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Paris Bistros/Bistrots/Restos open Sat/Sun


PCL

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Bon soir Gulleteers...

I've just realised after ringing a few places (bistros) in Paris (Le Reg, Close des Gourmets etc) that most are closed for the Feb/Mar skiing holidays... I'm just trying to save on some international dialling bills, and thought it might just be best to see if anyone in the Paris area knows if any places worth visiting might be open this weekend, but having said that, they're all probably going to be packed...

but it might be worth a shot. We're staying in the Marais, arriving Saturday morning, leaving Monday evening... fingers crossed, and thanks in advance...

"Coffee and cigarettes... the breakfast of champions!"

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What kind of places are you interested in? You've got the "double whammy" of the February vacation period and being in town on a Sunday. Our hotel was a block from Arpege and it looked like they were closed for vacances as well.

We just returned yesterday from a long weekend in Paris and absolutely loved Au Bon Accueil in the 7eme. There's a 29 € menu and several additional a la carte offerings. I had the creamy pumpkin soup, followed by wild boar tenderloins (fabulous) and an apple tart. My husband and friend had the boar rillettes on toast and another special on the menu, lamb shoulder braised in a cabbage leaf. Our other friend ordered a green salad and sea bass a la carte. We all got a coffee cup filled with decadently rich whipped potatoes and a small spoon with which to eat them. The warm chocolate cake and bitter chocolate and mandarin napoleon were wonderful. The restaurant itself is very tiny and more forma than I was anticipating. Almost all of the other patrons were French and quite nicely dressed. Service was excellent.

Sunday night we ate (I use the term "we" loosely, as I was under the weather and did not eat) at Le Petit Pontoise, which was recently written up in the New York Times click here . This is a neighborhood place, just off Blvd St Germain des Pres a little past the Maubert-Mutualite metro stop. It was crowded and lively (and a bit smoky) with mostly Parisians. The menu (all a la carte) is listed on blackboards mounted on the walls. Out friends shared a starter of marinated sardines with roasted peppers and loved it. My husband had a starter of small scallops that were dressed in a Thai-style dressing and formed into a small cake with bean sprouts and oven dried tomatoes. The main dishes were sandre (pike-perch), a brochette of large scallops and rack of lamb. Everything looked wonderful and all of the dishes were wiped clean. Interesting wine list, many organic choices. Wines served by the glass were generous pours from the bottle at the table. Friendly, warm service.

Those are the two I would recommend from this trip. If you are interested in something more formal or gastronomique, we also splurged on a wonderful lunch Saturday at Le Violon d'Ingres. I believe they are open for Saturday dinner as well, and we did not see any notices about vacation closings.

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The 4th Arr. (Marais) is our favorite place to stay in Paris. The lively but not overcrowded, eclectic environment makes for a great experience. Two places from our last visit:

L'Alivi, on a corner, is a cute little bistro that specializes in Corsican cuisine, and all things Corsican, from the artwork on the walls to the spring water, to a very interesting selection of Corsican wines. The seafood selections are lovely, and a couple of interesting meat dishes as well. The ambience is very bistro-like, with about 20 tables.

L'ALIVI

27 RUE DU ROI DE SICILE

75004 PARIS

01 48 87 18 99

On Sunday night, the choices will be much fewer, but a very cute place open Sundays is the Café du Trésor on the dead end rue du Trésor. For those wishing to sit outside with the pole heaters, you could brave it, but the inside is cozy and warm. The menu is small and selective but the food is terrific and simple. A very popular place with the natives.

LE TRESOR

5 RUE DU TRESOR

75004 PARIS

01 42 71 78 35

Edited by menton1 (log)
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One of the 'Os a moelles' was open on Sunday last time I went but that was over a year ago, so you should check. I suspect it's La Cave that's open. Very informal, share-a-table and choose your wine from the front of the shop, very meat oriented place.

La Cave de L'Os à Moëlle - 181 rue de Lourmel 15ieme 01.45.57.28.28

L'Os à Moëlle 3 rue Vasco-de-Gama 15ieme 01.45.57.27.27

Also I thought Ma Bourgogne, which is on the Place de Vosges right near where you're staying was going to be touristy beyond belief. But French friends insisted and we went, and it was very good. Homey food, good value, nice service. Not sure what its closing times but I suspect because it's in a very popular area, it may be open.

19 place des Vosges, 4ieme 01 42 78 44

Edited by magnolia (log)
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Thanks for the ideas. I've got L'Os a Moelle for saturday night, so will have to be vigilant for Sunday. Will try Le Violon for lunch on Monday. Apparently there's a 24hour bistro open on the left bank somewhere covered in another thread so may chance that for Sunday... but given the replies, I think I've got a good chance of finding something for Sunday!....

...can't have too few options!

Thanks again.

"Coffee and cigarettes... the breakfast of champions!"

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Ambassade d’Auvergne in the Marais.

(I know nothing of their hours but they were open in August (also vacation time); wonderful food).

