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Fraiche Restaurant, West Van


Paul B

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Okay, so I live in West Van (in the smallest, crappiest house in the city, mind you) so I know the limited eating scene pretty durn well. And while we’re got some great restaurants (Le Regalade, the Fish Market) we also have some clip joints that exploit the area’s spectacular views and rich population. So it was with some trepidation that we accepted an invitation to one of W. Van’s newest restaurants, Fraiche.

Now the first thing about this place is the location. It is at the very tip top of the west British Properties, in an area called “Canterbury,” part of a new development of monster houses (there’s one that’s so large it looks like it belongs in Disneyland) and super-condos. It is perched on the side of the hill overlooking the harbor, Lion’s Gate, and well, most of Western hemisphere.

So the six of us arrived at seven and were delighted by the complimentary valet parking. The entry to the surprisingly small restaurant is dominated by a large First Nation’s sculpture. Appropriately attractive and sycophantic staff took our coats and seated us. We weren’t by the windows, but still had glimpses of the view. Because the room is not staggered, as is, say Salmon House, only those with the very limited number of window tables get the full effect. The rest of the room is very attractive: open kitchen; subdued lights; snazzy high tech features.

The clientele? Old, rich, and white. Our friend J noticed that she was the only Asian person in the room. That doesn’t happen often in Vancouver.

Anyway, our waiter was wired and intense. We got our menus quickly but had to wait too long before our drink orders were taken. The drinks did come quickly however. Drink in hand, I was able to read the menu without having a heart attack. The entrees were well into the $30 range and the appies went up to $20. You can see the menu here, but you’ll notice there are no prices: http://fraicherestaurant.ca/

I wasn’t ordering the wine, thank goodness, because my brief glimpse at the list suggested that bargains were not to be had.

I had a goat cheese asparagus appetizer that was very good. My wife had a nice salad. Nice, not spectacular. We both had the special which was rabbit done two ways – one piece in a cinnamon sauce, the other wrapped in prosciutto. It was very good and the portions were generous. One of my friends demolished his lamb shank while another had the lobster and pasta. Everyone enjoyed their entrees. We did not stay for dessert because it was my wife’s birthday party and we were going back to a friend’s house for cake, so I can’t comment on the sweets. Nor did I get a look at the final bill, but I can assume it was as much as I paid for my first car.

So, final analysis: a nice restaurant but, to my mind, not quite worth the prices they charge, especially if you can’t see the view. And the aging clientele added stuffiness to the proceedings. I prefer Le Regalade for the comfort food and the Fish Market for the casual funkiness.

Your man in WV.

Paul B

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Thanks for the review. Fraiche isn't the type of place that I would usually go to, but I still enjoyed your comments.

Not to sidetrack your review, but would you mind rattling off a few other restaurants in West Van that you feel serve good food. Particularly in the "affordable/value" and "ethnic" categories.

Thanks in advance.

Baker of "impaired" cakes...
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Ah, ethnic food in West Van. Used to be an oxymoron.

My wife and I often grab a quick meal at Amici, on Marine between 17th and 18th. It's an Italian place, not too fancy, that makes great pasta and salads and has good service. The Indian place right across the street has a good brunch. Vip's Kitchen, on Marine just east of 15th, serves regional (I forget which region) Chinese food that's very authentic. The Persian take-out place on Marine near 14th is a bargain. For pub food, the Red Lion in Dundarave. For great French food, of course, Le Regalade. The best seafood is the Fish Market in Dundarave (I'm going there this weekend for my wife's birthday). Be sure to have their squid appetizer. The best sushi is from the little place in Dundarave on the north side of Marine and the little place in Ambleside on the north side of Marine between 14th and 15th -- it's near Johnnie's Gelato, which is tremendous. For fancy dining with a view, we like the Beach House in Dundarave. The food is actually very good as is the service.

So, those are our most commons haunts. Enjoy.

Paul B

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VIP serves very good Swatow Chinese - the restaurant itself is really diving - so it's better for take out, and luckily that particular type of chinese cuisine travels very well - in HK you see swatow places with cooked food on display that is served just a little above room temp. Braised duck served with garlicky vinegar, oyster omlete/pancake, deep fried pomfret, and chicke with deep fried pepper leaves - all nice.

Thanks for the review of Fraiche - I've been curious about it - especially after it's high placing in Enroute's list of top 10 new places in Canada.

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