Brasserie en Vers

[augustine]

With two consecutive Sunday lunches at brasserie de Verres en Vers at the Radisson off Georges Street, Dublin, I thought I might post about it. On Sunday’s they serve a hot and cold buffet, three large tables laden with Hors-d’oeuvre, salads, cold fish and shellfish preparations and hot joints and vegetables at the pass all looking like they were made straight out Ceserani’s Practical Cookery. All you can eat for 40 euro.

It’s a concept which I don’t see much but which I love. The issue I had was that here on occasions the quality of the food was not good e.g. the smoked salmon, charcuterie and too often the food was overcooked e.g. the Dublin bay prawns, chicken. I followed the same format on both days starting with salads, a la greque,tomato and mozzarella, Russian, potato etc, normally selected from 8 to 10 possibilities. Following that was a shellfish platter and then a beautifully rolled shoulder of lamb cooked pink which was exceptional in both texture and flavour. Yesterday, as we arrived late all the lamb was gone so I had chicken breast, skinless and dry, which was pointless even with the little bit of mint sauce that accidentally found its way on the plate. Desert weren’t that appealing, mainly mousses and dry cake so I had some fruit salad.

The wine is short but with some good producers. The glass of “champagne” which is part of the deal was actually a mousseaux from Touraine and no worse for that. The muscadet was rich and fragrant with lovely acidity. A bottle of Madiran from Montus had some farmyard and animalistic stink which worked just lovely with the sweet lamb. Lots by the glass and carafe.

In the evening the menu reverts back to a classic French bistro menu even if they are calling it a brasserie (and a very plain selection of beer from the bar). The staff are trying hard but the concept doesn’t seem to be working for the market. On purely differentiation it is a nice addition but the quality at forty euros a head exclusive of drinks isn’t there, yet.

Edited April 22, 2008 by augustine (log)

[Corinna Dunne]

Thanks augustine. I haven't been, but I've heard similar reports, so will probably hold off a while longer. It sounds like it's pretty popular though, considering the lamb had run out by the time you got there.