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Txikito


BryanZ

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Txikito (Chee-key-tow for those not down with the Basque pronunciations)

9th Ave. btwn. 24th and 25th

This is the new tapas/pintxo-type venture from Alexandra Raij, formerly of Tia Pol and El Quinto Pino. I actually had no idea she left those kitchens, but supposedly this is her main project now. The restaurant is located in what I might call an urban strip mall, but inside it's not bad looking. There are, however, these strange granite shelves that jut from the wall right at eye-level at many tables. I believe these are meant to hold the menus, but they were kind of obnoxious if one wanted to make eye contact while conversing with his or her dining companion. Also, as last night was the first truly cold night of the fall, there was a significant draft each time the door opened. A temporary vestibule might be erected to prevent this as it gets even colder.

I wanted to check this place out, since I love, love, love Spanish food but have often felt that most renditions in NYC feel too typically Spanish. I was excited to see if this restaurant would bring some of the less typical Basque dishes I'd enjoyed during my trips to the region. Overall, this place succeeds in doing so. The menu presents items one wouldn't normally find in most Spanish restaurants in this city. The food is Spanish, clearly, but the restaurant is definitely bringing something "new" to the table.

I sampled a few dishes from each of the sections of the menu and enjoyed my meal. My favorite dishes included the pil pil, a very, very strong rendition whose sauce was greedily mopped up by my friend and I; the poached leeks with truffle vinaigrette and chopped eggs; and the two chorizo sandwich-type offerings I had, one in the form of a hash and the other with sofrito and a fried quail's egg. The sandwiches would've been at home on the bar of a pintxo spot in San Sebastian.

Less successful were the sausages in seafood sauce. The sausages were a bit dry and the sauce too thin. I enjoyed the flavor profiles but thought the dish could have used significant refining. I was also on the fence about the trotter, tripe, and tendon dish. Much like the head cheese at El Quinto Pino, this dish is unapologetically offal-y. Similar tripe stews I've had in Spain have been a bit more restrained and balanced. Since the dish cooled off very rapidly as well, eating luke warm, vaguely chewy offal bits was not completely enjoyable. Don't get me wrong, I liked the dish dish and am glad I ordered it, I just feel there are tastier items on the menu.

Service was good, but once the food started to come out, after a bit of a delay, it came out pretty much all at once. I'm not sure if this is intentional or not. I liked the ability to try a bite of this and a bite of that, but many of the hot items, which strangely came out at the beginning of the wave, had degraded a bit. As for value, I spent about $55 with one beer. This was a full meal but not a huge one. I don't see people spending much less, and one could certainly spend more. I didn't think the meal was particularly expensive, but I also kept thinking that I could get more food in Europe for less, even with the exchange rate. Of course comparisons of this nature are so impractical as to render them foolish, but I couldn't quite shake that feeling.

I'll definitely be back though, and it's a great addition to the Chelsea dining scene. I'm excited to take friends, sit at the bar, and show them a bit of Basque cuisine.

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Thanks for the report, Bryan. It is definitely on my list of places to try on the all-too-rare times I'm in the city.

John Sconzo, M.D. aka "docsconz"

"Remember that a very good sardine is always preferable to a not that good lobster."

- Ferran Adria on eGullet 12/16/2004.

Docsconz - Musings on Food and Life

Slow Food Saratoga Region - Co-Founder

Twitter - @docsconz

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I went last night and had the Foie Micuit (homemade foie gras terrine) and the Kroketas (crispy creamy croquettes) which were good.

Then the Arraultza (sofrito, palacios chorizo, quail egg) and the Bocata (warm sandwich of unsmoked bacon, melted cheese) sandwiches came out which were both wonderful--the chorizo a great combo of slightly sweet and salty and the bacon with the Bocata was yummy.

I should have stopped then but was feeling still a little peckish and got the Gambak (flash fried head-on shrimp) and the Txangurra (crabmeat gratin). They were good although the battered shrimp were still shelled, they were quite a battle.

I agree with Bryan that things just kept coming out all at once from the attentive staff.

While they won't replace the Uni Panini in my heart from El Quinto Pino, those 2 sandwiches will bring me back there again.

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I dined at Txikito the other night and have to say I was very impressed. I wrote a full review here: http://always-eating.blogspot.com/2008/11/...-top-tapas.html , but will provide a summary as well.

For the most part every dish was bursting with flavor and they all stood apart from any other tapas I've had in the city. Previously Alex Raij's old stomping grounds, Tia Pol, was in my mind the best in the city, but now I'm leaning towards Txikito. The Arraultza, chorizo, sofrito and fried quail egg, was simply amazing. The richness of the dish was addictive and was so good I ordered it twice. Another favorite was the blood sausage rolls or Morcilla. These tiny little morsels really reminded me of spring rolls, but much much better. I was also a huge fan of the patatas, fries served with spicy cod roe mayo. A departure from the standard patatas bravas, the fries were perfectly crisped, doused with a little paprika and when dipped in the mayo simply delicious.

I ordered a number of dishes, but could easily go 1-2 more times without ordering the same thing twice. I think this is what sets Txikito apart from Tia Pol, the fact that there are so many well executed, tasty dishes that it is easy to avoid ordering the same thing everytime. Not that I won't order the Arraultza again, but I like that I don't have to fall back on a handful of dishes. Congrats to Alex, Eber and the team at Txikito, they have a hit on their hands merely two weeks in.

always-eating.com

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  • 1 year later...

after watching Bourdain's show, we went there with my family yesterday, not overly impressed. Their wine list are too expensive for a humble establishment like this. I feel a little crazy paying 40+ for a bottle of Txikoli, but the wine matches the food well. I ordered a 30 dollar plate of suckling pig, so ordinary. Their Foir is good. Grilled head on shrimp is fresh at least but I can cook equally well. deep fried blood sausage is so-so. Grilled vegetable is good but again i can cook equally well. The The highlight of the meal is their white anchovies, which is cheapest on the menu. Really liked it, but my 5-year-old daughter threw up last night (she is the only one in who had two yesterday), my stomach does not feel very good after cleaned up her mess at 1:30 am, but maybe it was psychological. will only go back to have a drink and a snack but not sit down for a meal.

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