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Central Marche Restaurant Notes


cinghiale

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A few notes for the intrepid Italy voyagers among you. There's an abundance in Marche of good, solid dining options. Some suggestions:

La Gioconda

Cagli

just off the main square

0721/781549

Web Site

Your basic vaulted-cellar decor, but the food’s been given thought. The antipasti list included pata negra, of all things. After questioning, inspecting, and tasting, I think it was the real deal – and a steal at €10. Maltajati of polenta was a new one for me, and very good, though somewhat over-truffled on account of the time of year and proximity to Acqualagna. The pheasant with beurre blanc was excellent. Companions had, i.a., braised sausage that, despite the dorky tableside de-foiling, was well executed.

La Pianella da Raul

Serra San Quirico

5 km or so above the town

0731/880054

Continues to be just superb. Raul’s foraging porcini this time of year, and I had them served with spelt tagliatelle. Great stuff. Solid mixed antipasto of local/house specialities, with very tasty ricotta. Good brodo. Sizeable grilled meat portions. On my most recent visit, I had the pork shank, and it was enough for two.

Da Maria

Genga

in the Pierosara frazione, high above the Frasassi Caves road

0732/90037

Terrific grilled meats, especially steak. Seasonal, well-composed primi and contorni. Spectacular views of the gorge below. Reasonably priced.

Hostaria Santa Lucia

Jesi

not far from the City Per

0731/64409

Very fresh fish prepared and plated in a manner not often encountered in these parts (e.g., crudo). Not cheap but worth it if you’re jonesing for a sushi-like experience. They also make their own olive oil, which was served along with the bread. It’s sold in the restaurant but is likewise €€€.

La Torre

Numana

just off the town square heading toward the harbor

071/9330747

Web Site

Solidly prepared fish, if tending toward trendy. The piatto unico is a bargain at €18 (includes wine and coffee). The prix fixe offerings are likewise good deals at lunch. The glass-enclosed dining room offers great views of the Adriatic and the Numana harbor.

Il Saraghino

Numana

south of the harbor a few kms

071/7391596

Web Site

The most creative fish restaurant this side of Uliassi. Stylish preparations, elegant table settings. Well-designed starters and primi (I've really enjoyed the tagliatelle and the strozzapreti). Fritto misto is more like tempura and sizeable. Not cheap by any means: Lunch with a bottle of wine runs about €50 pp.

Osteria dei Fiori

Macerata

one street up from the main piazza housing the Sferisterio

0733/260142

Web Site

Simple food excellently prepared in a lovely setting. Panzanella was terrific, as was my “tagliulì” with chickpeas and guanciale. Prices are very, very reasonable.

Antico Furlo

Furlo

down the road from Acqualagna toward the Furlo Pass

0721/700096

Web Site

Didn’t eat here, having left after deciding that the snail’s pace of the lone server wasn’t helping to justify the €90/120 price tag for the two prix fixe lunches offered (it’s also apparently Michelin-listed). Still, I mention it since Mussolini used to summer here. My Blue Guide says Il Duce used to prepare his own tagliatelle and 12-egg omelettes at the former incarnation of the restaurant. The current owners maintain as an artifact, I guess, the adjacent Mussolini Dining Room, preserved in its 1930s state and replete with fascist graffiti (you can also spend a night in Room 3, “The Bedroom where Benito Mussolini Slept”). So, grab a piadina at the bar next door and check out this oddity at low cost. Also, Furlo is located on the Furlo Gorge, on which you can see the profile of Mussolini, carved into the rock by the Forestale in the 1930s. Partially destroyed after WWII, it’s been the back-and-forth subject of restoration efforts. And take the old Flaminia Road (one lane, for a stretch) through the gorge for the spectacular vistas.

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Lead me.

Take me.

Meet me? :laugh::laugh:

I'll second the Il Saranghino rec. We had an outstanding meal there in July.

I also really like Il Clandestino at Monte Conero, Porto Nuovo. It's a shack on the beach, probably closed now...but outstanding. Chic shack.

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Cinghiale e Judith,

Grazie per le segnalazioni! Il Clandestino a Posto Nuovo l'ho già sentito nominare, e sono stato da Cedroni (Madonnina e Anko) l'estate passata. Il Saranghino, invece, non lo conosco. Il menù sul suo sito web è molto interessante, per esempio..

