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Fine Dining in Manchester


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A couple of options would be Ithaca (although certainly not French) and Michael Caines at ABode. If you just fancy a good steak at any time just try Gaucho Grill. I've not been for a little while but enjoyed my meal at Lounge Ten a while back.

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I guess trying to meet your preferences of city centre, highish-end and French-inspired, I'd suggest the French at the Midland Hotel. It's a classic high-end hotel dining room (and the last place to hold a Michelin star in the centre - it's some time back, though). Some folk regard it as old-fashioned; I prefer to think of it as a Grande Dame. Anyway, here's my notes from our meal last August:

The Midland Hotel stands as a symbol of Manchester’s wealth and influence during its Edwardian Belle Epoque. And the restaurant – the French – is at its heart. As somewhere that has stood the test of time, it seemed appropriate to celebrate our 36th anniversary here.

The oval room is just off the main lobby and bar area – sufficiently far away for the pianist to be only (but pleasant ) background music. Service is formal and very attentive – perhaps a little too attentive. Is it really necessary for staff to thank diners each and every time some small part of their duty is carried out.

As we read the menu and sip an aperitif, bread arrives. “Arrives” is the right word, as it’s a trolley laden with different loaves, from which thick slices are cut. Tomato & olive and a blue cheese one are particularly gutsy.

Then a clever amuse. A wafer thin slice of tuna – cooked ever so briefly on both sides that it remained raw in the middle – salad nicoise garnish with quail egg.

Cauliflower soup came with a rarebit beignet. Well seasoned and creamy but with the taste of cauliflower showing through. The beignet matching its cheeseiness to the soup. Classic flavour combination.

The other starter, described as a “tarte fine”, was a thin disc of puff pastry, topped with field mushrooms, pea shoots and a fired quail egg. Good crisp pastry. Very mushroomy mushrooms. The shoots providing a texture change more than adding flavour. The single fried egg adding nothing of significance.

We opted for the restaurant’s signature main course dish of Chateaubriand. Classic old-fashioned dish, classically served – being carved at the table. Generous portion of very fine fillet. Thick béarnaise with a good tarragon hit. A tower of fondant potato and a few green and broad beans with some peas – all very summery. In these days of the “modern British” menu, it was good to see this available. And it seemed that at least half of the other diners had thought the same.

There was a 20 minute wait for the raspberry soufflé to be prepared. Good flavour if slightly overcooked. The accompanying raspberry ice-cream was delicious.

The other dessert brought a custard tart, with nutmeg ice-cream and mini Eccles cakes. Good custard but the pastry needed a tad longer cooking. Ice-cream was, again, superb. Eccles cakes seemed a bit pointless.

We finished with coffee which came with chocolate petit fours. These were not good examples of the art being merely sweet.

Including for the aperitifs and a half bottle of Cotes du Rhone, the bill came to £130. We were happy to add a 10% tip.

John Hartley

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What are the best high-end dining options in Manchester and environs? I am aware that there are no Michelin star restaurants in the city itself, and the nearest option of that kind is Juniper in Altrincham. French or French-inspired would be good, though not essential.

Juniper just lost its star; I believe the chef moved to Scotland. Shame - I ate there once and rather liked it. Northcote Manor's not too far away.

Read about what I've been eating at http://theeatingwell.blogspot.com/

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Northcote's hardly French inspired though.

There have been literally hundreds of posts on this subject over the last year or so and Thom must be too-busy two-timing this board with Skyscraper City to have noticed and given his usual report.

The French at the Midland, as noted, is the nearest you'll get in the city if you really want French inspired. Seems weird to come to Manchester and do that though?

Abode is usually seen as the best high-end, though the service is a bit lacking still. THere's a couple of good British places (including ours which is going more and more down the 'obscure bits of animal' route). Harvey Nicks fourth floor is lovely, but service can be a bit hit and miss. The cooking is getting better and better, and would be my high-end venue of choice.

Depends what you mean by environs though. Northcote is easy reach, as is Fraiche in Birkinhead. As is L'Enclume in Cumbria (ninety minutes-ish on the train). As is Anthony's in Leeds. None exactly French though (whatever two of their names might imply)!

It no longer exists, but it was lovely.

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I've only eaten the once at The French @ the Midland, enjoyed it very much.

With the caveat that it is very old school (food and service) and to my mind overpriced for the standard of cooking. (My fish was well overcooked)

I was on a 50% off the food deal (for two), and at that price it was well worth it. Full whack...not so sure. If the cooking was better, definitely.

But, as I said that is based on one visit.

The Maitre d' Bruno has been there over 35 years I believe, smooth as silk. :rolleyes:

http://www.qhotels.co.uk/hotels/the-midlan...restaurant.aspx

The Gastronomique menu at The French Restaurant can be booked from Tuesday to Friday and offers excellent value for money with two, three or four course options from £29.

^^Anyone done any of these?

