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Lou Fassum


Underhill

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Last month we went with local friends for lunch at Lou Fassum, a newish restaurant in the village of Plascassier---a fortuitous choice, as Julia Child once lived there.The restaurant sits on a hill with a view across to the Esterel coast and the Mediterranean, and there is a large terrace for taking advantage of the scenery in warm weather. The restaurant is named for an old Provençal stuffed-cabbage dish, and diners are given a copy of the recipe. The restaurant has, and more than deserves, one Michelin star.

After some discussion (those with French friends know how they love to talk about food) we settled on the tasting menu, which proved an excellent choice. It is served only for an entire table.

First came the best black-olive tapenade I've ever had. Tapenade is easy to make, but this one had something special about it, possibly the silky-smooth texture and just a hint of something unusual. It was served with hot toast points.

Next came an amuse-bouche of 3 escargots in a parsley purée: different and very tasty. The escargots were followed by a meltingly smooth piece of foie gras, accompanied by a small slice of multi-layered pain d’epices. To add excitement there was a pipette of rose–petal confit to squeeze over the cake (nice homage to the parfumiers of Grasse, that), along with sea salt for the foie gras. We could have stopped there and been happy.

The entrée consisted of two large, delectable scallops in a delicate sauce, accompanied by a coupe of asparagus cream purée. Hooked on the side of the bowl was a spoon holding caviar.

The main course was succulent slices of saddle of lamb and two rib chops, with seasonal vegetables. By then we were purring.

There was a small pre-dessert (I can’t remember exactly what, but puddingish in nature) and then came the desserts, the “surprise du chef.” That day the patissier chose to surprise us with a mini-platter holding a scoop of coffee sorbet, a dark-chocolate open-work "cage" holding whipped cream, and a slice of rich chocolate torte.

Finally came several plates of assorted mignardises.

We didn’t need dinner that evening.

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  • 4 weeks later...

Well we made it to Lou Fasum and we had a wonderful lunch yesterday. The food was as delicious as it was beautiful. Our reception and the friendliness of the staff was equally good. We had the Menu Plasir du Mois à 38 €.

La mise en bouche - this was a tuna tartar under spring flowers gallery_50850_6471_38409.jpgLa mise en bouche - this was a tuna tartar under spring flowers

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gallery_50850_6471_61086.jpgLes truffes en omelette soufflées Crème aux parfums « d’Alba »

gallery_50850_6471_38247.jpgLe saumon bio d’écosse, marinade d’agrume, pétale de fleurs

Rémoulade de betterave crue, copeaux de Poutarge de Mulet

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gallery_50850_6471_20615.jpgLe carré de porc « Noir de Bigorre » rôti sur un lit d’herbes

Petit choux farci de pied de cochon et légumes.

gallery_50850_6471_21447.jpgLe filet de daurade, pommes boulangères à la soupe de roche,

Rouille de Piquillos.

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Notre sélection de maître « Bedot », salade, fruits secs (Sup. 8 euro)

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gallery_50850_6471_29796.jpgLe pré dessert du moment

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gallery_50850_6471_39637.jpgLes millefeuilles à l’huile d’olive vanillée

gallery_50850_6471_37020.jpgLe sablé banane chocolat.

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gallery_50850_6471_24339.jpgMignardises

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