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Eigensinn Farm


Wilfrid

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Steve Klc mentioned the above about a year ago as possibly the best dining experience to be had in the Toronto area. I wonder if anyone has heard about it recently or has any recent experiences?

Otherwise, my understanding from reading this board and looking elsewhere is that Susur is the top pick for dinner in Toronto.

Thanks as always for any help.

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  • 11 months later...

Yes, he's taking a break (rumoured to be shooting a film series on cooking across Canada). I'm not sure what the return date is, but know that Nobuyo (in particular) was upset about abusive phone calls from erstwhile visitors who couldn't get reservations (or even anyone on the phone). My guess is that they will go to a 'French Laundry' type reservation system, with booking a set number of days in advance. Michael missed Toronto Taste this year so I couldn't catch up (or get a reservation this year).

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We were there 6 months ago aprox., and they said they would be closed for a couple of months at least to shoot that special film which he has accepting investors for.

There's a special event in Sept. at the farm for $200 something pp. Sorry, can't remember the specific, but it is advertised in the current issue of Toronto Life, in the section where they review restaurants.

"I hate people who are not serious about their meals." Oscar Wilde

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Some say it's the best in Canada. I think Conde Nast Traveller ranked it in their top 10 of the world.

I haven't been (yet), but a gourmand who's opinion I respect told me he thought it was better than the French Laundry.

Let's call out for posts from those who've been. Is it as good as they say?

Malcolm Jolley

Gremolata.com

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I have a friend (an extremely well-travelled gourmand) that ranks his experience at Eigensinn above Taillevant, L'Arpege, French Laundry, et al. Think Alice Waters in style, but with more of an edge.

I've tasted his food at Toronto Taste as well as other events, but haven't eaten at Eigensinn myself (yet). I've never heard anyone disappointed.

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I wasn't really going to respond to this thread, but I just can't go on listening to people say this is a better experience than French Laundry or Taillevant!!

Here's the thing. He's a brilliant chef. He knows how to execute flavours, textures, mesh cuisines into something special. Even exquisite.

Let me preface the followng comments with the fact that I am neither a food snob, nor do I need 5 star ambiance to dine out....I've done it down and dirty and loved it.

But, we really have to figure out what we're basing all this praise on. Is it the food alone? The setting and the food?

I have to say that last time I went, I was disillusioned with it all.

You know the "restaurant" is on his farm - so you kinda expect certain things when going to a farm. But, you don't really expect to be walking through chicken and duck droppings to get to the front door.

When I went there with a party of 5 a few years ago, there was NO air-conditioning. Take the smell of a lovely farm, no air-conditioning, and a hot summer day.....mmmmm.

His dog walked throughout the dining area for the entire meal. That's just wrong in my book. But nobody seemed to really care. There were various flying things throughout our meal, flies, mosquitos etc. Truly disgusting.

Anyway, the food was great. It even edged to earth-shattering. He used his fresh vegetables, foie gras, and did some great things with his venison and roasted rabbit. Maybe it's because I've eaten all over the world and have some really mind-blowing examples to compare it to. But, not quite the same calibre as Kellers et al. The atmosphere was truly horrid.

So overall, what to do? Do you put yourself through this type of discomfort to enjoy the food? Or, are you like me, where there could be the best food of your life sitting in front of you, but if you have to shew away the flies, it really isn't worth it?

Stadtlander's food in the right setting.......yes, that could rival those restaurants mentioned. But not until then.

I guess you should go if you've got to get it out of your system, but otherwise, I'd wait to go to an event where he's cooking to enjoy the bliss.

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I've been following Michael for around 20 years now. His early attempts were excellent food but totally disorganized. As much as an hours wait between courses.

However, over time he became the most 'sympathetic' chef in the area. His combinations of food and wine are unmatched in the Toronto area (ironic considering Eigensinn is BYOB). The farm, in the early days, overstepped his reach and meals were patchy. Originally it was a B&B - but that soon ended - too much work and distractions. Michael is easy-going and would often accommodate diners to the detriment of the operation. But he's now cutting back, which is good news for those who can get in. He accepts fewer diners per evening and parties are a maximum of 6 people (if you want more, you have to book the entire restaurant) and a maximum of 14 for the evening. The food is always fresh, local and organic. Hygiene is better (he is inspected regularly). And he's a great chef - but of course, 'your mileage may vary'. A comparison with Alice Waters is very apt, particularly as to philosophy and overall feel.

I haven't been to Taillevent or French Laundry, but from what I've read, those are totally different 'experiences'. At Eigensinn the room is decorated with natural products (e.g. driftwood). It's a little more than camping - but closer to camping than 3* service.

And I don't think that at the French Laundry Thomas Keller will come out at the end, sit with the guests and have someone pull out a guitar and everybody sit around singing songs until 2a.m. That was my favourite memory at Eigensinn. And I can't think of any other similarly regarded restaurant where that would occur. Sometimes it's just magic.

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After reading the last 2 posts, I have to jump in as well. We were at Eiginsinn Farm about 6 months ago. Although we were disillusioned with certain dishes, the whole experience was very unique.

He knows how to execute flavours, textures, mesh cuisines into something special. Even exquisite
I couldn't agree more. There were some hits and misses if you want me to be picky about each one of them. There were some amazing combinations of flavors such as something like apple cider sauce in a vegetable risotto that included blue potatoes and I can't remember exactly what else. But, the foie gras was botched up. The duck was so so; and the lobster was not well cooked on one of the plates. And overall, not one dish came out "hot" out of the kitchen. They were all barely lukewarm. The kitchen is so close to the dining room, there is no excuse for that, especially not with the soup (which I recall was an excellent consomme with 2 raviolis in it).

