Digest: 2008 Paris Restaurant Reviews

[John Talbott]

The Week of January 1st, 2008

Monday, Le Fooding’s Elvira Masson reviewed Quai Quai, 74 quai des Orfèvres in the 1st, 01 46 33 69 75, not far from the Balland-Cohen group’s other places, eg Cinq Mars, l’Altro, Lei serving an “impeccable” lentil salad, very good filet of beef, risotto with spinach and sorel and French toast.

Wednesday-Thursday, Jean Claude Ribaut wrote an article on vegetarian restaurants, many of which are ethnic. They included:

Guen Maï

Le Grenier de Notre-Dame

Aquarius

Dietetic Shop

Chen-Soleil d'Est

Ratn

Mavrommatis.

Thursday, Philippe Couderc in Nouvel Obs wrote a review of Oscar, 1, place du Maréchal-de-Lattre-de-Tassigny, Levallois-Perret, 5 minutes from the ports of Champerret et Maillot, 01-47-59-00-82 offers “good vibrations” and bistro food such as parsleyed pork, terrines, rouget, veal’s foot, scallops, prunes with wine and soon pot au feu and confited porc cheeks; menus at lunch 19-29, dinner for 32 and a la carte 36-42 €.

Saturday-Sunday in Le Figaro, Francois Simon’s “Croque-Notes” dealt two places out of town: la Madeleine in Sens and le Neuvieme Art near Saint-Étienne.

Saturday/Sunday, in Bonjour Paris, Margaret Kemp a review of the Petit Marguery and John Talbott had an essay on “Creativity.”

Sunday, JDD ran its usual where great chefs like to eat in Paris. This week it was Didier Elena of Les Crayeres in Reims who chose l’Arome + Fogon. And Astrid T’Serlaes lists 6 “secret” restos {that are hardly secret to us}:

Racines

Le Salon - Cinema de Pantheon

Il Vino

Le Grand Pan

Spring

Chez Jeannette.

Since it’s the New Year, it might be time to publish a few lists: this of “hot restaurants” from Gayot.com that includes:

Alain Senderens

Apicius

L’Astrrance

Citrus Etoile

Diane

Lasserre

Les Ombres

Michel Rostang

Spoon

Toustem.

And along the same lines, here are the favorites of restoaparis, a site that features places for locals that are often not featured by the big boys:

L'Escapade Mère Grand

New Mitonne

Doudingue

L'Oie Cendrée

Casa Del Fox

C'est Mon Plaisir

L'Impasse

Casa de Espana

La Cuisine

Le Baxo

Finally, Eat in Paris has its list:

Guy Savoy

Lasserre

Apicius

Taillevent

Le Bamboche

Ledoyen

Les Ambassadeurs

Le Jules Verne

Chez Catherine

Ginger.

Please post comments here and not in the Digest thread.

Edited January 6, 2008 by John Talbott (log)

[John Talbott]

The Week of January 7th, 2008

Monday, in Le Fooding, Elvira Masson & Alexandre Cammas reviewed Ghislaine Arabian’s new place Les Petites Sorcières – Ghislaine Arabian, 12, rue Liancourt in the 14th, 01 43 21 95 68, closed Sundays and Mondays, serving such northern fare as cod doused in beer, grey shrimp, leeks with chive cream, true fries and scallops – main dishes are 20-24 €.

Tuesday in A Nous Paris, Philippe Toinard awarded 3/5 blocks to Coco & Co in the 6th and M comme Martine in the 17th. {Both are hardly new so I won’t repeat what others have noted but say that I found M charming.}

Tuesday as well, François-Régis Gaudry reviewed the Philippe Starkized Le Dali at the Meurice, coordinates below, where Yannick Alleno has proposed a lighter fare than in the main room, and there are dishes on the left marked light (such as osciere caviar, but which are not light in price) and on the right 100% flavorful (such as leek and potato soup); he also mentions a miso-ginger consommé of beef, linguini with squid ink and palourdes, pasta with clams and a pear financier. His colleague, Katell Pouliquen, reviewed the Senegalese Chez Blondin in the exLe Jardin des pâtes space in the 13th.

Wednesday, in Figaroscope’s “C’est nouveau” Emmanuel Rubin awarded 4/5 hearts to the Ducassian-renovated Jules Verne, Pilier Sud, Eiffel Tower, in the 7th, 01.45.55.61.44, open everyday, with menus at 75 (lunch), 150, 155 and 190 € for lobster, tournedos, pommes soufflées, etc; 3/5 hearts to the snob dinette in the Meurice, Le Dali, 228, rue de Rivoli in the 1st, 01.44.58.10.10, serving up langoustine raviolis, sole with shellfish and a sacher torte for about 100 €. Then came 3 one hearters: the Asian-sounding Moonsoon in the 9th, costing only 8-15 € depending on your non-appetite; the eclectic Kenze, 4, rue de Bargue in the 15th, 01.43.06.37.19, closed Sundays, serving everything from couscous to magret, foie gras to tajines and North African piperade to beet tartare for about 25-30 €, menus at 14.50 (lunch) and 30 (dinner); and the Italianate trattoria-pizzeria Pomodoro in the 18th.

This week’s “Dossier” was titled “10 Restaurants to rediscover,” for different reasons:

The décor: the room at Chartier, the aquariums at the Dragons Elysees and Ozu.

The view: Dans le Noir, the panoramas at le Ciel de Paris, le Georges, le Jules Verne + Le Tour d’Argent.

The art and manner: the aligot at l’Ambassade d’Auverge, the cocktails at La Famille, molecular cuisine at Lena & Mimile, the barman at N’importe quoi and the crepes at l’Auberge Bressane.

The ambiance: at La Coupole.

For his part, Francois Simon went to the Japanese Benkay with fresh products from all over where the bill was about 50 €.

Wednesday as well, Richard Hesse in Paris Update reviewed the revived Au Bascou, coordinates given before, where the group had an outstanding meal.

Thursday, Philippe Couderc of NouvelObs also reviewed Le Dali and awarded it 14/20 for food and 13-14/20 for price quality.

Friday, Francois Simon in Le Figaro, had an article on Trish Deseine, an Irish “queen of cookbooks,” {several of which are published in French & Spanish.}

Saturday-Sunday in the FT weekend edition, Jancis Robinson rethinks her dislike of white Rhones.

Saturday-Sunday, in Bonjour Paris, Margaret wrote an article on Umu in London and John Talbott an essay on “Slow Food in France.”

In the Sunday NYT Travel Section, Christine Muhlke wrote about the “Basque country modern” Afaria, coordinates well-known {which according to some of our members means one will no longer be able to easily reserve}, and suggested if you cannot get in you should go to the “up and coming” Beurre Noisette {up and coming for about a decade, I’d guess.}

Poliane has set up a bar-food place next door at 8, rue du Cherche-Midi in the 6th, 01.45.48.45.69 and GoGoParis’s Francesca Unsworth, reviewed it saying their tartines with everything from foie gras to sardines and wine were good. The formula at lunch is 12.50 €.

Please post comments here and not in the Digest thread.

[John Talbott]

The Week of January 14th, 2008

Monday, in Le Fooding, Elvira Masson talked about her favorite charcutier (Gilles Vérot) on TV TF1 (Sunday Jan 20), in Paris (3 rue Notre-Dame des Champs in the 6th and 7 rue Lecourbe in the 15th) and New York (at Bar Boulud).

Tuesday in A Nous Paris, Jerome Berger awarded 4/5 blocks to La Bigarrade, 106, rue Nollet in the 17th 01.42.26.01.02, formulas at lunch 35 + 45, dinner 45 + 55 €, closed Saturday lunch and Sundays, serving raw encornets with sweet almond and cod with pumpkin puree as well as fresh cheese mousse; meanwhile Philippe Toinard gave 3/5 to La Bulle, 48, rue Louis Blanc in the 10th 01.40.37.34.51, menus at 25 and 30 €, closed Saturday lunch, Sundays and Monday night, where this safe harbor around the Gare de l’Est serves 5 big scallops with chestnuts, ostrich, risotto with cepes and rhubarb crumble. In the sidebar they talk of Jewish cooking lessons at Alef-Bet 25, rue Galande in the 5th, 01.40.18.17.22; a new fish place in the 1st with reasonable prices (23, 35 & 50 €), Les Embruns, 4, rue Sauval, 01.40.26.08.07, and the previously mentioned Quai Quai on the Ile de la Cite run by the group that has opened l’Altro + Lei.

Wednesday, Richard Hesse in Paris Update reviewed l’Oxilis, coordinates given before, where he liked the food but not the décor.

Wednesday, in Figaroscope’s “C’est nouveau” Emmanuel Rubin awarded 2/5 hearts to Quai-Quai, coordinates given before, with 17 and 21.50 formulas at lunch and 30-40 € a la carte, oeufs mayo, risotto with sorrel and spinach and a Clementine soufflé. Then came 4 one-hearters: the bobo Brit Food and Beverage, 14, rue Charlot in the 3rd, 01.42.78.02.31, closed Sundays for ravioli and entrecote costing about 35, menus at 27 and 32 €; La Cadole, 1, rue Mayet in the 6th, 01.47.83.70.05, closed Saturday and Sunday, with menus at 24 and 32 € for langoustine raviolis and boeuf bourguignon; the Japanese Hide in the 17th {CORRECTION, it's not Japanese at all but the Japanese chef cooks "traditional French cuisine}: and Misia, 5-7, rue du Commandant-Riviere in the 8th, 01.42.56.38.74, closed Saturday lunch and Sundays, with lunch formulas at 17 and 19 and menus at 25 and 32 € for sautéed petoncles and shrimp in curry, lamb with mashed potatoes and a marquise of chocolate.

This week’s “Dossier” was all about garlic:

Entrees

Jellyfish salad at Les Delices du Shandong

Snails with parsley at Toustem

Snails at l’Escargot Montorgueil

Palourdes at O Beirao

Octopus salad at Le Comptoir du Relais

Piquillos at Rosimar

Steamed vegetables with aioli at Vapeur Gourmande

Garlic soup at Brespail

Fish

Bourride at Le Sud

Cod with aioli at Fontaine de Mars

Brandade of cod at Le Soleil

Meat

Roast lamb at Le Basilac

Duck pie at Afaria

Sauteed beef at Kokohana

Pasta

Rigatoni at Corso.

For his part, Francois Simon went to La Marlotte for a brandade and dessert for 113.50 € with splitting the entrée and a Crozes-Hermitage. He says go. I say no.

Wednesday-Thursday, Jean Claude Ribaut had an article in Le Monde on the catering firm Potel et Chabot, in business since 1820.

Thursday, Philippe Couderc of NouvelObs also reviewed Ghislane Arabian and awarded it 15/20 for price quality. He also went back to Tante Marguerite where he found a menu-carte to be 47 € and rated it 14/20. Finally, he too visited Bigarrade awarding it 13-14/20 for good product and nice cooking.

Saturday, Francois Simon in Le Figaro, had a “Croque Notes” piece on Bigarrade, titling it “Yummy” and calling the menu at 45 € brilliant.

Saturday-Sunday, in Bonjour Paris, Margaret Kemp wrote an article on Murtoli in Southern Corsica and John Talbott an essay on “Surf & Turf.”

Edited to correct the statement that Hide was Japanese.

Please post comments here and not in the Digest thread.

Edited April 16, 2008 by John Talbott (log)

[John Talbott]

The Week of January 21st, 2008

Monday, in Le Fooding, Chloé Aeberhardt wrote up the bio resto Soya, 20, rue de la Pierre Levée in the 11th, 01 48 06 33 02, open Monday-Saturday 8 AM to 7 PM, formula at 11 € at lunch, serving everything from lentils to couscous with Gamay and a pineapple/kiwi/apple smoothie.

Tuesday in A Nous Paris, Philippe Toinard awarded 3/5 blocks to OJ, coordinates given elsewhere, run by an ex-Ledoyen see below, who has kept Wally the Saharian’s furnishings but changed the menu to a bistronomic one with pumpkin soup, cod with caramel passion and mixed fruit crumble (there are lots of supplements); meanwhile Jerome Berger went and gave 3/5 to the new Ghislaine Arabian place Les Petites Sorcieres, coordinates also given before, serving regional (eg Northern) food such as potjevlesch (a terrine of white meat in jelly) as well as other stuff – oeuf mayo, ray with capers and pintade.

Tuesday as well, François-Régis Gaudry reviewed the Ducassian-renovated Le Jules Verne, coordinates well-known where he had a 155 € menu, described in astronautic and show-biz terms and Andrea Petrini reviewed the Italian Osteria Valenti in Lyon.

Wednesday, Richard Hesse in Paris Update reviewed Racines, coordinates given before, where he sort of liked what food they had but hated the forced wine non-choices – calling them “the Emperor’s new clothes.”

Wednesday, in Figaroscope’s “C’est nouveau” Emmanuel Rubin awarded 2/5 hearts to Bigarrade, coordinates given before, with lunch formulas at 35 and 45 and 55 for dinner or about 60 € a la carte, serving “loft food” such as a terrine of oysters, pied de porc, scallops and little cream pots and the Italian Procopio Angelo in the 1st. Three places merited only one heart. They were: OJ, 4, rue Aime-Lavy in the 18th, 01.42.55.03.34, closed Sundays, running one about 40 € {OJ not standing for Mr. Simpson or orange juice but the chef – Olivier Jegousse} and serving a pumpkin soup, dorade and mixed fruit crumble; the “cantinette” Little Georgette, 9, impasse Gomboust in the 1st, 01.40.20.09.28, closed Sundays, running one about 25-30 € for paper-mache-like brandade of cod, duck with mashed potatoes and chocolate mousse; and the Cantine du 10, 8, rue Marseille in the10th, 01.43.49.27.67, open 7/7, running one about 20-30 (but a lunch formula at 14 €) for country paté, blanquette of veal and fromage blanc.

