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2009 French Food Guides - GM's, Lebey, Pudlos


John Talbott
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This is the first of I'm sure many comments on the new Food Guides rolling out over the next six months.

Today's Figaro + Goumandises de Philippe announced that the new 2009 Gault Millau 2009 France would be out Monday and Figaro had a little blurb saying that their chef of the year was Mauro Colagreco of Mirazur in Menton, a good choice despite the unhappy Marc Veyrat's comical position remaining a 20/20.

John Talbott

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Don't forget egulleter's Meg's contribution .... :biggrin:

Meg is Le Blageur , by the way, and has written the web (and soon to be paper edition) of Black Book magazine's new "Jet Set" guides. The reviews are of bars, restaurants and hotels, the text is to the point, snappy and tongue in chic.

Anti-alcoholics are unfortunates in the grip of water, that terrible poison, so corrosive that out of all substances it has been chosen for washing and scouring, and a drop of water added to a clear liquid like Absinthe, muddles it." ALFRED JARRY

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They say Senderens and Lasserre are out of the institutions category. As I don't want to buy the guide (I regretted doing it every time I did it except in 2000), can anyone tell me how they are rated?

Not me Julot, I've expended my last Euro in G/M's direction unless someone donates one my way (hint hint); a wonderful train from the 1960's wrecked on the tracks.

John Talbott

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  • 3 weeks later...

Web Radio Du Gout has announced that the Lebey 2009 elevated Michel Rostang to one of the best in Paris with three black Tour Eiffels; Guy Savoy lost one; three went from one to two – L'Atelier de Joël Robuchon, L'Angle du Faubourg, + Le Passiflore; with L'Arpège, Le Cinq + Pierre Gagnaire staying in the lead with three red towers. The Lebey 2009 has rated 638 places, 54 of them new. Albin Michel éd - 470 pages - 15,90 euros.

They also summarized Pudlo Paris’s results; awarding chef of the year to Flora Mikula of Les Saveurs de Flora; l'Ami Jean, resto of the year; Afaria, bistrot of the year; best price-quality Koba's Bistro; come back kid Ghislaine Arabian of the Petites Sorcières; best foreign table – Guilo Guilo. 18,50 euros. Éditions Michel Lafon.

John Talbott

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Don't forget the upcoming release of the 2009 Le Fooding guide, released on November 13th at newsstands, and for those hardy souls ready to wait in line, at the Colette boutique tomorrow.....

Anti-alcoholics are unfortunates in the grip of water, that terrible poison, so corrosive that out of all substances it has been chosen for washing and scouring, and a drop of water added to a clear liquid like Absinthe, muddles it." ALFRED JARRY

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Flora is a bit surprising.....

Anti-alcoholics are unfortunates in the grip of water, that terrible poison, so corrosive that out of all substances it has been chosen for washing and scouring, and a drop of water added to a clear liquid like Absinthe, muddles it." ALFRED JARRY

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I was the first one to buy the new Le Fooding guide 2009 at the boutique Colette this morning - visibly, the only other people lining up were those waiting for some new trendy trainers....... The Colette release seemed so exclusive that it wasn't even on the shelves, and the shop assistant had to go and look in the storage room to find it. The format is interesting, and mimics the magazine MONOCLE in both size, paper choice and typeface, and includes 800 restaurants in both Paris and the rest of France. It goes on general public sale the 13th of November.

Edited by fresh_a (log)

Anti-alcoholics are unfortunates in the grip of water, that terrible poison, so corrosive that out of all substances it has been chosen for washing and scouring, and a drop of water added to a clear liquid like Absinthe, muddles it." ALFRED JARRY

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The 2009 Bottin has appeared with its supreme distinction (4 stars) going to Le Cinq + Régis Marcon-Clos des Cimes as well as promoting L’Oasis to three stars.  It rates 800 places, of which 200 are new.  30 euros.

This guide is only getting better. Some reviews in particular, e.g. Senderens, Loiseau, Roellinger, Ledoyen are particularly fascinating to read and insightful :wink:

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Ah! So you've read it!

