Piemonte and Milano recommendations

[bmdaniel]

So almost exactly 1 year ago, I proposed to my then girlfriend in Paris, with the help of some amazing eGulleters. (You can see the thread herehere)

We are finally tying the knot in Napa on June 12th and then flying to Europe for the honeymoon. Thus, I come begging back to you guys for suggestions on the best places to celebrate our marriage.

A little background on the trip; originally I was thinking we'd go to Asia because it'd be something completely different than what we'd ever done before. However, we were amazingly lucky enough to get a reservation at El Bulli for June 16th!!, and so ended up planning the trip (at least to some extent) around that.

We'll be in Spain from the 15th to the 22nd, and then flying into Milan on the 23rd. The current plan is to head straight to the place we are staying in Piemonte (Castello di Sinio, in Sinio I guess), and explore down there for 3 days before heading back to Milan for one day. I've tried to put together a list of starter ideas I've gleaned from other posts for comments - we'll probably try to do one nice lunch and one nice dinner everyday (but not to overdo it with 2 overly heavy meals). Any help narrowing the list or adding places I've overlooked would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance for your help!

Piemonte

Da Cesare

Tratoria Della Posta

Piazza Duomo

Osteria Del'Arco

Ciau al Tornavento

Enoclub

La Libera

Borgo Antico

Milan

Cracco

Il Luogo di Aimo e Nadia

Gelato suggestions?

Coffee suggestions?

[pkeibel]

I was just in Piemonte this past fall but we were west of Castello di Sinio. We went from Saluzzo to Lago Maggiore by bicycle. We did fly out of Milan and dined at Cracco for one of the best meals of our lives and highly recommend it. You can't go wrong with Grom gelato and there is one in Milan. Check their web site for other shops that may be in towns you are visiting. If you tell me other towns you will be visiting I can see if we hit similar places.

[robert brown]

I've never been to Renzo outside of the truffle season, but it has to be one of the two or three best addresses up there. As it's closer to Cuneo, it's a bit out of the way.

In Milan we also go to Trattoria del Nuovo Macello for their unforgettable veal cutlet Milanese. It is also one of the friendliest restaurants I know of. Under your circumstances, however, you're right to go to Cracco, which on a good day can be great.

[pedalaforte]

A quick reply:

-- best gelato in Milan, that I had, at least: a place called Chocolat! We went out of our way to get there two times, as did our friends.

Restaurants in Piedmont you're missing, perhaps (we might have different styles. I like smaller trattorias now, although I still do up the ante every so often):

-- such as at Antine

-- such as at Al Enoteca

As for a step down in decor and presentation (and big drop in price) but not food quality

-- Osteria dell-Unione, just down the road from Ciau di Tornavento

-- Ostu d'Ajun in Castignito, small place, nice stuff

-- Crota di Callos in Calosso, which also is the regional enoteca. Cheap wines.

-- Vignaiola, near La Morra (Santa Maria). Great place, becoming found.

-- in Barolo, hmmmm, is it Cantinetta, whcih was great (unless in is Cantinella. Damn.)

-- In asti, go to Tacabanda for lunch. It's maybe 10-15 Euro for lunch, with a great, inexpensive wine list.

Lots more!

[fortedei]

I've never been to Renzo outside of the truffle season, but it has to be one of the two or three best addresses up there. As it's closer to Cuneo, it's a bit out of the way.

In Milan we also go to Trattoria del Nuovo Macello for their unforgettable veal cutlet Milanese. It is also one of the friendliest restaurants I know of. Under your circumstances, however, you're right to go to Cracco, which on a good day can be great.

←

And on an average day?

And on a not good day?

[robert brown]

He's like a ball player. You never know when he might go 2 for 4. 3 for 4 , or even 4 for 4. The first time I went, he was close to an oh-four; the second, two doubles and a triple in 5 ab's. He's somewhat my man Youkilis, but not an MOT.

[fortedei]

He's like a ball player. You never know when he might go 2 for 4. 3 for 4 , or even 4 for 4. The first time I went, he was close to an oh-four; the second, two doubles and a triple in 5 ab's. He's somewhat my man Youkilis, but not an MOT.

←

A very close friend of mine, Antonio Santini, once told me (not in this exact phrase of course) that he and Nadia had to go 4 for 4 every night. That's what people expected. This by the way was when he had only one star.

[robert brown]

Not the same Santini who used to be on Johnny Carson!!!! No wonder he never had an off-day.

[fortedei]

Not the same Santini who used to be on Johnny Carson!!!!  No wonder he never had an off-day.

←

No, you've confused two people. The guy on Carson was Antinio Santoni

[Peter Rodgers]

So almost exactly 1 year ago, I proposed to my then girlfriend in Paris, with the help of some amazing eGulleters. (You can see the thread herehere)

We are finally tying the knot in Napa on June 12th and then flying to Europe for the honeymoon. Thus, I come begging back to you guys for suggestions on the best places to celebrate our marriage.

A little background on the trip; originally I was thinking we'd go to Asia because it'd be something completely different than what we'd ever done before. However, we were amazingly lucky enough to get a reservation at El Bulli for June 16th!!, and so ended up planning the trip (at least to some extent) around that.