And this week, their “Dossier” was all about what they called Minirestos:

14 covers

Huitrerie Regis, Cabane aux Huitres + P’tit Casier

16 covers

Spring, Petit Vatel + Bonjour Vietnam

17 covers

Kaiseki

18 covers

l’Entracte

20 covers

Mercerie Mullot + Cantine Clandestina

24 covers

Temps au Temps

And for his part, Francois Simon went to Le Timbre for a salmon with lentils and dessert.

And sneaking in another small resto, this with 25 covers La Cerisaie, coordinates well-known, Sylvain Verut conducted an interview with Cyril and Maryse Lalanne.

Wednesday-Thursday, Jean Claude Ribaut had an article in Le Monde on Biarritz recommending the Hotel du Palais + Ahizpak.

Thursday, Philippe Couderc of NouvelObs also reviewed Le Dali too and awarded it 14/20 for food and 13-14/20 for price quality.

Thursday as well, the freebie ParuVendu had an article by Philippe Charles on “Eating lightly” that mentioned: Eat me in the 2nd, Bar a Soupes Giraudet in the 6th, A Toutes Vapeurs in the 8th, Bob’ Juice Bar in the 10th, Cuisine Fraich’Attitude in the 10th for cooking classes, Bar a Soupes in the 11th and Smoothie Time in the 13th as well as also rans: Bioart, Jour, La Guinguette a Vapeur, Supernature + Vapeur Gourmande.

Jean Louis Galesne visited Troyes and recommends the following:

Le Valentino, Le Bistroquet, Le Café de la Paix, Aux Crieurs de Vin, l’Hostellerie du Pont Sainte-Marie + l’Auberge de Sainte-Maure.

Saturday, Francois Simon in Le Figaro, had a “Croque Notes” piece that featured the missing of another star by the Bristol and the new restaurant - Le Dali at the Meurice. He also had an article on patisseries outside Paris that are worth the trip:

Bono + Jouvaud in Carpentras

Seve in Champagne au Mont d’Or

Croix-Rousse in Lyon

Hirsinger + Bannnwarth in Mulhouse

Gilg in Munster

Christophe Roussel in La Baule

Paries in St Jean de Luz

Maison Ferber in Niedermorschwihr

Meert in Lille

And, Alexandra Michot talks of places in Paris outside the “great names” of Angelina, Laduree, Fauchon, Lenotre, Dalloyau, Carette, Pierre Herme, Hevin + Aoki such as Des Gateaux et du Pain from an ex-Plaza Athenee, l’Ecureuil daughter of Ralf Edeler, Nathalie Robert + Didier Martray ex-Gagnaire and Exceptions Gourmandes by Philippe Conticini.

{Although I rarely mention non-French places}, a big article in the IHT Friday by Naomi Barry on an Afghan place The Afghanistan in the 11th, was so charming I thought it merited our attention.

Saturday-Sunday, in Bonjour Paris, Margaret Kemp wrote an article on Louis XIII + l’Evasion in London and John Talbott an essay on “Mixing the Courses.”

Sunday, in the JDD, Philippe Gauvreau of La Rotonde near Lyon reveals his preferred Parisian places for under 35 €: Caius + La Bastide Odeon.

Jane Sigal in this month’s Food & Wine writes about four “Value Eats” in Paris: new is Coco & Co the egg place, renovated is the Taverne Henri IV and oldies are l’Alsaco + l’Entredgeu.

Please post comments here and not in the Digest thread.

[John Talbott]

The Week of January 28th, 2008

Monday-Tuesday in A Nous Paris, Philippe Toinard awarded 3/5 blocks to the established place, the Pré Salé, coordinates given in the food guides and his colleague, Jerome Berger gave 3/5 to Alfred, 47, rue de Montpensier and 52, rue de Richelieu in the 1st, 01.42.97.54.40, formulas at 25 and 31 € {but it sounds like the items available on the formulas, marked with an asterisk, are pretty boring and one must order} a la carte about 55 €, closed Sunday and Monday, where despite OK braised veal and chocolate mousse the critic criticizes the bill.

Sometime, François-Régis Gaudry reviewed the Atelier du Sommelier, in Niederbronn-les-Bains.

Gogo Paris’s Francesca Unsworth reviewed the new bar food place next to Poilane, 8, rue du Cherche Midi in the 6th, 01.45.48.45.69, open 8.30am-7.30pm Tuesday-Saturday with a formula at lunch for 12.50 €).

Richard Hesse in Paris Update this Wednesday, reviewed that old favorite the Grand Colbert which he termed “vintage Paris, a tour operator’s dream,” providing “tandard bistro fare,…. very workaday, …..comfort-food.”

Wednesday, in Figaroscope’s “C’est nouveau” Emmanuel Rubin does one of his confusing things, featuring a one-heart restaurant first and with photo and intro text and putting a two-hearter in second position. The two-heart place is the Bistrot de Robert, 81, ave Bosquet in the 7th, 01.47.05.36.15, closed Monday and Tuesday, with menus at 19 and 24 €, where he sampled the terrine, brandade and rice pudding. His one heart places were: Marguerite, 50, rue de Clignancourt in the 17th, 01.42.51.66.18, closed Satrurday lunch and Sundays, with a 15 € formula at lunch, a la carte about 35 €, for sandre quenelles, scallops and an absinthe soufflé; the Italian Al Ristorante in the 7th; the bio-bo-naturo Soya, described last week in Le Fooding; and the Nepalese-tibetian Budha in the 6th.

This week, their “Dossier” was all about the new wave of Korean food:

New places

Guiibinre, Hangari, l’Arbre de sel, Samlin, Song Sang + Gong’s Dining

Store

Ace Mart

Classics

Woo Jung + Samo

And also

Ging Go Gae, Chez Maman, Kimchi, Han-Lin + Hyang-Ly

Of course Francois Simon helped out by going to Bibimbap in the 5th.

Thursday, Philippe Couderc of NouvelObs also reviewed La Méditerranée, coordinates well-known and awarded it 12-13/20 for food and 13/20 for price quality as well as Le 144 Petrossian, without a rating.

Saturday-Sunday, Francois Simon‘s “Croque Notes” was entitled “Return [letter] to sender” and discussed two places he revisited because of angry letters he got about prior reviews: the American touristy Chez Allard where he found his chicken massacred by a chain saw at his last meal and this time describes it was depressed and undercooked. His second was Cigale Recamier the soufflé place where again he found the soufflés bizarrely homogeneous albeit tasty and the service alternatively haughty and nice. He recommends angry readers instead of writing him, write the chefs.

And, Alexandra Michot et al rated prepared dishes bearing great chefs’ names sold in the supermarkets that ranged from J. Robuchon’s duck with mashed potatoes (14,5/20) to B. Loiseau’s duck leg with three pepper sauce (5). (Both articles are available on via hard copy or PDF until mid week when they’ll be posted on the web site.)

Saturday-Sunday, in Bonjour Paris, Margaret wrote an article on Ghislaine Arabian + Garnier and John Talbott an essay on “Average meals.”

Aurelie Chaigneau reported in JDD that the two favorite restos in Paris under 35 E for Christian Tetedoie are: Au Petit Riche + Le Grand Colbert. In addition, in the magazine supplement Version Femina Astrid T’Serclaes got Claude Lebey to give his favorite restos from Monday to Sunday as follows: Ze Kitchen Galerie, l’Epigramme, Pre Catalan, Cristal de sel, Auguste, Breizh Café + La Maree Denfert.

Please post comments here and not in the Digest thread.

[John Talbott]

The Week of February 4th, 2008

Monday-Tuesday, in ANP, the paper published four reviews, the largest rated ones meriting 4/5 blocks and written by Cedric Galonske: Cuisines et Confidences, 19 and 33, place du Marche Saint Honore in the 1st, 01.42.96.31.34, open everyday with continuous service 9-6 in winter and 9-10 in summer, has two spaces, a casual convivial New-York-like downstairs and a more confidential upstairs; they have 23 dishes running from 12-17 €, including meat and fish, sandwiches, vegetarian and kosher (weekends host three brunches); and Dix Sept, 92, rue Legendre in the 17th, 01.46.27.15.18, closed Sundays and Mondays, where everything (prices, numbers of dishes and wines, etc = 17), with products varying according to the season, such as foie gras, oeufs cocotte with girolles, squid a la plancha, etc. Meanwhile Philippe Toinard gave 3/5 blocks to Le Cotte Roti, 1, rue de Cotte in the 12th, 01.43.45.06.37, formulas at 25 and 30 € for cream of artichoke and tartare of scallops, rascasse and confited clementines; and Jerome Berger also gave 3/5 blocks to Le Village, 14, rue des Moines in the 17th, 01.58.59.12.15, closed for food Sundays, with lunch formulas from 12-18.50 and dinner at 32 €, which he describes as a cantine plus wine cellar, serving food such as samosas of black sausage, salmon and rice pudding.

Wednesday, in Figaroscope, Emmanuel Rubin’s C’est nouveau awarded 4 2-heart ratings to: BAM, 13, rue Lavandieres Sainte Opportune in the 1st, 01.42.21.01.72, closed Sunday and Monday for dinner, with lunch menus at 15 and 18, dinner at 29, a la carte 35 €, serving tuna carpaccio, crème Dubarry and marinated beef; l’Idee, 52, ave de la Porte de Villiers in Levallois-Perret, 01.41.05.05.35, closed Sunday lunch and Mondays, costing about 30-40 € for lasagna with eggs and chestnuts and a hamburger Rossini; Les Bouchons Jean Pierre et Philippe, 7, rue du Boccador in the 8th, 01.47.23.57.80, closed Saturday lunch and Sundays, menu at 21 and a la carte about 40 € for papaya remoulade, smoked eel and veal chop; Dix Sept coordinates above, serving shrimp in squid ink pasta, cod and a moelleux au chocolat. A busted heart went to Le Vin Qui Danse, 4, rue des Fosses St Jacques in the 5th, 01.43.54.80.81, open everyday, serving a cheese plate and sad been tartare for about 25 €.

The week’s Dossier concerned itself with St Valentine’s day places:

From 100 €:

La Marlotte, Bistrot de la Muette, Chez Karl & Erick, Le Maxan, Bayan, Black Calvados + Au Gourmand

Under 150 €:

l’Arome, Bon, Café Faubourg, Les Saveurs de Flora, Le Murano Urban Resort + Les Ombres

150 €+:

Mori Venice Bar. La Table Lancaster, le Dali, l’Hotel, Le Celadon, La Maison Blanche + Laurent

And Francois Simon went to La Table de Fabrice for 149 € for two.

Wednesday-Thursday, Jean Claude Ribaut wrote an article on the artists of the new generation, singling out: Christophe Pelé from the Royal Monceau to open La Bigarrade, Gaël Orieux from Le Meurice to Auguste, André Le Letty ex of La Tour d'Argent + l'Anacréon now at Le Beato and David Zuddas, formerly with Jean-Paul Jeunet in Arbois, now at L'Auberge de la Charme near Dijon, a founding member of “Generation C.” In a related article in Wednesday’s Directmatinplus, Ribaut discusses the fate of Nouvelle Cuisine circa 1970, mentioning many of the above but also Cyril Lignac’s TV show on M6 as an example of the post-2000 “Le Fooding” movement, more on Omnivore’s support of “Generation C’s” founders: Gilles Choukroun, (Ferran Adria) + Thierry Marx, the high end places preferred by Americans – le Crillon, Cinq, Grand Vefour, Taillevent + Meurice as well as the “Masters” of Today: Ducasse, Robuchon, Savoy, Gagnaire, Passard + Alleno. With the chains (Clement, etc), brasseries and bistros, ethnic places and honorable places offering sure values, his conclusion seems to be summed up in the last sentence – “Who can complain?”

Friday, Jean Louis Galesne in Les Echos wrote that he really liked Bigarade, was lukewarm (specifically didn’t think he was esbaudi "entertained, happy, in an extreme state of hilarity" (Trans: a friend)) about G. Arabian’s Sorcieres and said hardly anything nice about Le Dali.

Saturday-Sunday in Le Figaro, Francois Simon’s “Croque-Notes” dealt with another starred resto out of town: Aux Terrasses in Tournus.

Saturday/Sunday, in Bonjour Paris, John Talbott had an essay on “Good honest food” and Margaret Kemp one on the Jules Verne.

Sunday’s NYT Travel Section had an article by Ellen Kaye on Tavel and rosé that recommends Restaurant la Genestière.

Please post comments here and not in the Digest thread.

[John Talbott]

The Week of February 11th, 2008

Monday-Tuesday, in ANP, Jerome Berger gave 3/5 blocks to the neo-bistrot l’Entetee coordinates given before which he liked so much for the food (boudin noir, impeccable cappuccino of mushrooms and caramelized apple) and prices; and Philippe Toinard gave 3/5 blocks to Quai-quai, coordinates also given before, which also was good, simple and didn’t exhaust his credit card with boeuf bourgignonb, lieu and coffee soufflé.

A week ago, l’Express had an article on foreign chefs/owners in France, singling out Willi’s Wine Bar, Maceo, Le Timbre, Stella Maris, La Gazzetta, Liza, Spring + Indigo Square in Bagnolet. Then a bit later Francois-Regis Gaudry suggested several places for Valentines Day – Laperouse + 1728 in Paris and Le Temps de Vivre, Les Terrasses + Le Ryad in Roscoff, Uriage les Bains and Marseille, respectively.

