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eG Foodblog: Peter Green - Bringing Bangkok back home


Peter Green

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Hey, cool!

I just tried a google on bamboo worms (they live in the roots) and I picked up a link that I'm blocked from that suggests that they may be hallucinogenic!

www.erowid.org/animals/bamboo_worm/ 1984_britton_j-ethnopharmacology.htm

Anyone want to follow this up?

(I'm still excited about finding out that Uncle Scrooge was an MDA addict, hooked on nutmeg, and so wired he had to send Donald and the boys to the jungle to secure his supply)

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

A Pointer to a New Hallucinogen of Insect Origin

E.B. Britton

27 Galway Place, Deakin, Canberra ACT 2600 (Australia)

(Accepted August 28, 1984)

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

The purpose of this note is to draw attention to a long forgotten observa-

tion which points to the existence of a new hallucinogen, unique in that its

source is an insect.

Augustin de Saint-Hilaire (1779-1853) travelled extensively in eastern

Brazil between 1816 and 1823 and after his return to France published

valuable observations on the geography, ethnology and natural history of the

country. In two of his unpublished works Saint-Hilaire (1824, republished

Jenkins, 1946, p. 49; 1830, pp. 432-433) described the use of an insect as

food and medicine by the Malalis, natives in the Brazilian province of Minas

Gerais.

The relevant passage (1824) (translated) is as follows:

When I was among the Malalis, in the province of Mines, they spoke much of a grub

which they regarded as a delicious food, and which is called bicho de tacuara (bamboo-

worm), because it is found in the stems of bamboos, but only when these bear flowers.

Some Portugese who have lived among the Indians value these worms no less than the

natives themselves; they melt them on the fire, forming them into an oily mass, and

so preserve them for use in the preparation of food. The Malalis consider the head of

the bicho de tacuara as a dangerous poison; but all agree in saying that this creature,

dried and reduced to powder constitutes a powerful vulnerary (for the healing of

wounds). If one is to believe these Indians and the Portugese themselves it is not only

for this use that the former preserve the bicho de tacuara . When strong emotion makes

them sleepless, they swallow, they say, one of these worms dried, without the head

but with the intestinal tube; and then they fall into a kind of ecstatic sleep, which often

lasts more than a day, and similar to that experienced by the Orientals when they take

opium in excess. They tell, on awakening, of marvellous dreams; they saw splendid

forests, they ate delicious fruits, they killed without difficulty the most choice game;

but these Malalis add that they take care to indulge only rarely in this debilitating

kind of pleasure. I saw them only with the bicho de tacuara dried and without heads;

but during a botanical trip that I made to Saint-Francois with my Botocudo, this

young man found a great many of these grubs in flowering bamboos, and set about

eating them in my presence. He broke open the creature and carefully removed the

head and intestinal tube, and sucked out the soft whitish substance which re-

mained in the skin. In spite of my repugnance, I followed the example of the young

savage, and found, in this strange food, an extremely agreeable flavour which recalled

that of the most delicate cream.

If then, as I can hardly doubt, the account of the Malalis is true, the narcotic

property of the bicho de tacuara resides solely in the intestinal tube, since the sur-

rounding fat produces no ill effect. Be that as it may, I submitted to M. Latreille the

description of the animal I had made, and this learned entomologist recognised

it as a caterpillar probably belonging to the genus 'Cossus' or to the genus 'Hepiale'.

These observations are repeated in Saint-Hilaire (1839, pp. 432-433) with

the addition of the information that the "bicho de taquara" are half as long

as the index finger.

The intoxicating effect of the larvae from bamboo has apparently been

forgotten in Brazil and the seven volume Handbook of South American

Indians (Steward, 1946-1959) while referring briefly to the observation of

Saint-Hilaire in Vol. 5 (p. 557) gives no additional references. This is perhaps

not surprising as the Malalis were a near-coastal tribe long ago overrun by the

advance of civilisation. The name "bicho de taquara" is, however, still in use

and according to Ihering (1932, p. 236) and Costa Lima (1936, p. 266;

1967, p. 246) refers to the larva of the moth Myelobia (Morpheis) smerintha

Huebner (Lepidoptera: Pyralidae : Crambinae).

