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Perbacco

ulterior epicure

By ulterior epicure
in New York: Dining

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ulterior epicure

ulterior epicure

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Posted

Frank Bruni gives Perbacco 2 stars, and together with Pete Wells talks about it as if it's a newish discovery. I can't say that I know exactly when or how I first heard of Perbacco, but I've known about it's existence for years.

“Watermelon - it’s a good fruit. You eat, you drink, you wash your face.”

Italian tenor Enrico Caruso (1873-1921)

ulteriorepicure.com

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Nathan

Nathan

Posted
Posted
Frank Bruni gives Perbacco 2 stars, and together with Pete Wells talks about it as if it's a newish discovery.  I can't say that I know exactly when or how I first heard of Perbacco, but I've known about it's existence for years.

well, yes and no.

the restaurant has been open for years. but it was just another cookie-cutter mediocre EV Italian restaurant.

the young Italian chef who has radically revised the menu (and is doing some avant garde stuff) has only been there for a few months (Grub Street first spread the word).

so the Perbacco you heard about is not the Perbacco Bruni was reviewing.

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ulterior epicure

ulterior epicure

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well, yes and no.

the restaurant has been open for years.  but it was just another cookie-cutter mediocre EV Italian restaurant.

the young Italian chef who has radically revised the menu (and is doing some avant garde stuff) has only been there for a few months (Grub Street first spread the word).

so the Perbacco you heard about is not the Perbacco Bruni was reviewing.

And probably why I never had much interest in it until now.

“Watermelon - it’s a good fruit. You eat, you drink, you wash your face.”

Italian tenor Enrico Caruso (1873-1921)

ulteriorepicure.com

My flickr account

ulteriorepicure@gmail.com

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daisy17

daisy17

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Posted
When did the new chef arrive?  I went there towards the end of May and found the food fine enough.  It wasn't anything I'd rave about though.

We went there, right? I completely agree - it was fine, but not more than that. And we tried a lot of different dishes. I think it said the new chef has been there for 4 months, which would include that visit . . .

Off night? We didn't order well? The review surprised me.

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docsconz

docsconz

Posted
Posted
When did the new chef arrive?  I went there towards the end of May and found the food fine enough.  It wasn't anything I'd rave about though.

We went there, right? I completely agree - it was fine, but not more than that. And we tried a lot of different dishes. I think it said the new chef has been there for 4 months, which would include that visit . . .

Off night? We didn't order well? The review surprised me.

I do not know if the food or the chef is good or not, but he would have been almost brand new to that restaurant when you went and may not have made any changes at that time. Then again, maybe he had. I suspect, though, that the restaurant has probably changed somewhat since you were there.

John Sconzo, M.D. aka "docsconz"

"Remember that a very good sardine is always preferable to a not that good lobster."

- Ferran Adria on eGullet 12/16/2004.

Docsconz - Musings on Food and Life

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spaetzle_maker

spaetzle_maker

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When did the new chef arrive?  I went there towards the end of May and found the food fine enough.  It wasn't anything I'd rave about though.

We went there, right? I completely agree - it was fine, but not more than that. And we tried a lot of different dishes. I think it said the new chef has been there for 4 months, which would include that visit . . .

Off night? We didn't order well? The review surprised me.

Yes! That's exactly the visit that I was thinking of. It was towards the end of May, or in early June. We ordered a variety of dishes - I don't recall anything that evoked a "WD-50 meets Lupa" impression. Perhaps these dishes hadn't yet been introduced on the menu? Most of what we ordered was traditional trattoria style food - I remember the pizza being slightly disappointing and the pastas were good, but I didn't find them to be as good as Lupa.

Well, I look forward to hearing more impressions about Perbacco and some more menu recommendations.

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daisy17

daisy17

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He would have been there for about a month, it was the end of May. No idea if he'd changed the menu by then. Would try it again now that I've read the review, but not if Frank hadn't said such glowing things.

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jimk

jimk

Posted
Posted
When did the new chef arrive?  I went there towards the end of May and found the food fine enough.  It wasn't anything I'd rave about though.

We went there, right? I completely agree - it was fine, but not more than that. And we tried a lot of different dishes. I think it said the new chef has been there for 4 months, which would include that visit . . .

Off night? We didn't order well? The review surprised me.

Yes! That's exactly the visit that I was thinking of. It was towards the end of May, or in early June. We ordered a variety of dishes - I don't recall anything that evoked a "WD-50 meets Lupa" impression. Perhaps these dishes hadn't yet been introduced on the menu? Most of what we ordered was traditional trattoria style food - I remember the pizza being slightly disappointing and the pastas were good, but I didn't find them to be as good as Lupa.

Well, I look forward to hearing more impressions about Perbacco and some more menu recommendations.

I believe Bruni said - and this might have been in the podcast not the review - that there's just a portion of the menu doing the avant garde stuff.

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adrman

adrman

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I've been going there since it first opened. Some of the menu remains unchanged. Lately I find myself ordering from the daily specials, which are now presented verbally instead of a printed insert to the menu.

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Nathan

Nathan

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the wine list is impressive for such a small place. excellent range by the glass (including a marvelously funky Tocai).

service was good. packed at 10 on Friday night.

my "bloody mary" soup with vodka gelatin was quite flavorful. unfortunately, my friend's stuffed zucchini with basil sorbet was lacking in flavor. his lamb secondi was quite good...as was my pork belly. both secondi were accompanied by excellent vegetables....that really seems to be an emphasis here.

its contemporary mid-range Italian urban restaurant food. traditional but with some "modern" touches. I've eaten at a number of places like this in Italy.

prices are exceptional (in a good way)

Edited by Nathan (log)
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