Wednesday, in Figaroscope, Emmanuel Rubin’s C’est nouveau awarded only 1 2-heart to M comme Martine, 33, rue Cardinet in the 17th, 01.43.80.63.60, closed Sunday and Monday with menus at 24 (lunch) and 32, a la carte 40-50 €, serving poached egg with an onion fondue, tete de veau, nems and a lemon tart. One heart each went to Bernard du 15, 62, rue des Entrepreneurs in the 15th, 01.40.59.09.27, closed Saturday lunch, Sundays and Monday lunch, menus at 23 (lunch) and 33, a la carte 40 € for shrimp, tete de veau (overcooked) and vanilla millefeuille; Le Payenke, 8, rue Paul Henri Grauwin in the 12th, 01.49.28.05.42, closed Sunday lunch, servingshrip, chicken and banana with caramel sauce; and a local Bobo folk sandwich/tartine place Mems, 1, rue de Marseille in the 10th, 01.42.06.32.31, open everyday, costing 20-30 a la carte and 18 € for brunch. Finally he awarded a busted heart to Chez Patrick, 48-50, rue de Verneuil in the 7th, 01.42.86.81.87, closed Sundays, costing 30-50 €, serving most memorably an al dente rice pudding.

The week’s Dossier was all about “American” hamburger places that they rated:

16/20 Scoop

15 PDG

14.5 Coffee Parisien

14 Floors + Café Salle Pleyel

13 Play House

12.5 Le Millenium

12 Link + Drugstore Publicis

11 La Grande Armee

10.5 Pub St Germain

10 Joe Allen + Bar du Prince de Galles

9 McDonalds

8 l’Empire du Ville

7 Saut du Loup

3 Quick

Francois Simon went to the aforementioned Bar du Prince de Galles which he says to go to but not for the 27 € burger.

Wednesday as well in Paris Update, Richard Hesse favorably reviewed Au Veil Ami, coordinates well-known.

Wednesday-Thursday, Jean Claude Ribaut wrote an article in Le Monde on the traveling chefs: ie Robuchon, Ducasse, Savoy, the Pourcels, Gagnaire, Vongerichten and Boulud.

Friday, Jean Louis Galesne in Les Echos wrote about classic winter dishes at established places:

La Brasiere for hachis parmentier (veal & duck)

Petit Verdot for ox tail stew

La Ferrandaise for blanquette

l’AOC for cote de bœuf and

Au Petit Theatre for pied de cochon.

The weekend FT had an article by Nick Lander on Herve This and Lena & Mimile.

Saturday-Sunday in Le Figaro, Francois Simon’s “Croque-Notes” essentially dealt with the astounding prices at the Meurice, 600 € a couple for dinner, affordable only by rich business men and tourists as well as the panic that set in when the rumor surfaced that Grand Vefour + Arpege might lose a star.

Saturday/Sunday, in Bonjour Paris, Margaret Kemp had an update on Les Ombres and John Talbott had an essay on “Great Expectations.”

Please post comments here and not in the Digest thread.

[John Talbott]

The Week of February 18th, 2008

Monday in Le Fooding, Chloé Aeberhardt discussed Lao Lane Xang 2, 102 avenue d'Ivry in the 13th, 01 58 89 00 00, closed Wednesdays, with a lunch menu at 10,80 €, count on 20–25 € à la carte for items such as a croustillant rice salad, lacquered duck with tamarind red curry sauce and bar with lime.

Monday-Tuesday, in ANP, Philippe Toinard gave 3/5 blocks to L’Idee, coordinates given before, where instead of a long menu, the chef chooses what to cook depending on the market, and Jerome Berger also gave 3/5 blocks to Gustave et Jules, 12, rue Edouard Lockroy in the 11th, 01.43.55.54.29, open everyday from 6 PM to 2 AM, a la carte about 25 €, which he describes as a zinc where one drinks a lot and eats a little.

Wednesday, in Figaroscope, Emmanuel Rubin’s C’est nouveau awarded three hearts to the Laotian-Thai-Vietnamese-Chinese Lao Lane Xang 2, coordinates above whose food he calls suave and deliciously abrasive and two hearts to l’Entetee, coordinates given before, whose dishes he thought were amusing but a bit showy. One heart each went to Mets & Vins, 14, rue Saussier Leroy in the 17th, 01.42.27.64.58, closed Sundays, which is pretty much what it says it is – charcuterie and cheese starting at 15 € depending on the wine; and the Japanese sushi/curry/ravioli place Nagoya in the 6th. A broken heart was awarded to the Caffe Minotti in the 7th, whose new team has made an old place worse, pricey and pathetic.

Figaroscope’s Dossier this week had as its premise the three hot food streets:

Paul Bert:

Bistrot Paul Bert, Ecailler du Bistrot, Unico, Le Temps au temps, La Cocotte, Crus & Decouvertes + Chardenoux

Rebeval:

Valentin, Zoe Bouillon, Mon Oncle Vigneron, O. Bon. Home, Mukura + Chapeau Melon

St Dominique:

Le Violin d’Ingres, Café Constant, Les Fables de la Fontaine, Les Cocottes + La Fontaine de Mars,

that Francois Simon went to and declared worth going to for what it costs to eat in a bistro today – 121 € for two.

A side box discussed places in Saint Germain:

La bocca della Verita, Boo, Le Lup, Maison Georgienne, Coco & Co + Les Valseuses.

Wednesday as well, Richard Hesse in Paris Update reviewed Le Repaire de Cartouche favorably for the food but guardedly for the waitstaff.

Wednesday-Thursday, Jean Claude Ribaut wrote an enquete on eggs in all their forms from powdered to omelettes in Le Monde.

Thursday, Francois Regis Gaudry in L’Express wrote about two places who coordinates are well-known: the Table de Joel Robuchon, whose club menu at lunch with an entrée, plat, cheese, dessert, café, mignardises, mineral water and ½ wine bottle come to 55 €; and Versance which he calls the antithesis of Bigarrade this month’s hot place, for the same price. His colleague, Pierrick Jegu, tried two other places whose coordinates have been given: Gustav + Jules which he indicates has nice wine but also good bistro food; and Chapeau Melon which has natural wines and “Top Top” food that’s more than convincing.

Thursday, Philippe Couderc in Paris Obs revisited the old haunt La Grille in the 10th where he gave it 14/20 and the more ancient Pied de Cochon, mythic Les Halles place open 24/24 {where I went really late or early for the classical onion soup and was most disappointed – I know, I know}.

Friday, Jean Louis Galesne in Les Echos wrote up five new restaurants in Paris: the first, Les Parisiens, ex-Amogenes, will open in a bit, the others have just opened and include: a jazz-club-café-restaurant, the Duc des Lombards, 42, rue des Lombards in the 1st, 01.42.33.22.88, open every day, running one about 35 € with a Michelin-star chef Alain Alexanian, from Lyon’s L'Alexandrin serving light plates at lunch, such as daurade on Jerusalem artichoke with nut milk and artichoke sauce and rutabaga raviolis with red beans and girolles and at night little plates as well (but I take it different); a Japanese place Kaiseki Bento in the 8th; L'Entêtée coordinates and descriptions above, where he thinks she’s still finding her way; and Au Relais des Buttes, 86, rue Compans in the 19th, 01.42.08.24.70, closed Saturday lunch and Sundays, menu = 34 €, a la carte 60 with a new chef from Villaret + Le Soleil, serving crab stuffed with morilles, veal kidneys with tarragon and profiteroles {I’ll be posting my review shortly.}

Saturday’s Figaro contained a full page orchestrated by Francois Simon. The biggest space was allocated to an article, summarized here that started on its first page about “who merits three Michelin stars.” Then oddly enough, in his “Croque Notes,” he discussed one of these places which eventually will be promoted - Le Petit Nice in Marseille, maybe in the next Michelin, to appear in ten days. It’s not entirely complementary; he comments on the appearance of too many amuse bouches, a piling on of plates that three stars feel are necessary, thus taking an hour to reach the entrée. Simon thought that while the rougets were fresh, they were too fussily prepared and there was no flash of lightning. He says that the chef, Passedat, does better with simple dishes rather than try fancy stuff that dulls the effect. He doesn’t give prices except for the main course’s bass costing 77 €. Also, of note, in the accompanying article he implies that Le Petit Nice was chosen so that the Michelin could have a place between Eugenie Les Bains and Monte Carlo, now that the Pourcel’s have flopped.

Saturday/Sunday, in Bonjour Paris, Margaret Kemp reviewed l’Endroit and John Talbott had an essay on “What do Americans want?”

Sunday, in JDD, Pierre Orsi of the eponymous resto in Lyon picked La Coupole + Le Pere Claude as his favorite places in Paris for under 35 € {even though they clearly show that Le Pere Claude costs 60 € before liquids). And in their Femina magazine, Astrid de T’Serclaes went to Les Petites Sorcieres.

In February’s Paris Notes “Paris Bites,” Rosa Jackson writes positively about several places serving winter stuff, especially veggies, such as: La Bastide Odéon, La Marlotte, Les Saveurs de Flora, Le Soleil, La Crèmerie + Racines.

Please post comments here and not in the Digest thread.

[John Talbott]

The Week of February 25th, 2008

A bit back, our members Adrian Moore and Meg Zimbeck, in Gridskipper provided a year end review of Paris cuisine that included: for last year (first listed); and this (next listed):

The Most Buzz: Spring, Le Chateaubriand + Hidden Kitchen; Afaria, Racines + Il Vino;

Most Overrated: Jules Verne, La Tour d'Argent + Buddha-Bar; Apicius, Le Voltaire + Brasserie Lipp;

Best Dining Neighborhood: rue Paul Bert (Bistrot Paul Bert, L'Ecailler du Bistrot, le Temps au Temps, Unico, rue des Martyrs (Spring, Rose Bakery, Les Papilles Gourmands, + Hotel Amour; the 15th arrondissement (Le Troquet, Le Grand Pan, La Beurre Noisette, L'Os à Moelle),; and the rue Rébeval (Chapeau Melon, Mon Oncle Vigneron, Sushiya, Chez Valentin + Le Baratin).

Best Expensive Dinner Over €100: Le Meurice, Taillevent + Michel Rostang; le Pré Catelan, Ledoyen + Les Magnolias.

Best Three-Course Meal Around €40: Relais du Comptoir, L'Ami Jean, Les Papilles + Le Baratin; Afaria, L'Arome, La Gazetta + Chapeau Melon.

Best Cheap Meal Under €15: L'As du Fallafel, Bar à Soupes + Le Cambodge; Breizh Café, Bob's Juice Bar + Maria Luisa.

Best Vegetarian: Arpège, Les Allobroges; Mon Vieil Ami, Maceo.

Best Local Food & Dining Website: the eGullet France Forum, Chocolate & Zucchini, Dorie Greenspan, and David Lebowitz; Le Fooding, Chrisoscope, Simon Says! and Ms. Glaze.

Monday-Tuesday, in ANP, Jerome Berger, in conjunction with the Salon d’Agriculture, presented a compendium of restaurants that serve “terroir” food:

Little garden vegetables:

Racines, Au Gourmand + Vapeur Gourmande

Veal Liver

Le Cameleon, La Ferrandaise + Le Grand Pan

Beef

Severo, l’Evasion + Devez

Fish and Shellfish

21, Maree Denfert + La Cabane a Hiuitres.

Wednesday, in Figaroscope, Emmanuel Rubin had a tough week for C’est nouveau – awarding one heart each to 5 places: the Japanese Kaiseki in the 8th; Chez Gustave, 56, rue de la Federation in the 15th, 01.45.66.09.01, open everyday, menus at 12 and 25, a la carte 25-35 €, for oeufs mayo, bavette and fresh pineapple; Gustave & Jules, coordinates given before but Rubin says its open everyday and says it costs 20 € for charcuteries, cheese and one plat du jour; Le Petit Nicois, coordinates well-known but under the hands of a new team, with menus at 25 and 31, a la carte 45-50 € for fatally out of season stuffed tomatoes and zucchinis, not bad raviolis of confited rabbit and onions and an acceptable apple tart; and Rival Deluxe, 3, ave Matignon in the 8th, 01.42.89.64.72, open everyday costing 30-45 € for a tuna tartare and avocado, cappuccino of chestnuts, shrimp with salt and pepper and an OK cheeseburger.

Figaroscope’s Dossier this week was all about cocktails:

17/20 A juanito at the Meurice

16.5 A Bombay-New York at Hotel Fouquet’s Barriere

16 A benderitter at the Hotel Ritz

16 A chancy cocktail at the Renaissance Paris Vendome

15.5 A born wild at the Murano Urban Resort

15.5 A George fizz at the Four Seasons Hotel George V

14.5 An innovation at the Hotel Plaza Athenee

14 A janick at the Hotel Westminster

13 A cocktail du jour at the Hotel Park Hyatt Vendome

13 A mojito at the Hotel Raphael

12 A cypress at the Hotel Bristol

12 Two Saint-Valentin glasses of champagne at the Hotel Lutetia which was also Francois Simon’s Hache Menu – for 36 €.

9 Regular champagne at the Hotel Montalembert.

Wednesday as well, Richard Hesse in Paris Update went to Vintage, 46, rue d’Argout in the 2nd, 01 40 26 57 54 open every day with a menu at 15, a la carte 25-30 € where he says they take both their natural wines and cooking seriously and he liked the fish firsts and meat mains.

Wednesday-Thursday, in Le Monde, Jean Claude Ribaut wrote an article on olive oil from around the world (France, Chili, Italy, Corsica, etc), some of the chefs who use it and some places to buy it.

Saturday’s Figaro contained a full page on Taste with Francois Simon “Croque Notes,” devoted to the death of Georges Paineau, chef of the Relais et Chateau Le Bretagne. Alongside, Alexandra Michot wrote of good eating in ski resorts: Le Chabichou, Le Bateau Ivre, Il Vino + Pierre Gagnaire (and soon Alain Ducasse) at Courcheval and Les Enfants Terribles, Les Flacons de Sel + Le Bistrot de Megeve at Megeve, Marc Veyrat having departed.

Saturday/Sunday, in Bonjour Paris, John Talbott had an essay on “Back to Boboville” and Margaret Kemp one on the Bizan.

