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Kaiseki


Kent Wang

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I just read this Wall Street Journal article, The Art You Can Eat, which focuses on the kaiseki restaurants in the Kyoto-area, especially one called Kikunoi.

Kyoko Murata, Mr. Murata's wife and Kikunoi's maitre d', says celebrated guests are a fairly regular occurrence there. "Ferran Adrià comes here often and we also eat at El Bulli. They're definitely influenced by kaiseki food," she says. I rattle off the names of a few other Michelin three-star chefs, American and French. "Of course they've eaten here," she replies.

Kikunoi has been serving kaiseki meals since it opened in 1911. Mr. Adrià, whose avant-garde "molecular cuisine" has led many critics to call his restaurant the best in the world, praised Kikunoi in the introduction he wrote for Mr. Murata's cookbook, "Kaiseki: The Exquisite Cuisine of Japan's Kikunoi Restaurant" (Kodansha International, 2006). "While in the West we cook with the senses, the heart, and logic, the Japanese add to this an extra component . . . the soul. Nowhere is this better exemplified than by the work of Yoshiro Murata," he wrote.

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Interesting article. I checked out this place:

"The kaiseki at Guilo Guilo, meanwhile, is positively radical. In an old house with timbered ceilings, the place hops as waiters bound up steep steps with dishes on their arms."

...and it turns out they're called Girogiro Hitoshina, not Guilo Guilo, and they don't serve kaiseki. It makes me wonder what else the article got wrong....

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