Crudo di scampi, vinaigrette del loro corallo, brounoise di frutti tropicali, finocchi canditi e granita al margarita

Non vedo l'ora di tornare in Italia... :wub:

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I also really like Il Clandestino at Monte Conero, Porto Nuovo.  It's a shack on the beach, probably closed now...but outstanding. Chic shack.

Portonovo is one of my favorite beaches, as it's relatively un-bagno-fied (at least on the Clandestino side of the tower). We usually plomp down right below the restaurant. Funny, but as I've heard mixed things about it, the most I've gotten there is a beer. Being a Cedroni operation, it's also quite pricey. There are other options in Portonovo and its environs -- but of course those wouldn't be sushi. And your right, Judith: they're open only during the season, from mid-May or so through August. Their website is here.
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I also really like Il Clandestino at Monte Conero, Porto Nuovo.  It's a shack on the beach, probably closed now...but outstanding. Chic shack.

Portonovo is one of my favorite beaches, as it's relatively un-bagno-fied (at least on the Clandestino side of the tower). We usually plomp down right below the restaurant. Funny, but as I've heard mixed things about it, the most I've gotten there is a beer. Being a Cedroni operation, it's also quite pricey. There are other options in Portonovo and its environs -- but of course those wouldn't be sushi. And your right, Judith: they're open only during the season, from mid-May or so through August. Their website is here.

Most of what I've read has been mixed, too. But I liked (didn't love) the other Cedroni places.

Oh, and I meant Aniko, not Anko, above! :cool:

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I have to disagree on the Clandestino - sure it is the chic place to go but an 8 buck can of tuna (which they thoughtfully open at your table) and a couple slices of bread in a paper bag just doesn't work for me.

The only reason I think they can get away with serving cans of tuna is because the owner is "fashion" so anything he does must be fashionble.

Therefore if you go - skip the canned meats (even if they come from organically grown special whooptydoo Spanish waters) and go straight for the oysters.

The owners of Il Saraghino are opening a new restaurant at the marina dorica (harbour) in Ancona next month. Apparently it will be a toned down version of Saraghino. I imagine that it will be great food.

One more place to add (open from easter to October only) is

ristorante Il Conerello just outside of Sirolo- certainly the best hand made pasta in the world. The menu is simple - tagliatelli or a stuffed pasta with either ragù or tomato sauce - second course is some type of grilled meat or something like rabbit alla cacciatora - salad and roasted tomatos. Wine is red or white (go for the red) - You order and your food is out in usually less than 10 minutes so great for hungry people. It is frequented by all types of people from the local volunteer fire department to internationally known fashionistas and stars.

Edited by kellytree (log)
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Hi Kelley!! :smile:

Full disclosure re Il Clandestino: it was a gorgeous summer night, a full moon rising, Jeff's birthday, romance in the air and we had the tasting menu. No canned tuna. In fact, the tuna pictured had urchin sandwiched in between and it was luscious. They were ambitious in their flavor and texture pairings and almost everything worked perfectly. The only trying-to-hard moment was the house apperitivo, some sort of lemongrass tea with tapioca pearls, a shot of nitrogen....I can't remember why. It was lame, but overall it was a truly delicious meal. Maybe we just got lucky.

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However, the place that we can't wait to go back to is Anna's, also at Porto Nuovo. If you go to the Napolean fort hotel...can't remember the name but it's that fancy dancy hotel, and go to the left side. It's far funkier, fishing boats, more locals...and a bunch of fish restaurants. Anna's mussels are to die for....huge chunks of lemon and fennel...we fought over them and licked the plate clean. It's our favorite beach by far...next summer, there should be an eG party.

gallery_14010_5452_33718.jpg

And we got a local tip...but you have to swim to the restaurant. Seriously. Or take a boat. We're bringing our fins next time. :laugh:

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Anna's mussels are to die for
I haven't eaten at Anna's, but I have had Portonovo moscioli at da Gino, across from the Ancona train station. They are truly amazing, allegedly wild -- sumptuous and flavorful. Everytime I remark how good they are, the owner produces a flyer from the cooperative, which I can't seem to locate online. I found instead Petrini's report for Slow Food.
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Anna's mussels are to die for
I haven't eaten at Anna's, but I have had Portonovo moscioli at da Gino, across from the Ancona train station. They are truly amazing, allegedly wild -- sumptuous and flavorful. Everytime I remark how good they are, the owner produces a flyer from the cooperative, which I can't seem to locate online. I found instead Petrini's report for Slow Food.

gallery_14010_5452_21762.jpg

Here you go....Musciolo Men at the beach.

