Dinner in Trotter's Kitchen

[cabrales]

jordyn, Matt Zito, two other friends of jordyn and I had dinner at Charlie Trotter's kitchen table recently. For me, the meal was good-to-very-good (using US standards and not French ones, to be clear), but not inspired or otherwise special (except for the aspect of dining in a professional kitchen). I suspect at least some of my dining companions would rate the meal more highly than I have.

(1) Olive Oil Poached Scottish Salmon with Dill.

When I walked around the kitchen at later points during the meal (I walked around the not particularly large kitchen perhaps three times, with stops at all relevant preparation stations on each walk), I was told that the typical slow poaching at low temperatures was being utilized. The poaching oil had, among other things, dill, flat parsley and chives included in it. A small piece of appropriate-tasting salmon was presented atop a puree of cucumber and small juliennes of pickled or cured mini radishes that had the reddish skin of their exterior along each end. Surrounding this was a good amount of salmon roe, adding "glide" in the mouth as well as the feel of their round shapes. What made this dish less attractive for me was the significant cucumber elements, as that vegetable was presented not only as a puree, but also in the chlorophyl-like, "green" saucing based on cucumber. The saucing also had noticeable dill elements. Lemon and lime zest had been grated onto the salmon.

The four members of our dining party who drank began with a bottle of Jacques Selosse Blanc de Blanc NV ($110), which MartyL had brought to our attention and which I enjoyed.

The first four items of the tasting menu were served in a black bento-like box, divided evenly into quadrants. Each was served in a small quantity, with at most two bites being available to be sampled. Despite CT's mention of fourteen courses for the kitchen table menu, the size of the first four courses suggests that ten courses might be a more accurate description.

(2) Marinated Blue Fin Tuna with Cucumber and Wasabi

I was not impressed with this part of the beno box either. jordyn and I agreed that the tuna, in medium-sized cubes, was more attractive than that at Morimoto's the week before. However, I found the tuna quality to be cast in a less favorable light when compared to the O'Toro tartare sampled at Jewel Bako. The saucing, while containing a bit of yuzu (the wasabi was not detectable by me), was predominantly cucumber. Particularly after the salmon described above, the cucumber was not subjectively appealing in this dish. The tuna might have been marinated slightly in soy.

(3) Japanese Rice Cake with Sea Beans, Broccoli and Thai Vinaigrette

This was fine, but nothing special. The rice cake was about the size of a piece of sushi, but included rice that was "stickier" than that typically utilized for sushi and had a quasi-crust on its top portion. Sea beans might be appearing with greater frequency on US menus at this level, and they were alright. The broccoli was appropriate, having been cut into very small bits and not have been cooked prior to serving. The Thai vinaigrette was described as including ginger, cilantro, orange juice, lime juice, jalapeno and sesame. It was appropriate subdued in this dish.

(4) Tourchon of Monkfish Liver with Organic Soy

This was one of my favorite preparations of the evening. The piece of monkfish liver had the textures of foie gras, but not the greasiness of certain foie gras. It tasted clean, and was very good. The soy had seeped nicely into the outer portions of the liver, and was much nicer than regular soy sauce.

(5) Millefeuile of Squash with Gazpacho Sorbet

This was a small, long section of very thin (in a good way) millefeuille, interspersed with supple squash, heirloom tomatoes and limited (appropriately) amounts of ricotta. This was a delicate dish, and I liked it. The millefeuille was light when taken in. The gazpacho sorbet was nice as well, being slightly spicy and bearing tomato flavors in an appropriate intensity. I still like Blue Hill's tomato sorbet better, but this version was nice.

(6) Steamed Maine Diver Sea Scallop with Olive-Leek Emulsion

The single largish plump scallop served was appropriately cooked in this dish. The leek sections sitting underneath it were softened, but had a certain darkness from the olives with which they had been flavored. For some reason, the seasoning of the leeks reminded me of burdock. Also included were pickled/cured radishes (apparently raw, I believe) -- probably the same type as had accompanied the olive oil poached salmon with which the meal began. There was a bit of herbed, green-colored oil to complete the dish.

I had initially thought about ordering the 1992 Haut Brion Blanc for $300, but noticed Chassagne Montrachet, Ramonet, from 1981 and 1982 (in the $300-325 range for each bottle). We spoke with the sommelier, and he appeared to strongly prefer the Ramonet. We therefore chose the Ramonet 1982 ($315), which was wonderful -- developed and probably the oldest Chassagne Montrachet I have had to date. Ramonet is one of my favorite producers, and I am not frequently disappointed when I choose a bottle from it.