Costa Lima (1967, p. 246) states that the larvae feed in common bamboos

including Nastes (=Nastus) barbatus Trin., "taquara lixa" (Merostachys

Rideliana Rupr.), "taquara poca" (Merostachys Neesii Rupr.) and "taquaras-

su" (Guadua sp.) (Hoehne, F.C. et al.). The larvae feed inside the internodes

of the bamboo and attain a maximum length of about 10 cm. The moth

emerges in September and has frequently appeared in plague proportions.

There are 24 species of Myelobia in South America, one in Mexico and one

in Guatemala. The statement by Saint-Hilaire that the larvae are only found

when the bamboo is in flower probably means that the host bamboos flower

annually (as do a number of Brazilian species) and it is at that time that the

larvae reach their maximum size. As the adult moth emerges in September

this is probably in July or August.

It appears from the observations of Saint-Hilaire that the active substance

is not destroyed by drying, and the need to remove the head and gut to

avoid intoxication suggests that it is contained in the salivary glands. The

active material could therefore be concentrated initially by removing the

head plus salivary glands and part of the gut, discarding the rest of the body.

In view of the interest in the pharmacology of hallucinogens and the

medicinal use of the dried and powdered larvae it would seem to be woth-

while to investigate what appears to be a new source, and as the insect is

large and common it would be well suited to biochemical study. It is of

particular interest that this would be the first hallucinogen of insect origin.

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Along with Thai curries, we’re also addicted to Korean curries (I’ll let the Japanophiles take umbrage with that).  Those bricks of Glico, and S&B, are good enough to eat like chocolate bars.

Possibly the most exhaustive pantry-slash-fridge tour we've seen to date on eGullet. Impressive.

No umbrage but I'm curious about one point. When you say Korean curry, do you mean that the packaged roux formulas taste notably different from the Japanese ones? (Bearing in mind that both Glico and S&B are Japanese companies.)

Is the heat level just higher? I had always assumed they were the same or at least pretty similar.

Edited by sanrensho (log)
Baker of "impaired" cakes...
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gallery_28660_5178_121581.jpg

Along with Thai curries, we’re also addicted to Korean curries (I’ll let the Japanophiles take umbrage with that).  Those bricks of Glico, and S&B, are good enough to eat like chocolate bars.

No umbrage but I'm curious about one point. When you say Korean curry, do you mean that the packaged roux formulas taste notably different from the Japanese ones? (Bearing in mind that both Glico and S&B are Japanese companies.)

Is the heat level just higher? I had always assumed they were the same or at least pretty similar.

Nope, no difference whatsoever. (They are Japanese companies) I'm just trying to "curry favour" with my favourite Korean here.

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Okay, dinner.

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Normally, I’d do this sour curry as a steamed curry, but I wanted to try this instead. First, I broke down the curry in oil with some kaffir lime leaf to soften the bite.

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Meanwhile, the mushrooms, lily flower, basil, and fungus was ready.

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meanwhile I reduced the fluid in the meat, which was fried first to a medium done before the stock went in. The idea is to reduce to dry, but there was probably too much fat in there, so it wasn’t going to dry.

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Close to the finish, I tossed in the fungus and lily flower.

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at the last mintue I tossed in the ‘shrooms,

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while Yoonhi pulled the meat off the heat.

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The end result? The gaeng hung lay is so soft, squeezy, juicy soft with a crust of sugar. No bite, though, but that’s okay. It reminds me a little of the pork I’d had at Sarah Jane’s earlier.

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And the mushrooms had that odd, coconut milk free tang of tamarind, with the dirt/earth of the fungus. It’ll clear your mouth and your sinuses easily enough, but you can still sense the mushroom in there.

Yoonhi’s happy for now.

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That kitchen is significantly bigger than mine. Nice.

I wonder if the worms are dead before they are fried. Dont need a gradient to induce curling if you have muscle action going on, as in the not dead or the just very recently and barely dead (truit bleu or however its properly written).