That same weekend, in FT, Nicholas Lander wrote about his last meals at Taillevent + Le Relais, both most warmly.

March’s Saveur featured an article by our own Clotilde Dusoulier on butter as used by Benoit Bordier, written while he was still at Jean.

Please post comments here and not in the Digest thread.

Edited March 5, 2008 by John Talbott (log)

[John Talbott]

The Week of March 3rd, 2008

Monday, in Le Fooding, Chloé Aeberhardt reviewed a pizza place La Briciola, 64 rue Charlot in the 3rd, 01 42 77 34 10.

Monday and Tuesday, Francois Simon’s blog in French and Adrian Moore’s posting on Gridskipper in English have detailed the Michelin 2008’s decisions and provided the link to their site, pretty accurately reflecting speculation on our topic on the subject.

Monday-Tuesday, in ANP, (courtesy of Felice/Phyllis,) Jerome Berger awarded 3/5 blocks to Temps au Temps, coordinates in the guidebooks, where he liked the cappuccino of escargots, Pyrenees lamb and rice pudding on their 30 € menu-carte; meanwhile, Philippe Toinard only gave 2/5 to La Cantine du 10e, coordinates given before, where he had raviolis, a blanquette of veal and oranges in syrup.

Wednesday, in Figaroscope, Emmanuel Rubin gave the lead and photo but only one heart in C’est nouveau to the jazz-resto Le Duc des Lombards, coordinates already given, where for 40 € one can get crab soup with quenelles, vapeured anglefin and carp brandade. However, he awarded two hearts to the place replacing Les Ormes/Bellecoeur, new name Le Petit Bordelais, costing 40-60 € for crab and guacamole, blanquette, scallops and roast pear. Other one hearts went to Bistrot Poulbot, 39 rue Lamarck in the 18th, 01.46.06.86.00, closed Sundays and Mondays, serving a carpaccio of beets and chicken livers, pot au feu, risotto of scallops and a whiskey-mandarine soufflé for 30-40 € (lunch menu = 17; dinner 29 & 34) and two Italian places: La Cantinella + La Briciola in the 7th and 3rd respectively.

This week, Figaroscope’s Dossier dealt with duck in all its forms:

Foie gras mi-cuit at La Maison Courtine

Confit at Le Domaine de Lintillac and Le Bistrot de l’Oulette.

Laquered duck at Chez Vong

Crème brulee au foie gras at the Salon d’Helene

Magret at the Petit Canard

Chichons at Afaria

A petit sale at l’Assiette

Hearts at the J’Go St-Germain

Tongues at the Imperial Choisy

And Francois Simon in his Hache Menu had a wicked rotisseried duck at La Rôtisserie du Beaujolais for 134 € which he says is the only reason to go.

Wednesday-Thursday, Jean Claude Ribaut in Le Monde talked of the inequalities of the just-released Michelin, mentioning the first (expected) elevation to three stars of a resto in Marseille (Le Petit Nice), the demotion of Guy Martin’s Grand Véfour, the restoration of Marc Meneau’s stars at L'Espérance and the unjust omission of la Grande Cascade + Laurent, two delicate and remarkable places in Paris. His second article talks of the Petit Nice and chef Gérald Passédat (47 years old), grandson of the founder of the same name, trained with/at Troisgros, Michel Guérard, le Bristol, + Ferran Adria, and his concept(s) of cooking.

Wednesday as well, Caroline Mignot this week reviewed Opus Vins, 72 rue Vasco de Gama in the 15th, 01 42 50 14 91, lunch menu costs 20 € for three courses or 17,50 € for two; evening for four = 30 € for celery soup, deconstructed andouillette de chez Bobosse and a clementine millefeuille.

Thursday, in the Nouvel’Obs, Philippe Couderc also reviewed the Petit Bordelais, 22, rue Surcouf in the 7th (the ex-Les Ormes space) 01-45-51-46-93, where menus are 28-33 €, a la carte 40-57 and the cuisine and price-quality rated 16/20; where the Bordeaux chef serves up a Sémillon jelly with foie gras, crab with guacamole, parmesan risotto and scallops, an entrecote and a feuilleté with vanilla cream.

In Saturday’s Figaro Francois Simon “Croque Notes,” raved about a 89 Euro meal for two served up by the Japanese-born but Jean Bardet-trained Naoto Kitamura at Grannie, 27, rue Pierre Leroux in the 7th, 01.47.34.94.14 with few seats but five starters, five mains and five desserts; traditional stuff with interesting flavors such as: ecrevisses risotto, foie gras, salmon with red wine sauce, mashed potatoes with an herbed veal knuckle and duck breast with a sweet-sour teriyaki sauce.

Saturday/Sunday, in Bonjour Paris, Margaret Kemp had articles on the Michelin and Pierre Herme.

March’s Paris Notes featured a review by Rosa Jackson in her “Paris Bites” of Il Vino.

March’s Gourmet had an article by Colman Andrews on Cannes, reviewing La Plage l’Ondine and one on the Jura by Jack Turner recommending: Le Bon Acceuil, Jean-Paul Jeunet + La Comedie.

Please post comments here and not in the Digest thread.

[John Talbott]

The Week of March 10th, 2008

Monday-Tuesday, in ANP, Philippe Toinard reviewed Bistro Poulbot, coordinates given before where he approves of the division of the carte between grandmother’s food (andouille, veal kidneys) and more contemporary stuff (scallops risotto and whisky soufflé.) Jerome Berger, in conjunction with the Salon d’Agriculture, presented a compendium of restaurants that serve “terroir” food:

Little garden vegetables:

Racines, Au Gourmand + Vapeur Gourmande

Veal Liver

Le Cameleon, La Ferrandaise + Le Grand Pan

Beef

Severo, l’Evasion + Devez

Fish and Shellfish

21, Maree Denfert + La Cabane a Hiuitres.

Wednesday, Richard Hesse in Paris Update reviewed Monjul, 28, rue des Blancs Manteaux in the 4th, 01 42 74 40 15, closed Sundays and Mondays, menu at 29€. He calls it both an "incredibly good value-for-money price" and an "unusually fine dining experience," where he enjoyed the amuse bouche of smoked mackerel rillettes and ruby-red pepper stuffed with fresh tuna; the entrees of beef tartare, foie gras/pumpkin/yogurt; mustard coated rabbit with orange sauce and makis of beef; lychee pastry and chocolate mousse.

Wednesday, in Figaroscope, Emmanuel Rubin awarded four restaurants two hearts: the Japanese Youlin in the 5th; La Maison de la Truffe, 18, place de la Madeleine in the 8th, 01.42.65.53.22, closed Sundays, running one 60-80 € for scallops ceviche with truffles, eggs with truffles, risotto with….. and strawberry tart, recently reprised by the Kaspia folks nearby; Le Temps au Temps, coordinates given before, where a new team recently took over and he only mentions the bar and rice pudding; and Le Messager, 28, rue du General Bertrand in the 7th, 01.47.34.30.26, closed Sundays where for 30-35 € for a terrine, foie gras, beef cheeks and a pot au crème. The final place reviewed was the one-heart Thai Thai Time in the 12th.

This week, Figaroscope’s Dossier dealt with sole at several well-known places, rating them as follows:

9/10 Les Fables de la Fontaine

8.5 Garnier

8 Chez Georges

7 35º Ouest

6.5 Le Dome

6.5 Chez les Anges

6 Le Bar a Huitres

5.5 Rech

5 Bofinger

And also Bistrot St Ferdinand + Auberge Dab.

And Francois Simon in his Hache Menu at La Maree, had a sole for two at 120 (the water was 16) and whose total - 233 € - would have been worth it, if it had been 233 French francs.

Wednesday-Thursday, Jean Claude Ribaut in Le Monde wrote about the effort at UNESCO to declare French cuisine an “immaterial patrimony” not unlike safeguarding architectural and country patrimonious sites. (For those wishing a nice article in English on the issue and designation, I would refer you to member Alexander Lobrano’s article.

Last Wednesday, in l’Express Yves Nespoulous reviewed Grand Appetit, 9, rue de la Cerisaie in the 4th, 01-40-27-04-95 about 10-20 E for a macrobiotic experience. Then, this week, François-Régis Gaudry reviewed Lao Lane Xang 2, coordinates given before; while Andrea Petrini reviewed the huge Renzo Piano designed 33 Cité in Lyon.

Thursday, in the Nouvel’Obs, Philippe Couderc reviewed La Bonne Vie in the 6th which he gave a 12/20 to for its Georgian cuisine.

Friday, in Les Echos, Jean Louis Galesne reviewed Korean places that included: Woo Jung, Seoul, Myung K, Bong + Sobane.

In Saturday’s Figaro Francois Simon wrote both a huge article and his “Croque Notes,” about Gordon Ramsey’s move to the Trianon Palace in Versailles.

Saturday-Sunday’s JDD had the usual starred chef’s two favorites in Paris: in this case Patrice Caillault of La Domaine de Rochevilaine picking l’Epigramme in the 6th and Le Mandalay in Levallois-Perret. In addition, Astrid T’Serclaes reviewed the existing Hier & Aujourd’hui in the 17th and the new Le Machon, 16, rue Commines in the 3rd, 01.42.74.57.09, lunch menus at 14 and 17 €, evening menus 24 and 28 €, run by two guys who love food such as tete de veau, kidneys with mustard, lamb, Salers beef, clafoutis, crème brulee, etc.

Saturday/Sunday, in Bonjour Paris, Margaret Kemp had an article of Il Vino + Vin Chai Moi and John Talbott had two articles on the “No English Spoken” and “Why Do I do it?”.

Please post comments here and not in the Digest thread.

Edited March 18, 2008 by John Talbott (log)

[John Talbott]

The Week of March 17th, 2008

Monday-Tuesday, in ANP, Jerome Berger reviewed Lao Lane Xang 2 coordinates given before and his sidekick Philippe Toinard did Le Petit Bordelais ditto for coordinates, where he mildly critiques the place for too much emphasis on Bordeaux wines – which of course is its theme.

Wednesday, Richard Hesse in Paris Update reviewed two established couscous places Le Clair de Lune + Chez Omar in the 2nd and 3rd respectively.

Wednesday, in Figaroscope, Emmanuel Rubin awarded only one resto two hearts: Les Cotelettes, 4, impasse Guemenee in the 4th, 01.42.72.08.45, closed Saturday lunch, Sundays and Mondays, where the Benard group (Les Zingots + Que du Bon) serve a 15 € lunch formula (a la carte is 35-50 €) with dishes such as: mackerel in white wine sauce, minced duck with ginger, andouillette made with white wine and mixed fruit dessert. He awarded one heart to three places: Les Rustres, 9 rue Antoine Vollon in the 12th, 01.43.47.18.01, closed Saturday lunch and Sundays, running one about 35-45 € a la carte for a salad with haddock, onglet with shallots and prunes in Armagnac; the Café Barjot, 18, ave Ledru-Rollin in the 12th, 01.43.43.46.07, open 7/7 serving a 13 € lunch formula and a la carte about 30 € for a terrine, blanqueete of veal and crepes; and The Cool, 13, rue Medicis in the 6th, 01.43.25.21.81, open 7/7, serving a brunch plate, eggs Benedict and lemon tart. A broken heart went to 23 Mazarine, 23, rue Mazarine in the 6th, 01.43.26.40.24, closed Sundays and Mondays and costing 26 for a lunch formula and 50-60 € a la carte for shrimp and guacamole, filet of beef and asparagus and morel dessert (not funny).

This week, in Figaroscope’s Dossier, Colette Monsat rated 11 jambon-buerre sandwiches as follows:

15.5/20 Creperie du Comptoir

14 Comptoir de la Gastronomie

13 Rene Saint Ouen

12.5 Au Panetier

12 Gourmet Gourmand

11.5 La Fournee d’Augustine, Julien + Fauchon

10.5 Gosselin + Boulanger de Monge

10 Boulangerie Lame, Moisan, Delmontel + Au pain quotidien

9.5 Stohrer + Au Petrin d’Antin

9 Boulangerie des Invalides

8.5 Duc de ll Chapelle

7.5 Au Levain du Marais + Paul

7 Class’Croute

5 Kayser

4.5 Pomme de Pain

And Francois Simon in his Hache Menu at La Maree, had a sandwich and two cappuccinos for 17 €, and says to go.

Thursday in ParisObs, Philippe Couderc reviewed 23 Mazarine, coordinates given above, but as opposed to Emmanuel Rubin, who gave it a busted heart, he awarded it 14/20 for the food and 13/20 for quality-price. He also visited two places demoted by the Michelin being puzzled because he thought Le Grand Vefour was an 18/20 and Le Duc 17-18/20.

Friday, Jean Louis Galesne in Les Echos wrote up restaurants in Chantilly that included: Dolce Chantilly, l’hotel Chateau Mont Royal, l’Auberge de la Grange, l’Open House, Le Goutillon + l’English Shop, the last a tea salon.

In Saturday’s Figaro Francois Simon wrote an article about two places worlds apart – Taillevent + le Rollin, 92, ave Ledru-Rollin in the 11th, 01.48.06.51.92, closing days not given. He says that despite the loss of a star and Jean-Claude Vrinat, life goes on at the former where much is the same but he made an error in ordering the 70 € menu (scallops OK, cod not, sable with fraises des bois stingy). At the latter he describes the chef as working lovingly to prepare the entrecote and cod (again, this time good) on a 13 € menu (the price of two coffees at Taillevent).

Saturday-Sunday’s JDD had the usual starred chef’s two favorites in Paris: in this case Philippe Auge of l’Hostellerie de Levernois picking Karl et Erick + l’Ampere. In addition, there was yet another article on Gordon Ramsay’s take/make-over of the Trianon Palace. Finally, in the version Femina mag, Astrid T’Serclaes interviewed Alain Ducasse about his favorite markets. He prefers:

Japanese patisserie Toraya

Japanese epicerie Kyoko

Japanese deluxe cantine Hanawa

Fine Spanish epicerie Jabuge & Co

Universal epicerie Le Monde des Epices aka M. Izrael

Chinese market Paris Store.

