Dim sum and other Good Chinese Restos in Paris

[Ptipois]

I've taken comments from another topics and split them. Here are the ones related to dim sum:

Diane (LuckyGirl) on April 7th said:

my husband's cousin drove me through the Asian area of Paris the other day and it got me wondering if there is a noteworthy place for dim sum and also what are the noteworthy places for Chinese.

TIA,

Diane

Julot on April 9th added:

For dim sum, it all depends on what you call noteworthy. People with Hong Kong or even San Francisco experience think that there is no good dim sum to be had in Paris. For us Parisians, Asia Palace is pretty good, to name but one.

Tricotin, avenue de Choisy. Best dim sum in Paris, huge room, always packed. Always open for Sunday brunch so I suppose on Easter Sunday as well.

Edited May 5, 2009 by John Talbott (log)

[RandyB]

I like the New Nioulaville at 32-34, Rue de l'Orillon in the 11th, métro Belleville 75011. It has the feel of what I imagine (from Vancouver BC experiences) a big Hong Kong type place wold be like.

They have dim sum at any hour, too, not just when the chariots are going. One of my tests is Lo Bak Ko (fried turnip cakes). Theirs are excellent. And the dumpling soup (what we think of as wanton soup) is a meal in itself.

Unlike most Parisian restos, they don't give you a hard time when you ask for a doggie bag.

I should warn you all that there are also some tempting live seafood and fish dishes that are pretty high priced.

[John Talbott]

I would simply add that Shan Gout is an exceptional experience.

[LuckyGirl]

Great!

Thank you, RandyB. This sounds like what I am looking for. I love a great turnip cake so it sounds promissing. I am planning to go there when I am in Paris later this week or over the weekend.

John Talbott, I am goig to get to Shan Gout this trip as well, errrr, shall I say, I will not be going to Shan Gout. There are several things I've been craving since I've been in Europe and Szechuan cuisine is one of them.

Thanks for the tips!

[julot-les-pinceaux]

I had a wonderful meal at Chen last week, and it was the lunch menu. Chen may actually be one of my favourite restaurants in Paris, despite (maybe because) all its strangeness. The thing I like best is that this restaurant just does not care about so called authenticity. While there are dragons and chopsticks and all the usual decorum, this is in many way more of a nouvelle cuisine restaurant than a "Chinese" as such. In fact, it tends to revisit Chinese classics the same way that the Troisgros, Guérard and Senderens revisited French classic: emphasis on the ingredient, service à l'assiette, clear, well balanced flavours.

Since Mr. Chen's death, the place sure had some ups and downs, but judging from recent meals, it's as good as ever. It even felt better, actually.

While I'm at it, I'd like to add that Parisian Chinese restaurants, especially the fancy ones like Chen (or Vong, Tsé Yang, Tong Yen, Diep, Tang, Passy Mandarin) are a very uniquely Parisian experience and that food lovers in Paris should not overlook them. As is the case with more casual Chinese, they're also where the value lies in dining.

I'd also like to mention the two excellent cheap restaurants with Shuandong cuisine: Yong, rue de la Colonie, and Délices du Shuandong, bd de l'Hopital.

[olivier]

I had a wonderful meal at Chen last week, and it was the lunch menu. Chen may actually be one of my favourite restaurants in Paris, despite (maybe because) all its strangeness. The thing I like best is that this restaurant just does not care about so called authenticity. While there are dragons and chopsticks and all the usual decorum, this is in many way more of a nouvelle cuisine restaurant than a "Chinese" as such. In fact, it tends to revisit Chinese classics the same way that the Troisgros, Guérard and Senderens revisited French classic: emphasis on the ingredient, service à l'assiette, clear, well balanced flavours.

It's strange, because just after I went, I thought I didn't really like the restaurant. However, with hindsight, the more I think about it, the more I think the place has a purpose, and might actually be enjoyable. That said, I find it too expensive, I remember prices that weren't that much cheaper than some 3-stars restaurants.

How much does the lunch menu cost, by the way?

[naf]

I've always want to avoid Chinese food in Paris, I found them uninventive, poor product, too much MSG... but when I get nostaglic...these are the places worth visiting...