Lily buds - the daylilies we grow in our yards? Do you know genus & species by any chance? What do they taste like (Duh. They taste like lily buds.)

"You dont know everything in the world! You just know how to read!" -an ah-hah! moment for 6-yr old Miss O.

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That kitchen is significantly bigger than mine. Nice.

I wonder if the worms are dead before they are fried. Dont need a gradient to induce curling if you have muscle action going on, as in the not dead or the just very recently and barely dead (truit bleu or however its properly written).

Lily buds - the daylilies we grow in our yards? Do you know genus & species by any chance?  What do they taste like (Duh. They taste like lily buds.)

I am ignorant on both counts, I must admit.

I would suspect the grubs are alive, or close to it. It'd be too much trouble to kill them. I still think the symmetry of the grub has more to do with it. Which direction would they curl?

For the particular lily blossoms the Thai use, I'm going to have to do some searching.

Anybody out there want to chime in?

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symmetry - you have a point. If it tries to curl in all directions at once, its gonna go very straight. And yes, killing and yet keeping fresh would be wayyyyy to much work.

"You dont know everything in the world! You just know how to read!" -an ah-hah! moment for 6-yr old Miss O.

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I lifted this from The Asian Cookshop

Chinese Lily Flowers (dried) 30g

Also known as golden needles and tiger lilies, dried lily buds are the unopened flowers of day lilies. The lily has been used in China as both a food and medicine for over 2,000 years. Dried lily buds are yellow-gold in color, with a musky or earthy taste. Two dishes featuring lily buds are Muxi Pork, a stir-fried dish, and Hot and Sour Soup.

Store them in a jar in a cool and dry place.

Before using, you may need to cut off about a quarter inch at the bottom to get rid of the woody stem. Like many other "woodsy" Chinese vegetables, lily buds must be soaked in warm water (in this case for about thirty minutes) before use. They can then be left whole or cut in half crosswise as called for in the recipe. Or, for better flavor, try tying them in a knot.

What's Up Tiger Lily? I'd like to say that I feel a Woody Allen moment coming on, but would that be kosher in a heavily Thai Korean thread?

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Peter

Seeing the Shoprite (NY-NJ-CT)products is a little confusing...you are from the west coast of Canada and...

And what is your lovely wife doing to turn potato dumpling mix into gnocchi? I must know.

tracey

The great thing about barbeque is that when you get hungry 3 hours later....you can lick your fingers

Maxine

Avoid cutting yourself while slicing vegetables by getting someone else to hold them while you chop away.

"It is the government's fault, they've eaten everything."

My Webpage

garden state motorcyle association

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Peter

Seeing the Shoprite (NY-NJ-CT)products is a little confusing...you are from the west coast of Canada and...

And what is your lovely wife doing to turn potato dumpling mix into gnocchi? I must know.

tracey

Tagged it! The cheap-o balsamic in the cupboard. Darned if I can remember where we bought that. It might be from the local Geant or Carrefour here. Either that or our local grocery. I'll post a picture tomorrow of the decent balsamic we picked up in Bahrain last trip.

As for the gnocchi, if Yoonhi's talking to me tomorrow, I'll bug her for the procedure (but they're good gnocchi).

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Uh-oh, I heard a yell from the kitchen.

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My kitchen looks far worse than that at times even after my best efforts not to use every pot and pan in the place.

I loved your fridge, freezer and pantry pics. I thought you were going to pull the Lindbergh baby out at some point! :wink:

Loving the blog.

Edited by monavano (log)
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Peter, your blog is a wild ride! I am still looking up lots of stuff like the names of dishes, ingredients, geography, etc. Thanks. Here are a few random (and possibly useless) comments:

This particular one, at the corner of Silom and Rama IV, has been terrifying my children for years

That has to be the creepiest clown I have ever seen.

I could talk about the eating habits of the phii kraseu

Woah, that gave me flashbacks of a very scary movie I had forgotten about.

Yoonhi bought me an Emile Henri tajine.

Good thing for us she did, the lamb looks great. (my wife gave me the same one for xmas, in red)

Bamboo worms.

