Tabling Ganache

[merlicky]

Recently I have been trying to find ways to speed up production on truffles, and I’ve found that tabling the ganache really helps. Does anyone else do this?

After emulsifying the ganache and adding any flavoring I cover it with plastic wrap. I leave it in the bowl and lay the plastic wrap right on top of the ganache. After letting it sit for awhile (while it is still semi-fluid, but not runny) I swish it out of the bowl and onto my marble. I work it back and forth for a little bit and then scoop it into a pastry bag. If it is still not firm enough to hold shape when piped, I let it sit in the pastry bag for a couple minutes and it firms up. Then, I pipe them out onto a sheet and after they set up a bit I roll them. I let them sit a little longer, after rolling, before I pre-coat and dip.

I used to let most ganaches sit overnight before using them, so this method takes a lot of waiting time away. I can make several small batches (10-25 pcs each) of different flavored truffles and have them done in a few hours (varies depending on qty and how many types of chocolate I need to temper). Now, if only I can find more efficient ways to temper chocolate and dip truffles.

Originally I was worried about what affect tabling would have on my ganache. Some formulations seemed to set up a little firmer than they did without tabling…however, the mouth feel was still about the same – same creaminess. There were a couple recipes that used milk chocolate that I did cut back the amount of chocolate (not only is it quicker, but it also costs less!), but most items worked as is.

The tabling also helps some ganaches that took a long time to set up, like my vanilla bean, caramel, gingerbread, and Grand Marnier. A couple of these I’ve let set for two days before enrobing. But, by tabling them I have been able to complete them on the same day.

[Scout_21]

I table fondants and fudge. I found that for maple candy it gives a much better texture, unless you happen to like larger sized sugar crystals, and it makes it much easier to pour into molds.

Do you use marble or granite?

Cheers

[merlicky]

I use a marble slab.

I got it initially because I wanted to try some fondants and fudges (haven’t got a chance to yet), but decided to try using it for ganaches too.

[Marmalade]

I let my ganache cool to just below 90F or so, and then add a small amount of tempered chocolate and stir it in. This "seeds" the ganache and the chocolate in it. You will find it firms up quickly as tempered chocolate will do and makes for a better product. I have also read that if your ganache is tempered it helps improve shelf life, in Greweling's book.

BTW, some of your formulations are setting up more firm than without tabling because you are indeed helping to crystallize, and in fact, temper, the ganache. When the chocolate in the ganache is properly tempered, it will tend to be more firm than if it were not.

Edited December 11, 2008 by Marmalade (log)

[Scout_21]

I use a marble slab.

I got it initially because I wanted to try some fondants and fudges (haven’t got a chance to yet), but decided to try using it for ganaches too.

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Mind if I ask how large of a slab you find useful? I'm looking at procuring a 24x18x1 slab

Cheers

[Anna N]

I use a marble slab.

I got it initially because I wanted to try some fondants and fudges (haven’t got a chance to yet), but decided to try using it for ganaches too.

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Mind if I ask how large of a slab you find useful? I'm looking at procuring a 24x18x1 slab

Cheers

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I am also on the lookout for a piece of marble of similar size but am hoping to find it only 1/2" thick. I have a piece about half that size now that is 1/2" thick and it's heavy! Unless I had somewhere to permanently set up the marble slab I would think the 1/2" would be a better choice. But others may have different ideas.

[John DePaula]

I let my ganache cool to just below 90F or so, and then add a small amount of tempered chocolate and stir it in. This "seeds" the ganache and the chocolate in it. You will find it firms up quickly as tempered chocolate will do and makes for a better product. I have also read that if your ganache is tempered it helps improve shelf life, in Greweling's book.

BTW, some of your formulations are setting up more firm than without tabling because you are indeed helping to crystallize, and in fact, temper, the ganache. When the chocolate in the ganache is properly tempered, it will tend to be more firm than if it were not.

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I like your method, Marmalade. Do you think a bit of Mycryo would work as well?

[merlicky]

Mind if I ask how large of a slab you find useful?  I'm looking at procuring a 24x18x1 slab

Cheers

I believe that mine is right around 24x18x1. The local granite shop where I bought it had a minimum dollar purchase on their remnant pieces, so this was the smallest size that made sense (any smaller and I would have been paying more per sq. foot).

This size seems to work well for me…it is big enough to work with batch sizes that I make, and, while fairly heavy, it is still light enough to move around. I like to work over it when I’m enrobing also, because it is easy to clean up.

[Kerry Beal]

Granite sink cut outs are usually a good size.

[merlicky]

I let my ganache cool to just below 90F or so, and then add a small amount of tempered chocolate and stir it in. This "seeds" the ganache and the chocolate in it. You will find it firms up quickly as tempered chocolate will do and makes for a better product. I have also read that if your ganache is tempered it helps improve shelf life, in Greweling's book.

BTW, some of your formulations are setting up more firm than without tabling because you are indeed helping to crystallize, and in fact, temper, the ganache. When the chocolate in the ganache is properly tempered, it will tend to be more firm than if it were not.

I actually got the idea for tabling from the Greweling book…I think he uses it for his slabbed ganache, but I thought I’d try it on all of them.

When you add seeds to the ganache, what size chocolate pieces do you use? Is it chopped up into fairly fine pieces?

[John DePaula]

I let my ganache cool to just below 90F or so, and then add a small amount of tempered chocolate and stir it in. This "seeds" the ganache and the chocolate in it. You will find it firms up quickly as tempered chocolate will do and makes for a better product. I have also read that if your ganache is tempered it helps improve shelf life, in Greweling's book.

