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Babbo Cookbook Octopus Recipe, mistake?


Recoil Rob

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While looking for good octopus recipe for Christmas Eve I came across the one in the Babbo Cookbook (2002) p.66, Barbecued Octopus with Yukon Golds

I read it through 3 times and I see where the octopus is initially cooked in oil and then braised for a couple of hours but there's no mention of it ever being grilled as suggested by the accompanying photo.

Am I missing something? Has anyone tried this recipe?

Thanks, Rob

My problem lies in reconciling my gross habits with my net income.

- Errol Flynn

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I just looked at the book. The first step of the recipe consist in frying the octopus in a hot dutch oven until it has released all its liquid. I assume the color comes from this process.

But then it is supposed to simmer in its own liquid for 1 1/2 to 2 hours... this is the part I don't get... if cooked on all side in a smoking hot dutch oven, how can we get enough liquid to do that?

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My point exactly. Something is missing. I tried to send an email to Babbo in hope of a clarification but they don't give an email address on their website.

Edited by Recoil Rob (log)

My problem lies in reconciling my gross habits with my net income.

- Errol Flynn

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Never cooked with octopus, but looking at the picture and recipe, there has to be a step missing. There is a char on those babies that wouldn't survive braising - and the pre-braising cooking is until the octopus changes color - nothing about getting it to look like that.

Anyone have have a later edition?

Ah, the recipe is also on the website: they don't call it barbecued

Maybe the oven cooking isn't really braising - it's "dutch oven barbecuing".

Edited by tsquare (log)
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The times I've worked with octopus at the restaurants I've been at we braised it, chilled it down, and then grilled it to order to re-heat/char.

While I'm sure this was an oversight in the Babbo cookbook, I can't imagine that it is done any different.

I mean, wouldn't that just be the logical conclusion?

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The times I've worked with octopus at the restaurants I've been at we braised it, chilled it down, and then grilled it to order to re-heat/char.

While I'm sure this was an oversight in the Babbo cookbook, I can't imagine that it is done any different.

I mean, wouldn't that just be the logical conclusion?

You are probably right.

Either way, how bad can it be if we grill the octopus before serving?

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The times I've worked with octopus at the restaurants I've been at we braised it, chilled it down, and then grilled it to order to re-heat/char.

While I'm sure this was an oversight in the Babbo cookbook, I can't imagine that it is done any different.

I mean, wouldn't that just be the logical conclusion?

Seems like it to me, thanks.

My problem lies in reconciling my gross habits with my net income.

- Errol Flynn

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  • 2 weeks later...
Rob, did you cook your octopus? How did it turn out?

I did, I followed the Babbo recipe exactly, cork & all. I braised it a day before and the right before serving I heated it up on the grill and gave it a slight char.

Perfectly tender but still had that chewy texture, the tangerine dressing was a great accent. We all loved it and would make it again.

Rob

My problem lies in reconciling my gross habits with my net income.

- Errol Flynn

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  • 3 months later...

I've done octopus in a method recommended by Harold McGee.

He suggest first giving the octopus a quick blanch in water then into a dry covered dutch oven. The octopus will give off a considerable amount of liquid so in effect it will braise. You braise in the oven until tender. The skin gets that nice gelatinous texture. I went one step further and grilled it just enough to get some char on the outside and some grilled flavor.

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I think others have noted mistakes in some of Batali's books. I found one in Molto Mario. Dunno anything about your octopus, just sayin'.

I found a mistake in another recipe from his book, they're not well edited.

I've done octopus in a method recommended by Harold McGee.

He suggest first giving the octopus a quick blanch in water then into a dry covered dutch oven.  The octopus will give off a considerable amount of liquid so in effect it will braise.  You braise in the oven until tender.  The skin gets that nice gelatinous texture.  I went one step further and grilled it just enough to get some char on the outside and some grilled flavor.

Similar to Batali's but without the blanch.

My problem lies in reconciling my gross habits with my net income.

- Errol Flynn

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I've cooked over 100 octopi so far and thought i would share my method.

while not necessary i do like taking the time to first quickly blanch the octopus (especially if it is previously frozen which most seems to be) in water. to do this i get boiling water hold onto the head and dip it in for ten seconds at a time - usually 2 or 3 times. This has the effect of helping the leg muscles relax and after braising it in the next step will not curl up too much on you.

The Braise - any big ass stainless steel pot will do. wine (red or white), mirepoix, ginger, a little vinegar (the more acid the softer the octopus will be) and the special secret ingredient is mango !! i've heard the cork thing which i would probably guess is a myth but mango does seem to have the effect of helping relax and soften the protein. nearly cover the octopus in liquid, i guess in this respect you could call it more of a poach than a braise. you can use water to help cover it. i would use one bottle of wine per 5lbs of octopus.

Bring to a boil then turn down low and simmer for 30min to an hour usually, to get the texture you want you can continue to squeeze the thickest part of the leg with you fingers. yes it will be hot. don't pussy out. if really not sure, just slice off a piece and taste. once soft enough to your liking. take out and let cool. at this point you could eat the octopus. you could also keep it in the fridge for a few days. i usually slice the head off- toss it in the garbage. keep the legs and make sure you get the vagina like mouth out of the center below the head.

then for a true bbq octopus - get a grill hot, throw some wood chips down, wait until mass amount of smoke occurs, throw it on - get a nice roast on each side then serve warm.

this is like bacon of the sea. delicious.

Edited by fendi_pilot (log)
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