Cheese-centered Paris bistros

[John Whiting]

While I'm in Paris next week (leaving early Tuesday morning) I'll be looking into Paris bistros which center their cuisine around cheese and/or are attached to a fromagerie. Two famous ones have sadly disappeared: Androuet and La Fromagerie de Paris. When I get there, I'll be asking Marie-Anne Cantin and Roland Barthelemy, but if anyone knows of any specific places, their identification would be much appreciated. If you're not certain of precise location, I can probably pin them down via the Pages Jaunes website.

Thanks in advance for any help.

[hollywood]

I've never been, but here's a tasty sounding candidate.

http://www.fermesainthubert.com/

[jaybee]

Run, don't walk, to Ferme St, Hubert. Rue Vignon is a movable feast. The Maison de Miel is there, a fantastic charcuterie, but Hubert is the best cheese store I've come across in Paris. They have tables and a cafe too. My mouth waters at the prospect.

[Steve Plotnicki]

Your mouth waters at every prospect .

[John Whiting]

What a first-rate suggestion! None of my guide books (and I have most of them) seem to be aware of it. [Edit: I take it back. It's in Zagat.] A thousand thanks!

[cabrales]

John -- I only have the 2001 Guide Rouge with me at this moment, but under the section on where to go for different dishes, there is a section on cheese. The two Michelin recommendations are:

(1) Montparnasse 25 (14th arrondisement), in the Hotel Meridien Montparnasse, then with one star: 19 r Cdt Mouchotte, 01 44 36 44 25, closed Sundays. Meals 220 francs for lunch, 330/420 for dinner; carte at 360-450 francs.

(2) A l'Escargot (outside of central Paris, apparently, at Aulnay-sous-Bois -- 19 from Paris) 40 rte Bondy, 01 48 66 88 88, closed Sundays and Mondays. Meals 130 francs/180; carte 200-360.

Note I have not eaten at the above restaurants.

[John Whiting]

Cabrales, thanks. Didn't think of that. The same two are listed in the 2002 guide. I suspect that it's the cheese selection with dinner which is being recommended. What I have to write about is the more modest establishments, probably attached to a fromagerie, in which the entire menu is cheese-oriented. For instance, I note from the St. Hubert website that they feature tartiflette, that wonderful blend of melted Reblochon and sliced potato which, for some reason, most of the standard reference books don't even mention.

[hollywood]

Your mouth waters at every prospect  .

Don't knock em till you've tasted the prospects.

[John Whiting]

Paris: " . . . where every prospect pleases." (Ignore the next line.)

[jaybee]

This site lists other cheese stores in Paris, which may have restaurants or cafes attached.

Clicky Cheese Please

[John Whiting]

Rogov seems to have rambled in another era. Androuet's in rue Amsterdam is long gone and his London listings ignore one of the finest cheese shops ever, Patricia Michelson's La Fromagerie. And where's the Berkeley Cheese Board?

[Jonathan Day]

Today's newspaper describes a fair, "France of 1000 cheeses", now running in the Tuileries Gardens. "Yesterday hundreds of people queued ... to pay £1.25 ... for a plate of five cheeses from the region of their choice, bread, a glass of wine..." They are also offering advice on serving cheese, history of French cheeses, etc.

Unfortunately it closes tomorrow...

[John Whiting]

JD, thanks for the good news.

[cabrales]

John -- Below is a summary of the section on cheese in Emmanuel Rubin's book (my copy is in French) "Paris des Envies Gourmandes 2002" (Paris of Gourmand Desires 2002"):

-- Androuet Sur Le Pouce, 49 rue Saint-Roch (1st), 01.42.97.57.39: There is some type of counter (?) there now. Around 100 FF.

-- Cloche des Halles, 28 rue Coquilliere (1st), 01.42.36.93.89: A bistro. The owner offers chacuterie as well as cheese, including camembert, saint-marcellin, grand saint-nectaire, sometimes livarot. Around 120 FF.

