Potato Leek Soup

[slarochelle]

I tried my hand at potato leek soup last night. I'd seen it enough on TV and figured I could do it without a recipe. The results tasted good, but did not turn out like expected. I was going for a smooth, thin soup, and got something more like paste, hardly pourable.

What I did: Saute 1 1/2 leeks (usable end) sliced thin in butter for a few minutes. Added 2 russet potatoes, peeled and cubed. Stirred to coat w/leek and butter, added salt and let cook for another minute. Then covered with water, brought to boil, and returned to simmer till potatoes were tender. Removed it from the heat and took a stick blender to it, adding ~2 tbsp butter, 1/2 cup cream, pepper and salt to taste. Return to heat to keep warm.

The outcome looked more like a mashed potato derivative then a soup. I was going for something that would cover the back of spoon, not something the spoon could stand up in.

I think I had the proportions and potato wrong. Can someone here confirm this? Next time, I'll try 3 leeks and 1 potato, instead of 1 1/2 leek & 2 potato. I used a russet thinking the higher starch would help thicken things up. It looks like I don't need much help thickening things, maybe there's a better potato choice?

Thanks,

Steve

[Jinmyo]

I use Yukon Gold potatoes, chicken stock, white wine. Since I uaually go through two ten pound bags of potatoes when I make this I won't go into proportions. I think if you simply use a lot more liquid, you'll be fine.

[Suzanne F]

One suspicion confirmed.

One relatively simple recipe (for 4 servings) calls for 3 leeks, 1 medium onion, 2 medium potatoes ("about 12 ounces"), 1 quart of chicken stock, and 1 1/2 cups of heavy cream. So you needed more leeks, less potatoes, and more liquid. The onion bumps up the flavor a bit.

Do you know that you could have just thinned it out with more cream and some vegetable stock (since you had used water in the first place, that keeps it vegetarian)?

The couple of recipes I checked don't specify type of potato. I think the proportions are more important.

[snowangel]

The couple of recipes I checked don't specify type of potato.  I think the proportions are more important.

I have much better luck if I don't use red potatos. I use russets or yukon golds for best results.

[slarochelle]

Thanks for the input.

SuzanneF, I would have added more cream, but I ran out. I didn't want to add more broth or water; I was afraid it would deaden the flavor. Actually when I saw it done (on a Jacques and Julia special maybe?), they said to use water only and that stock/broth would hide the flavor of the leek and potato. Even then, they only used enough water to cover the potatoes. I don't remember how much cream they used, but I'm sure I was way short.

Next time; more leek, less potato (Yukon), maybe more water to cover potato, and keep more cream or half and half on hand, like a couple cups.

Maybe then I'll get something that will be a consistency that can be served warm or chilled.

Thanks all.

[Bux]

I've had very few potatoes in the US that have had enough flavor of their own. I can get beautiful potatoes at the Greenmarket for $2.50 a pound and up with wonderful flavor, but otherwise my potato soups have always benefited from some stock. Nevertheless, the density of the soup is going to be a related to the amount of potato and the amount of liguid. It may not be directly proportional to the respective weights and maybe we need the molecular gastronomists here.

First let me note the caution of Julia Child whose book taught us the basic potage recipe. She prefered a food mill to electirc blenders. It was a matter of texture for her. Since then I've read warnings about trying to make mashed potatoes in a food processor--something about the starch turning to glue. I wonder if that isn't happening when an immersion blender is used to puree the potatoes for potato soup. If not, it's just the proportion of potatoes to liquid.

[chefette]

For home consumption I usually use 2 leeks sliced thin and sweated in 2 T olive oil, add 1 qt chicken stock, and 2 yukon gold potatos (about the size of my fist) cut into small dice, bring to boil, add 1 chicken breast finely diced (easiest if frozen) and simmer until potatos are tender - add water if necessary, salt and pepper to taste. I'm making it tonight -ummmm.

I don't add milk or cream, and do not puree. I like it better this way. But as you see from the replies, there is no secret. Just common sense and personal taste. If it's too thick, make it thinner with whatever makes the most sense - water, chicken stock, milk, wine. Some people actually prefer a leek and potato soup without any stock or dairy added, so not to cloud the pure flavors of the leek and potato. No rights or wrongs, it is soup.

