Favorite restaurants in Sarlat

[tony h]

From ja_rtw on another topic:

Quote

Any suggestions for great restaurants in Sarlat? We will be staying around 3 nights. Will have a car in Sarlat, so will be able to drive around to surrounding areas.

Not really looking for Michelin restaurants (although... exceptions could be made) moreso would love recommendations on more casual, affordable restaurants with local specialties 

Many thanks!

Had a superb lunch at Vieux Logis in Tremolat near Sarlat. Each course had 3 separate small dishes with about 4 or 5 courses to the meal and all for something like 34 euro. There's no choice but the food was so good it really wasn't a problem. Lovely restaurant.

Can;t say the same for Le manior de bellerive in nearby Buisson-de-caduin. Lovely room but awkward menu. we asked for a change to one of the courses on one of the tasting menus and then got into a fairly heated debate as to why they were going to charge full ALC price for a very minor substitution. Disgusted with their attitude we walked out.

Michel Trama's got a staggering beautiful place in puymirol - but its a good 2 hour drive from sarlat. puymirol itself is a bit crappy but the food was seriously good. so, if you fancy a pilgrimage...

cheers

Tony

[Paul Kondeff]

It has been three years since we were in Sarlat. I have fond memories of two meals where the food stood out.

Sunday lunch in Roque-Gagneac at Belle Etoile on the terrace over looking the Dordogne was wonderful. The setting and the food were more then worth the 85 euros for two menus, 2 glasses of Champagne, a half bottle of wine plus the 15 minute drive from Sarlat.

Our best dinner in Sarlat was at Le Relais de Poste. We wouldn't have found the restaurant if not for a recommendation of the shop keeper at Tout Tissue. It is located on the tiny Impasse Vielle Poste. The dining room is the stone walled grand room of a centuries old house. They had several menus to choose from with the most expensive in the mid 30 euro range.

We are returning to Sarlat this autumn and plan on visiting both of these restaurants again. There is a new Michelin 1* in Sarlat this year, Le Grand Bleu. You can find it's website from the link given in Via Michelin website. It has a 29 euro menu and if you don't add too many items with supplements it looks that it can be reasonable. If you do try it post back and let everyone know how it is.

After rereading your original post, ja_rtw, I want to add Guelle et Gosier on rue de La Salamandre. The food is not up to the other two but for about 50 euros for 2 menus plus wine it is quite acceptable. They have a little terrace and on a warm evening with the twilight shinning off Sarlat's slate roofs the food will seem better than it is, which is pretty good. It is up the hill from more touristy area so it does seems 'less touristy'.

tony h, thank you for your recommendation of Vieux Logis. We will be in Sarlat for two weeks so a drive along the Dordogne to Tremolat may be in order.

Edited May 12, 2008 by Paul Kondeff (log)

[ja_rtw]

Fabulous, thanks for everyone's input! I can't wait to go

Should I be planning to make reservations in advance for any of the restaurants mentioned?

I shall keep the puymirol suggestion in mind, as we will be driving out in that direction towards Bayonne on the last day.

Many thanks on the Relais de Poste information!! I will do my best to find my way there

Most likely we will spend our evenings in Sarlat, but we will be doing day trips to surrounding areas such as Domme, Les Eyzies, St Cyprien, Rocamadour, Carennac, Padirac..

[kiliki]

I was just corresponding with the owner of a b and b near Sarlat (we'll be there next week) and she recommended Le Grand Blue. But, she said if we wanted a reservation to let her know as soon as possible--they are booked all the time now that they've received the star.

[kiliki]

We ate at Le Grand Bleu last week. I'm pretty ambivalent about the experience. My husband enjoyed his dishes (langostine starter, beef with cognac) but mine didn't work for me. My asparagus and truffle starter came with what appeared to be vanilla ice cream (yuk). My lobster was wonderful but the risotto with tarragon and coconut milk was just an odd combo. Both of my dishes came with supplements, adding 21E to the menu price. The peach souffle dessert was fine but not outstanding. My favorite part of the meal was probably the post-dessert fizzy strawberry mousse they brought. I enjoyed our meals at La Belle Etoile (in La Roque Gagneac) and La Recreation (in Les Arques) far more. Both are doable as dinner from Sarlat.

[ja_rtw]

Thought I'd post back a few notes on my wonderful time spent in Sarlat!! I only wish I could have spent more time exploring the area... too many restaurants, too little time!

My first night's dinner in town was at Le Presidial - wow - the 26euro menu is amazing value, really unbelievable. Dining in the garden courtyard as the sun set behind the castle-like restaurant was fantastic - not something I can replicate in Vancouver, BC!! For starters, I had the foie gras de carnard with jelly - a large slab served with jelly (solidified cubes of duck.. juice? very tasty!) sorry, I'm not a food/writing expert, I just like to eat! My fiance-to-be had the escargot, 10 huge snails in a garlic butter sauce baked with bread crumbs? These were by far the largest, freshest tasting escargot I had in France, all the others I tried were definitely of the frozen variety. For mains, I had the duck breast served with peaches (the duck was slightly tough, but paired very well with the peaches and once again, huge portion) My fiance-to-be had a crispy duck confit. We had a few bites of the warm goat cheese salad course that followed.. trying to save room for dessert (classic creme brulee and a dark chocolate ganache)

The next day, the Sarlat Saturday market is as busy and varied as everyone says. Sausages became our favourite word (saucisson!) and after many samples we settled on the cepes (mushroom?) and camembert flavoured ones. The marais de bois, strawberries were quite special - they have a unique perfumed after-taste and were very sweet. With a bottle of sweet Monbazillac, a baguette and a slice of foie from the deli, our gourmet picnic was complete!

