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The Fat Duck 2001


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I was invited by Mr Blumenthal to give The Fat Duck a second chance on the house. As a dedicated "foodie" it was an offer I couldn't refuse. What follows therefore is not a review of The Fat Duck, circumstances mitigate against that. All food and drink were free of charge, I had lengthy discussions with Heston before during and after the meal, and to top it off, I went to the pub with him after. Hardly a sound basis from which to form an objective view.

No, but hardly an unenviable position from someone who loves to eat fine food more than talk about it as well as someone who prefers to talk about it rather than criticize it.  

It appears to be a nice site, by the way.  Looking forward to greater examination.

Robert Buxbaum

WorldTable

Recent WorldTable posts include: comments about reporting on Michelin stars in The NY Times, the NJ proposal to ban foie gras, Michael Ruhlman's comments in blogs about the NJ proposal and Bill Buford's New Yorker article on the Food Network.

My mailbox is full. You may contact me via worldtable.com.

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It was a great opportunity, and a very enjoyable evening. If you read my original review, you will see that I came to a very different conclusion when I actually paid for the meal. However, it made me think twice about forming an opinion about a restaurant on the basis if one meal, and opened my eyes to how much a place can vary given changing circumstances. Because the pieces are virtual opposites of each other I wanted to make sure anyone reading them would understand all the circumstances that could have led to such

seemingly opposing views.        

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I enjoyed a sublimea meal there - everything from the fois gras to the goats ilk ice cream was sublime - for some it may be too modern but i thought it was a real gastronomical experiece. Well done Heston.

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Until the rest of the culinary world catch up, The Fat Duck will always be controversial. But with a Michelin Star, 4 AA rosettes and a Good Food Guide chef of the year award, he seems to be a hit with the critics. I think Heston tries harder than many chefs, and certainly thinks a lot more than most. Maybe that can get in the way of good food though sometimes, too much science and not enough art and craft?

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