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Restaurants near Pommard/Beaune


ann

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We're spending the first week of October in Pommard, and I've read several negative reports lately about Ma Cuisine in Beaune -- and glowing reports about La Ciboulette (a Michelin Bib Gourmand), Le Caveau des Arches (perhaps a bit touristy??), and Le P'tit Paradis, all in Beaune. Can anyone report on recent experiences at any of these? I'd also like to know if anyone has been to La Garaudiere, another Bib Gourmand, in Levernois, or Les Roches in Saint-Romain -- or any other small, reasonably-priced local-style restaurant/bistro in the area. BTW, these are recommendations from web sites devoted mostly to wine, from people who live in the area. Thanks for the help.

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The negative reports you've read about Ma Cuisine are the result of people expecting a 'gourmet' type restaurant. It's no such thing, but offers properly cooked burgundian food and an excellent wine list at fair prices without any of the excesses or subservience of the michelin brigade. i wish there were some restaurants like it in London-it does of course require a minimum standard of gastronomic and behavioural literacy of its customers, and I have witnessed some sad scenes of incomprehension when this has not been forthcoming.

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Thanks for the clarification, Muichoi. I'm not looking for a "gourmet" experience -- if I wanted that, we'd go to Lameloise. But the prospect of well-prepared regional food and a fairly-priced wine list sounds perfect. Do you have any other favorites in/near Beaune?

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Ann,

I go to Beaune a LOT on business and love it. As Muichoi says, don't expect a high-end luxury experience at Ma Cuisine. It's well-done Burgundian food in a rustic setting with no pretension, and a somewhat wonderful wine list (that's been picked over by me, sorry...). If you go there hoping for fine linens and amazing service, you're at the wrong place.

Here's a quick list of places I've been to:

-Le Jardin des Ramparts= Michelin-starred, amazing food, excellent wine service but you'll pay for the experience. Definitely worth it.

-Le Caveau des Arches= another Michelin-starred place, but slightly cheaper than Jardin. Also excellent.

-Le Gourmandin= very good food, a small bistrot on Place Carnot, decent prices and nice wine list.

-Les Tontons= near Place Madeleine, tiny bistrot with good food, great prices and nice wines.

-Sushi Kai= just outside the North Gate, this tiny but beautifully minimalist sushi joint serves very fresh fish in a refined atmosphere.

-La Part des Anges= wine bar on Rue d'Alsace, with a Michelin-trained chef in a cool NYC/Paris decor. Sit in back under the glass roof, it's real cool and the servers are very nice. Delicious food.

-La Table d'Oliver Leflaive= at the winery itself, supposedly a great lunch but I never hit it.

-Le Montrachet= in Puligny Montrachet, this Michelin-starred restaurant offers delicious if old-style dishes in a very rarified atmosphere (too stuffy for me). Wine list is extraordinary, and food fantastic.

-Ma Cuisine= Off of Place Carnot also, great home-style cooking with an amazing list to match it.

Also, on the northeast side of the Place Carnot is the restaurant of l'Hotel de Beaune, the Bistrot de l'Hotel. This is more high-end and more expensive but has an amazing wine list and stunning food, the menu changes pretty much daily. If it's nice enough, sit in the courtyard. I reviewed it on my blog HERE.

La Ciboulette is cozy and has very good food and the waiters can be hilarious. As for Levernois, I've never been but I've been hearing not-so-good reports, that the quality's dropped a lot in the past 1-2 years for some reason.

That's what I can remember off the top of my head.

Lastly, if you decide to cook or shop in the markets in Burgundy, HERE are some pics to make you drool.

Hope this helps,

Cheers! :cool:

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Great photos of the market, Vinotas! Of course we plan to cook some - that's why we always rent apartments with kitchens, like this one in Pommard. And thanks for the restaurant list with comments. BTW, the place I mentioned in Levernois is not the more famous Relais et Chateaux property there, which might be the one you're thinking about. Have you been to Les Tontons enough to know if it's fairly consistent -- I've read really varied comments about it? Thanks again!

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This message won't help you except in terms of spirit. I was last in Beaune perhaps 20 years ago - and our favorite meal was at a one knife and fork restaurant a bit out of town (whose name I obviously can't recall - although I remember what the place looked like - including the parking lot). It sat about 60 people - was all locals except for us - and we had a great early afternoon Sunday supper - the kind of meal people have after church on Sunday. Great not because of the food - which was "good eats". But because it was fun and relaxed - and all the locals fought with one another about which things we definitely had to try (which wine was best - which cheese was best - etc.). This place may not exist anymore (maybe it does) - but - apart from fine dining - it's the kind of place I'd try to find - or stumble on - if I were in the smaller cities and towns of France. Robyn

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Great photos of the market, Vinotas!  Of course we plan to cook some - that's why we always rent apartments with kitchens, like this one in Pommard.  And thanks for the restaurant list with comments.  BTW, the place I mentioned in Levernois is not the more famous Relais et Chateaux property there, which might be the one you're thinking about.  Have you been to Les Tontons enough to know if it's fairly consistent -- I've read really varied comments about it? Thanks again!

Ann, I liked Les Tontons but I wasn't overly impressed, I found it good but not great. Like you I rent apartments when I'm there and I prefer Le Gourmandin or Ma Cuisine, both of which I find are better and more consistent.

Damn, now I'm Beaune-sick... Thank God I'll be there in late October. :wink:

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Jardin des Remparts is nice, expecially in Summer when you can eat in the garden. Modern food, traditional ingredients, godd service, nice interior. Avoid the cheap lunch menu.

Le Charlemagne is my favorite around Beaune, whitty Asian-influenced cross-over cuisine, a solid star.

Avoid Le Benaton - one of the worst meals so far. Service was arrogant and simply incompetent. We did not get amuse after we told them not to drink wine because we had to drive...

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Ann,

-Le Montrachet= in Puligny Montrachet, this Michelin-starred restaurant offers delicious if old-style dishes in a very rarified atmosphere (too stuffy for me). Wine list is extraordinary, and food fantastic.

Not certain it is Michelin starred. I liked it and didn't find it stiffy - but we did sit on the terrace on a sunny lunctime.

La Table d'Oliver Leflaive is just around the corner and a good spot for tasting. The food does look good, a rustic menu that goes with the wine tasting - we simply tasted. Lots of coach tours though.

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Here is my list of the great tables of Beaune.

Le Benaton. Not a friendly place, but a fantastically gifted chef makes it our favourite in Burgundy.

Lervernois has a new starred chef and we have recently had two excellent lunches there. Very friendly proprietor.

Jardin des Remparts has confused but friendly service and a chef who likes unusual, even wild, combinations. Generous, but not for the staid palate.

Loiseau des Vignes is quite formal, yet pleasant and the food is quite classic. Our two lunches have each featured at least one truly exceptional dish.

Via Mokis, from David Zuddas, is brand new and very informal. Atelier style with a surprise tasting menu.

Tontons has very basic service, but an excellent kitchen. Big flavours here.

L'Ecusson has very good chef, with particularly good desserts. The place seemed a bit dead, but we will go back soon.

For us foodies, there was not much happening on the plate at Ma Cuisine. Too ordinary for us to go back.

Further out, the starred Charlemagne has a Japanese fusion approach. We didn't like the service, but found the food very interesting.

Lameloise had slightly inept service, but excellent and very generous cooking.

Edited by Steve Martin (log)
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