(7) Hawaiin Moi with Cardamom Infused Carrot Emulsion

This was my favorite dish of the meal. The moi, a whitefish, had glistening, silver skin that was left "on". The flesh was flavorful, and the sunchokes included in the saucing showed through. Yellow, round and red baby carrots were nicely included. I liked the overall effect of the saucing emulsion, which did not necessarily taste like carrots.

(8) Canadian Foie Gras with Montana Huckleberries & Hickory Nuts

An appropriate preparation of foie gras, with a beautifully purplish sauce made from huckleberries. The taste of huckleberries appeared, to be, to be a blend of cassis and blueberries. The hickory nuts were difficult to detect in the dish (in a nice way). A braised onion and red wine sauce was also included. jordyn shared a $100 glass of 1980s d'Yquem with a friend, but I adhered to the more reasonably priced ($11-13) Muscat. Lady T had mentioned how much she had appreciated this pairing by CT's sommeliers on one occasion, and I was the beneficiary of her experience. The d'Yquem was wonderful on the nose, however, and it was interesting sitting next to jordyn and his friend as they enjoyed it. Had the meal up to this point been compelling, I believe I would have been more tempted to order the d'Yquem (which NoMI also had by the glass, at $47 for the younger 1994 vintage). However, given my desire to be more budget conscious for a while, I opted for the enjoyable Muscat.

(9) Breast of Bobwhite Quail with Delicata Squash

The quail dish was appealing, accompanied by red wine braised fennel. The little pieces included were delicious, being moist and flavorful and relatively delicate. What added to the quality of the dish was a small mass of shredded quail meat on the side. We proceeded to a Merus that other diners could better describe ($175).

(10) Illinois Rabbit Loin with Risotto & Boudin

This dish was average. The red wine sauce appeared a bit duplicative of the utilization of red wine in certain other ingredients in prior dishes, but that was not a significant problem. A decent amount of summer truffles accompanied the dish.

Summer truffles were included in a number of Matt Zito's dishes, as Matt had called in advance for a vegetarian menu. The serving team member described them initially as "black truffles" -- not necessarily the most accurate term. There appeared to have been some thought put into the construction of the menu for Matt, which contained some of the dishes from the CT vegetarian menu.

(11) Grilled Wagyu Strip Loin with Lobster Mushrooms

This dish was fairly good. The beef, from Texas, was not as delicious as other Wagyu preparations I have had, and arrived in the form of 3-4 smallish slices of regular beef slicing thickness. One problem, for me, was that the meat appeared to have been presented medium. I would have preferred a rare preparation, and probably should have been more proactive about communicating that preference to the serving team member. The chunks of lobster mushrooms were very flavorful.

(12) Manchego Millefeuille (not official name; not meaningfully sampled)

I skipped this course, but the triangle of manchego within a millefeuille-type structure appeared to be too sweet (perhaps from quince?? or fruit confit?) from a tiny sample.

(13) Pink Guava, Passion Fruit, Nino Banana, Papaya & Coconut Sorbets with Lychees

The pink guava and papaya quenelles was the flavors I liked. The former was grainy, and nuanced. The latter had significant bitterness, almost as if some of the seeds inside a papaya had been ground in (like not). I do not like passion fruit sorbet generally, and the coconut sorbet lacked the texture and granularity of coconut. The nino banana was quite intensely flavored, and was not bad. The lychees were small and softened, and embedded in a loose, crushed gelee.

(14) Sauteed Black Mission Figs & Fig Sorbet; Caramel/Coriander Ice Cream; Pumpkin Tart with Huckleberries, Marshmallows & Clove Ice Cream. The figs were alright -- nothing special. The ice cream was also acceptable. The pumpkin tart was fairly nice, with uneven ridges along the outside of the tart and with a nice taste to the pumpkin elements. I took in Toaki Aszu 5 Puttayos 1996 ($14/glass) with this.

(15) Mignardises, including a nice mini white chocolate with rose petal dust.

Overall, the meal was good-to-very-good, but it did not seem inspired. Note this is not necessarily a criticism; most meals I take in are uninspired, in my view. The portion of the bill allocable to me was $370 after tax and before tips. While I would eat at CT if I happen to be in Chicago in the future, I doubt I would make another trip to the city for Trotter's cuisine. That being said, the kitchen table experience was somewhat interesting.

