but we have good Vietnamese food a-plenty.

Thanks again.


de gustibus non est disputandum

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Noodle soup


We scattered in the food stall area so as to try as many things as possible.  As a result, I didn't order this.  It was quite good though once I got around to trying it.  Thicker noodles than one sees in most Vietnamese noodle dishes.  The fish cake was also much more subtle than the Japanese versions I grew up eating.

Thank you for mentioning that. I noticed the very same thing about the Vietnamese fish cake that shows up in the Hu Tieu that I order at the local Pho shop. While it looks a lot like the tenpura kamaboko that I grew up with (I also have a Japanese mother), the flavor is definitely milder, not as sweet, and has a less rubbery texture.


Link to comment
Share on other sites

fmed, thanks so much for all that wisdom. I have absolutely no reason to doubt anything you've added and only wish I had taken notes so that I could provide as much detailed information. Figuring out what to order and making my sister take all the pictures was more than enough for me. I know your posts have helped me out with food in Vancouver in the past, but this added Vietnam information only sweetens the deal.

MomOfLittleFoodies, indeed that rubbery texture of Japanese fish cake is something of an acquired taste. Then again, it took me a while to enjoy the somewhat squeaky texture of Vietnamese meatballs one finds in pho and Chinese fish balls filled with ground meat.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm not seeing a lot of offal. Are they not common or did you just not order them?

I've always found it odd that all the Vietnamese and Thai restaurants I've been to in the US have hardly any offal other than the occasional tripe at a pho place. Compare with Chinese restaurants which typically have a dozen dishes.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

So, like you said, there was a good deal of offal in the various pho I tried in Vietnam. Banh mi, too. Also, pork liver make frequent appearances in noodle soups. I'm not sure there's the same romanticization of offal that we have amongst the foodie set in the States. Here, I'll be honest, I seek out dishes with offal in them. Abroad, when I only have a vague idea of what I'm eating in the first place, it's not like I'm rushing to try that dish that completely unidentfiable. If a dish was given to me or was known for having so-and-so offal dish I'd gladly eat it. It just wasn't something that I was necessarily looking for nor was it foisted upon me.

Edited by BryanZ (log)
Link to comment
Share on other sites


  • Create New...