For roasted meat - like barbecued pork, roasted pork or roasted duck (those hanging in the window) . I would recommend Mirama in Paris 5, rue Saint Jacques. Also, their dumpling with noodle soup is quite ok. I remembered once ordering a steamed fish with ginger, it was fresh and very tasty. But most of the dishes are disappointing, especially the vegetable dishes.

For northern chinese food -

Les Pâtes Vivantes (paris 9) is good price ratio small restaurant. What I enjoy there is they make their own noodle, the portion is big and they are delicious. Their menu is simple but somehow unique from most Chinese restaurants in Paris. As for the side dishes, I would say there are a lot ups and downs, depending a lot if it's a busy day, or the mood of the chef. I like the jelly fish with cucumber. It can be a bit stressful when waiting to be seated, since the place is small, and all the people are lining up inside the room, and with the waiters passing.

Another Chinese restaurant we tried once, and I found it quite interesting is called La Cuisine de Chez Moi (Rue Richer, 75009). It's a tiny restaurant, husband cooking in the kitchen and the wife serving, the couple is from Beijing, I believe. I think it takes reservation. Most of the dishes are prepared with care and quite tasty, they are authentic northern cooking: moderately or very spicy. I think if you can't eat spicy food, don't try risking your life...I'm not joking. Some interesting dishes are fried pork intestine.

I've tried Shan Gout once, I enjoyed the cooking, I would say in Paris, this restaurant is superior to most restaurant we have tried, I read somewhere the chef has worked in Chen. The product are fresh and simply prepared. Yet, I found the portion of each dish too small, from entries to the main dishes, we have the same feeling. So if you are very hungry, you can easily ended up with a somewhat overpriced bill.

I read many recommendations on Li Ka Fo (Paris 13), I tried twice, both times I was disappointed. We ordered fried soft shell crabs and crispy duck... They simply tasted like they have been forgotten in the freezer for a long time... I was wondering maybe I was unlucky the first time, but I went again just a few weeks ago, some impression, some dishes are tasteless, others are just average. They offer some more rare dishes like duck tongues. But I don't believe the remark that they are equivalent of Chez L'Ame Jean for Chinese food in Paris. Far from that....

I would like to find good dim sum restaurant too in Paris... I haven't tried Tricotin yet. Most Dim Sum places we tried are just reheating frozen dim sum (I guess you can buy the same yourself from the chinese supermarket and reheat yourself).

Chen sounds good, especially their peking duck... I'm not sure I would want to try it though, because the budget I have for Chen, in my annual trip to Hong Kong, this budget allows me a far superior meal.

I would say that the Chinese cooking is catching up especially starting from last year. The new smaller restaurants offer some varieties and different regional dishes. I hope this trend will still continue...

Edited May 6, 2009 by naf (log)

[LuckyGirl]

While I'm at it, I'd like to add that Parisian Chinese restaurants, especially the fancy ones like Chen (or Vong, Tsé Yang, Tong Yen, Diep, Tang, Passy Mandarin) are a very uniquely Parisian experience and that food lovers in Paris should not overlook them. As is the case with more casual Chinese, they're also where the value lies in dining.

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Of those "fancy" ones you mentioned, could you pick your top 2 or three for me?

Also, thanks for the Shandong recs and thanks to everyone else for their recs. I have quite a list of places I would like to try.

[julot-les-pinceaux]

It's strange, because just after I went, I thought I didn't really like the restaurant. However, with hindsight, the more I think about it, the more I think the place has a purpose, and might actually be enjoyable. That said, I find it too expensive, I remember prices that weren't that much cheaper than some 3-stars restaurants.

How much does the lunch menu cost, by the way?

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(About Chen) I remembered your so-so experience. But the meal I had was just great, and the duck my neighbours had looked like no other. In fact, the way that the breed of the duck itself is a cross Peking-Challans is very emblematic of the restaurant, itself very crossover. The skin was incredibly crispy (I could hear it when the captain was carving it) and the meat was still pink (which is why they cook it further, in the wok).

The lunch menu was 40€. The regular menu is 70€. Some dishes are indeed priced, not like Parisian three star restaurants (considering the ingredients), but like fancy French restaurants. The langoustine dish in particular is scary, and this sure is a place where you have to be careful. Of course you can measure it against Likafo and prices are ridiculous. But measure it against, say, l'Agapé, and I think prices make sense and the experience is more enjoyable to me.