Saturday/Sunday, in Bonjour Paris, Margaret Kemp had an article on Copenhague and the Crillon and John Talbott had one on “The Sunday Lunch Blues”.

Please post comments here and not in the Digest thread.

[John Talbott]

The Week of March 24th, 2008

Monday in Le Fooding, Alexandre Cammas reviewed Froggy’s in Montreuil-sur-mer, the second resto of who also runs La Genouillère.

Tuesday-Wednesday, in ANP, Philippe Toinard had a full page piece on the winner of the Best Baguette in 2008 – Anis Bouabsa of the Duc de la Chapelle in the 18th.

Wednesday, Richard Hesse in Paris Update reviewed Chez Michel and found the staff and cooking lacking.

Wednesday, in Figaroscope, Emmanuel Rubin awarded three places two hearts: Jean, in the 9th, coordinates in the guides, where the menus now are 65 and 85 and a la carte costs 40-70 € for lentil risotto, Auvergne ham, scallops with quinoa and a chic milk-shake; the Japanese Au Comptoir Nippon in the 15th and La Veraison, 64, rue de la Croix Nivert in the 15th, 01.45.32.39.39 closed Sunday and Mondays, serving morue tartare, pigs’ feet on salad and a blanquette of veal on menus costing 15 and 26 – a la carte about 30-35 €. He awarded one heart only to Le Living Room, 5, rue Crillon in the 4th, 01.42.78.12.69, closed Sundays, serving evenings such food as tartines, wine by the glass and Italian charcuterie. Finally a busted heart went to Toi, 27, rue du Colisee in the 8th, 01.42.56.56.58, open everyday, costing 40-50 € where he says to bring your Maalox for the sautéed escargots, tartare three ways and morille risotto.

This week, in Figaroscope’s Dossier, the gang listed and described business lunches under an hour as follows:

Right Bank

Pinxo

Au Gourmand

Drouant

Carre des Vosges

Le Taste Monde

Cafe Lumiere

Chez Georges

Also Maceo, Maxan, Terrasse Mirabeau + Why Not.

Left Bank

Le Six Odeon

L’Agassin

Le Bistrot de l’Alycastre

Les Ombres

Il Vino

Maree Denfert

Also La Maison Courtine + Thierry Burlot

Haute Gastronomy

Laurent

Taillevent

Carre des Feuillants

Jules Verne

Bar meals

Le 228

Tuileries

Vendome

Montalembert

Le Bar

Lounge W

Le Lucien.

Francois Simon in his Hache Menu went to Les Saveurs de Flora, where one person had the 38 € menu with octopus salad and a pastille and the other a scallop tart for 35 and bar at 48 €, totaling 143 with no wine but two 7 € Chateldons and two 4 € coffees.

Thursday, in ParisObs, Philippe Couderc reviewed Grannie, 27, rue Pierre-Leroux in the 7th, 01.47.34.94.14, which he describes as a wine bar between Japan and France, with a 2-course menu at 23 €, menu 32 €, serving dishes such as duck breast teriyaki and lacquered wild bass: verdict – food 12/20, quality-price 13/20. In a much smaller, unrated piece he mentions a 1930’s-ish bistro, L'Aromatik 7, rue Jean-Baptiste-Pigalle in the 9th, 01.48.74.62.27; 01-48-74-62-27, home to the likes of Joséphine Baker and Sidney Bechet serving sugar/salted, spicy, grandmotherish food with clever wines for accessible (menus =14.90-30 €) prices.

Friday in Les Echos Jean Louis Galesne reviewed four new places in addition to Gordon’s Ramsey’s Trianon Palace’s classic cuisine: he suggests that rather than spend 130-150 unmerited €’s there, one go to L'Angélique, 42, avenue de Saint-Cloud in Versailles, (close by the chateau), 01.30.84.98.85, closed Sundays and Mondays with a menu carte at 36 euros, run by Régis Dhouysset, who made L'Escarbille in Meudon so successful and the sous-chef there, Alex Guiet, ex-Chibois, ex-Grande Cascade, who designs the menus containing items such as a croque-monsieur with foie gras, quail with pine nut gratinee, roast lotte and saddle of lamb in collaboration with his former chef. The next three places were in Paris: L'Agapé, 51, rue Jouffroy-d'Abbans in the 17th, 01.42.27.20.18, closed Sundays and Mondays, lunch menu at 39, dinner 77 euros and “carte blanche” menu = 110 euros (a la carte about 70) euros, run by Laurent Lapaire, ex director at L'Arpège with chef Bertrand Grebaut, also ex-Alain Passard where the produce comes from folks such as Passard’s veggie man, Annie Bertin and Hugo Desnoyer; the Café Central, ex Caffé Vergnano, 40, rue Cler in the 7th, 01.47.05.00.53 open everyday, running one about 20 € for a playful but affordable carte with salad nicoise, fish & chips, hamburger; and finally, the Bis-Tro Vinsobre, ex-Le Calmont, 35, avenue Duquesne, 7e. Tél. : 01.47.05.67.10, also open everyday and costing about 40 €, run by the folks who run the wine bar, Le Vinsobre, and consisting of the same menu, with meat by “one of the best butchers in Paris" –Jean-Marie Charcelay, 263, rue Saint-Jacques in the 5th, from which come the meats, including tartare and entrecote (served with frites).

In Saturday’s Figaro Francois Simon wrote an article about Anne-Sophie Pic and a Croque Notes about George Blanc. In addition, Alexandra Michot wrote about camembert, l’AOC and raw milk.

Saturday/Sunday, in Bonjour Paris, Margaret Kemp had an article on the Bistrot Poulbot and John Talbott had one on “The Corps of Discovery”.

Please post comments here and not in the Digest thread.

[John Talbott]

The Week of March 31st, 2008

March 22nd, Charles Bremmer and Marie Tourres wrote an article in the Times Online entitled “French reviewers give Gordon Ramsay a taste of his own medicine” quoting everyone from Simon to Pudlo and the press is rather bad.

Monday in Le Fooding, Trish Deseine, the Irish cookbook author, wrote about taking her kids to Gordon Ramsay’s second resto in Versailles – the Veranda, 1 bd de la Reine, 01 30 84 55 55, open 7/7. The kids (7-15) thought that the décor, chocolate fondant, sauces and warm bread were good but one fish was undercooked and had a bloody aftertaste, another was too skimpy, the caramel ice-cream was too salty and the basil sorbet had a strange taste. It was also very expensive, took too long and the too many waiters looked silly holding their silver trays.

Tuesday-Wednesday, in ANP, Jerome Berger had a full page piece on Hisayuki Takeuchi who has done an ephemeral resto at Bon Marche, an annex on the Champs Rendez-vous Toyota, a resto in the 15th Kaiseki.com and a book by Agnes Vienot.

Wednesday, in Figaroscope, Emmanuel Rubin’s “C’est nouveau” reviewed Gordon Ramsay’s Trianon Palace in Versailles, coordinates above and gave it a broken heart for its stiff, dismal and tasteless food that was also expensive (120 € per person); and awarded one heart each to: La Bocalee, 6, rue Ernest Renan in the 6th, 01.47.34.67.55, closed Saturday lunch, Sunday night and Mondays with lunch menus at 18 and 22.50 and about 50 € a la carte for shrimp with citrus, pea soup, lamb and profiteroles; Le Transversal a la Maison Rouge, 10, bvd de la Bastille in the 12th, 01.40.01.08.81, closed Monday and Tuesday and only open until 7 PM except Thursday til 9 PM, with menus at 20 and 25 € for mashed potatoes, stuffed pepper and egg cream; La Branche d’Olivier, 44-46 rue de Naples in the 8th, 01.42.63.48.18, closed Saturday lunch and Sundays, serving mackerel rillettes, beef filet and fromage blanc on 29.50 and 36 menus and 45 € a la carte; and the Spanish-sounding Basque-Bohemian La Bocata, 31 rue Milton in the 9th, open everyday but Sundays, serving coldcuts and simple fish for 15-30 €.

Wednesday as well, the Figaroscope “Dossier” dealt with the best neobistrots and rated them as follows:

18/20 Chez Ami Jean

17 Beurre Noisette

16.5 Repaire de Cartouche

16 l’Os a Moelle

15.5 Le Chateaubriand

15 Le Villaret

15 Le Baratin

14.5 Chez Michel

14 Le Troquet

14 l’Avant Gout

13.5 Le Comptoir du Relais

12 l’Epi Dupin.

And, Francois Simon’s “Hache Menu” featured Le Regalade which he didn’t rate but encouraged one to go to for their 32 € menu (although he chose a 72 € wine = 146 € total) with asparagus, veal and pink grapefruit with sorbet.

Wednesday-Thursday, Jean Claude Ribault in Le Monde chimed in about Gordon Ramsay as well, a bit more positively than the others.

Last Thursday, in l’Express, Francois Regis Gaudry reviewed Jean in the 9th, chef’d now by Bordier’s second Anthony Boucher who has maintained BB’s level and cooks snails with spinach and fennel, pork with cabbage and blood orange with mandarin jelly and white chocolate ice. Meanwhile Marie-Odile Briet reviewed the Italian La Briciola in the 3rd.

Thursday, in ParisObs, Philippe Couderc reviewed La Veranda, coordinates given above, where he had a tuna filet with fennel, lamb shoulder, red cabbage and crème caramel that he rated 15-16/20 for the Franco-Italian food and 15/20 for the price/quality ratio. He also reviewed Jean-Charles Ttoro, 6, rue Paul-Verlaine in Saint-Maurice (94 ; Ile de France), 01-48-83-27-27, formula at 19, a la carte 24-38 € which he rated 13-14/20 serving basque food such as baby eel, a bourrasque (bouillabaise like), calamari, charcuterie, etc.

Friday in Les Echos Jean Louis Galesne wrote an essay on food fashion since the turn of the last century, mentioning Escoffier’s peach Melba, the Ritz’s classic dishes, the Cafe de la Paix, Larue, Maxim’s, Flo, Bofinger, Pharamond + l'Escargot Montorgueil.

In Saturday’s Figaro Francois Simon wrote an article about Philippe Rochat, ex-Fredy Giradet in Crissier, Switzerland, saying nothing has changed. On the right, Alexandra Michot wrote about food blogs and other web productions by Pascale Weeks, Régis Marcon, Gilles Epié, Joël Robuchon, the Ducasse group, Stéphane Riss, Jamie Oliver, Yannick Alléno and Masami Akaogi.

Saturday/Sunday, in Bonjour Paris, Margaret Kemp had an article on the Dali at le Meurice and John Talbott had one on “Way out where redux”.

Sunday (March 16th) in the NYT, Elaine Sciolino wrote a “Bites” piece on 1728 open now for 5 years.

May’s Food & Wine had several items: four “fast” “comfort food” places: Floors, Les Cocottes, 142 Creperie Contemporaine, 59 rue St Charles in the 15th, 01.40.59.84.01 and the Café Charlot, 39 rue Charlot in the 13th, 01.44.54.03.30; two restos in Chateauneuf du Pape: Le Beaugraviere + La Mere Germaine; and 6 “Go” places: Baratin, Chiberta, Pre Catalan, Les Cocottes, Mon Vieil Ami, Racines + Spring and 3 places they “still love:” Da Rosa, Le Comptoir + Le Meurice.

May’s FRANCE magazine suggests one place in Aix Les Bains: La Terrasse; one in Pouilly sur Loire: Chez Memere; and a brief review of Sacre Cordon Bleu: what the French know about cooking by Michael Booth and Jonathan Cape, paper, 12.99₤.

May’s Bon Appetit had lots of things of interest: the recipe for steak frites from Le Bistrot Paul Bert; a “hot 10…euro bargain” Le Chateaubriand and two articles by “our own” Clotilde Dusoulier on the Right Bank places: Urbane, La Cantine de Quentin, Zoe Bouillion + Quedubon and “our own” Dorie Greenspan who mentioned among the “new Paris bistros:” Le Comptoir, Fables de la Fontaine, Ribouldingue, Chez Michel, Le Troquet, Les Papilles, l’Os a Moelle + Chez l’Ami Jean.

Edited April 16th to add more content to Wednesday’s Figaroscope threesome that are still unavailable on the web.

Please post comments here and not in the Digest thread.

Edited April 16, 2008 by John Talbott (log)

[John Talbott]

The Week of April 7th, 2008

Tuesday-Wednesday, in ANP, Jerome Berger reviewed and gave 3/5 blocks to Les Rustres, 9, rue Antoine Vollon in the 12th, 01.43.47.18.01, closed Sunday and Tuesday nights, with lunch formulas at 13 and 21, a la carte about 30 €, serving seasonal dishes, especially fish and classic bistro fare; meanwhile Philippe Toinard got stuck with the 1/5 block 23 Mazarine, 23, rue Mazarine in the 6th, 01.43.26.40.24, lunch formula at 26 €, closed Sundays and Mondays, where he describes his experience as a calvary and the food feeble.

Wednesday, in Figaroscope, Emmanuel Rubin awarded three places three hearts each [now, that’s a first]: Agape, in the 17th , coordinates above for asparagus with bacon, turbot, pigeon and banana; the Japanese Shu in the 6th; and the Korean Sobane, 5, rue de la Tour d’Auvergne in the 9th, 01.48.78.02.91, open 7/7, where for 25-35 € a la carte and lunch menus at 13 and 16.50 and dinner ones for 31.50 € one has such fare as bulot salad, tripes soup and fried chicken. Then getting one heart each are Fauchon le Café you know where for a terrine of cheese, fish and chic [sic], eclairs and baba for 40-50 € and Les Montagnards, rue Jean-Jacques Rousseau in the 1st, 01.40.26.68.75, closed Sundays, with menus at 9, 13 and 16, a la carte 30 € for raclette with charcuterie, cheese raclette and yogurt.

