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The Michelin Red Guide 2009


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Is it me or is there just not as much buzz about who is moving up and down in Michelin this year? In the past years, I seem to recall there have been little guessing games here on the forum. Isn't the red guide due out next month?

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Is it me or is there just not as much buzz about who is moving up and down in Michelin this year? In the past years, I seem to recall there have been little guessing games here on the forum. Isn't the red guide due out next month?

Yup. Yup. Yup. But Francois is about to reveal the leaks.

John Talbott

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He did already. That would be, he said, third star for le Bristol, two stars back for l'Espadon @ Ritz and one star for Paul Bert and Camdeborde.

Are you referring to the piece he wrote Jan 7th? I think there's more to come.

What makes you say that?

Simon just wrote on his blog about the loss of the third star for a Champs-Elysées restaurant, and wonders whether Ducasse, Gagnaire or Le Squer will be affected.

He also stated that he probably won't hunt the rumors down this year... maybe he just knows he won't get any fresh gossip?

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Actually he said yes for the Bristol and Ritz , but the others was more written in a "wishful thinking" style..I'm waiting to see if it's Ducasse, Gagnaire or Lesquer who go from three to two...

Edited by fresh_a (log)

Anti-alcoholics are unfortunates in the grip of water, that terrible poison, so corrosive that out of all substances it has been chosen for washing and scouring, and a drop of water added to a clear liquid like Absinthe, muddles it." ALFRED JARRY

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My 2 cents ...

Gagnaire - It can be said that he and Bras carry the burden for the future of French cuisine, they still improve and put some "fight" with the ®evolution of Spanish and German fine dining, so I think it's impossible and insane to drop it to 2*

Ducasse - It may not be the most fascination, but the ingredients freshness and luxury are almost second to none. With about 1 chef per 2-3 diners as well as high precision in execution ... putting ADPA at the same level as Adour or Ducasse Dorchester will be somewhat ridiculous

Ledoyen - The place where the chef is simply getting better day by day. I barely read any bad reviews from foodies here. With that, it will be sad if its the case, but I doubt it ...

So the 3 places above should stay as they are. Talking about Champs-Elysses place, though not exactly, I think if there is one demotion ... not easy choice, but Guy Savoy (having dining in all these places) would make more sense than Gagnaire, Ducasse or LeSquer IMHO

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It's all in the rumor mill anyway- I doubt any of those will move from three to two stars...

Anti-alcoholics are unfortunates in the grip of water, that terrible poison, so corrosive that out of all substances it has been chosen for washing and scouring, and a drop of water added to a clear liquid like Absinthe, muddles it." ALFRED JARRY

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I'm with Fresh_a. This is full of crap (pardon my French).

First, Savoy is not in the 8th so he's not concerned by Simon's argument that there would be too many *** in the 8th. Second, Le Cinq and Taillevent used to be *** too, and there were not too many *** in the 8th then (there's no question that those two lost their third star fair and square). Also, if you count stars, the 8th always had more than half the total stars of Paris (off the top of my head, le Cinq, Stella Maris, Laurent, Taillevent, Dominique Bouchet, Spoon, Le Lancaster, Flora Danica, le Chiberta, les Ambassadeurs, Apicius, Lasserre, Senderens, l'Angle du Faubourg are all in the eigth) .

Would you have said that one of Per Se, Jean-Georges or Ducasse when he was there should lose their third star because they were all along South Central Park? That's ridiculous.

As often, this is Simon trying to show he's well connected and understands how it works. Good for him.

I too am interested in the rising star. In particular, I'd like to know whether Robert at La Grande Cascade will get the second star he clearly deserves more than, say, l'Atelier de JR.

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My 2 cents ...

Gagnaire - It can be said that he and Bras carry the burden for the future of French cuisine, they still improve and put some "fight" with the ®evolution of Spanish and German fine dining, so I think it's impossible and insane to drop it to 2*

Ducasse - It may not be the most fascination, but the ingredients freshness and luxury are almost second to none. With about 1 chef per 2-3 diners as well as high precision in execution ... putting ADPA at the same level as Adour or Ducasse Dorchester will be somewhat ridiculous

Ledoyen - The place where the chef is simply getting better day by day. I barely read any bad reviews from foodies here. With that, it will be sad if its the case, but I doubt it ...