Miscellaneous

Trotter's kitchen team works in an organized, non-harried manner. Everybody appeared to know what was expected and there was no shouting or other indications of heightened tension. The kitchen table was comfortable -- I did not feel pushed or otherwise physically constrained. There were plenty of opportunities to tour the kitchen, and, as mentioned, I did so on at least three occasions. I walked the entire kitchen area, which is not particularly large for a restaurant serving up to 240 covers a night (in two services). Many of the chefs appeared not to speak French.

Trotter appeared for five minutes, but did not even bother to say hello. Not that I would necessarily have wanted him to ask how the meal was proceeding. For all relevant purposes, Trotter was not supervising the kitchen that night. I had asked a serving team member whether the kitchen could prepare a particular dish Trotter had prepared in connection with the Relais Gourmand 30th anniversary in Paris recently. That request did not pan out, although the serving team was nice about declining the request. Service was quite good, and the sommelier appeared relatively knowledgeable.

The washroom on the ground floor has menus from primarily restaurants in France framed as wall decorations (e.g., Michel Trama, Bernard Loiseau, an old Troisgros menu). As mentioned by another member some time ago, Rob Feenie of Lumiere, Vancouver, apparently got the idea for a similar decorative element from Trotter

[awbrig]

Thanks for the detailed review! Im sorry you were not blown away...Although I have never had a bad experience at CT's, occasionally (once or twice) the food didnt completely "wow" me. Its usually when they cook from off the menu that we get completely "blown away". Did you have any other courses? What was the amuse bouche? Did they give you any parting gifts? Did you take pictures? Who was your server (s)?

[Jinmyo]

Very interesting report, cabrales. I forget now so I'll ask: had you had monkfish liver prior to this?

[cabrales]

Did you have any other courses?  What was the amuse bouche? Did they give you any parting gifts? Did you take pictures? Who was your server (s)?

awbrig -- Surprisingly, we received no amuses. There were also no other courses. We received no parting gifts, except an indication that the menu for the evening would be subsequently printed out and mailed to one of us. May I ask what types of parting gifts you have seen being provided?

I took many pictures, which I expect to mail to Matt Zito for scanning onto the board. The pictures will include views of the kitchen for members' inspection. Our sommelier was not Belinda Chang, but a youngish man with brown, almost black, hair. Our serving member was primarily Dori, a young woman who has not been with Trotter's long but who had a good attitude.

I forget now so I'll ask: had you had monkfish liver prior to this?

Jinmyo -- Yes, I like monkfish liver alot. In the last four months, I have probably had it five or six times, but mostly at Japanese restaurants (e.g., Sushi Yasuda).

I wanted to comment on the style of Trotter's cuisine. I did not perceive that there was a general French style to his cuisine, although he obviously utilizes considerable French technique. There were more elements traditionally associated with Asian cuisine (including in ingredients, saucing and presentation) than I had expected, and more utilization of oil-based and wine-based sauces. That I was not wow'd by the meal likely reflects not just inherent characteristics of Trotter's cuisine, but also my subjective preferences.

[Jinmyo]

cabrales, yes monkfish liver is tremendous. In some ways (or at least at some times) I would much prefer it to foie gras.

You mention that

Many of the chefs appeared not to speak French.

Would you expect any of them to? Even if they could, why would they do so in Chicago?

[cabrales]

Would you expect any of them to? Even if they could, why would they do so in Chicago?

One might imagine that some of the chefs had trained in France, and would have been able to speak at least passable French. Perhaps the number of restaurants offering what is perceived to be good training in the US is such that cuisiniers do not do stages in France as much?

[awbrig]

Well, I know Charlie does not put major emphasis on cooks fom prestigious culinary schools or certain locations where professinal chefs are born unto... France being included. Charlie, himself, has no formal training...

[Jinmyo]

I believe that Trotter has arranged for some people to stage in France. But he doesn't do French cuisine, although of course the organization of tasks and so on is based on Escoffier. Trotter trained extensively in kitchens rather than culinary courses but he does provide some scholarships for culinary school training.

[cabrales]

Trotter trained extensively in kitchens ...

Jinmyo -- Trotter trained "extensively" in kitchens?

[awbrig]

he actually started cooking between cook offs with his roomate in college...

worked as a bus boy in Chicago under Gordon Sinclair, eventually moved into the kitchen and worked under Gordon and Norman Van Aiken and also ate his away around Europe...but no official schooling...