ALC Menu

http://www.qhotels.co.uk/pdf/French%20Rest...20Brochures.pdf

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There have been literally hundreds of posts on this subject over the last year or so and Thom must be too-busy two-timing this board with Skyscraper City to have noticed and given his usual report.

In forum-whoring terms it's actually a classic love triangle as you should see the amount of my time that FISO, the Fantasy Football forum also takes up...

Anyway, as regards Manchester fine-dining most of the city centre suspects have been mentioned and fairly appraised, but to add my own two-pennoth-worth:

Harvey Nichols:

I always liked it (desserts a speciality as the head chef is, unusually, an ex pastry chef) but I haven't eaten there in almost a year and if anything recent reports suggest it has moved on another notch. It gets the highest mark for Manchester city centre in the GFG (for what that's worth) and also the highest in th HN group. Winelist is good too, mainly down to the attached wine-shop in the food market.

Abode:

I really do like it, which suprises me as I really thought I wouldn't. Some people still don't seem to have bought into the grazing menu but for me, despite the naff "concept" this is where the most interesting food is to be found. Service isn't tip-top but has never actively irked me, and aside from a slightly gloomy room I think it's a strong string to Manchester's culinary bow.

Ithaca:

I worry about this place: Bling to the nth degree, £4m to build, staff haemorraged at a frightening rate, deluges of marketing texts for special offers, but... the food is still pretty darn good. It's kind of Nobu-knock-off, but still offers the best sushi in town and a passable passing off of the black cod dish. Ignore the eye-wateringly over-done decor and suprisingly poky dining room and just enjoy the food.

The French:

I think as with reports above (and our own Jay Rayner's review) this is decent if not top-notch classical (very classical) French dining which charges too much and gets away with it because it is the only such show in town. The problem is that if have the inclination and money to enjoy this sort of dining you'll probably have already done so to a higher standard in many other places. Oh, and Bruno, the brilliant Restaurant Manager and all round life and soul of the place has, I think, retired.

Juniper:

Ohhhh... Thorny issue this. Yes, it lost it's star due to the change of chef and new reports are... mixed. The local reviewers (MEN, Metro, possibly Man Con) raved about it, the paying food-nerd public (including a few of the eGullet regulars) found it a lot less successful. The chef Michael Riemenschnieder, has pedigree, but with his other place (The Abbey in Cornwall) also losing a star he has his work cut out. I want a place like this to work in Manchester and I'm due to go there in the next few weeks so I'll report back!

Ramsons:

A wild card this, and a little out of town in the burgeoning foodie enclave of Ramsbottom (yes that's the real name). It's out in t'hills of the Pennines on the periphery of the city (Maybe half an hour on the train or similar?) but it's arguably worth a visit as it scores a high 5 in the GFG, was voted their National Reader's Restaurant Of The Year, and also recently picked up Best Restaurant and Lifetime Achievement awards in recent Manchester Food And Drink Festival Awards.

The food is Anglo-Italian rather than French, but the sourcing is spot on and the chef Abdulla Nazeem (there's also another chef, possibly on pastry, who is ex-Fat Duck and very well regarded?) is a talented lad. It's informal but serious if that makes sense, and even eGulleers should find enough on the menu to excite them. Also, the Italian wine-list is a labour of love by the owner and is absolutely fantastic.

Cheers

Thom

ETA Ramson's website

Edited by thom (log)

It's all true... I admit to being the MD of Holden Media, organisers of the Northern Restaurant and Bar exhibition, the Northern Hospitality Awards and other Northern based events too numerous to mention.

I don't post here as frequently as I once did, but to hear me regularly rambling on about bollocks - much of it food and restaurant-related - in a bite-size fashion then add me on twitter as "thomhetheringto".

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Just a quick note on Juniper. I think I am right in saying that it lost it's star because of closure for much of the year. Paul Kitching upped sticks to Edinburgh to open Hotel Angela (still no opening date) back in March. Remenschnider did not open until mid October - too late for the inspectors to make a judgement as the guide was in the editorial stage at this point.

I too am due to visit in three weeks time and will report back.

Always hungry.

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Just a quick note on Juniper. I think I am right in saying that it lost it's star because of closure for much of the year. Paul Kitching upped sticks to Edinburgh to open Hotel Angela (still no opening date) back in March. Remenschnider did not open until mid October - too late for the inspectors to make a judgement as the guide was in the editorial stage at this point.

I too am due to visit in three weeks time and will report back.

THats what Murun Buchstansangur and co are claiming. However, as pointed out on the Michelin thread, other restaurants opening later in the year HAVE got stars

It no longer exists, but it was lovely.

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THats what Murun Buchstansangur and co are claiming. However, as pointed out on the Michelin thread, other restaurants opening later in the year HAVE got stars

Isn't it the case that restaurants that have been awarded a star on a short-turnaround after a change of chef or closure had taken on or retained "pedigree" chefs who already had a track record of stars with Michelin (I'm thinking Matthew Tompkinson, Angela Hartnet, Richard Corrigan etc)?