So the 3 places above should stay as they are. Talking about Champs-Elysses place, though not exactly, I think if there is one demotion ... not easy choice, but Guy Savoy (having dining in all these places) would make more sense than Gagnaire, Ducasse or LeSquer IMHO

Our meal at Guy Savoy was the best we had in Paris. "Carrying the burden for the future" is not the same as serving a great meal. Robyn

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Any thoughts on France Soir unveiling the new guides stars? (in French) :

Three stars Paris

Bristol (we already knew that..)

Two stars, Paris and suburbs

Gordon Ramsay, Versailles Michel Roth , Hôtel Ritz à Paris

One star Paris

Agapé, la Bigarade, Etc, le Fogon, le Jules Verne, 35 Ouest, l’Arôme, l’Angelique.

Might be a bit dubious seeing as they got the names of a few restaurants in province wrong, misspelled...

Edited by fresh_a (log)

Anti-alcoholics are unfortunates in the grip of water, that terrible poison, so corrosive that out of all substances it has been chosen for washing and scouring, and a drop of water added to a clear liquid like Absinthe, muddles it." ALFRED JARRY

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Good for Gordon! But I am a bit disapointed that Robert at la Grande Cascade did not get the second star.

Fréchon sounds like Savoy years ago: so long expected that it comes too late, fixing a past mistake with a new one. But as they all say, since it is Sarkozy's favourite...

The first stars sound once again like Michelin running after the trend.

Le Figaro confirmed most of these this morning.

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Fréchon sounds like Savoy years ago: so long expected that it comes too late, fixing a past mistake with a new one. But as they all say, since it is Sarkozy's favourite...

Sounds like the Oscars...

I was young and foolish and bypassed le Bristol when Frechon was, by all reports, at the top of his game a few years go. I just visited in December (2008) and had a pretty good meal. But I'm not sure I would consider it 3 star quality.

And I agree with Bu Pun Su above - I had a very good meal at Ledoyen and would hate to see LeSquer lose his third.

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Fréchon sounds like Savoy years ago: so long expected that it comes too late, fixing a past mistake with a new one. But as they all say, since it is Sarkozy's favourite...

Sounds like the Oscars...

I was young and foolish and bypassed le Bristol when Frechon was, by all reports, at the top of his game a few years go. I just visited in December (2008) and had a pretty good meal. But I'm not sure I would consider it 3 star quality.

And I agree with Bu Pun Su above - I had a very good meal at Ledoyen and would hate to see LeSquer lose his third.

Any bad acceptance speeches? :raz:

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come on! are these all the juicy details you can muster?! this year is weak.

on a side note, is piege getting fired and replaced for Philippe Labbe from the Chevre d'Or? I dont know where i heard this rumor..

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I heard it too.

It is indeed a very quiet year. We might as well start discussing the 2010 edition in hope for more juicy news -- the demotion of Guy Martin, etc.

When will the 2009 Red Guide be published? In your opinion, what has happened at Le Grand Vefour?

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I heard it too.

It is indeed a very quiet year. We might as well start discussing the 2010 edition in hope for more juicy news -- the demotion of Guy Martin, etc.

When will the 2009 Red Guide be published? In your opinion, what has happened at Le Grand Vefour?

Simon says March 2nd.

John Talbott

blog John Talbott's Paris

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I heard it too.

It is indeed a very quiet year. We might as well start discussing the 2010 edition in hope for more juicy news -- the demotion of Guy Martin, etc.

When will the 2009 Red Guide be published? In your opinion, what has happened at Le Grand Vefour?

You mean how in hell did Guy Martin get a third star some day and was ever considered a major chef? I have no idea. I mean, I know the Michelin is as much in bed with Ducasse as they ever were with Bocuse, so this explains that. But Martin? No clue.

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in hope for more juicy news -- the demotion of Guy Martin, etc.

I have only been in 2001 and I did not taste the three stars either. Having continuously heard similar stories from other people I found the demotion last year unsurprising. But two stars seemed not exactly outrageous. You think it is so bad now that he needs to go down to one?

While talking about Guy Martin...he just opened a Sensing in Boston. Not at all bad (especially compared to what else is considered great cooking around here) while at the same time demonstrating that he is no Robuchon who seems to be able to pull off a surprisingly classy restaurant chain. But for those who find Le Grand Vefour's ambiance over the top this would be a pleasant surprise. Looks like the breakfast room in a suburban Marriott.

Edited by glauer (log)
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  • 2 weeks later...
I heard it too.

It is indeed a very quiet year. We might as well start discussing the 2010 edition in hope for more juicy news -- the demotion of Guy Martin, etc.

When will the 2009 Red Guide be published? In your opinion, what has happened at Le Grand Vefour?

Simon says March 2nd.

Not long now then....

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