Bamboo worms?!?

The pink stuff is just pickled ginger.

I stopped eating that stuff when I read the ingredients. Easy to make, too.

I collect dried mushrooms, okay? Is that a problem?

There are far worse hobbies.

Your fridge and pantry are outrageous, and your family looks/sounds lovely!

Peter Gamble aka "Peter the eater"

I just made a cornish game hen with chestnut stuffing. . .

Would you believe a pigeon stuffed with spam? . . .

Would you believe a rat filled with cough drops?

Moe Sizlack

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You’ll  have to turn your head for this one.  Trust me, you’ll feel better.  This is where things get rough.  Stuff just sort of gets crammed in here, and then it’s a free for all trying to dig things out.  This is also the final resting place of fresh Thai ingredients that I don’t get around to using.  Much of it will work well frozen for taste, but you lose the texture.  I take no responsibility for the bananas, however.  That was someone else.

i am trying to contain myself since i am at the reference desk right now but i love the writing and your delving into the world of the fridge is wonderful. hey, freezing your bananas is the best way i know for banana bread or banana cake. just take the required number of pods out of the freezer, let thaw in a bowl and they are the perfect consistency for use.

glad i finally got back to work to catch up...

Nothing is better than frying in lard.

Nothing.  Do not quote me on this.

 

Linda Ellerbee

Take Big Bites

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Terrific show, Peter! I am still staggering from "visual foodfests" of your other blogs!

Great job, Serena!

Beansprouts and rice is one of my comfort foods, as are Panni potato dumplins. I use them as dumplings in stew - the only kind my family likes. I always have acouple of pkgs in my pantry - but a case!? :huh: I guess accessibilty is the problem.

Your lamb looks great. Must get a tangine...must get a tangine... :wacko:

Congratualtions on your anniversary!

Dejah

www.hillmanweb.com

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Terrific show, Peter! I am still staggering from "visual foodfests" of your other blogs!

Great job, Serena!

Beansprouts and rice is one of my comfort foods, as are Panni potato dumplins. I use them as dumplings in stew - the only kind my family likes. I always have acouple of pkgs in my pantry - but a case!?  :huh: I guess accessibilty is the problem.

Your lamb looks great. Must get a tangine...must get a tangine... :wacko:

Congratualtions on your anniversary!

Thanks, Dejah!

I've just got to figure out what to do for Yoonhi today, seeing as I don't really have options in terms of buying presents (I tend to give them out right away, rather than hording them for occassions - as opposed to food items).

Maybe if I just let her sleep in? Sleep is a good thing.

Cheers,

Peter

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Get distracted for a couple of days (I may live to regret having run for VP of Marketing for my chorus and won [what chorus? I refer you to my own foodblogs]. Naaaah), and the party just rolls on, and then you have to run hard to catch up. Okay, I'm catching up, but before I comment further, I must commend you on your "Weird Al" Yankovic reference to start your epic "horror" pic, It Came from Inside the Fridge:

Livin’ In The Fridge – part 1

I promised this, and now I’ve lived to regret it.

[We know you really wanted it!  :biggrin: ]

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If I pull out the gochujang we can see the daen jang paste collection, and some Malagassy peppercorns in brine.

"daen jang" = Thai for "miso"?

Actually, I could use some help here for the next time I venture into Hung Vuong or the H-Mart.

There seem to be numerous varieties of soybean paste, but I haven't yet been able to figure out what distinguishes one from another other than color and degree of saltiness (or mild vs. strong soy flavor), nor which varieties should be used in what dishes. (I've yet to make my own miso soup, but I like it in salad dressing, which is where I usually use it. I'll entertain other suggestions.)

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Now you can cover your ears.  I hate rooting around in the freezer.  Stuff invariably falls out and lands on my toes.  It wasn’t so bad when we had a standing freezer in the garage, but it died in June, so everything has found its way in here or the pantry now.

Get yourself a pair of slippers and put them on before rummaging. They may not be compatible with the climate in Thailand, but sheepskin- or fleece-lined ones would probably be ideal for this purpose. They may not eliminate all pain, but they will blunt the force of the falling UFOs (unidentified frozen objects).