In the evening, my fiance-to-be became my official fiance as he surprised me with a proposal at Chateau de la Treyne Really lovely and relaxing.. storybook chateau on a hill with the Dordogne river below - I highly recommend a stay overnight if you're in the area!! Onto the food though, their one star Michelin restaurant has a gorgeous terrace overlooking the river.. I can't remember much of the food as I was still trying to recover from the surprise proposal!! Here's what I can come up from memory - amuse bouches of: chilled asparagus soup with creme fraiche & caviar, puff pastry with mushrooms, escargot served in a potato cup .. follwed by our appetizers of: foie four ways, my favourite being the foie gras epice? it was a slightly sweet & spicy crust on top of the foie. We also had the tomato appetizer, done four ways - favourite being the tomato sorbet. Main course of duck and foie millefeuille, alternating layers of duck breast & foie gras served with a morel sauce.. delicious! Followed by dessert (tropical fruit done in four ways.. chocolate done in four ways..) followed by a post-dessert! Four different shot glasses of increasing sweetness (all fruity) Overall good value for 88euros per person..

The rest of the time we spent back in Sarlat, dinner at Quatre Saisons in the interior courtyard was quite nice, I remember some superb scallops and pretty, quirky presentations of their food (mashed potatos served in a jar) I think I have some pictures taken.. will try to re-post later. Also had a casual dinner at L'Entr'Acte - good value for 13 euro menus and a small cave inside the restaurant for you to visit.

As an aside, Relais de poste was closed Didn't bother me too much as I think I ate very well in this region.. cheers to all those lucky enough to visit!!

Janice

[John DePaula]

Congratulations, Janice!

BTW, it's been several years but I still remember how much I enjoyed my evening at Quatre Saisons. Very nice, indeed.

[Dave Hatfield]

First - congratulations!

Second, I'm glad you enjoyed your Michelin Starred meal. It's heartening after the negativity coming from some members (see the power of Michelin thread).

Thanks for a wonderful post.

[Paul Kondeff]

Janice, congratulations. It sounds as if you had a wonderful trip.

My wife and I will be in Sarlat next month during our 29th anniversary. No decision on where we will spend it. Chateau de la Treyne sounds lovely but we are leaning toward Vieux Logis, it was mentioned very favorably on this thread and also on another forum. We like to graze so the tapas lunch at Vieux Logis will fit nicely.

Sorry to hear about Le Relais de Poste. Did it look as if they are no longer in business or just closed for vacation? Oh well, we still have La Belle Etoile to look forward to and La Recreation in Les Arques (since someone gave us "From Here You Can't See Paris" to read). Plus, the woman who manages the house we are renting gave me hints on how to sauté foie gras properly.

Once again congratulations on your engagement and hope for a long and happy future.

[carlux]

As a resident of the Perigord, I would highly recommend Le Vieux Logis, over Chateau de la Treyne, as having more original food - the 'tapas' menu, at 34 euros, only at weekday lunch, is phenomenal value, compared to la Treyne, which goes from 45-95 euros.

We were very happy with our meal at Le Grand Bleu, although as one of my friends would say, 'it's a bit cheeky' to offer a 29 euro menu with at least half the items requiring a supplement. I suspect they are still trying to attract customers, especially in the winter, and want to be able to say they have a 29 euro menu, but in fact with the quality of what they provide, they probably can't offer very much at that price.

We enjoy the Presidial, especially in the summer, when you can sit in the garden, but you do have to be prepared with a hearty appetite.

Happy to hear that people have enjoyed Quatre Saisons. I and others have found it quite variable. Some years ago we had an atrocious meal there, but have also had vary enjoyable ones.

We also like Bistro de L'Octroi, run by the couple who have La Meynardie int he country near Salignac, a very good restaurant in a lovely setting. The Octroi is considered by locals to be on the of the best, and most 'honest' restaurants in a town that too often offers mediocre confit and pommes sarladaises to tourists.

A restaurant that doesn't appear in too many guides, but is also known for good honest food, unfortunately in a not very interesting setting, is Le Fenelon, on rue de Fenelon. Good food at reasonable prices, nice people.

We're just waiting for some of the tourists to go home so that we can enjoy eating in peace!

[ja_rtw]

Thanks to everyone for the kind comments, it was really a special trip ~ memories to last a lifetime!! And I'm already looking forward to celebrating future anniversaries there

Paul, Relais de Poste looked like it was closed for business - I had tried emailing for a reservation and they responded "le restaurant etant fermé definitivement" I also took a peek into a restaurant I hadn't heard much of "Le Petit Manoir" a little bit hidden on a street behind the big indoor market but I believe there was a sign with directions to it - the setting looked quite cute, sort of a smaller version of Le Presidial but the menu wasn't nearly as enticing as Quatre Saisons.

Vieux Logis looks lovely! I'm sure you and your wife will have a fabulous time there, congratulations. The restaurants and menus definitely seem to offer more variety than the classic French menus at Chateau de la Treyne. The seclusion and views of Chateau de la Treyne were really wonderful though - the morning mist over the river view from our room was really a memorable sight. We even had a view of the manicured French gardens from the jacuzzi tub! (Very private, we were on the third floor) Also the staff were amazing, really went out of their way helping my fiance plan the proposal. I could go on and on about it...

On a somewhat related food note, I saw very little seared foie gras on any of the French restaurant menus.. if it came cooked, it always seemed poached. In contrast, the foie in San Sebastian was almost always seared.. mm.. seared foie gras with apple jelly pincho for 3 euros - yum! I will need to get around to posting some other notes from my trip

[carlux]

I'm surprised that you didn't find seared foie gras (poelé) in Sarlat. It's one of my favourite foods, and we see it often here. Sometimes oozing into a little toast, sometimes with a sauce of Monbazillac or Sauternes and grapes ...