[awbrig]

Cabrales,

It's hard to say when or if you get parting gifts but its usually during a special event such as a Birthday or anniversary...Its usually a book or a few food products...

Im actually surprised you werent given a few special off menu dishes considering the wines you purchased...or perhaps they were chosen in mind of the kitchen table menu...

[Aurora]

Cabrales - thank you for that report. I'm sorry that the experience was not more memorable.

On the point of "parting gifts," it is not uncommon for guests to leave with boxes of beautifully tied mignardises, signed caps, shirts, cookbooks, menus, or the labels from the wine that they enjoyed.

[cabrales]

Hmm -- We tipped rather well, I believe, too.

[Jinmyo]

Trotter trained extensively in kitchens ...

Jinmyo -- Trotter trained "extensively" in kitchens?

I don't remember where or for how long. I just wanted to indicate that he's not actually "self-taught".

[Lady T]

Trotter spent approximately four years cooking both in Florida and California, so I'm told, and so his published CV confirms. While he did spend six months living and eating in Europe, he apparently didn't do stages in any European kitchens; I find no reference to formal European stage work in any official or unofficial (magazine articles, books, web sites and such) bio materials. Might've happened, mind you...but nobody seems to have documented anything if it did.

Whether, or to what extent, this constitutes "extensive" training, or even "sufficient" training, could be argued -- especially on this board! -- for months on end, probably to no great lasting benefit for anybody. It certainly contrasts vividly with the classic French vie gastronomique, famously (and sometimes abusively) begun in childhood and peaking 15 - 20 years later, though.

I have to wonder if, at this late date and with CT's now a solidly established 15-year-old fact, it might not be better to simply acknowledge that the guy didn't arrive by the route one might expect -- taking due note of the fact that in the US there hasn't BEEN an expected route for very long at all. Given that he's only 43, we can reasonably expect that he has a great deal more to contribute (and likely a great deal more for us to discuss!).

[awbrig]

Charlie is self-educated. He has no "formal training." Has he learned and utilized techniques from other chefs and cuisine? Of course, who hasn't...

Here's a little run down...

After graduating from UW Madison, w Political Science Degree, he waited tables for Gordon Sinclair in Lake Forest. After several months of doing that he was moved to a line cook. ( I know Gordon Sinclair and he once told me that when he hired Charlie as a busboy he knew that Charlie had something special and was going to be big...)

Charlie told his father he was interested in opening a restaurant someday and knew that the culinary world was his calling. His father told him he would help him when he felt he was ready...

Moved to San Fran and lived there for a year and a half. Attended California Culinary Academy but dropped out after only 4 months. Stayed in the city and worked in a few kitchens, including Hotel Meridien. Took advantage of being close to Napa and increased his knowledge of wine.

Moved to Jupiter, FL where he hooked up w Norman Van Aken & Gordon Sinclair to open Sinclair's Grill. After 6 months Charlie travelled to New York to dine in the city...

Went to Paris and ate his way around for 6 months immersing himself in famous cuisine and cookbooks.

Had an "epiphany" at Girardet in Switzerland in 1985 and knew what he was going to do.

With the help of his father, opened Charlie Trotters in 1987.

[GordonCooks]

I got a CT Wine Key my last time.

[Michael Laiskonis]

Cabrales,

Thank you for another report. Perhaps I missed it, but it wasn't clear whether you had dined at Trotter's before or if this was your fisrt experience.

Who was running the kitchen in Charlie's absence? I've been unable to keep track of who is filling the Chef de Cuisine post these days. Was it Matthias or Guillermo? Did the kitchen brigade play any role in the presentation or explanation of the dishes as they were served? How many cooks would you guess were working?

Were there any elements of fine dining or cooking that may have been demystified based on your observations of the kitchen?

It would not surprise me if key members of the brigade had completed stages in France and even Spain. It is my perception that Charlie has become a "member" of that top tier of chefs, where travelling among their kitchens would not be uncommon. Don't forget that a young Albert Adria spent time at Trotter's. A young friend of mine recently worked at Jean Bardet, with the help of Charlie.

Specifically, on what levels were your expectations not met? And what might your companions have judged differently? Could it be attributed to experience with Trotter's cuisine in the past or experience with haute cuisine in general? I'm perplexed by your different standards applied to "French" and "non-French". What, in your view, apart from the obvious Asian influence, defines a cuisine as essentially French? My apologies if you have discussed this point elsewhere!