[Aix]

Trust me: use a food mill. The texture come out infinitely better. Straining helps too if you're too lazy to use/wash your food mill (as I often am).

[rozrapp]

I take a very simple approach. For about 6 to 8 servings, chop up 2 large leeks, peel and dice 3 large potatoes (I have used Eastern, but lately I've been using Yukon Gold), and put them into a pot with a quart of water. Bring it all to a boil, season with salt and freshly ground pepper to taste (I use very little salt and lots of pepper), then reduce the heat and simmer partially covered until the vegetables are very soft. Let the mix cool slightly, then puree until very smooth in a food processor. Return the puree to the pan and stir in a half cup of heavy cream or creme fraiche. Cook over low heat until heated through. If you would like it thinner, add some more water. Taste and adjust seasonings. If you want vichyssoise, chill the finished soup completely. You can also just mash the hot vegetables in the pot for a more textured soup. Any which way, it's delicious!

[APPS411]

I alter the thickness by the ratio of how much of the mixture I puree. I like to serve this soup w/ some body and texture opposed to just a pure smooth puree.

For instance, after I add the cream to the mixture. I pour 1/2 to 2/3rds of the mixture in a blender and puree, then return in back to the pot. Let it cook for a few minutes, then re-asses the consistency. If it's not think enough, then w/ a slotted spoon, pull out some more of the solid leak and potatos and puree some more. Continue process untill the desired consistency of the base is reached.

Using this method I do not sacrifice or yeild to any inconsistent flavors because I am not adding more ingredients to reach the desired consistency. This also works well with the inconsistency of starch quantity of potatos.

Give it a shot. Unless you don't like the more rustic chowder textured version and prefer the 100% pureed.

P.s. I serve drizzled w/ white truffle oil and a floating crouton w/ a light smeer of roasted garlic.

[Jim Dixon]

I like to add celeriac (aka celery root) to this...here's my version:

Leek and Celeriac Soup

I like it a bit chunky so usually just mash the vegetables in the soup pot with the potato masher. Another good variation is to use buttermilk instead of cream (or creme fraiche, which is what I call out in the recipe).

Jim

[Shel_B]

I made some leek potato soup last night, and it was pretty good. Toots liked it, and that's paramount, but I think the results could have been improved.

First, my leek/potato balance might have been improved with a greater proportion of leeks, which I'll try next time. But the biggest concern I had was the texture. I blended about 75% of the soup, which was made with Yukon Gold potatoes and water, not stock, before putting it back into the pot, adjusted the consistency with water and a little kefir (which added a nice background note). Still, there was a slight, residual gumminess to the soup. How might I reduce or eliminate that slight gumminess? A different type of potato? Not use the blender (but then how would I make a smooth soup)? Thanks!

[chefmd]

There is a recipe in Modernist Cuisine at Home that uses diastatic malt powder for what they call (what else) modernist vichyssoise. They also recommend passing potatoes through a fine mash sieve if you don't have malt powder. I was recently intrigued by this sieve mentioned in chef steps.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004LZ4WO0/ref=as_li_qf_sp_asin_il_tlie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B004LZ4WO0&linkCode=as2&tag=delvkitc-20

[Jaymes]

After cooking the potatoes, I use a ricer, rather than an electric blender. This gives me the texture I usually am looking for. If I want it smoother, I strain it.

[Plantes Vertes]

I have heard from a chef that the finer the potatoes are cut before boiling, the more starch leaks out and the gummier the soup. So you want to cut the potatoes into fairly large pieces.

I understand that bit. What I don't get is why this makes a difference to the finished soup, since the potatoes are generally crushed or pulverised into tiny pieces in the end anyway. Maybe the starch leeches less after cooking.

That's what I heard, anyway.

I imagine it depends on the starch content of the potatoes as well, so variety is probably important.

[Shel_B]

I have heard from a chef that the finer the potatoes are cut before boiling, the more starch leaks out and the gummier the soup. So you want to cut the potatoes into fairly large pieces.