We'll be in Spain from the 15th to the 22nd, and then flying into Milan on the 23rd. The current plan is to head straight to the place we are staying in Piemonte (Castello di Sinio, in Sinio I guess), and explore down there for 3 days before heading back to Milan for one day. I've tried to put together a list of starter ideas I've gleaned from other posts for comments - we'll probably try to do one nice lunch and one nice dinner everyday (but not to overdo it with 2 overly heavy meals). Any help narrowing the list or adding places I've overlooked would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance for your help!

Piemonte

Da Cesare

Tratoria Della Posta

Piazza Duomo

Osteria Del'Arco

Ciau al Tornavento

Enoclub

La Libera

Borgo Antico

Milan

Cracco

Il Luogo di Aimo e Nadia

Gelato suggestions?

Coffee suggestions?

←

I would second the recommendation on Da Renzo -- it is to my mind the most consistent of the Piemonte area's wonderful collection of restaurants. Go at lunch, when you likely will get the most attention.

I would add Il Centro (Priocca) and I Bologna (Rochetta Tanaro) to the list. Cesare is a crapshoot, because of its inconsistency, although probably worth the visit for the baby goat that he roasts in the dining room. We have had a number of disappointing meals at La Ciau del Tornavento lately. I think its gotten too big for its britches. Finally, for a real sleeper, try La Luna nel Pozzo in Neive.

[robert brown]

In all seriousness, didn't Carson play the Great Santini? Also, I have to think there is a lot of volatility in general in dining in PIemonte. While I haven't been to Il Centro in a few years, it went from first to worse in two visits. But what about Al Enoteca in Canale? It's solid.

[bmdaniel]

Thanks to everyone for the great suggestions - here's my tentative plan; comments/criticisms welcomed.

Piedmont

Tuesday Dinner - Cocinella (near the hotel, arriving later that evening)

Wednesday Lunch - Da Renzo

Wenesday Dinner - Piazza Duomo

Thursday Lunch - Antine

Thursday Dinner - La Luna Nel Pozzo

Milan

Friday Lunch - Latteria San Marco

Friday Dinner - Cracco

Too many great places, too little time! (Would love to fit in De Cesare, Boccondivino, Enoclub, so many others!)

[tupac17616]

Thanks to everyone for the great suggestions - here's my tentative plan; comments/criticisms welcomed.

Piedmont

Tuesday Dinner - Cocinella (near the hotel, arriving later that evening)

Wednesday Lunch - Da Renzo

Wenesday Dinner - Piazza Duomo

Thursday Lunch - Antine

Thursday Dinner - La Luna Nel Pozzo

Milan

Friday Lunch - Latteria San Marco

Friday Dinner - Cracco

Too many great places, too little time! (Would love to fit in De Cesare, Boccondivino, Enoclub, so many others!)

←

In my opinion, eating at Da Renzo in Cervere and Piazza Duomo in Alba in the same day might kill you.

Eating 7 meals out in a row might kill you.

Eating anywhere and Cracco in the same day might kill you.

In other words, you're a brave, brave man.

Piazza Duomo is very, very good. I went about a week and a half ago. We gave chef Crippa carte blanche, and he wowed us with 17 courses, not even counting the parade of amuses before the meal and petit fours after. Crippa's flavors are just so beautifully balanced, and nothing about his food is heavy-handed. We left feeling great. I would not miss this place.

Da Renzo is also very good, though in a very different vein. In my opinion, it's a great place to try traditional Piemontese cuisine.

Near Cracco in Milan, I think Peck makes good gelato, especially the honey flavor. For coffee, Zucca in the Galeria Vittorio Emanuele is not far, either.

Not near Cracco but in Milan, I've heard great things about Il Massimo del Gelato, though I've not had a chance to try it myself just yet.

Saw Cracco's new spring menu the other day, by the way. Looks very nice.

I think Cracco is a great.

[robert brown]

Latteria San Marco (Arturorosa) is a little gem; the ultimate expression of a modest and completely honest family restaurant. You go there to eat well and inexpensively (and rather quickly) and with no pretense. Let us know what you think.

[Rogelio]

If memory doesn't fail Da Renzo closes on wednesdays, at leat last summer. Check it before organizing your trip.

Another good recco is Villa D'Amelia where Damiano Nigro is taking a new approach to classic piedmont dishes.

[bmdaniel]

My list ended up being:

Trattorie della Posta

Piazza Duomo

Antine

Da Renzo

Latteria San Marco

Cracco

We are Spain right now and everything has been amazing so far - I am posting though because I have a worry; I ended up leaving (in the post-wedding whirlwind) with a suit jacket; will I have a problem dining in any of these restaurants in nice pants and a button down shirt?

Thanks again to everyone who has helped!

[fortedei]

My list ended up being:

Trattorie della Posta

Piazza Duomo

Antine

Da Renzo

Latteria San Marco

Cracco

We are Spain right now and everything has been amazing so far - I am posting though because I have a worry; I ended up leaving (in the post-wedding whirlwind) with a suit jacket; will I have a problem dining in any of these restaurants in nice pants and a button down shirt?

Thanks again to everyone who has helped!

←

Are you kidding me. This is Italy, not France.

[robert brown]

I recently shared the veranda at La Pineta with the son-in-law of Giacomo Bologna who strongly recommended Ciau di Tornavento, saying that since the restaurant changed hand five years ago, the food has gotten to be very good. Any fresh visits anyone can report?