-- La Ferme Saint Hubert, 21 rue Vignon (8th), 01.47.42.79.20: Famous fromagerie. 160 FF.

-- Grand Vefour -- not the context sought.

-- Montparnasse 25 -- previously described.

-- Pain, Vin et Fromage, 3 rue Geoffroy l'Angevin (4th), 01.42.74.07.52: More than 46 types of cheese in a cave. Offers raclette and also some fondues. Around 150 FF.

-- Le Verre Bouteille, 5 bd Gouvion-Saint-Cyr (17th), 01.47.63.39.99. Or 85 avenue des Ternes (17th), 01.45.74.01.02. 150 FF.

-- For Stilton, Timbre, 3 rue Sainte-Beuve (6th), 01.45.49.10.40

-- For Camembert, Repaire de Cartouche, 99 rue Amelot (11th), 01.47.00.25.86; also Chez Rech, 62 avenue des Ternes (17th), 01.45.72.28.91

-- For Comte, Arpege (not the context sought)

-- For Cantal, Maison du Cantal, 1 Place Falguiere (15th)

-- For Brebis, Carre des Feuillants (not the context sought)

-- For Munster, L'Alsaco, 10 rue Condorcet (9th), 01.45.26.44.31

-- For Cabecous, Au Trou Gascon, 40 rue Taine (12th), 01.43.44.34.26 (Dutournier's bistro; not the context sought)

-- For Manchego, Casa Alicade, 117 bd de Grenelle (15th), 01.47.83.39.71

-- For Tarmicoton (a camembert cooked with herbs and white wine), Taverne Henri IV, 13 place du Pont-Neuf (1st), 01.43.54.27.90

-- For Belgian cheese, Bouillon Racine, 3 rue Racine (6th), 01.44.32.15.60

-- For "Hauts Plateaux" (high plates?), Elysees du Vernet (not the context sought)

Note I have not sampled cheese at most of the places indicated. Please call to verify prior to reliance.

[VivreManger]

I don't know if this thread is still getting attention since the trip is done, but a few added notes.

La Ferme Saint Hubert, 21 rue Vignon, is definitely worth a visit. One of the last times I went, the owner, Henri Voy, treated me to a glass of red and a very tasty plate of cheese at his restaurant next door. I particularly like their selection of brin d'amour.

BTW I like this cheese well-ripened, slightly yellow and soft -- like a good brie -- as opposed to its somewhat chalky creamy white state when it is still young. The best brin d'amour I ever had was one I bought at Saint Hubert and left in the back of my car on a trip to Normandy during a particularly hot summer about twenty years ago. After a day or two, the cheese ripened to a deliciously runny state.

Has anyone else had similar success with this chesse? When I buy it in the States, except occasionally at Zabar's, it is difficult to find the variety of ripenesses that a good French cheese shop can offer. In Boston it is so expensive that I never buy a whole cheese and am dependent on the state of what they happen to have at the Newton branch of the Bread and Circus chain.

Another good cheese shop is on the street next to the Marche Batignolles at the end of the rue des Batignolles, in the 17th. I can't remember the name, but their brin d'amour were smaller than those at St-Hubert and therefore more affordable as well as more easily ripened. They had a good selection of calvados flavored camembert. Nearby is a very good wineshop. Unfortunately I have not been there since 1997 when I was living in the neighborhood so I can't vouch for the current quality of either place.

Another well-know shop is La Ferme Saint-Aubin, 76 rue Saint-Louis en l'île, 4th 01 43 54 74 54. As I recall they have a particularly strong selection of chevres.

If anyone picks up this string and wishes to continue the subject of cheese, I have a number of other issues to discuss: experience bringing cheese into the US, and the name of a particular chevre I got years ago at Saint-Aubin.