I think Gary Marshall made the point on The Michelin thread that although stars are awarded to a restaurant they actually tend to follow chefs? He used the example of Simon Gueller who, from my hit and miss memory, cooked at Racasse, Pool Court and the Boxtree, each of which gained a star as he joined and lost it if he left.

I'm 99% sure that although Michael Riemenschneider has taken on two Michelin-starred restaurants he hasn't yet won a star in his own right. No disgrace there though, to be fair he is only 26! Actually forget the stars, I want to know where he gets the finances to acquire two restaurants at that age!?

Maybe semi-pro ice hockey paid better than I suspected.

Cheers

Thom

Edited by thom (log)

It's all true... I admit to being the MD of Holden Media, organisers of the Northern Restaurant and Bar exhibition, the Northern Hospitality Awards and other Northern based events too numerous to mention.

I don't post here as frequently as I once did, but to hear me regularly rambling on about bollocks - much of it food and restaurant-related - in a bite-size fashion then add me on twitter as "thomhetheringto".

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I want to know where he gets the finances to acquire two restaurants at that age!?

Weren't there "money people" somewhere behind Paul Kitching? And, if correct, presumably they are still there?

John Hartley

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I want to know where he gets the finances to acquire two restaurants at that age!?

Weren't there "money people" somewhere behind Paul Kitching? And, if correct, presumably they are still there?

There were indeed. I met the last once with Paul - she owned the actual building and the company Juniper traded under - but I can't remember the name. Also, not sure if that was solely owned by her or a JV with Paul and Katie.

I do know though that when Juniper was up for sale it was pitched out to a couple of interested parties for around the £500k mark. At the time Michael picked it up the market may have been moving in the buyers favour but even at a discount it's a fair size figure to meet.

I'll pick his brains when I'm down there. Because I'm a nosey inquisitive bugger.

Cheers

Thom

It's all true... I admit to being the MD of Holden Media, organisers of the Northern Restaurant and Bar exhibition, the Northern Hospitality Awards and other Northern based events too numerous to mention.

I don't post here as frequently as I once did, but to hear me regularly rambling on about bollocks - much of it food and restaurant-related - in a bite-size fashion then add me on twitter as "thomhetheringto".

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And there we are all bigging up the wonder of Harvey Nick's as the best fine dining place in Manc and Ms Seagrave decides to leave

I know, I was gutted when she told me as we were lining her up to do a demo at the exhibition!

Annoying what with her notice period the show timing falls terribly as it is too late for her to truly represent HN but too early for them to be happy for her to promote her new venture.

Which, I have to say, sounds fantastic. She always was a top-notch pastry chef and hey who doesn't like cakes.

Cheers

Thom

It's all true... I admit to being the MD of Holden Media, organisers of the Northern Restaurant and Bar exhibition, the Northern Hospitality Awards and other Northern based events too numerous to mention.

I don't post here as frequently as I once did, but to hear me regularly rambling on about bollocks - much of it food and restaurant-related - in a bite-size fashion then add me on twitter as "thomhetheringto".

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  • 6 months later...
I guess trying to meet your preferences of city centre, highish-end and French-inspired, I'd suggest the French at the Midland Hotel. It's a classic high-end hotel dining room (and the last place to hold a Michelin star in the centre - it's some time back, though). Some folk regard it as old-fashioned; I prefer to think of it as a Grande Dame.

Based on this recommendation, I booked The French last Friday evening for my friend's birthday dinner. Some may find it stuffy, old-fashioned, and unoriginal, but for this type of meal it's exactly what we were looking for.

When the food isn't innovative, it needs to be impeccably prepared, and that's exactly what happened. I had a beet and goat cheese salad and pork belly; she had a terrine and fillet of cod—simple things, but difficult to do really well. We didn't taste each other's dishes, but she seemed as pleased as I was. We didn't order desserts, but as it was her birthday, the restaurant presented a panna cotta to share, for which I was not charged.

The service, elegant though it was, had some flaws. One dish on the short menu wasn't available, because "it wasn't ready yet," a bizarre explanation for a restaurant that doesn't open until 7:00 p.m. The wine list isn't lengthy, and it looked like it hadn't been reprinted in some time. Sure enough, the first wine I picked wasn't in stock. After dinner, my friend asked for some Calvados, and they didn't have that either, though we were happy with a single-malt whiskey that we selected instead.

Dinner for two with a bottle of wine and a round of after-dinner drinks was about £97 before tip, and while that may be expensive by Manchester standards, it was less than I would pay in New York for a meal of comparable quality.

Edited by oakapple (log)
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Phew, that's a relief. Always happy when a recommendation works.

We're planning a revisit in the not too distant future. My in-laws are in their late 70s and will have passed the front entrance on many many occasions over their lives, but have never been inside. "Too posh for the likes of us", I'd bet they'd have said. Anyway, we're taking them for dinner whilst, erm , there's still chance.

John Hartley

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