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gingerbeer

Morgan M

10 posts in this topic

I went there recently for a friend's birthday, has anyone else been?

To be honest, while it wasn't bad at all, and it was good, it was slightly disappointing. The dining room was lovely, the amuse bouch delicious, the starters great, but my main course - veal - was so rich and meaty, served with seemingly several unnecessary sauces, foams, etc. The chocolate cherry souffle was also very disappointing - it tasted like uncooked chocolate and eggs.

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I went there earlier in the year, a very assorted party of 6, and I was pleasantly surprised by the quality and presentation of the food, very clean, very simple abnd very tasty. The only thing that let it down was the service, very unevenly paced with a very long wait for the main course. I just wish I lived closer.

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Has anyone been here recently? They seem to retain their Star but I'd be interested in some recent feedback.

Thanks

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Meant to post that shortly after the question I went there and had an excellent meal. Really good quality 1 star cooking. Not quite worth 2 stars but far better than many 1 star places. Excellent value for money - £50 for a tasting menu. The highlight was a vegetarian version of the tasting menu for one of our party.

It's in a strange position (or at least was) - just off the Holloway Rd in Islington, it is local to us but worth the trek if you're not local.

I've been back since and it was as good. I can see why it retains its star year on year. I'm surprised it doesn't get more press. Something to do with its strange location?

They have very recently moved to Barbican - another slightly strange location and am going on NYE so will report back.

Andrew

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Meant to post that shortly after the question I went there and had an excellent meal. Really good quality 1 star cooking. Not quite worth 2 stars but far better than many 1 star places. Excellent value for money - £50 for a tasting menu. The highlight was a vegetarian version of the tasting menu for one of our party.

It's in a strange position (or at least was) - just off the Holloway Rd in Islington, it is local to us but worth the trek if you're not local.

I've been back since and it was as good. I can see why it retains its star year on year. I'm surprised it doesn't get more press. Something to do with its strange location?

They have very recently moved to Barbican - another slightly strange location and am going on NYE so will report back.

Andrew

Sorry to be pedantic Andrew, but it does not have a Michelin star.

However thanks for bringing it to my attention it looks rather good on the website I shall give it a try in the New Year.

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Thanks David. You are (of course!) correct. I was under the impression it did have a star. Whether it had one a few years ago and lost it or it just gives the impression of having one I don't know. I seem to remember it gets 6/10 in the GFG which is pushing a star. I've been there a few times and always been impressed, particularly for vegetarians and VFM. I've had mixed reports of the service.

Andrew

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Went there last night. NYE can be expensive with a poor food offering but they tried to keep to their usual standards with a NYE supplement on teir menu prices. There was no carte just two tasting menus (one vegetarian) both at £84. Matching wines were available at £45.

I started with a Cream of Chestnut & Stilton (this was also the veggie starter). It was good, light flavours and well presented.

Next came a dish that just didn't work. It was described as Rattes Potato and Iranian Caviar. Basically it was half a cold potatao with some lightly whipped cream cheese and a dollop of caviar. I picked off the caviar and after one mouthful of the rest left it. The veggie option was without the caviar but with two spears of asparagus. Once again apart from the asparagus it went uneaten. A fairly horrible dish.

This was followed by a superb Ballotine of Foie gras from les Landes, Sauternes jelly and Toasted Brioche. In fact it came with a fig rather than the advertised sauternes jelly. It was heaven on a plate. The veggie offering was a rather bitterWhite Chicory Tart Tatin, Onion Soubise.

Next up came a Seared Half Lobster Tail, Mojette Beans & Morel Veloute. Good flavours, with a fair number of morels in the sauce. One complaint no spoon to finish the last drops of the veloute. For the vegetarian version there was a rich, creamy and flavoursome Black Truffle Risotto with Thyme Beurre Blanc.

The main course was Pot roasted fillet of Iken Valley Venison, Glazed Apple and Parsnip Puree and Sauce Grand Veneur. The venison was perfectly cooked with good flavour an texture. The apple was a little limp and flavourless and overall a good dish. For the veggies a Beetroot Glazed with Balsamic Vinegar, Goat`s Cheese, Pine nuts Biscuit. This is one of Morgan M's winter favouirtes and it is always a hit and looks stunning.

The pre dessert was a Nougat Glacé with a raspberry sorbet. Both were excellent and worked well together.

For the main dessert there was a choice of a Dark Chocolate Moelleux, 70% Valrhona Guanaja

Milk sorbet, Armagnac drink or Pineapple Fruit Soufflé and Sorbet. We went for one of each. The chocolate was very rich and dark but the milk sorbet (really ice cream) was a perfect set off. The souffle was well executed, amazingly sweat with a pina colada ice cream.

All the dishes were beautifully presented and were well executed (apart from the cold potato dish). The chicory dish was good, just not to either of our taste.

It wasn't cheap, food £84, wine £45 a head, we also had 4 glasses of champagne (a reasonable £38) so with service is came to £333. Over a £100 premium for eating there on NYE. Given extra staff costs fair enough, also good value compared with many places we tried to get into.

Andrew

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Oh interesting to see they've relocated (they have relocated right? Not a branch?). For years Morgan M was the only place a self-respecting foodie could be seen with a vegetarian in polite company. Great little place. I wish them well.

Although if they are relocating it is a big change - a move from being an evening-trade local to a more city (and lunchtime) focused model. In that part of London a more dumbed down bistro deluxe works better than haute (witness the ongoing empire that is the Cafe du Marche). There are a number of places that have tried doing haute cuisine in that area with mixed success. Failures: Maison Novelli, Eastside Inn, Clerkenwell Dining Room (perhaps). Success: Club Gascon. Too early to tell: North Road, Chiswell St Dining Rooms.

It's tough. There's a reason there are very few michelin stars in the City of London.

On the topic of the michelin star I think this has been a long-running saga. Morgan M has always been very open about his ambitions (do they still have the subtle rack of red michelin guides in the dining room). Maybe he has been held back by being too ambitious? Or by the location? I have always consigned it into the category of places-that-should-have-one-star-but-don't (along with Jun Tanaka at Pearl and Barry Tonks at bonds).

Anyhow I wish them luck.

J


More Cookbooks than Sense - my new Cookbook blog!

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Oh interesting to see they've relocated (they have relocated right? Not a branch?).

Not sure. I was under the impression they have re located although a friend mentioned that they thought Islington was still going to open Thurs - Sat.

The website says:

"Building on the success of his award-winning restaurant in Islington, Morgan Meunier is opening on Long Lane by the Barbican. The new two storey restaurant offers his signature ‘affordable haute cuisine’ but with dishes, that whilst meticulously crafted, are modern and simple. The lower ground floor is an accessible and informal bistro, offering entry-level haute cuisine in the form of a new small plates menu."

So sound slike they are trying to cover all bases!

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Morgan M in Barbican has closed. Their website says that they will be reopening at a new venue in the new year.

It doesn't surprise me they have closed, the last time I went there we were the only table in the restaurant and the service was appalling. The shame is the food was really good.

Andrew

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