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Ideas in Food


docsconz
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One major omission from the second night was a puree of smoked tuna with capers, cauliflower and sriracha that we snacked on a lot bit and was also used on the sixth pizza. The puree (and pizza) was magnificent. I could have spent the whole meal munching just on that with a little of the bread. Of course, this was an A&A concoction!

John Sconzo, M.D. aka "docsconz"

"Remember that a very good sardine is always preferable to a not that good lobster."

- Ferran Adria on eGullet 12/16/2004.

Docsconz - Musings on Food and Life

Slow Food Saratoga Region - Co-Founder

Twitter - @docsconz

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Oh my. I'm another big fan of their blog, and yep, I'm almost painfully jealous. And that's quite a kitchen you have. Nice that it's used so wisely and well!

Alas, the kitchen is not mine. I wish that it were. It is as functional a private kitchen as I know.

John Sconzo, M.D. aka "docsconz"

"Remember that a very good sardine is always preferable to a not that good lobster."

- Ferran Adria on eGullet 12/16/2004.

Docsconz - Musings on Food and Life

Slow Food Saratoga Region - Co-Founder

Twitter - @docsconz

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This weekend's activities really gives a glimpse into the spectrum of the talent of Alex and Aki. Though the blog generally highlights the modern technical side of their cooking, all that is based on solid classic technique. I was fortunate enough to sample the full range of their fare while they were based at Keyah Grande and most importantly their gracious conviviality.

Eliot Wexler aka "Molto E"

MoltoE@restaurantnoca.com

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speechless... Thanks for your generosity and skill in documenting this special event!

Any other details on the preparation of the chicken? Salt, pepper and olive oil? They must have tasted magnificent. Thanks also for the descriptions of all the pizzas.

Edited by ludja (log)

"Under the dusty almond trees, ... stalls were set up which sold banana liquor, rolls, blood puddings, chopped fried meat, meat pies, sausage, yucca breads, crullers, buns, corn breads, puff pastes, longanizas, tripes, coconut nougats, rum toddies, along with all sorts of trifles, gewgaws, trinkets, and knickknacks, and cockfights and lottery tickets."

-- Gabriel Garcia Marquez, 1962 "Big Mama's Funeral"

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the chickens were seasoned with a blended compound butter underneath the skin; part passionfruit-garlic, part basil-mustard-pecorino.

The birds were then placed in the pan which contained residual sausage drippings. part way through the cooking process we added the shiitake mushrooms and then finally the offal.

the birds were carved over the roasting pan to catch all juices which were then enriched with the smashed offal, a glass of red wine (the sauce was thirsty) and a knob of butter. this sauce was then poured over the birds.

h. alexander talbot

chef and author

Levittown, PA

ideasinfood

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^Thanks for the details on the chickens, chef. Sounds wonderful!

"Under the dusty almond trees, ... stalls were set up which sold banana liquor, rolls, blood puddings, chopped fried meat, meat pies, sausage, yucca breads, crullers, buns, corn breads, puff pastes, longanizas, tripes, coconut nougats, rum toddies, along with all sorts of trifles, gewgaws, trinkets, and knickknacks, and cockfights and lottery tickets."

-- Gabriel Garcia Marquez, 1962 "Big Mama's Funeral"

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I figured I could answer a few other questions. The chestnut knot is made with a blend of high and low acyl gellan which allows for a flexible puree when cold and a tender silken hot puree of chestnuts when heated.

We used onsen eggs on the pizza on purpose. While the nice runny yolk is fun the onsen egg reheats as the pizza cooks and yields a custard like yolk on the pizza which is toothsome and tender allowing the yolk to be eaten rather than sopped up.

And yes, we are currently catering intimate dinner parties in and around NY. You can PM me or email me through our website if you are interested.

h. alexander talbot

chef and author

Levittown, PA

ideasinfood

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  • 1 month later...

Docsconz, you do get around! :laugh:

It was interesting to me to hear your observations of the food, as I've only had virtual encounters with their cooking. I've often wondered about the flavor balance with some of the more assertive ingredient combinations, and your comments were helpful in understanding what Alex & Aki are doing. Impressive wines as well!

I'm getting around to this thread a little late, but thanks for sharing with us, yet again.

What a marvelous weekend of feasting and friendship.

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