We had to overnight one time at Heathrow with a cooler of salmon.  The hotel (the Meridien, I believe) was kind enough to let us keep the fish in their kitchen fridge (this was in the less-paranoid days).  The next day, as we were checking out, the chef stopped by to ask out of curiousity what was in there.  When we told him it was 30kg of wild BC salmon he started banging his head and wishing  he’d know, as larceny would’ve been in the offing.

If you haven't read it already, I think you would get a big kick from the title essay in this collection of humorous essays by Umberto Eco (the brilliant semiotician who wrote the best-selling novel The Name of the Rose). Eco gets in touch with his inner crumudgeon in this and most of the other essays in this book. One hilarious phrase from this essay stuck in my brain:

"I asked for a lawyer and he handed me an avocado."

(I suspect this sentence works every bit as well in the original Italian.)

Just one note on the second installment of your fridge tour: Exercise extreme caution before traveling into certain U.S. cities bearing foie. That's all I will say on that subject. (Except that I plan on trying some for $5 next week. I think this event has been noted on the Pennsylvania board.)

I was going to comment on the presence of ShopRite products in your kitchen, too, but another poster has already covered that territory. My only question is: Were these products that "fell off the truck" somewhere between the warehouse in New Jersey and an actual ShopRite, or has some enterprising member of the Wakefern cooperative developed a lucrative business as a reseller abroad?

Of all the teas, I probably like pu’er the best.  I don’t know if I hold with the slimming element, seeing as I’m not getting any smaller, but I love that dark, full flavour, but without any bitterness.

That's nice, but what about its antioxidant value? :wink:

Now, this all may seem a little over the top, but I put it down to the expat lifestyle.  You get in the habit overseas of never taking things for granted.  What’s on the shelves this week may never be seen again, so you tend to stock up, to horde like dwarves in their caverns. 

Even the indiginous stuff was more of a target of opportunity.  In Egypt there were things like snow peas that we would see once, and then never again. The Egyptians have a wonderful saying (the Egyptians have a lot of wonderful sayings, actually, they’re a lot of fun) “ma fish mishmish” – “there are no tangerines”.  These would be on the shelves literally for only one day of the year (but they were good when they were there).

Well, this certainly explains how you came to take the concept of "condiment creep" to a level unimaginable to us mere mortals. Compared to you, the rest of us collectors are pikers.

Except for my fellow Pennsylvanian, Lori, who keeps an entire supermarket in her basement. (If you didn't catch her foodblog when it ran, you might also want to check out the grocery shopping in her area, posted a couple of pages earlier in her blog. Confidential to the Foodblog Czarina: The index was a big help in my finding the post for reference, but I see it hasn't been added to since May.)

Sandy Smith, Exile on Oxford Circle, Philadelphia

"95% of success in life is showing up." --Woody Allen

My foodblogs: 1 | 2 | 3

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Thanks, Doddie! 

Hey, when's the Icheon Rice Festival?  I just read about it in a 2004 Korea guide, so I hope it's on again this year.

Cheers,

peter

Peter, the Icheon Rice festival will be on the 25th to the 28th of October this year.

More infor on the Icheon Rice Festival...

I'm planning to head over there (at Seolbong Park where the Biennale Ceramic Festival is also held). Icheon is about 30 minutes away from where I am (Janghowon). I plan to be there in the Rice Festival to give a foodie report. :biggrin:

Doddie aka Domestic Goddess

"Nobody loves pork more than a Filipino"

eGFoodblog: Adobo and Fried Chicken in Korea

The dark side... my own blog: A Box of Jalapenos

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&view

"daen jang" = Thai for "miso"?

Sorry, Sandy, I’m confusing at the best of times, I know. Daen jang is my butchered translation of the Korean hangul (script) for their bean paste, used in a number of their dishes. As I’m going to Korea in a week, I’ll stick by my strident nationalism and state that this is very much a Korean ingredient, being much more robust than the mild Japanese miso (ask me again when I'm going to Japan :biggrin: )

Get yourself a pair of slippers and put them on before rummaging.  They may not be compatible with the climate in Thailand, but sheepskin- or fleece-lined ones would probably be ideal for this purpose.  They may not eliminate all pain, but they will blunt the force of the falling UFOs (unidentified frozen objects).

