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TN: Recent tastes


Florida Jim
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Whites:

2005 Dom. de l’Ecu, Muscadet Expression de Garanite:

Very bright, juicy and fresh fruit smells and flavors backed with a peppery spice and mineral backbone; all delivered as though on the snap of a whip. This is a tremendous bottle of wine, has lots of years to go but shows beautifully now. 12% alcohol and about $17, on release.

2005 Tribut, Chablis Côte de Lechet:

Has richened and become more strongly flavored since the end of last year. Steely aromatics but more depth and complexity in the mouth; immense length. I’m guessing this is just starting to reveal its core of concentrated fruit. Very energetic and excellent with grilled chicken. About $26, delivered.

Reds:

1996 Dom. de Montgilet, Anjou Villages:

After 13 years, this has finally become drinkable – actually, more than that – its a smooth, balanced expression of Loire cabernet franc that has good depth of flavor and some richness. For years this wine was nothing but green pepper juice – now, that element is but a hint and the fruit has come around very nicely. But that’s too long to wait for a wine to become drinkable and, while I enjoyed this bottle (my last) tonight, I’ll not be buying more from these folks. 13%alcohol and about $20 on release.

Very brief impressions of wines at lunch and at a tasting:

2003 Marcassin, Pinot Noir:

Spicy and balanced but without complexity and very slightly hot on the finish. Pleasant; no more.

Marcassin, Chardonnay (vintage and vineyard unknown):

All vanilla all the time. Not for me.

1982 Château Ducru-Beacaillou:

A somewhat musty nose (not TCA) but fairly fresh fruit, some grip and a decent finish. Not special but pretty good.

1999 Produtorri del Barbaresco:

Beautiful, feathery wine with sustain and presence. Almost Burgundy-like in weight and texture. Drinking very well.

2006 Bevan Cellars, Syrah:

Too much new wood at this stage of its life for my taste but the concentration and flavor profile are just plain yummy.

2005 Bevan Cellars, Syrah:

Much more complex and with much less oak than the 2006; graceful despite remarkable intensity. Quite good.

1996 Dom Pérignon:

Oh my! Without question, the most delectable and impressive Champagne of my life. Thanks Kevin.

We also had a Paul Hobbes, Cabernet (vintage unknown) that supposedly got 100 points from Mr. Parker. I found it nicely balanced and showing some complexity but having little varietal character and being a little hollow at mid-palate. Then we compared it to the 2006 Bevan Cellars, Cabernet and I found the Bevan to have more character, be more identifiable as cabernet and much more concentrated.

At the end of the night, somebody poured a recent vintage Colgin, Cabernet which smelled like a pickle barrel – I never got any farther than the nose and didn’t want to.

Best, Jim

www.CowanCellars.com

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