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mojoman

Yuzu cream dessert at Komi

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Hello,

I'm new to this forum because I'm not much of a dessert maker. I have been dabbling in the area with some success (caveat - I'm just an amateur but the flavor of the food has been pretty good).

Anyway, last week, I had dinner at Komi, a prix-fixe fine-dinging place (Greek themed) in Washington, DC. One of the desserts was called "yuzu cream with huckleberries" or something like that. I would like to recreate the dessert as best I can.

It had three components.

1. The yuzu cream was a tart, citrusy creamy solid served cold. It was obviously a mixture of cream, yuzu, and sugar what had been "treated" to solidify it into a sheet about 4 mm thick. The chef had then cut the sheet into triangles or diamonds, maybe 3.5 cm per edge. I'm thinking it might be a firm panna cotta (gelatin was the thickener?). It didn't taste eggy so I don't think it was thickened with eggs. I'm thinking about making a panna cotta mixture that had the right balance of yuzu and sugar, then adding gelatin. Do you think doubling the gelatin in a regular panna cotta would achieve the right texture (just firm enough to stay in the discrete shape when placed on edge on a plate but not all rubbery and gross? In the experimental phase, I plan to use lemon or lime juice to simulate the yuzu to save $$$. Will this affect the recipe when the yuzu is actually used?

2. The chef had made a huckleberry compote. This I can do although I'd probably have to use blueberries.

3. There was a tuile-like thingy stuck into the yuzu cream. I think it was fillo dough that had been layered with butter and sugar and baked to a delicious crispy texture. The sheet had been cut into triangles about the same size as the yuzu cream. I think I can execute this but does anyone have any tips to do so? Do I cut it to the final size before or after baking? How best to make sure the layers stick together?

Many thanks for any and all responses I get.


Edited by mojoman (log)

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If the yuzu cream was cut after it was molded (and not just molded in a triangular/diamond shape) then I really doubt it was just gelatin that was used as the gelling agent. There are other hydrocolloids that could add stability to the cream and allow it to be cut. Maybe iota carrageenen or a blend of kappa carrageenan and some other softening gum (locust bean gum, xanthan gum)? Something that would provide a more brittle yet elastic gel.

As for the phyllo triangle, just buy a package of frozen phyllo dough. Lay out one sheet (keep the others covered under a slightly damp towel while you work), lightly brush with melted butter, sprinkle with sugar, lay another layer on top (press to remove as much air space between them), and repeat with another couple layers. Cut them into the shape you want and lay out on a parchment or silpat lined sheet tray. Put another piece of parchment or silpat on top and weigh down with another sheet tray.

Good luck!

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I suggest emailing Johnny Monis via Komi's web site and asking. I have had a few conversations with Chef Monis and found him to be a down to earth friendly guy. I can't say for sure he will part with the recipe but it's worth a try.

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The only addition I have is that I did something similar with phyllo this weekend, and I wanted precision (alignment) with the rest of the dessert. I covered with parchment, then weighted it with a second cookie sheet for about 7 minutes, then removed the cookie sheet and allowed it to finish baking. The result was a perfectly flat, perfectly sized rectangle of 10 shees of phyllo that did have some lift, but they stuck together.

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i've made phyllo sheets that are more caramelized by using a simple syrup, butter blend to brush. i make a packet of the phyllo (cut before baking) between two sheets of parchment (folded up so that the syrup doesn't leak and make a mess) and then baked between the backs (bottoms) of sheet pans (one on the bottom and several on the top)

they come out more 'candied' than flaky and it is a very nice effect

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i've made phyllo sheets that are more caramelized by using a simple syrup, butter blend to brush.  i make a packet of the phyllo (cut before baking) between two sheets of parchment (folded up so that the syrup doesn't leak and make a mess) and then baked between the backs (bottoms) of sheet pans (one on the bottom and several on the top)

they come out more 'candied' than flaky and it is a very nice effect

Ditto to alana on the phyllo...

Maybe the cream was "baked on an antigriddle

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