BTW, some of your formulations are setting up more firm than without tabling because you are indeed helping to crystallize, and in fact, temper, the ganache. When the chocolate in the ganache is properly tempered, it will tend to be more firm than if it were not.

I actually got the idea for tabling from the Greweling book…I think he uses it for his slabbed ganache, but I thought I’d try it on all of them.

When you add seeds to the ganache, what size chocolate pieces do you use? Is it chopped up into fairly fine pieces?

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I think he's saying he uses melted, but tempered, chocolate to seed.

[Marmalade]

Exactly-I am saying melted tempered chocolate. I don't know that mycryo would work given the temperature difference between the ganache and the mycryo. I have never used mycryo, is it a really fine powder that would melt easily? Since it's cocoa butter, its melting point is likely around 91F, 31C, so the ganache would have to be at least that warm.

I use only a tablespoon or so of melted tempered chocolate, stir it in for a good minute or so to distribute, and then pour out and cast the slab...you can't wait too long because if you've done it right, your ganache will start to firm up within minutes and will quickly become unworkable. How firm it is of course, varies from recipe to recipe, but you want to pour out when it's still soft enough to spread to get an even flat surface.

[merlicky]

Thanks!

[Chris Hennes]

I use only a tablespoon or so of melted tempered chocolate, stir it in for a good minute or so to distribute, and then pour out and cast the slab...you can't wait too long because if you've done it right, your ganache will start to firm up within minutes and will quickly become unworkable. How firm it is of course, varies from recipe to recipe, but you want to pour out when it's still soft enough to spread to get an even flat surface.

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How does this result differ from just using tempered chocolate to make the ganache?

[pattyc]

I would think that by tabling your ganache on granite you're also introducing air into your ganache, which will shorten your shelf life considerably. That is one specific reason why we use an immersion blender when emulsifying ganache so as not to introduce air into the mix.

[Marmalade]

I use only a tablespoon or so of melted tempered chocolate, stir it in for a good minute or so to distribute, and then pour out and cast the slab...you can't wait too long because if you've done it right, your ganache will start to firm up within minutes and will quickly become unworkable. How firm it is of course, varies from recipe to recipe, but you want to pour out when it's still soft enough to spread to get an even flat surface.

←

How does this result differ from just using tempered chocolate to make the ganache?

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In concept, it doesn't really differ-you get the same result.

[Chris Hennes]

I actually got the idea for tabling from the Greweling book…I think he uses it for his slabbed ganache, but I thought I’d try it on all of them.

←

How does this result differ from just using tempered chocolate to make the ganache?

In concept, it doesn't really differ-you get the same result.

OK, I am just confused about who is talking about what, I guess! Greweling has you use tempered chocolate in all his ganaches, and I find that many of them set up very quickly without tabling. But he does call for tabling some of his ganaches (for example, the coffee ganache in his "poodle truffles" on pg. 109) even when they call for tempered chocolate. So I guess I am still confused about when and how to table them. Does it always help, or does it depend on the recipe?

[Marmalade]

I am guessing he calls for tabling in some of them to get them to set up faster, that is, to accelerate crystallization...I never table, though I guess I would do it if I were in a real rush to get the ganache to set up.

[John DePaula]

I am guessing he calls for tabling in some of them to get them to set up faster, that is, to accelerate crystallization...I never table, though I guess I would do it if I were in a real rush to get the ganache to set up.

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I never table either. I don't know about you guys, but I always have several tasks going at once so waiting a bit for the ganache to begin to set up is not a problem.

Also, it makes a mess.

Also, my utensils and bowls go through a sanitizing dishwasher. My counter-top or slab is washed with soap/water and chemically sanitized but I really don't want to put such a delicate filling, ganache, on the slab. Just doesn't seem necessary.

[Edward J]

Hmmmm... I wonder....

Has anyone used a food processor to make ganaches?

[Kerry Beal]

Hmmmm... I wonder....

Has anyone used a food processor to make ganaches?

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I make some fillings in the food processor - but so far none of the slab ganaches.

Edited December 13, 2008 by Kerry Beal (log)

[gap]

Hmmmm... I wonder....

Has anyone used a food processor to make ganaches?

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Yep, I've used a food processor for any dark chocolate ganaches where the dark is over 53% (it helps prevent splitting)

[Marmalade]

I've used a cuisinart several times and you get nice emulsion...but it's too small for most of my batches. Can't wait till I can afford the Robocoupe with the vacuum attachment!

[lebowits]

I actually got the idea for tabling from the Greweling book…I think he uses it for his slabbed ganache, but I thought I’d try it on all of them.

←

How does this result differ from just using tempered chocolate to make the ganache?

In concept, it doesn't really differ-you get the same result.

OK, I am just confused about who is talking about what, I guess! Greweling has you use tempered chocolate in all his ganaches, and I find that many of them set up very quickly without tabling. But he does call for tabling some of his ganaches (for example, the coffee ganache in his "poodle truffles" on pg. 109) even when they call for tempered chocolate. So I guess I am still confused about when and how to table them. Does it always help, or does it depend on the recipe?

←

Generally, I find that Greweling has you table ganache when you are going to roll the truffles by hand. This provides for a firmer product to roll. When I'm filling shells, I don't table but use the ganache as soon as it has come down to room temp. Then it crystallizes in the shells before I close them by topping with tempered chocolate.

The only exception to this that I can think of is the Anise Sticks which are piped in straight lines after tabling. You can't wait too long though or else the ganache will be too stiff for the piping bag.