Bittman writes about Vancouver . . .

[Fat Guy]

http://nytimes.com/2002/10/27/travel/27TAB.html

I'm a big fan of Mark Bittman. I love almost everything he writes. But this weekend's food-travel story on Vancouver is one of the least compelling pieces I've ever seen from him.

Particularly glaring is the omission of Ouest, which as many here have testified is at least on par with Lumiere and probably better.

[SteveW]

Since the Ouest restaurant is such high profile, I'm guessing it was on Mark Bittman's radar. Maybe he tried the food at the restaurant, & wasn't impressed. Or it was on his itinerary, but ultimately couldn't find the time to drop by, on such a short stay to Vancouver(assuming he only mentioned restaurants that he personally ate at). I find for these type of stories, writers often mention the same damn 5-10 restaurants in whatever city. Of the restaurants that Mark profiled, I recognized every one. The 4 others that he listed as worthy, I recognize all except for one(The Pear Tree). And I never ever been to Vancouver before. What type of food does The Pear Tree serve(it's actually in Burnaby)? Whenever I see stories about the Montreal restaurant scene, I almost always see the same couple of restaurants w/no changes from everybody else. If a writer, feels a certain restaurant(s), is over-rated(or no good), but is somehow compelled to list & write about it, because it's a institution. Then they should be absolutely honest, & say it's over-rated. I don't want anybody to pull any punches. IMO, that's how myths are perpetuated. Maybe some writers are lazy, & don't do the research on their own. What I'm saying here, is not focusing on any one writer. More of an general comment.

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Steve

[cabrales]

At least Bittman didn't tout "C" Restaurant, which would have been a travesty.

[Lesley C]

You can't eat at Ouest and not be impressed.

I found it superior to Lumiere on many levels. The food was outstanding -- the best I've had in Canada so far. Lumiere's food left me cold.

[SteveW]

I wonder for the visits to the Vancouver restaurants, did Mark dine there anonymously, or maybe he gave them advanced notice & identified himself once arriving at these place.

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Steve

[LaurieA-B]

Bittman mentions Cioppino's Enoteca, where we had a delicious meal that Matthew described. Pino's has the additional advantage of being just steps away from Barbara-Jo's Books to Cooks.

[Fat Guy]

I wonder for the visits to the Vancouver restaurants, did Mark dine there anonymously, or maybe he gave them advanced notice & identified himself once arriving at these place.

It is nearly universal policy that New York Times food and travel writers go unannounced. There are exceptions, of course, but the strong presumption is that Bittman did his own thing and the restaurants didn't even know they were being written about at the time he visited.

[SteveW]

Lesley besides Quest, where else in Vancouver did you dine at in August of this year?

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Steve

[Lesley C]

Ouest, Lumiere and ...The Pear Tree!

It's great! I can't believe he tracked that little place down.

[Jinmyo]

Mr. Feenie, a candid admirer of the better-known North American chefs, does not so much imitate them as allow himself to be inspired by them.

Okay, okay. I'll lay off the Nob Feely jokes.

[bgood]

As long as Bittman was in the neighbourhood he should have given Bin 942 a try. It never seems to get the attention that the big names do but the food is fabulous. You don't get waiters hovering over you like at Ouest but the food is great.

Like Vij it has a very casual atmosphere but is very serious about what ends up on your plate.

[Fat Guy]

I very much enjoyed meals (well, more like late-night snack-fests) at both Bin restaurants. I'm not sure they'd rate high enough to make it into a top-level Vancouver dining roundup, though.

I imagine many of Bittman's dining choices were dictated by whatever local contacts, media or otherwise, he placed his faith in. In this case, they did him a disservice by not insisting on a meal at Ouest. It's such a gaping hole in the piece, I can only hope it was just a word-processor malfunction.

[cabrales]

Below is a small Washington Post write-up from November 3, 2002, on Vancouver:

"Postcard from Tom. Washington Post food critic Tom Sietsema's monthly report from the road.

Be sure to seek out such local treasures as oysters, Dungeness crab and

'Indian candy' (that would be hot smoked salmon) in Vancouver-foodwise, Canada's

answer to San Francisco. Here are three top spots for dining:

LUMIERE (2251 W. Broadway, 604-739-8185) Using the best ingredients from across Canada, cooking maestro Rob Feenie stages an edible fashion show of small, fetching and fabulous dishes with his multi-course tasting menus (including a vegetarian option). Among my favorite memories: saffron-infused tomato water with spot prawn ravioli and lemon oil, and roasted veal enhanced with a chanterelle ragout and garlic froth. The dining room is spare and chic; the suave servers could all pass for movie stars. Eight-course chef's menu $ 60.

OUEST (2881 Granville St., 604-738-8938) Ask for a table near the open kitchen and the chance to observe chef David Hawksworth, a veteran of some of Britain's top restaurants, prepare your meal. Choose from among roast duck with caramelized crabapples, local mushrooms with herbed gnocchi, or something whimsical, like a savory tart of figs and foie gras. This sure, seasonal, West Coast cooking unfolds in a two-story room made inviting with soft leather walls, cherry wood bar and cool marble floors. Dinner entrees $ 12-$ 25."

There is a third paragraph on Sun Sui Wah, which focuses on dim sum there.