I understand that bit. What I don't get is why this makes a difference to the finished soup, since the potatoes are generally crushed or pulverised into tiny pieces in the end anyway. Maybe the starch leeches less after cooking.

Well, that coincides with something I was thinking about. I thought it might be interesting to see what happens if I soaked the diced potatoes in water for a while, perhaps while the leeks were cooking, and then rinse them before putting them into the pot to cook. Perhaps that would reduce the starch somewhat and lessen the slight gumminess I experienced.

[heidih]

I really think the blender is the source of gumminess. The vigorous beating releases starch to the extent of gumminess.

[furzzy]

Here's a Zucchini - Leek - Potato Soup that I serve cold as a zucchini vichyssoise. I sauté leeks &zucchini in butter, then add russet potatoes that have been boiled in large chunks, along with chicken stock & seasonings. Put it through a food mill with a medium screen (I like a little texture) - then add enough more chicken stock to correct the consistency. Garnish with either an extremely thin zucchini ribbon, or dill. Getting the right consistency has never been a problem this way. Using either a blender or food processor is the reason for gumminess.

[Ann_T]

Potato Leek Soup is a family favourite. I use chicken broth rather than water. I saute garlic in with the potatoes and leeks and I season with fresh thyme. Finished with heavy cream.

[cakewalk]

I really think the blender is the source of gumminess. The vigorous beating releases starch to the extent of gumminess.

I agree with this. An immersion blender will do the same thing. (Experience speaking here.) If you said your soup was too thick, then I'd suggest adding a liquid -- although you would have figured that out yourself. But gumminess is altogether different.

Someone mentioned adding diastatic malt powder to the soup. Can anyone explain why? What does it do to soup? It gives my bread a better rise, but what's the soup connection?

[Shel_B]

Potato Leek Soup is a family favourite. I use chicken broth rather than water. I saute garlic in with the potatoes and leeks and I season with fresh thyme. Finished with heavy cream.

That's a nice presentation ... are the croutons homemade?

[Shel_B]

Here's a Zucchini - Leek - Potato Soup that I serve cold as a zucchini vichyssoise. I sauté leeks &zucchini in butter, then add russet potatoes that have been boiled in large chunks, along with chicken stock & seasonings. Put it through a food mill with a medium screen (I like a little texture) - then add enough more chicken stock to correct the consistency. Garnish with either an extremely thin zucchini ribbon, or dill. Getting the right consistency has never been a problem this way. Using either a blender or food processor is the reason for gumminess.

Looks good! I've been playing around with zucchini-leek-potato soup using costata romanesco squash, one of my favorite summer squashes. We've plenty growing in our garden, so they are fresh and yummy, and seem to be a nice adjunct to the leeks.

[Ann_T]

Potato Leek Soup is a family favourite. I use chicken broth rather than water. I saute garlic in with the potatoes and leeks and I season with fresh thyme. Finished with heavy cream.

That's a nice presentation ... are the croutons homemade?

Thanks Shel, Yes, homemade croutons.

[Plantes Vertes]

Shel_B, today I tried making leek and potato soup by boiling the potatoes separately, draining and then adding to the rest of the soup. I could see there was a lot of starch in the water I drained off. Neither the taste nor the texture of the final soup were good. I think your idea of just soaking the potatoes before boiling might be better; apparently you do need some starch for this recipe.

[Shel_B]

Shel_B, today I tried making leek and potato soup by boiling the potatoes separately, draining and then adding to the rest of the soup. I could see there was a lot of starch in the water I drained off. Neither the taste nor the texture of the final soup were good. I think your idea of just soaking the potatoes before boiling might be better; apparently you do need some starch for this recipe.

This is a soup that I want to include in my regular repertoire, and have played around with it some more since my first post. I agree that some starch is needed, but your idea of boiling the potatoes separately might be a good idea. Perhaps you could add some of the starchy water back into the soup in degrees, thereby controlling the amount of starch. Right now, I'm beginning to play around with different potato varieties, although I do like the flavor of good, organic, Yukon Gold potatoes. Perhaps using a blend of red an YG potatoes might be nice.