BTW, the rue Vignon is not quite the gourmand mecca it used to be. Many years ago a store named Tanrade used to be there as well -- I think the site was taken over by Maison de Miel. They had the most amazing collection of confitures, jams, syrops and essences for fruit sorbet, I have ever seen. They retired and sold their recipes to Furet Tanrade 01 47 70 48 34, FABRICATION DE CONFISERIES ET DE CHOCOLATS, 63 r Chabrol 75010, not as sympa a location, but if you like fruit essences worth a trip. But double check the number first since I have not had the time to get their in a few years. If you like to make your own sorbet, their unsugared fruit reductions are amazing convenience. Even if you just want to cook with a variety fruit flavors, they are very handy.

[Bux]

A few of things to note. Whenever you add a post to a thread, the thread rises to the top of the list. When people do a search on a topic, it's often handy to have relevant posts in one thread. If you're taking the thread in new directions however, you should be aware than people may not read through several pages to get to your recent post. It's always a judgement call whether to start a new thread or add to an old one.

Bringing chese back into the US is a good topic. The law is fairly exact about not allowing raw milk cheeses less than 90 days old, but there's good evidence that inspectors are only interested in commercial import. It seems as if no one cares about small amounts brought in for your own use. Listeriosis is the main concern and perhaps the only one. The disease (if it's in your cheese in the first place, and it's not common in raw milk in France) will not be spread and at worst, will affect you and not an innocent public. We did not attempt to bring in any cheese on our last trip as we were over loaded with jams and other artisanal products that, when we packed for the return trip, proved more than heavy and burdensome enough in our luggage. A French friend however, brought in some wonderful lait cru Mont d'Or and Epoisses a few months ago. Purchased at a reliable cheese merchant in her home town, they were the equal of any we had in fine restaurants.

[marlena spieler]

does anyone have any suggestions for the best cheeseplate in a restaurant these days, taking into consideration that i will be taking a whole family of 4 in addition to us, so cost is a consideration.

also, i'd like the rest of the meal to match the cheeseboard in quality. which hasn't always been my experience.

what about one of the restaurants that specialize in cheese? or the place in montparnasse? though i think that is too expensive for the likes of us......

merci hugely,

marlena

[bleudauvergne]

Marlena, there's a place in the 11eme, near Place Republique, called Restaurant Astier. They have a traditional menu with lots of selection, about €26. They have an excellent cheese plate and good wine list. The cheese platter is enormous and full of selection.

Restaurant Astier

44 r Jean Pierre Timbaud 75011 PARIS

01 43 57 16 35

01 43 38 25 56

They're closed on weekends, and a reservation is recommended, you can call one or two days ahead and still get a table. I'm not sure if they close down for a summer holiday, better to call and check.

Lucy

[marlena spieler]

oh, of course, and thank you so much, lucy! sometimes i go there for a solo lunch but i couldn't think of the name when i tapped out that message!

Astier it is, then! I do hope they're open this week.......

un grand merci,

x x marlena

[John Talbott]

This week's Zurban brings good news to those bemoaning the loss of all or mostly cheese restos in Paris. La Table de Mar Labourel, 6, rue Ernest Renan in the 15th, 01.43.06.94.75, closed Sundays and Monday night, has just opened and their specialty is cheese, as in goat cheese raviolis, salmon with bleu d’auvergne and beef with Roquefort. The Cheese menu is 49 E, regular menu 49 E as well, but a la carte only 25-30 E at lunch and 35-40 E at dinner without wine or cheese. Pierrick Jegu thinks it may lack a little oomph and be a bit pricey but he urges one to go for the 100% cheese meal.

[John Talbott]

In the June Where Paris, Alexander Lobrano mentioned three cheese-oriented restos –

La Fromagerie 31, 64 rue de Seine in the 6th, 01.43.26.50.31,

Pain, Vin et Fromage, 3, rue Geoffroy l’Angevin in the 4th, 01.42.74.07.52, and

Fromages et Affinities, 58, rue des Mathurins in the 8th, 01.40.06.96.18.

[John Whiting]

Pain, Vin et Fromage, 3, rue Geoffroy l’Angevin in the 4th, 01.42.74.07.52, and

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Glad to hear it's still going! I recommended it in the article that grew out of this thread four years ago.