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Summer menus


Dave Hatfield

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We had our first meal outside on the veranda late last week. It was comfortable that evening, but it has cooled off a bit since. Summer? Maybe not quite yet.

But, I don't think its too early to be thinking about & developing summer menus. Since we had friends scheduled for dinner in any case I used the other evening as my first summer 'practice'. Here's what I cooked:

Starter: Cream of garlic soup with croûtons.

Main: "sort of" Fish stew with gnocchi ( a la Thomas Keller)

Cheese: Well we do live in France. Lait cru Camembert, Chevre, Cantal entre-deux and St Augur.

Dessert: Rhubarb & Apple pie with a crumble topping & vanilla ice cream.

Full description here on my blog.

Now the question is? What are you cooking? Planning? Getting desperate for? In the way of summer meals, dishes & menus?

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It's definitely not too early here on the 30th parallel, just south of New Orleans. I picked the first ripe tomatoes this weekend, so last night's supper included a tomato & feta salad. Another few days, and I'll have the first of loads of fresh zucchini....always in search of new zucchini recipes, like anyone else who plants the damn things. The inshore, white shrimp season kicked off this week; although the catch will be slightly impacted by the Mississippi River's high water, I should be dining on just-caught shrimp by the weekend.

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It's too early here in NYC to think about the next season.

With temperatures in the high 40s (it was 48 this morning), I doubt it'll be anytime soon.

Farmer's markets are still stuck in spring mode. That means ramps, morels, fiddlehead ferns, asparagus, peas. All in good time.

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We're not in full on summer menu, but we're getting closer. I think it's mainly because we're sick of heavy stews and stock winter food.

So far it's been limited to grilling outside (in a hoodie) and running back in, to enjoy it in the warmth of the kitchen. Over the weekend, we had fajitas, which is somewhat summery, but without the homemade salsa, which is VERY summery. One baby step at a time.

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Rhubarb and Apples on a summer menu? Fish stew? Soup? I dunno, that sounds more like a fall or early winter menu to me. Rhubarb is more late winter/early spring, apples are more fall, and stews and soups probably aren't the most appropriate dishes for a summer menu.

I think something like a peach crumble would be a more appropriate desert, soups are fine but summer makes me think more of chilled soups, and I think stews should be used with caution. Summer, to me, says things like grilled food, lighter, more acidic and brighter foods.

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Rhubarb and Apples on a summer menu? Fish stew? Soup? I dunno, that sounds more like a fall or early winter menu to me. Rhubarb is more late winter/early spring, apples are more fall, and stews and soups probably aren't the most appropriate dishes for a summer menu.

I think something like a peach crumble would be a more appropriate desert, soups are fine but summer makes me think more of chilled soups, and I think stews should be used with caution. Summer, to me, says things like grilled food, lighter, more acidic and brighter foods.

I take your point, but:

Here in Europe Rhubarb is definitely a late Spring/ early summer thing. Just becoming available in the markets. Admittedly the apples are the last of last fall's crop. ( I don't think of Peaches as an early summer fruit delicious though they are.)

Garlic soup is light and takes advantage of the new crop of garlic which, again, is just coming into the markets.

I did say "sort of" on the fish stew. Using spring run wild salmon and a few calamari make this dish pretty light. Choux pastry gnocchi again are very light compared to their potato counter parts.

Overall I think a menu for early summer. Not, certainly, a menu for the height of summer, but something to get started with.

I'd be delighted to see the detail of one of your summer menus.

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Friends are visiting from England and we had dinner on my deck (Nashville, TN) Saturday night: grilled salmon (marinated briefly in lime juice, olive oil and lots of garlic;) grilled veggies (zuke, cremini shrooms, red bell pepper, vidalia onion marinated in balsamic, olive oil and fresh herbs;) roasted fingerling potatoes (ok, maybe more winterish but, dang, they're good!) and an apple and fennel salad with lime/mint dressing. Lots of NZ Sauvignon Blanc to wash it all down. :wink: yum.

I may be in Nashville but my heart's in Cornwall

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