I do have a pair of slippers, but I never remember to put them on, except when I have a long cooking bout on the go (the tiled floors get to me). And these are hot.

gallery_28660_5178_53129.jpg

And I’ll have to look for Eco’s collection. I do admire his writing.

Just one note on the second installment of your fridge tour:  Exercise extreme caution before traveling into certain U.S. cities bearing foie.

We were “raided” by PETA during the 2006 WGF. It’s hard to take such a thing seriously when they’re giggling, but I do know that things are getting out of hand in North America (see also the latest thread on the FDA and unpasteurized cheese ). Maybe that’s why I go there so seldom anymore.

Never having been on the East Coast, the ShopRite connection had gone over my head (a lot of things do, probably explaining the thinning hair up there). I’ll check out our local grocery for more, but I suspect that the goods are coming through one of the big French chains we frequent here (“Zut allors! Les produits Americaines ici?”)

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Also, as I recall, I'd promised a shot of the Balsamic.

gallery_28660_5178_43309.jpg

I'm cheap, so I didn't go for the really aged stuff.

I found this in a small, new shop that has opened recently in the Seef Mall in Manama. They sell olive oils, balsamic vinegar, and parmesan. And that's about it. Good quality material. I just hope there's enough of a market to keep them going. They're just around the corner from Paul, the new French bakery that's opened up, so, along with the cinemas, there's a good reason to go to Seef now. (and there's still a rumour that the abandoned Blue Elephant structure may be reopened as a Buddha Bar).

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Sabai Mak

In Thailand, there are meals and, not surprisingly, there are “meals!”

In the first instance, you’re eating because you’re hungry. You have work to do (well, sort of) and you need something in your belly to get you through to the next meal. Street vendors and food courts are good for this. And, as the Thai are far more discerning about their food than the average Westerner, these options are generally of a very good standard, and many have a cult following, but that’s the material for several books. You could write one volume just on who has the best Isaan roasted chicken.

When the Thai go out for food, they’re going out for the evening. Like the food, there should be a proper blend for the tongue, the eyes, the ears, and the nose. And you want company.

You want sabai as much as you want sanuk. Sanuk is fun. That’s easy. In fact, it’s pretty hard not to have sanuk in Bangkok (at least if you have money). Sabai is more a description of everything working together in harmony, with a cerrtain fullness of well being. I suppose the German gemutlichheit might be close.

One of the best options for sabai in Bangkok is the river. The Chao Phraya buffers much of the noise that blankets the city (unless you’re right at a pier, when you have to deal with the whistles – but those are only for short bursts). There are no buildings to obstruct the view, or the breeze, and there’s usually the soft traffic of boats to provide movement, and the bridges to provide anchors for your vision (and to be lit up at night). And, as many of these restaurants are built out over the river, space for you and your friends isn’t as big a problem as in the city.

Up North, in Chiang Mai, this is considered de rigeur. An evening out would be held alongside the Ping, or up by the reservoir.

When I was up in CM a couple of years ago (my first trip back since 1991), scouting for a longer stay for the family, I asked the local Thai where the best place to spend the night was. Uniformly, I was told The Good View.

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I loved the place. Big, clean. Simple wooden tables, but well kept up. And excellent Northern cuisine. And beer. And live music. And just perched alongside the river, across the bridge from the hustle and bustle of the town.

Did I mention beer?

In late 2004 we took a small house for the month of December, just beside Wat Gate on Thanon Charonraj. This placed us just five minutes walk from The Good View (and a host of other restaurants and bars on Charoenraj). We were there so Yoonhi and Scud could study at a massage school. The purpose of this being so that Scud could provide his mother a proper massage, and so that Yoonhi would know if he was doing it right. Meanwhile, Serena and I were taking Thai language lessons, something I’d wanted to do for ages (and which Serena turned out way too young for). Our classes were only half days, and invariably Serena and I would end up at the Good View for quiet lunches and treats.

