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Five wines


Florida Jim

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2006 Weil, Riesling Estate Trocken:

First glass isn’t giving much; second glass is much better – pure floral and citrus aromas, nice fruit, spice and tonic water flavors and good length. Needs a quick decant and is a charming starter wine or accompaniment to lighter fare. I buy a case of this yearly.

2002 Alain Demon, Côte Roannaise Réserve La Perrière:

Concentrated, integrated but straight-forward gamay; a little more earthy than Beaujolais, a little less bright, as well. Good wine but not worth the wait.

2004 Tenuta delle Terre Nere, Etna Rosso Calderara Sottana:

A distinct milk chocolate note here with a light cherry note, some earthen tones and a bit of brown sugar (without the sweetness of sugar); elegant in the mouth with flavors that follow the nose, light-weight, clean and integrated; medium length. Nerello mascalese, often thought of us as a blending grape that provides alcohol and color, can also make wine that tastes delicious, doesn’t go over 14% and vints out translucent – and here it is. Sort of pinot noir-esque in texture and weight. Pretty stuff.

2001 Sella, Lessona:

Characteristic nebbiolo smells and flavors in a medium to lightweight package, intense, layered, balanced and long. The acidity here is the perfect foil for food and the flavors are mostly in the earthy spectrum. $20 ay Astor right now.

2004 Dom. Leroy, Bourgogne:

Very primary and a bit stemmy – but there’s more to this; density, concentration, focus – all in a latent mode. Not time to drink this but it still went well with pasta in a mushroom sauce – mostly because of its elegance and weight. Deserves future consideration.

Best, Jim

www.CowanCellars.com

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