Wanna try it again? I'm game.

(To Lucky girl) The fancy Parisian Chinese are very different from one another, and I really like them all. Like all fancy restaurants, they respond to different envies and expectations.

My favourite is Chen, because I am a fan of nouvelle cuisine well made. It feels very blade-runner like, lost that it is at the street level of that strange Beaugrenelle complexe. Tong Yen is like a Chinese, right-bank Lipp, very Champs-Elysées, people watching, unchallenging but very good food at local prices. Diep rue de Ponthieu (not the one rue Pierre Charron) has subtle cooking and an intimate ambiance. When I was younger, this was my "score" place and it never failed me, if I may share that much. Vong is an incredible journey, a 70s fancy Chinese in a very old stone Parisian building, and has the most authentic Peking Duck in town. For an enhanced family-style Chinese, Passy-Mandarin is the way to go. Tsé-Yang is another incredible setting, right out of (Chinese-style) Cotton Club, a very dark and shiny and clean room that feels absolutely huge. I heard they have another restaurant... on 58th street in NYC.

My personal top two would be Passy-Mandarin and Chen. But I like them all.

Edited May 7, 2009 by julot-les-pinceaux (log)

[olivier]

It's strange, because just after I went, I thought I didn't really like the restaurant. However, with hindsight, the more I think about it, the more I think the place has a purpose, and might actually be enjoyable. That said, I find it too expensive, I remember prices that weren't that much cheaper than some 3-stars restaurants.

How much does the lunch menu cost, by the way?

←

(About Chen) I remembered your so-so experience. But the meal I had was just great, and the duck my neighbours had looked like no other. In fact, the way that the breed of the duck itself is a cross Peking-Challans is very emblematic of the restaurant, itself very crossover. The skin was incredibly crispy (I could hear it when the captain was carving it) and the meat was still pink (which is why they cook it further, in the wok).

I never had any doubt about whether I liked the duck or not. When I went, it was exactly as you say: ultra crisp skin that makes you giggle of joy when you hear it being carved, very good meat with appropriate cooking, and a very tasty stock to end. And somehow, its price seems about right.

On the contrary, I found the starters quite expensive, like the crab and zucchini flowers, which is good, but maybe not 35 EUR good (I think it was the price).

Wines were awfully expensive, too. I remember having a hard time chosing finding a bottle that was not much over 100 EUR (but the one we had was being quite good, I must admit).

The service is worth the visit. I wouldn't be able to say if it's good or bad, it just felt awkward. I was with my in-laws, which maybe enhanced this impression, but still.

I think I'll want to go back someday...

Edited May 7, 2009 by olivier (log)

[pierre45]

Is chen ,the one on rue the Theatre in the 15th?

[olivier]

Is chen ,the one on rue the Theatre in the 15th?

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Yes, exactly, just behind Benkay.

Oh and I forgot to add one thing that made it feel strange: the restaurant was almost totally empty the night we were there, and an empty room always makes me sad, somehow (when the food is good).

[LuckyGirl]

My thanks again to RandyB for the New Nioulaville rec. I will post more when I have a chance to put my thoughts together with my pics but suffice it to say I was there for dim sum lunch today and found it very enjoyable.

[RandyB]

My thanks again to RandyB for the New Nioulaville rec. I will post more when I have a chance to put my thoughts together with my pics but suffice it to say I was there for dim sum lunch today and found it very enjoyable.

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You're welcome. Now I just wish we had as good dim sum in Seattle. I have to go to Vancouver, BC, for the best dim sum.

[Margaret Pilgrim]

My thanks again to RandyB for the New Nioulaville rec. I will post more when I have a chance to put my thoughts together with my pics but suffice it to say I was there for dim sum lunch today and found it very enjoyable.

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You're welcome. Now I just wish we had as good dim sum in Seattle. I have to go to Vancouver, BC, for the best dim sum.

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Naw, just come down to San Francisco. Our lowest end, Hong Kong classics consumed by immigrants not foodies, is our normal Saturday take out lunch. A $7.00 assortment lasts well into Sunday afternoon.

[julot-les-pinceaux]

On my way!

[Margaret Pilgrim]

On my way!

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I hope so.