This week, in Figaroscope’s Dossier, the gang listed and described light dishes:

Small plates

Pikilia at Cristina’s

Eggs at Coco & Co

Bentos at Publicisdrugstore

Cocottes at where else Les Cocottes

Seafood

Clams at l’Atelier de JR

Oysters at l’Ecume St Honore

Fish

Vapored daurade at Au Petit Thious

Bio salmon at Au Salon Pour

Tuna tartare at 1728

Sushi at Korin

Daily special at the Hotel Pourquoi

Omega3’s at Little Georgette

Vegetables

House soup at Vingt 2

A plate of veggies at Racines

A Salad at Jour

Carrot juice at Fumoir Carotte

Spring veggies at Vapeur Gourmande

Zucchini soufflé at Colette Avant

Mesclun, parma ham, mozzarella, green beans and tender ble at Caffe Boboli

Dessert

Three pots without cream at the Dali.

Francois Simon in his Hache Menu went to Bizan, where he says to go for sushi on a menu of 22 €.

Wednesday-Thursday, Jean Claude Ribault in Le Monde wrote an article about Beaujolais, citing the sugaration scandal, acquisition by Louis Latous of Henry Fessy and declarations by two folk that it’s “masturbation carbonique” and “un vin de merde.”

Thursday, in l’Express, Francois Regis Gaudry reviewed Gordon Ramsay’s Trianon Palace in Versailles, not totally positively and the week before, Mathieu Caps had reviewed Melac, coordinates well known, apparently because it was celebrating its 70th birthday.

Thursday, in ParisObs, Philippe Couderc reviewed the Comptoir de Tunisie, coordinates in the guides to which he awards 10-11/20 for the food and 15/20 for the price/quality, and also La Potense, 78, rue de la Croix-Nivert in the 15th, 01.48.42.18.10, serving unpretentious food for 12,50 and 15,50 Euros at lunch and 26-36 Euros at dinner, and finally La Bocalée, 6, rue Ernest-Renan in the 15th, 01.47.34,67.55, which merits a detour and a 13/20, servings eggs cocotte, unilateral cod, duckling and rustic crepes for 18 & 22.50 Euros for lunch and 26 & 33 Euros for dinner.

In Saturday’s Figaro Francois Simon wrote an article about O Bontemps in Magalas.

Saturday/Sunday, in Bonjour Paris, Margaret Kemp had an article on the new Gault Millau and John Talbott had one on “Montmartre is where we want to eat.”

Please post comments here and not in the Digest thread.

[John Talbott]

The Week of April 14th, 2008

Tuesday-Wednesday, in ANP, Jerome Berger wrote a 3/5 review of l’Agapé , coordinates above, commenting on the parsley root soup, pigeon and banana dessert but regretting the prices; meanwhile, his colleague Philippe Toinard gave 4/5 to the Asian noodle place Les Pates Vivantes, in the 9th.

Wednesday, Richard Hesse in Paris Update reviewed Flora, coordinates well-known, where he found everything but the kid, plate-scraping and his table placement very good.

Wednesday as well, l’Express posted a review by Francois Regis Gaudry of Les Cotelettes, the offshoot of Ramulaud, coordinates given before, where he liked the andouillette and confit de canard and wine (carignan) {that ironically I had had earlier this week.} In addition, Yves Nespoulos reviewed the Asiatic noodle place, Les Pâtes vivantes.

Wednesday, in Figaroscope, Emmanuel Rubin awarded two hearts to the Bis-tro Vin Sobre, 35 Av Duquesne in the 7th, 01.47.05.67.10, open 7/7, formerly the Calmont reprised by the team from the Mother-ship Vin Sobre on the rue des Feuillantines, costing about 40 € asparagus with hollandaise, rabbit stew and an almond biscuit with raspberries; he gave one heart each to: the new and fourth Bar a Huitres in the P. Goldenberg space, 69, av des Ternes in the 17th, 01.43.80.63.54, also open 7/7, serving you know what for a la carte 30-60 (lunch menu= 23 €) and the Indian Bollywood Lounge. Busted hearts went to the Shanghai 1930 Le China in the 12th and Japanese Generation Sushi in the 6th.

This week, in Figaroscope’s Dossier, the team listed and described places under 30 €:

Right Bank

La Cotte Roti

Le Temps au Temps

M comme Martine

O.J.

Left Bank

l’Epigramme

L’Agassin

Au Bon Accueil

Near suburbs

Le Georgeon

Two others places received mention: Le Bistrot de Robert + Les Petites Sorcieres

Francois Simon in his Hache Menu went to Hide, where two ate well on leeks, cod and a strawberry tart for 90 Euros and he says to go for sure, it’s a “necessary address” {which I fully agree with.}

Wednesday-Thursday, Jean Claude Ribault in Le Monde wrote an article about sushi.

Thursday, in ParisObs, Philippe Couderc reviewed the Trianon Palace, coordinates above, bottom line – why go and pay all this money when he isn’t even there – he gave it 15-60/20 for the food and 12/20 for price-quality. Then he mentions two bistrots on the Rue Broca in the 13th, the well known Ourcine that has a nice menu-carte at dinner for 30 € and gets a rating of 13/20 from him and less well known wine bar-bistro L'Affaire de la rue Broca, 69, rue Broca, 01-43-31-28-28, with lunch formulas at 14 and 17 € for honest fare like a terrine de campagne, a tapenade de boudin noir and chocolate mousse.

Friday in Les Echos Jean Louis Galesne wrote a piece on restos in Honfleur mentioning: Sa.Qua.Na, Le Bréard, La Ferme Saint Siméon + L’Endroit. Jean Claude Hazera also has an article on Thierry Marx and his work on destructurization with a chemist named Jérôme Bibette, the results of which can be had at Le Laboratoire, 4, rue du Bouloi in the 1st, 01.78.09.49.50, open only Fridays to Mondays, where chocolate coffee is 6 and the complete menu with a glass of champagne = 27 €.

In Saturday’s Figaro Francois Simon, still outside the city, wrote his “Croque Notes” about l’Auberge des Vieux Puits in Corbieres.

Saturday/Sunday, in Bonjour Paris, John Talbott had an article on “Notre Dame is where we want to eat.”

Sunday, in JDD, Aurelie Chaigneau discovered Yan (Au Comte de Gascogne) Duranceau’s favorites under 35 € in Paris: Le Clos Bourgignon + l’Olivier and Astrid T’Serclaes visited L’Idee + l’Accolade.

Just a brief mention of Luc Dubanchet’s March oMni: Magazine Omnivore. It is impossible to “digest” since it covered chefs from all over, the Omnivore Food Festival and reviews of interesting books. But it’s a great read.

May’s Travel & Leisure has several mentions of places to eat: in the Stylish Traveler Le Chat Botté on the Ile de Re, Chez Theresa, Nissa Socca, Le Comptoir + La Table du Marche on the Cote d’Azur, and among “Hidden Neighborhoods” - Montmartre, where they recommend Le Café Burq + La Mascotte.

Please post comments here and not in the Digest thread.

[John Talbott]

The Week of April 21st, 2008

In Sunday’s NYT there was a piece about Reader’s Picks that named Le Comptoir, l’As du Fallafel, le Bistro de la Muette + Le Hide as restaurants in Paris to go to.

Monday in Le Fooding, Yves Nespoulous wrote about L’Endroit in Honfleur.

Tuesday-Wednesday, in ANP, Jerome Berger wrote {yet another} article about Gordon Ramsay with no ratings.

Wednesday, Richard Hesse in Paris Update reviewed the Thai Madame Shawn.

Wednesday, in Figaroscope, Emmanuel Rubin awarded three hearts to the Le Squer/Ledoyen-directed ETC., 2, rue La Perouse in the 16th, 01.49.52.10.10, closed Saturday lunch and Sundays, costing 68 at lunch (with wine) and a la carte 80-100 € for a surf and turf “fantasy,” pigs feet and veal liver, entrecote, and caramel ice. Two hearts went to the reprised Chez Julien, 1, rue du Pont Louis-Philippe in the 4th, 01.42.78.31.64, open 7/7, costing 35-50 € for a terrine maison, steak with shallots and a cod brandade. One heart was awarded to the Paris brasserie/Manhattan diner Café Central, coordinates given before serving fish and chips and hamburgers etc for 25-30 €. Finally busted hearts went to Passage Saint-Roch, 15, rue des Pyramides in the 1st, 01.44.50.77.07, open 7/7 but serving food as sad as military rations and the Indian Saveurs des Indes, coordinates given before.

This week, in Figaroscope’s Dossier, the team listed and described Tea Salons:

Russian

Kusmi tea

Shop Food

Bonpoint

Film lovers

Salon du Pantheon

Boudoir

The cool

Institution

Carette

Garden side

Café Medicis

Neo T

Charming tea time places

Musee de la Vie Romantique, La Cocotte, 1728 + Les Ombres.

Francois Simon in his Hache Menu went to the 1T Scribe, 1, rue Scribe in the 9th, 01.44.71.24.24, open 7/7 where he spent 54 € on tea plus a Caesar salad, éclair and “fingerfood.” He said go if you’re nearby but don’t go far.

Wednesday-Thursday in Le Monde, Jean Claude Ribault reviewed places in the north, specifically: La Flamiche in Roye, A L'Huîtrière + Le Sébastopol in Lille and the Château de Montreuil in the town of that name.

Thursday, in l’Express, François-Régis Gaudry reviewed l’Agape, coordinates given before, carefully detailing where the veal, lotte and pigeon come from and how (complicatedly and carefully) they are prepared. In addition, his colleague Pierrick Jégu, reviewed Le Quai in Tain l’Hermitage.

Friday in Les Echos Jean Louis Galesne wrote a piece on restos that use seasonal products that one can now see in transition: Maxan, Au Vieux Comptoir, La Cagouille, Ze Kitchen Galerie + Mori Venice Bar .

In Saturday’s Figaro Francois Simon and Alexandra Michot, in “Croque Notes” and two other articles wrote about the 50 Top Restaurant survey done in the UK magazine Restaurant. The header on Page One of the Section is entitled “Le Flop du Top 50.”

Saturday/Sunday, in Bonjour Paris, Margaret Kemp had an article on l’Hostellerie Berard 45 minutes from Marseille and John Talbott had an article on “The Louvre is where we want to eat.”

April’s WHERE had three restos reviewed by Alexander Lobrano – La Truffiere, La Bigarrade + l’Arome.

Please post comments here and not in the Digest thread.

[John Talbott]

The Week of April 28th, 2008

Tuesday, in l’Express, François-Régis Gaudry reviewed Shu, coordinates given before, and his colleague Pierrick Jégu, reviewed Juantorena in Saint-Etienne-de-Baïgorry.

Wednesday, Richard Hesse in Paris Update enthusiastically reviewed Les Cocottes.

Wednesday, in Figaroscope, Emmanuel Rubin awarded three hearts to famed Japanese chef Eiichi Edakuni’s Guilo-Guilo, 8, rue Garreau in the 18th, 01.42.54.23.92 and two hearts to the Italian Michelangelo, 3, rue Andre Barsacq in the 18th, 01.42.23.01.88 as well as one heart to three French places: the 1940’s theme room Le Nabuliones, 40 ave Duquene in the 7th, 01.53.86.09.09, open 7/7, serving items such as King crab with celery remoulade, grilled sole and rice pudding for about 60 €, the revived (by the Costes empire) Square Trousseau, coordinates well known and also open 7/7, serving rillons salad, beef taratre and a pot of chocolate for about 30 €, and l’Apotheme, 70, rue Vouille in the 15th, 01.48.28.81.61, closed Sundays and Mondays, serving marinated scallops, braised monkfish and a chocolate dessert for about 35-60 with menus at 35 and 50 and a lunch formula for 19 €.

This week, in Figaroscope’s "Dossier," the team listed and rated Spring Newcomers:

Gastronomic

8.5 Etc….

8 Jules Verne

7.5 l’Agapé

7 Le Dali

6.5 Bigarade

6.5 Jean

La Maison de la Truffe

4 Gordon Ramsay au Trianon

And also in Versailles l’Angelique

Bistrots

7 Les Petite Sorcieres Ghislane Arabian

6.5 Bistrot Robert

Les Cotelettes

Bis-Tro Vin Sobre

Hide

6 Le Messager

Mets & Vins

5.5 Bistrot Poulbot

Le Temps Au Temps

4 Chez Patrick

And also Gustave & Jules, l’Entetee, Montagnards, Les Rustres + la Veraison

Cosmopolitan

8 Shu

7.5 Sobane

7 Lao Lane Xang 2

6.5 Les Pates Vivantes

6 Youlin

5 Kaiseki Bento au Rendez-v

And also La Briciola, Nagoya II, Procopio Angelo, La Cantinella + Bollywood Lounge

Exotic

6 Le Petit Bordelais

O.J.

Misia

5.5 Bernard du 15

Le Petit Nicoise

4 Food and Beverage

3 Caffe Minotte

? 23 Mazarine

And also M comme Martine

Wired

6.5 Quai-quai

5.5 BAM

Cafe Central

Les Parisiennes

Au Duc des Lombards

Le China

3 Passage St-Roch

And also Transversal/Maison Rouge, Café Fauchon, l’Idee, Bar Le Living Room, Soya, The Cool, Mems, La Cantine du 10 + Little Georgette.

Francois Simon in his Hache Menu went to the l’Agape where he had the asparagus, pigeon and ice cream and while he thinks it’s one-star food he says the place lacks life and only the curious should go.