While there, I talked with the owner. He’d had a large Thai restaurant in the US, in Ft. Lauderdale, if I remember correctly, and had been approached to sell out. He figured the money was good, so he took the offer and came back to Chiang Mai to build the sort of place he’d like to go to with his friends. That was in 1996, and he was still going strong.

Well, this trip I was leafing through the “where to eat” guides, and I saw that he’d come through on his plans to open a place in Bangkok. He had a place on the river, and away from the crowds (or as away as you can get in Krungthep Mahanakorn).

First step to getting somewhere in this city: how far can you get on the Skytrain or Underground?

gallery_28660_5178_148041.jpg

As I’d mentioned earlier, I swear by Nancy Chandler’s maps. (When I don’t have one on me, I swear a lot more, but that’s a different matter). This gives us a good overview of Bangkok proper, without the extended area of Greater Bangkok.

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I needed to get down bast the Krungthep Rama III Bridge. You see the Good View just below that. Our best option was to get to the Saphan Taksin station, and then get one of Bangkok’s “readily available taxis” to take us the rest of the way down Charoen Krung.

Good plan. No taxis. At least not until we crossed the street and took one going into town empty in the rain, and worked with him for a few kilometers of one way traffic to get in the right direction.

But that was a minor matter. We made it to the Good View, and it was what I’d hoped for.

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The grounds looked good. A lot of open space, lit softly to highlight the trees and greenery. Big tables, so you can easily fit a dozen or more together, or break off a separate table for three heft sized farang like us.

And inside, at a nice remove, there was a live band playing the blues. The music was piped out through the restaurant, but not at the deafening levels that kill conversation.

After the traffic, I was feeling sabai.

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First thing on the table was stir fried ivy gourd leaves with mushrooms. Good mellow flavours with rice.

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And, as we’d been lusting after the oysters that Paul Wilson had prepared, we decided to go with a half dozen fresh ones, with the appropriate Thai condiments of basil pesto, chili paste, fried shallots, and fresh greens, limes, ginger, and chilis.

Now, I have to say, I was disappointed in the oysters. I should’ve known bettter. The fresh ones we get in Bangkok tend to be extremely large, with the consistency of something a tuberculosis patient might bring up on a real bad day. We’ve got these in Vancouver, too, but there they’d go into a chowder or something (and would probably be excellent in Wilson’s oyster pannacotta).

An oyster should be more like the ones from Brittany, or Fannie Bays, or Sydney Rocks….

Okay, I wasn’t thrilled. Note to self, stop ordering oysters in Thailand unless you know where they’re from.

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Then they brought out the kranab, a fish mousse grilled in banana leaves, and stir fried coconut tips. I love coconut tips, with their crunch and the background of sweetness.

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A nice bit of duck came out, too, with a very rich sweet sauce to acccompany it.

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One of the guys wanted fried rice, so we ordered the khao phat poo (crab).

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And I’d come particularly for the Northern cuisine. Fried smoked fermented sausage is one of those things you really have to hard to find down here in Central Thailand. You can get a lot of good Isaan food, but this stuff is not on the readily available list.

Somewhat easier to source down here, the sai eua were good, too, with lots of herbs worked into the mince.

And Lanna cuisine always keeps your fingers busy, niblling at the accompaniments that come with the dishes and are need to complement the flavours and textures.

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And grilled pork neck. This may be my favourite beer food. Along with som tam, which we also ordered (but didn’t make it into this shot).

And that’s probably my only beef with the Good View here. Up North, you could order beers in these tall dispensers that looked like the old gas station filling tanks, where they would pump the fuel up to a set level, and then top you up. Here it was by the bottle. And beyond that, I’d had my heart set upon a bottle of Maekhong (local whiskey – although I think it tastes more like rum) with soda and coke. It’s a good drink for the burn of Thai food, and I enjoy the whole ritual of the pouring and receiving……

Sigh….you can’t have everything.

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But, as we leisurely worked over our dinner and drinks, what I did have was the appropriate feeling of content.

Sabai.

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