After this experience, would you place Trotter's as one of the top three or five restaurants in the US, as the prevailing opinion seems to suggest?

I've received some nice baked goods upon departure. Seems odd that they would mail you the menu.

[awbrig]

Actually, that is how they are doing the menu's these days, by mailing them to you - usually so they can be signed. They also sometimes give you the menu and mail you another set. Also, the reason too is because they update the mailed menu in accordance to what you may have had- if off the original menu...

Guillermo is usually not at the restaurant these days but spending the majority of the time at the store- his wife still is at the restaurant full-time. Matt Merges primarily is in charge (next to Charlie, of course).

[Michael Laiskonis]

Thanks, awbrig, I know Charlie tends to keep his people close, but with him spreading out, I tend forget who is where!

One more question for Cab, Was your impression painted by Charlie's absence? Do you feel the food would have been better if he was supervising, or if you had received the same food and he was there, would you have been even more disappointed?

[cabrales]

but it wasn't clear whether you had dined at Trotter's before or if this was your fisrt experience.

Michael -- This was my first visit to Trotter's. I believe it was the first visit for all diners involved.

Who was running the kitchen in Charlie's absence? I've been unable to keep track of who is filling the Chef de Cuisine post these days. Was it Matthias or Guillermo? Did the kitchen brigade play any role in the presentation or explanation of the dishes as they were served? How many cooks would you guess were working?

I did not care enough about the cuisine to ask the name of the apparently sous-chef. That individual was a man with brown hair, and he did not appear to have a French accent when speaking English. He was busily applying blue, yellow, pink and green highlighting to different orders as dishes were presented before him. He did not even say hello to us once. I would have expected at least some sort of welcome from the man, given that he was standing literally quite close to our table.

The cuisiniers did not play a role in presenting or explaining the dishes.

I would say there were about 12-15 or so cuisiniers, with 3-4 patissiers included. The expediting station was closest to our table, which was right next to the vacuum packing machine. Behind was the garde manger, then the patisseriers were in the final of perhaps 3 "rows" as one entered the kitchen. To the right of the kitchen table were the plongeurs, separated by a little metallic cabinet. Further along, next to the plongeurs and adjacent to the sous-chef, but still on the right hand side, was the meat station. I am uncertain where hot fish dishes are prepared. The saucing chef appeared to be operating between the plongeurs and the meat station.

Were there any elements of fine dining or cooking that may have been demystified based on your observations of the kitchen?

I'd say no, since I have visited many kitchens in France after meals.

Specifically, on what levels were your expectations not met? And what might your companions have judged differently?

My subjective expectations were not particularly high with respect to Trotter's, and also with respect to many restaurants in the US. So I wouldn't say that my expectations were not necessarily met. My companions might have judged differently because preferences are subjective.

I'm perplexed by your different standards applied to "French" and "non-French". What, in your view, apart from the obvious Asian influence, defines a cuisine as essentially French?

For me, restaurants in France generally have better cuisine. I apply much more stringent standards to such restaurants than to restaurants in the US. On French tasting, it's hard to define. I'd have to say that, at Trotter's, things did not taste "French" in general cuisine style (that is not objectively a negative, but it is a significant subjective negative).

After this experience, would you place Trotter's as one of the top three or five restaurants in the US, as the prevailing opinion seems to suggest?

I would not place Trotter's among the top three or five restaurants in the US, but my tastes are quite quirky. For example, I would place Blue Hill in that category, and clearly French Laundry. Also, I do not like to arrive at a conclusion regarding a restaurant's cuisine unless I have sampled it several times. Thus, the Trotter's report is a preliminary one, and I would resample the cuisine when an opportunity presented itself. I am unlikely to travel to Chicago specifically to visit the restaurant, as I did on this occasion, though. On FL, I have only eaten there once.

[cabrales]

Sorry -- duplicate post.

[marcus]

Cabrales -- What's your net on Trotter versus the New York high end

Daniel

Jean-Georges

Lespinasse

Bouley

Le Bernardin

[cabrales]

marcus -- Not that the NY restaurants mentioned are necessarily the restaurants I prefer, but I would choose to eat at Le Bernardin, Bouley or Lespinasse over Trotter's. I would eat at Trotter's over J-G. For Daniel, it's a bit unclear.

[marcus]

Interesting, thanks. I can see the similarity of Trotter and Jean-Georges, both emphasize flavor for making a primary impact, and both are less than excellent in their treatment of foodstuffs.