He did come out and talked with us at great length in a very friendly manner. It was a very snowy evening; the man even went outside and cleaned the snow on my car, as I had forgotten my snow brush. I think part of it was that he wanted to go outside after being in the kitchen for so long perhaps.

Anyways, some of the combinations were the most creative I have ever seen, but it is an entirely different experience than TK or a 3* in Paris. The ambiance does get you transported somehow. And it's quite something to be able to bring 3-4 wines with you without worrying about corkage fees. Overall, my own take on this is that they are getting ready to slow it down to the point of almost retiring. I wouldn't be surprised if that happened anytime soon. So, if you haven't made the pilgrimage to Singhampton, well...

"I hate people who are not serious about their meals." Oscar Wilde

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I think that to compare Eigensinn Farm with the French Laundry is to compleatly miss the point. They are not trying to create a three star restaurant experience- people travel far and wide into their home to experience something unique and as Estufarian points out, compleatly magical. The food is sublime and the chef a true artist and as inovative as any Ferran Aidria ( I would argue that Stadtlander from the early eighties to presant has been as influential and groundbreaking as what we see now in Roses.

There may be dogs and chickens wondering around-as well as cooks who will travel halfway arounf the world to lift very heavy rocks for the chef-and flies (it is Ontario after all) but that is all part of the experience.

cook slow, eat slower

J.Chovancek

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I do not understand how anyone can overlook the cleanliness in a restaurant. The Toronto area has an horrible history of food inspection in restaurants. Usually when a place looks dirty it is probably worse than you would expect. If you are walking through chicken droppings to your meal, turn back and head the other way.

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I would argue that Stadtlander from the early eighties to presant has been as influential and groundbreaking as what we see now in Roses.

I've never been there, and can't dispute any comment made that this is the best, or most creative chef that's ever walked the face of the earth, but for him to have been influential, let alone as influential as Adria, for the past two decades would mean that he's affected the work of other chefs and that his influence has been international. I'm curious how this can be if he gets little or no mention in the international culinary press and I've not heard much about him. Mind you, I'm not disputing the groundbreaking aspect of his cooking, it's just that claims of his influence seen exaggerated. Where might I taste the fruits of his influence in the US, France or Spain?

Robert Buxbaum

WorldTable

Recent WorldTable posts include: comments about reporting on Michelin stars in The NY Times, the NJ proposal to ban foie gras, Michael Ruhlman's comments in blogs about the NJ proposal and Bill Buford's New Yorker article on the Food Network.

My mailbox is full. You may contact me via worldtable.com.

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1/I think that to compare Eigensinn Farm with the French Laundry is to compleatly miss the point.

2/They are not trying to create a three star restaurant experience- people travel far and wide into their home to experience something unique and as Estufarian points out, compleatly magical.

3/The food is sublime and the chef a true artist and as inovative as any Ferran Aidria ( I would argue that Stadtlander from the early eighties to presant has been as influential and groundbreaking as what we see now in Roses.

4/There may be dogs and chickens wondering around-as well as cooks who will travel halfway arounf the world to lift very heavy rocks for the chef-and flies (it is Ontario after all) but that is all part of the experience.

1/Exactly! There IS no comparison. Not in ambiance, not in service, and certainly not in that level of final product.

2/Perhaps that's their veiled hippy attitude. But then I have to ask why in the early days did they employ such heavy PR tactics if all they wanted was a happy-fuzzy "homey" restaurant experience? Also, with the prices they are charging....how exactly can they justify NOT being a 3 star dining experience?

3/OK. This is just laughable. He's good, but he's not THAT good. Don't take this the wrong way, but have you ever EATEN Ferran Adria's food? I enjoy comparisons just as much as the next person, but I'd really hate to think you're just throwing around uneducated comparisons. Please take away my doubting thoughts.

You can argue it. But what are your facts to back it up? HOW has he been "groundbreaking" and "influential"? Are you talking on the Canadian culinary scene, and if yes, then what are the back up examples of that? WHICH chefs has he directly influenced, or are you trying to make believe he's been influential in the international culinary level?

4/To this I only have one question for you: Are you one of those people who picks up food after it's fallen on the ground/floor and still eats it?

But seriously, saying "it's Ontario after all" like it's the backwoods is kinda silly, no? Are we not a civilized province? Do we not have a common set of beliefs on what constitutes good, normal hygiene in a restaurant setting? Can we not agree that if you're paying hundreds of dollars for your meal that the least someone could do is clean up their front "entrance", invest in a few screens for the windows, and allow the dog to rest in his room until the diners have gone home? Is that too much to ask? Or does the foie gras taste BETTER that way?

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I would argue that Stadtlander from the early eighties to presant has been as influential and groundbreaking as what we see now in Roses.

I've never been there, and can't dispute any comment made that this is the best, or most creative chef that's ever walked the face of the earth, but for him to have been influential, let alone as influential as Adria, for the past two decades would mean that he's affected the work of other chefs and that his influence has been international. I'm curious how this can be if he gets little or no mention in the international culinary press and I've not heard much about him. Mind you, I'm not disputing the groundbreaking aspect of his cooking, it's just that claims of his influence seen exaggerated. Where might I taste the fruits of his influence in the US, France or Spain?

Perhaps not globaly, but in Canada he has probably influenced directly or once removed, every finedining cook in the country.

That would appear to be an admission that he's not as influential as Adria.

Robert Buxbaum

WorldTable

Recent WorldTable posts include: comments about reporting on Michelin stars in The NY Times, the NJ proposal to ban foie gras, Michael Ruhlman's comments in blogs about the NJ proposal and Bill Buford's New Yorker article on the Food Network.

My mailbox is full. You may contact me via worldtable.com.

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