Wednesday-Thursday in Le Monde, Jean Claude Ribault discussed places where one can get a good steak tartare, specifically: La Rotonde, Le Severo, Alcazar, Warwick, Bistrot de la Muette + Tiara in Paris and l’Academie du tartare in Ramatuelle.

In Saturday’s Figaro Francois Simon in “Croque Notes” wrote up Les Coteaux, 8, rue Jeanne- d’Arc, Saint- Mandé, 01 48 08 74 81, count on 20 € a la carte. Even though it’s tough to get to {I found it more easily than he apparently} and the menu (tripes, organ meats, porkie things and sausages) was not to his liking he found himself with “his master” - Christian Millau, who really likes this place and he did as well: pork ears, stuffed cabbage and crème caramel. Indeed he liked it so much he made a reservation for 6 for next week. In addition, Lucille Escourrou has an article on William Ledeuil getting his Michelin star 7 years after opening Ze Kitchen Galerie.

Saturday/Sunday, in Bonjour Paris, Margaret Kemp had an article on La Luna and John Talbott one on “The Orsay is where we want to eat.”

Please post comments here and not in the Digest thread.

[John Talbott]

The Week of May 5th, 2008

Monday, in Le Fooding Chloé Aeberhardt wrote about the Japanese Guilo Guilo and Itineraires, 5, rue de Pontoise in the 5th, 01 46 33 60 11, closed Sundays and Mondays, menu 34, main 22, 2 dishes 29 at night and 22 € at lunch, where Sylvain and Sarah Sendra have moved from Le Temps Au Temps, serving rougets with vinegar, coulis of passion fruit, risotto with squid ink, etc.

Tuesday, Jerome Berger in A Nous Paris reviewed Les Cotelettes, 3/5, coordinates already given, where he liked the prices for the herring with potatoes and the fricassee of little snails. Meanwhile Philippe Toinard reviewed the risotto place in the 17th – Orisotto.

Wednesday, in Figaroscope, Emmanuel Rubin awarded two hearts to two places: Ducoté Cuisine, 112, ave Victor Hugo in Boulogne-Billancourt, 01.48.25.49.20, closed Sundays and Mondays, serving a lunch formula (35) and menu (45), dinner menu (70) and a la carte 80 € with items such as stuffed squid, Bresse chicken with morels and baked apples and the Italian Di Vino in the 16th. Then he gave one heart each to: Carpediem, coordinates in the guides, recently taken over by a young chef serving lamb and moelleux with too much fuchia for 30-40 a la carte (lunch menus at 16 and 21 €) and the Buisson Ardent-offshoot, La Cuisine du Buisson Ardent, 44, Rue St Honore in the 1st, 01.42.36.42.60, closed Sundays with formulas running from 10.90-29.90 € for eggplant ricotta, tagine-style lamb and almond tart. Finally, he gives a busted heart to Rafael, 105 rue de Prony in the 17th, 01.44.40.05.88,open 7/7 serving asparagus and pigeon for 50-60 €.

This week, in Figaroscope’s Dossier, the team listed restaurants connected with the riots of May 1968:

Odeon

Au Petit Suisse

La Patisserie Viennoise

La Mediteranee

Polidor

Mabillon

l’Assignat

Orestias

Le Petit Vatel

Aux Charpentiers

Jussieu

Moissonnier

Chez Rene

Saint Germain

Lipp

La Charrette

Le Petit St-Benoit

Luxembourg

Le Perraudin

Francois Simon in his Hache Menu went to Balzar where he advises readers not to go.

Wednesday-Thursday in Le Monde, Jean Claude Ribault discussed two “historical” (1686 + 1874) restaurants: Le Procope + L'Escargot Montorgueil, neither of which (strangely) is in the Michelin today.

Friday, in l’Express, François-Régis Gaudry reviewed and quite liked Christien Le Squer’s Etc., coordinates given before, while Pierrick Jégu reviewed the lounge-wine bar Le Living Room 5, rue Crillon in the 4th, 01.42.78.12.69.

In Saturday’s Figaro Francois Simon wrote about 7 places he particularly likes: the Bistrot Paul Bert + l’Astrance in Paris and Obontemps, Mirazur, Saquana, le Bistro des Saveurs + Le Coquillage outside. He also wrote about his 7 pet peeves: foam, severity, gogos, extras, absent chefs, arrogance and grotesque checks.

Saturday/Sunday, in Bonjour Paris, John Talbott wrote a piece entitled “Great Expectations or the Tale of Two Cities.”

Rosa Jackson in her “Paris Bites” in Paris Notes very enthusiastically reviewed the Jules Verne.

The May Conde Nast Traveler suggests the following “hot tables” in Paris: Afaria, Le Bistro de la Muette, Grand Pan + Le Jules Verne.

Gilles Pudlowski, in May’s France Magazine gives 23 restaurants he thinks you’ll leave feeling your money is well-spent: l’Absinthe, A Casa Luna, Dalva, Aux Lyonnais, Gallopin, Au Bascou, Le Grand Colbert, l’Ambassade de l’Auvergne, Chez Nenesse, Brasserie de l’Ile St Louis, Isami, Mon Viel Ami, Ribouldingue, l’AOC, Cameleon, l’Epigramme, Les Cocottes de Christian Constant, Spring, La Pizzetta, Le Bistrot Paul Bert, Bigarrade, l’Entredgeu, Le Café qui Parle.

Please post comments here and not in the Digest thread.

Edited June 12, 2008 by John Talbott (log)

[John Talbott]

The Week of May 12th, 2008

Tuesday, Jerome Berger and Philippe Toinard in A Nous Paris listed six good (4/5 blocks) restaurants with good prices (in addition to the old reliables – Regalade, l’Ami Jean + Chez Michel). All except the last’s coordinates have been listed before. They are Coco et Co, La Briciola, l’Angelique, Corneil, La Cave a l’Os a moelle + Les Comperes, 32 rue Dantzig in the 15th, 01.45.33.72.71, closed Sundays and Monday nights, serving charcuterie, spinach with chicken livers, pork ribs and tiramisu on a 14 € lunch formula.

Tuesday, in l’Express, Yves Nespoulous reviewed Autour d’un verre, coordinates given before, a wine bar in the 9th. And Friday, François-Régis Gaudry did a special edition on Monte Carlo (it’s Cannes time) including Louis XV, Le Sporting Monte-Carlo, l’Aromate, Cave Croisette, Cave de l’Origine, La Mer Germaine + Le Rendez-vous.

Wednesday, in Figaroscope, Emmanuel Rubin awarded two hearts to three places: Itineraires, coordinates given last week, 153 Grenelle, address idem in the old Soleil space, in the 7th, 01.45.51.54.12, closed Sundays, lunch menu = 35, dinner 59 € for blue lobster, langoustines and four tiny desserts and La Folle Avoine, 91, rue de Grenelle in the 7th, 01.45.51.02.59, closed Sundays, running one 30-35, formulas at 20 and 25 € for shrimp tempura, entrecote and bar. Two one heart ratings went to: l’Oga, 82, rue Jean Pierre Timbaud in the 11th, 01.43.57.60.15, closed Saturday lunch and Mondays (brunch on Sundays) with lunch menus at 10.50 and 12.50, a la carte 35-40 € for soup, minced ostrich and pannacotta and Les Fromages de Pierre, 148, ave Felix Faure in the 15th, 01.45.54.12.26, closed Saturday and Sundays, serving cheese from Androuet in fare such as a tartine, aligot with charcuterie and fondues for 25-40 €

This week, in Figaroscope’s Dossier, Colette Monsat et al described Museum Restaurants:

Grand Palais

Mini Palais

Quai Branly

Les Ombres

Tokyo

Tokyo Eat

Baccarat

Cristal Room Baccarat

MAC VAL

Le Transversal

Centre Pompidou

Georges

Musee de l’Homme et de la Marine

Café de l’Homme

Musee des Arts et Metiers

Le Café des Techniques

And of course, Francois Simon gets to p;ick his choice: in his Hache Menu he went to Le Saut du Loup where he advises readers to go for pleasantness of the terrace but not the price – 143 € for two to pick at the food.

Wednesday-Thursday in Le Monde, Jean Claude Ribault discussed Le Clos de Sens in Annecy. The day before he had written a tribute to Paul Haeberlin.

Thursday, Richard Hesse in Paris Update reviewed Les Petite Sorcieres, coordinates given before where the dishes were not as exciting for him and his dining partner as expected but which he still deemed “magical.”

Friday, in Les Echos, Jean Louis Galesne sings about the pretty restos of May: Guilo Guilo, ETC + Itinéraires. He also announced that Alice Bardet was “directing” another restaurant in addition to the Point Bar – Le Boudoir, 28, rue du Colisée in the 8th and that Christian Etchebest, chef of Le Troquet in the 15th would open La Cantine at 103, rue de l'Ouest in the 14th ; both at the end of May.

In Saturday’s Figaro Francois Simon wrote about La Cigale Egarée in Quimperlé where he ate well.

Saturday/Sunday, in Bonjour Paris, Margaret Kemp wrote “Spring at the Pre Catalan” and John Talbott wrote a piece entitled “Trapped by the Chef.”

Please post comments here and not in the Digest thread.

[John Talbott]

The Week of May 19th, 2008

Tuesday, Philippe Toinard in A Nous Paris reviewed and gave 4/5 blocks to ETC…, coordinates given before, commenting on the liquid persillade, entrecote and strawberries and Jerome Berger reviewed and awarded 3/5 blocks to Itineraires, coordinates also given before, commenting on the potato and strawberries and rhubarb.

Wednesday, in Figaroscope, Emmanuel Rubin awarded two hearts to two places: Le Gaigne, 12, rue Pecquay in the 4th, 0144.59.86.72, closed Tuesday with lunch menus at 16 and 22, a la carte 40-50 € for a bio egg, farm-raised chicken and strawberries and Le Telegraphe, 41, rue de Lille in the 7th, 01.58.62.10.08, open everyday for lunch only, with menus at 24.5 and 29.5, a la carte about 50-60 € for green bean salad, duck filet and homemade sorbet. He gave three other restaurants one heart: the nouvelle Thai place Lo’riginal in the 5th, the neo-brasserie Le Bis Repetita, 167, rue St-Honore in the 1st, 01.42.60.40.11, open 7/7 and running one 30-40 € for oeufs mayo, herring, pigs’ feet and crème brulee and the Italian Orisotto in the 17th.

This week, in Figaroscope’s Dossier, Colette Monsat et al described places to get Caesar salads:

8.5 Les Cocottes

7.5 Sens

7 Hotel Amour

Saint-M

6.5 Colette

6 Quai-quai

5.5 Bound

4 Coffee Parisien

And going along with the theme, Francois Simon went to the Ritz, where for 105 € he and a companion had a “Salad Ritzy and Cesar” chicken, water and two coffees. His verdict - go because it’s a living Titanic.

Wednesday, Richard Hesse in Paris Update reviewed ETC…, coordinates given before, where the dishes were good but the waiting and rushing not so.

Wednesday-Thursday, Jean Claude Ribaut was the latest to remember the riots of ’68 and their relationship with cooking, in particular, nouvelle cuisine. He recalls {as do I} the restaurants and innovators of that era: Le Pactole, Le Pot-au-Feu (Michel Guérard), L'Archestrate (Alain Senderens), Jean Troisgros, Alain Chapel, Paul Haeberlin, Jean Bardet, Roger Vergé, Gérard Cagna (then at Lucas Carton), André Guillot (Le Vieux Marly), Le Camélia (Jean Delaveyne), Jean Trémolières, Gérard Allemandou (La Cagouille), Marc Veyrat, Michel Trama, Jacques Megean, Jean-Jacques Jouteux, Olympe (Paul Minchelli) and of course their promoters and chroniclers , Henri Gault et Christian Millau, then journalists at Paris-Presse L'Intransigeant.

In Saturday’s Figaro Francois Simon wrote about Itineraires in article entitled “The Tyranny of the Exquisite” after a meal he termed his coup de coeur of this week.

Saturday/Sunday, in Bonjour Paris, Margaret Kemp wrote up the “Grand Hotel Loreamar Basque” and John Talbott wrote a piece entitled “Food Great Service Sucked.”

Sunday in JDD, Alain Soliveres of Taillevent identified his two favorite places where one can eat for less than 35 €: Alain Ducasse’s boulangerie Be Boulangepicier, 73, bvd de Courcelles in the 8th and the Japanese place Benkay.

This month’s Where had Alexander Lobrano‘s traditional monthly picks: Le Ciel de Paris, Le Villaret + le Bistro Poulbot.

Please post comments here and not in the Digest thread.

[John Talbott]

The Week of May 26th, 2008

Tuesday, Philippe Toinard in A Nous Paris reviewed and gave 4/5 blocks to La Gaigne, coordinates given before, commending the morue, lieu and exotic fruits.

Wednesday, in Figaroscope, Emmanuel Rubin awarded two hearts to Le Veranda, coordinates given before in Versailles (Gordon Ramsay’s #2), mentioning the stuffed calamari, pea soup, cocotte of lamb and chocolate dessert. Then he rated four places with one heart: La Cuizine (sic), 73, rue Amelot in the 11th, 01.43.14.27.00, closed Sundays and Mondays, costing 35-40 € for asparagus, fresh goat cheese and saddle of lamb, Oscar, 11-13, bvd Beaumarchais in the 4th, 01.42.78.42.55, with 13.9 and 17.9 formulas at lunch and 35 € for a la carte for anchovy salad, blanquette of veal and a half-chicken, the B A Bar, in the Hotel Bel Ami, 7-11, rue St Benoit in the 6th, 01.42.61.53.53, open 7/7, costing one about 30 € for a dish and cocktail and La Montagne sans Genevieve, 13, rue du Pot au Feu in the 5th, 01.43.36.61.52, open 7/7, costing one 20-35 € according to your thirst and appetite for charcuterie, nutella cream and small wines.

