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Paul Haeberlin died this week


fortedei
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He certainly was a charmer! He came to every table on the terrace to greet everyone with his big smile, as frail as he was.

Sharing food with another human being is an intimate act that should not be indulged in lightly....MFK Fisher

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He certainly was a charmer! He came to every table on the terrace to greet everyone with his big smile, as frail as he was.

Are you sure this was the shy and modest Paul, not his brother Jean-Pierre? As the obituary rightly states, Paul "spent his whole life in the kitchen. One would never see him. He was very discreet." During my four visits at L'Auberge de l'Ill, I only saw Paul once, and that was more by accident when I walked past the kitchen door. Unlike Jean-Pierre, he would certainly not come to every table.

This is a tremendous loss for all food lovers. Paul Haeberlin was one of the greatest French chefs of the 20th century, and one of the most European at once. Rest in peace.

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