"Under the dusty almond trees, ... stalls were set up which sold banana liquor, rolls, blood puddings, chopped fried meat, meat pies, sausage, yucca breads, crullers, buns, corn breads, puff pastes, longanizas, tripes, coconut nougats, rum toddies, along with all sorts of trifles, gewgaws, trinkets, and knickknacks, and cockfights and lottery tickets."

-- Gabriel Garcia Marquez, 1962 "Big Mama's Funeral"

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We ate at Fontaine de Mars a couple of years ago and found the food to be just okay, although the atmosphere was lively and the service was good. L'Ardoise in the 1ere is open Sunday nights and I still dream about the delicious Filet de Boeuf and my husband's shrimp risotto. Though the clientele was more than 50% American when we were there (same trip as Fontaine de Mars), we sat next to a large party of raucous French couples who were having a grand time drinking their Cerdon du Bugey and eating.

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Thanks for the ideas. I've got L'Os a Moelle for saturday night, so will have to be vigilant for Sunday. Will try Le Violon for lunch on Monday. Apparently there's a 24hour bistro open on the left bank somewhere covered in another thread so may chance that for Sunday... but given the replies, I think I've got a good chance of finding something for Sunday!....

...can't have too few options!

Thanks again.

This might be Au Pied de Cochon on rue Coquillière, near Les Halles.

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Thanks for the ideas. I've got L'Os a Moelle for saturday night, so will have to be vigilant for Sunday. Will try Le Violon for lunch on Monday. Apparently there's a 24hour bistro open on the left bank somewhere covered in another thread so may chance that for Sunday... but given the replies, I think I've got a good chance of finding something for Sunday!....

...can't have too few options!

Thanks again.

This might be Au Pied de Cochon on rue Coquillière, near Les Halles.

Well, I think there are different views on Au Pied de Cochon, but I am not sure whether this touristy and quite expensive 'bistro' is worthwhile going to. And eating fish on Sundays, I am not sure whether that is a good idea either.

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Whatever one thinks of Au Pied de Cochon, it, rue Coquillière (home to Dehillerin, that great cookware shop) and les Halles are all on the Right Bank.

Robert Buxbaum

WorldTable

Recent WorldTable posts include: comments about reporting on Michelin stars in The NY Times, the NJ proposal to ban foie gras, Michael Ruhlman's comments in blogs about the NJ proposal and Bill Buford's New Yorker article on the Food Network.

My mailbox is full. You may contact me via worldtable.com.

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  • 1 year later...

I though I might revive this thread, since I spent Saturday and half Sunday in Paris this past weekend with my niece.

Saturday afternoon we found ourselves in the Marais, and we followed Menton1's advice and went to l'Alivi, where we had lunch on the terrace. The fresh sardines, served on a bed of lemon vinaigrette marinated fennel and sprinkled with coarsely ground pink peppercorns, was simply perfect. I followed by another cold entree since the weather was quite hot, an off-menu salad with smoked boudin noir and chatains (a kind of chestnut). An unlikely but delectable combination. My niece had the corsican sheeps cheese stuffed pasta, which looked very good. I didn't have a taste, though. We did not order dessert or wine. Lunch for the two of us was easy at about €35.

That evening we strolled by the Eiffel Tower and a stone's throw from there is the Cafe Constant where we lucked into a wonderful table by the window upstairs. The fare was a very good value for the money, Lyonnais for the most part, and they had a nice list of wines sold by the glass, which I appreciated very much. I particularly recommend the tete de veau right now, which is perfectly prepared with its sauce gribiche, and presented beautifully. My niece, who is now the expert in quenelles due to her sejour here, said they were excellent.

I was pressed for time at Lunch on Sunday and near the Gare de Lyon, where I was going to pick up my train for home. Beyond the sad looking kiosks selling frites and beer, and towards the gardens, I ran into a place called l'Arrosoir, where I ordered the "planche" which was generally laden with thick slices of jambon de savoie, saucisson sec of several types, some Cantal, butter and salad. Included in the price was a glass of Cote du Rhone. An excellent bargain in nice surroundings with attentive service at 11€.

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I just thought I'd add a recommendation for a restaurant which my husband loves (drags me and anyone else he can with him!) located on rue Montorgueil called L'Epicerie. He discovered this place when he was on a work stint back in 1997, and goes each time he's in Paris. Don't know why it's called Epicerie when the food is not very spicy. It's a homey, not-pretentious restaurant close to Les Halles with consistently good food. I've never seen anyone resembling a tourist there, and it's always full of localsl. My husband always orders their meat gratin dishes with a side of pommes salardaise, and I usually order a fish dish. We've never left dissapointed. If my memory serves me correctly, they are open on Sunday. I'll have to track down the number somehow (it's never been in any guide, to my limited knowledge) or food guides.

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Don't know why it's called Epicerie when the food is not very spicy.

"épicerie" only means "grocery store".

but generally a bit finer than an alimentation. :biggrin:

Robert Buxbaum

WorldTable

Recent WorldTable posts include: comments about reporting on Michelin stars in The NY Times, the NJ proposal to ban foie gras, Michael Ruhlman's comments in blogs about the NJ proposal and Bill Buford's New Yorker article on the Food Network.

My mailbox is full. You may contact me via worldtable.com.

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