In this week Figaroscope’s Dossier, Colette Monsat et al described places with terraces:

For breakfast

Cafe Fauchon

Le Square Trousseau

Cafe Central

Lunch

Les Princes

Ante Prima

L’Eclaireur

Bagatelle

Tea

Le Salon

Café des Lettres

Apero

Au 25º Est

Mini-Palais

For dinner

Nabulione

Chez Julien

And as always, Francois Simon goes to a biggie – the Deux Magots, for a cappucino (6 €) and salad (13 €). Go? Go!

Wednesday, Richard Hesse in Paris Update reviewed l’Ourcine, calling it “a near-perfect little Paris bistro.”

Wednesday’s New York Times had an article by Matt Gross mentioning; le Point Éphémère, Chez Prune + Au Pied de Fouet.

Thursday in l’Express, Jégu Pierrick wrote about L'Arôme while François-Régis Gaudry, wrote about the best bio bakeries that included: in Paris Moisan,Eric Kayser, Olivier Gestin, François Pozzoli in Lyon,Pain Maître in Bordeaux,Jacques Mahou in Tours,L'Artisan du bio in Chabeuil and la Palin in Sisteron.

In Saturday’s Figaro, in three articles, Francois Simon and Alexandra Michot discussed the current dustup among Spanish chefs already mentioned as well as Thierry Marx’s “laboratory” in Paris.

Saturday/Sunday, in Bonjour Paris, Margaret Kemp discussed Citrus Etoile + Pur Grille and John Talbott wrote a piece entitled “Memorable and Unmemorable Meals.”

In the weekend FT, Rebecca Rose wrote up Le Duc in the 14th.

Please post comments here and not in the Digest thread.

[John Talbott]

The Week of June 2nd, 2008

Monday, Chloé Aeberhardt of Le Fooding revisited Bigarrade and found the food brilliant (she had been disappointed in January).

Monday-Tuesday, Jerome Berger in A Nous Paris reviewed and gave 4/5 blocks to the Japanese Guilo Guilo, coordinates given before but Philippe Toinard only gave 2/5 to Le Square de Marcadet, ex-Le Square, coordinates in the 18th well-known, where his “regret” was everything from start to finish.

Wednesday, in Figaroscope, Emmanuel Rubin awarded two hearts to 5 places: the photo and blurb and #1 slot went to the Corsican A La Chataigne, 22, rue de Miromesnil in the 8th, 01.40.07.90.86, closed Saturday lunch and Sundays, where for 35-45 €, one dines on terrines, charcuteries, tripes and chestnut tart; the Tunisian Le Comptoir de Tunisie in the 1st; the Brasserie du Louvre in the Hotel du Louvre, place Andre Malraux in the 1st, 01.44.58.38.38, open 7/7, costing 50-60 € for tomato soup, ray and chocolate biscuit; the Chalet de l’Oasis in the St Cloud park, 01.49.66.12.83, running you about 30 € for an oeuf mayo, onglet/frites and dessert; and finally, Chez Fred, 190 bis, blvd Periere in the 17th, 01.45.74.20.48, closed Sundays, costing 35-50 € for herrings and potatoes, shrimp and avocado, warm lyonnais sausage and a baba.

In this week Figaroscope’s Dossier, Colette Monsat et al described hotels in which to have breakfast:

Chic

Empire Cafe

Japanese

Tour Seasons George V

Generous buffet

Milton Arc de Triomphe

Light

Bar du Murano

Discreet charm

Hotel de Sers

Healthy

Park Hyatt Vendome

Price-quality

l’Hotel

Left bank tone

La Brasserie du Lutetia

To see and be seen

Hotel Costes

And also

Hyatt Regency.

In his Hache Menu, Francois Simon went to the bar at the Bel Ami Hotel where he had a mediocre breakfast for a banal 25 €.

Wednesday, as well, Richard Hesse in Paris Update reviewed Afaria, calling it “a supremely satisfying tucker.”

In Saturday’s Figaro Francois Simon wrote about the return of chef Jean Jacques Jouteux to 153 Grenelle the the 7th, coordinates given before. In another large article, Alexandra Michot discusses chefs doing other things with their places such as selling wine, books, or providing cooking lessons, etc.

Saturday/Sunday, in Bonjour Paris, Margaret Kemp wrote about restaurants that have nice terraces.

Sunday in JDD, Inaki Aizpitarte of Chateaubrian identified his two favorite places where one can eat for less than 35 €: Bigarrade, coordinates given before and the Viet Namese Minh Chau. In addition, Astrid de T’Serclaes reviewed the Café Tournon + Le Temps au Temps in JDD's magazine version femina.

Please post comments here and not in the Digest thread.

[John Talbott]

The Week of June 9th, 2008

Monday, Assia Rabinowitz in Le Fooding wrote about the Restaurant De Lauzun in Gignac.

Monday-Tuesday, Jerome Berger in A Nous Paris reviewed and gave 3/5 blocks to the Japanese-sounding but French-cooking Hide, coordinates given before and Philippe Toinard gave a similar rating to Monjul, coordinates also given before but written up to date only by Richard Hesse to my knowledge.

Wednesday, in Figaroscope, Emmanuel Rubin awarded two hearts to and the photo to the new Lebanese restaurant in the Monde Arabe: Le Zyriab by Noura, 1, rue des Fosses St-Bernard, 01.55.42.55.42, no closing days given and one-heart to 3 places, the Thai Le Livingstone Rive Gauche in the 1st, l’Institut, 1, bd St Germain, 01.53.10.85.95, open everyday, serving veal chop and confit de canard for 25-35 €, replacing the Buffalo Grill and Alliance Gourmande, 25 rue Jean Jaures in Levallois-Perret, 01.47.31.64.50, closed Saturday and Sundays all day and lunch Monday through Wednesday, serving anchovies, a bavette and floating island for 30-35 €. Finally a busted heart went to the “snacking” Baboto, in the 1st.

In this week Figaroscope’s Dossier, Colette Monsat et al gave details on where to go slightly outside the city:

B-B

Ducote Cuisine

Ville d’Avray

Le Café des Artistes et des Pe

Versailles

La Veranda au Trianon Palace

Issy

l’Ile

Issy Guignette

St Cloud

Le Chalet de l’Oasis

Neuilly

Durand Dupont

Meudon

l’Escarbille

Champigny

La Guiginette du Martin-pecheu

And in his Hache Menu, Francois Simon went to Au Pere Lapin in Sursesnes which he calls a veritable good address.

Wednesday, as well, Richard Hesse in Paris Update reviewed Les Papilles, calling it a “winning formula” serving “good food.”

Friday in Les Echos, Jean Louis Galesne wrote about places in Chablis, specifically: the Hostellerie des Clos, Laroche Wine Bar, Le Petit Millésime + La Griotte.

In Saturday’s Figaro Francois Simon wrote about Le Galopin in Rennes.

Saturday/Sunday, in Bonjour Paris, Margaret Kemp wrote an article on “Crillon Picnic, Gantie 2008 & Oyster Bar” and John Talbott one on “Wine, Whining and Me.”

Rosa Jackson in "Paris Bites" in Paris Notes enthusiastically reviewed l’Epigramme + Au Bon Acceuil.

The weekend of May 24-25th, Christina Passariello wrote about places featuring wine in Paris in the WSJ that mentioned: Il Vino, l’Astrance, Senderens and Lavinia.

Please post comments here and not in the Digest thread.

[John Talbott]

The Week of June 16th, 2008

Monday, François Lemarié in Le Fooding wrote about the Chez Tonyon in Plouezec.

Monday-Tuesday, in A Nous Paris, Philippe Toinard reviewed and gave 3/5 blocks to Nuxis, 129, rue du Chateau in the 14th {Michel Craca of Guifeli, which I thought was a terrific place, will open in a new Right Bank location under the same name}, 01.43.27.32.56, open dinner only except Sundays, with a menu at 28 € for avocado, vegetables, lamb with feta and a chocolate tart; and Jerome Berger reviewed and gave 3/5 blocks to 153 Grenelle, coordinates given before, where he liked the asparagus, langoustines, impeccable St-Pierre and voluptuous vanilla cream. In addition, in the sidebar, they announced that the Bar a Huitres Ternes, the third such, had opened in the old Goldenberg space.

Wednesday, in Figaroscope, Emmanuel Rubin reviewed his usual five places but didn’t list them by number of hearts which I will do: two hearts went to the Japanese Hotaru in the 9th, the Brazilian Gabriela also in the 9th and the Lebanese Helem in the 2nd. One heart each was awarded the fusiony Le Perroquet in the Casino de Paris, 16, rue de Clichy in the 9th, 01.53.42.16.05, open everyday, which for 40-60 € given on crab Thai-style, risotto and chocolate nems and Au Pied de Fouet, 96, rue Oberkampf in the 11th, 01.48.06.46.98 open everyday, which for 20 € gives you cream of mushrooms, oeuf mayo, entrecote and a crème renversée.

In this week Figaroscope’s Dossier, Colette Monsat et al gave where to go for sorbets:

Apricot-Rosemary

La Maison du Chocolat

Kiwi

Gelati d’Alberto

Green apple

Ice to Ice

Yellow peach

Pozzetto

Wild blackberry

Martine Lambert

Cocoa

Jean-Paul Hevin

Litchi-Rose petal

A la Mere de Famille

Raspberry

Berthillon

Cassis

Laduree

Mango

Macaroon

And also

La Tropicale + Le Bac a glaces.

And in his Hache Menu, Francois Simon went to Toraya in the 1st for their menu of ices.

Wednesday, as well, Richard Hesse in Paris Update reviewed Zum Strissel, in Strasbourg, where he had a “self-indulgent, but oh, so satisfying” meal.

Thursday, Le Point, had a special section devoted to food including suggestions for restaurants and other food-related places in the 1-10th Arrondissements and 11-20th see below, and Pudlo’s views on the great places. They also list the best of: best quenelles @ Aux Lyonnais, best entrecôte Le Relais Beaujolais, best veal liver Le Caméléon, best boudin La Fontaine de Mars, best canned tuna Le Dauphin, best fries Le Severo + le Bistrot Paul Bert, and best shrimp croquettes Les Petites Sorcières/Ghislaine Arabian.

1er ARRONDISSEMENT - Cibus, BAM, Joe Allen, Nodaiwa, Kinugawa

2e ARRONDISSEMENT - Liza

3e ARRONDISSEMENT - Le Café des Musées, Breizh Café, Mai Thai, Taeko

4e ARRONDISSEMENT - Ma Bourgogne, Chez Marianne

5e ARRONDISSEMENT - Itinéraires, L'AOC, Au Coin des gourmets, La Baleine

6e ARRONDISSEMENT - Fogon, Le Petit Verdot, PDG, Tsukizi, L'Epi Dupin, La Mercerie Mullot

7e ARRONDISSEMENT - Chez l'ami Jean, Petrossian, Le Café Constant, Les Cocottes, Le Violin d'Ingres, Café de l'Esplanade

8e ARRONDISSEMENT - L'Evasion, Le Griffonnier, L'Angle du Faubourg, Dominique Bouchet, Mini-Palais

9e ARRONDISSEMENT - Les Pâtes vivantes, Hôtel Amour

10e ARRONDISSEMENT - La Paella, Le Martel

11e ARRONDISSEMENT - Le Repaire de Cartouche, Da Lat, Bistrot Paul Bert, L'Homme bleu.

12e ARRONDISSEMENT - Le Cotte rôti, Les Crocs, Baron rouge, La Gazzetta

13e ARRONDISSEMENT - Chez Nathalie, Les Cailloux, Le Lao Thaï, L'Ourcine, Lao Lane Xang - To avoid - Bioart

14e ARRONDISSEMENT - Severo, Les Petites Sorcières, L'Ordonnance, La Marée Denfert, La Régalade

15e ARRONDISSEMENT - Afaria, Le Café des ombres

16e ARRONDISSEMENT - La Table Lauriston, Le Murat, La Pizzeria d'Auteuil, Chez Géraud, Carette, La Gare, Les Jardins Plein Ciel

17e ARRONDISSEMENT - L'Agapé, Sormani, La Maison de Charly

18e ARRONDISSEMENT - Le Moulin de la galette, Terrass Hôtel/Le Diapason

19e ARRONDISSEMENT - La Cave gourmande, Quedubon, Nakagawa, 25° Est

20e ARRONDISSEMENT - Les Allobroges, Le Baratin, Café noir, Vin Chai Moi.

Friday, Jean Louis Galesne in this week's Les Echos wrote about several places in Boulogne-Billincourt: Le Gorgeon, coordinates given before; the new, adorable Violette et François, 38, rue d'Aguesseau, 01.46.05.01.93, closed weekends, lunch menu at 21, a la 35 euros, serving both traditional and non- food such as a radiant mache salad, peeled ecrevisses and cod with chips; the Japanese Sanki + La Trattoria, a true trattoria and a Spanish place Byzance; and a light snack lunch or Saturday brunch (14 E for either, 35 E a la carte) place Le Molière, 5, rue Molière, 01.46.21.91.86, closed Sundays and Mondays.

Saturday-Sunday, in Le Figaro, Francois Simon wrote about Michel Troisgros’s new hotel-restaurant venture 20 minutes north of Roanne called La Colline du Colombier.

Sunday, in JDD, Astrid T’Serclaes reviewed Ducoté Cuisine + Bis-tro Vin Sobre and Jean-Michel Lorain (Joigny) gave his two favorite places in Paris under 35 euros as Chez Michel + Le Restaurant du marché.

And ironically, Sundays, Margaret Kemp in Bonjour Paris visited Lorain’s place La Cote Saint-Jacques in Joigny and John Talbott wrote about “Chefs on the Run: Up, Down and Sideways.”

Please post comments here and not in the Digest thread.

Edited July 7, 2008 by John Talbott (log)