Anti-alcoholics are unfortunates in the grip of water, that terrible poison, so corrosive that out of all substances it has been chosen for washing and scouring, and a drop of water added to a clear liquid like Absinthe, muddles it." ALFRED JARRY

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I was the first one to buy the new Le Fooding guide 2009 at the boutique Colette this morning - visibly, the only other people lining up were those waiting for some new trendy trainers....... The Colette release seemed so exclusive that it wasn't even on the shelves, and the shop assistant had to go and look in the storage room to find it. The format is interesting, and mimics the magazine MONOCLE in both size, paper choice and typeface, and includes 800 restaurants in both Paris and the rest of France. It goes on general public sale the 13th of November.

Word is slowly trickling out about its contents. Web Radio du Gout notes that it has the "top 30 des restaurants" that cost less than 30 euros, among which are La Cantine du Troquet + Lao Lane Xang 1 et 2 in Paris.

John Talbott

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Wednesday-Thursday,Jean Claude Ribaut in Le Monde wrote an article that summarized the revelations of several other guides:

Le Champérard highlighting Les Crayères, La Fourchette des ducs, Le Meurice + Sa.Qua.Na but omitting Marc Veyrat, rated 20/20 by GaultMillau.

Le Bottin gourmand, featuring Thierry Marx and Jean-Paul Barbier of Lion d'or.

John Talbott

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Don't forget the upcoming release of the 2009 Le Fooding guide,

I apologize for not reporting more fully on the highlights of the new Le Fooding: in brief regarding Paris: Guilo Guilo was heralded as "the taste of the era" and their list of the other twenty best Paris places includes ("Le, la, l'" assumed):

Pre Verre

21

Comptoir du Relais

Fogon

Ze

Ami Jean

Gaya

Violin

Stella Maris

Spring

Chateaubriand

Gazetta

Avant Gout

Cerisaie

Regalade

Beurre Noisette

Grand Pan

Astrance

Bigarrade

Magnolias

John Talbott

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Looks pretty solid. Don't know anyone who's really eaten well at Gazetta though..

Anti-alcoholics are unfortunates in the grip of water, that terrible poison, so corrosive that out of all substances it has been chosen for washing and scouring, and a drop of water added to a clear liquid like Absinthe, muddles it." ALFRED JARRY

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  • 2 months later...

L’Internaute announced Pudlo’s awards in the "Pudlo Paris Bistrots et Brasseries" as:

Table d’Eugene – Discovery of the Year

Cantine du Troquet – Annex of the Year

Café Tournon – Wine bistro of the Year

Senderens – Top Gastro

L’Evasion – Top Quality Bistro

Gérard Vié, les Terrines - Reconversion of the Year

Jean-Paul Arabian, le Caméléon – Best welcome

Le Beaujolais d’Auteil – Best local Bistrot

Le Gorgeon – Most Parisian in the suburbs

And Web Radio du Gout announced that Lebey awarded Le Beaujolais d'Auteuil and its chef Nicolas Duquesnoy the Best Paris Bistro of 2009.

John Talbott

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Le Beaujolais d'Auteuil and its chef Nicolas Duquesnoy the Best Paris Bistro of 2009.

Do you know if there is a relation between the fore-mentioned young Nicolas Duquesnoy and the not so young Jean-Paul Duquesnoy who had the long defunct 2-star restaurant "Le Duquesnoy"on Ave. Bosquet?

Edited by Laidback (log)
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Le Beaujolais d'Auteuil and its chef Nicolas Duquesnoy the Best Paris Bistro of 2009.

Do you know if there is a relation between the fore-mentioned young Nicolas Duquesnoy and the not so young Jean-Paul Duquesnoy who had the long defunct 2-star restaurant "Le Duquesnoy"on Ave. Bosquet?

No but it must be in the DNA. I must confess that once again though I'm the sole dissenting vote about it.

John Talbott

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Le Beaujolais d'Auteuil and its chef Nicolas Duquesnoy the Best Paris Bistro of 2009.

Do you know if there is a relation between the fore-mentioned young Nicolas Duquesnoy and the not so young Jean-Paul Duquesnoy who had the long defunct 2-star restaurant "Le Duquesnoy"on Ave. Bosquet?

No but it must be in the DNA. I must confess that once again though I'm the sole dissenting vote about it.

My how I relate as I have been verbally stoned for not finding Chez l'Ami Jean to be the greatest thing since sliced bread. My first trial was shortly after Jego took over so I waited awhile and after seeing universal acclaim I tried it again with Ms. L. and 2 sophisticated Parisiennes and found it still less than exemplary, just more jam-packed.

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