We watched them go out, with fins and a mesh bag, then they would come back and roll them back and forth over the rocks breaking off all the extra bits and pieces. It made the most lovely sound. I'm totally with you on musciolo...they are more flavorful than any mussel I've ever tasted.

That Petrini article was from '05, I wonder if it's still an active Presidum. I'm glad someone is looking out for those little guys.

Edit because I can barely type and I really cannot proofread.

Edited by hathor (log)
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  • 3 weeks later...

For those of you with a print subscription to the New Yorker, this week's food issue features a piece by Mimi Sheraton on brodetto, with a focus on Le Marche. She's escorted to the Ancona fish market by Gianni Giacani, the amiable owner of Hostaria Santa Lucia, mentioned upthread. For those of you forced to deal with the distinctly problematic digital version of the magazine, try here. Good luck. I'm on dialup and was only able to enlarge to a readable size the first two pages and can only surmise that there is good information in there. If anyone's willing to fax me a photocopy (I have a U.S. fax number), I'd greatly appreciate it.

ETA: Seems Mimi dined at da Dario in Porto Recanati. In July, I ate next door at Le Voci del Mare on a tip from a Senigallian who installs restaurant kitchens for a living. LVdM is not as pricey as Dario, which counts as more "in" though has "excellent" brodetto, according to my friend. Also, locals are reputed to prefer the fish at lVdM. We were advised to try the guazetto, a stew version of the brodetto. We were four and ordered for two. Jeez Louise -- two huge padelle (think paella pan), one with the fish (as described in the article -- triglia, san pietro, monkfish, etc., plus the very ugly testa, which I think is gurnard) and a second with the shell fish. All in a hearty broth into which you dunk bread. Those following Sheraton's moshus might be advised to turn right at Dario (but don't think of parking in their little parcheggio!)

Edited by cinghiale (log)
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  • 10 months later...

Mimi's still milking Marche: Meals Worth a Cab Ride. We had dinner at Raul last week with some U.S. visitors, and he proudly handed them the article. I haven't eaten at Symposium yet, but it's been on my to-do list.

A couple of other recommendations:

In Ancona: La Terrazza, in the ferry terminal. Good fish (it's right next to docks where the fishermen put in), nice views of the Adriatic, reasonable prices, friendly service.

In Senigallia: Il Giallo Sole, northern beach side of the center. It's our friend Vicky's bagno, and all lunches there this summer were excellent. Vicky's compagno works in the Senigallia restaurant business and it's his go-to place as well. Exceedingly fresh fish, always flawlessly executed. We usually ate hot and cold antipasti (fish-heavy) with each meal, and it's killer. Not sure of winter hours, but likely anyone venturing to Senigallia outside of summer will hit Uliassi or Madonnina del Pescatore instead.

In Camerino: La Saporita and Re, both in the center, both pizzerie. In both places, the pizza is made in sheet pans and served as squares. Camerino is a (beautiful) university town, and the students flock to both. I'm a Re fan; Kate prefers Saporita. So, we always do both. If you're coming into Marche from Umbria and take the road from Foligno toward Macerata, Camerino's not too far off and worth a stop for lunch.

.

Edited by cinghiale (log)
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  • 3 weeks later...

Last weekend we went to Tavoleto (about 10 miles west of Pesaro)

- Ristorante di Renata -

Good food

"cozy" - fireplace - plastic prosciutto hanging over the fireplace - fish tank and paraket (or whatever bird it was)

Maurizio - the owner kindly tells you that "he will take care of what you eat tonight" ... as in, you get what we got.

The food was lovely.

Homemade. Simple. A few twists on the classics without ruining them.

And they have rooms upstairs (it's like sleeping in a great-grandmothers bedroom with 35 year old blankets - a 35 year old little tv - and some knick-knicks from a trip to Venice) --

Dinner and room for 2 = 100 euro

It's a great place to go if you are in the area and looking for something "authentic".

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