Culinary Trends of 2007

[Dante]

So, I feel the need to ask what-all would you folks consider the top culinary trends of 2007?

Not that I consider following trends in and of themselves as all that important, nor do I consider myself a “trendy” sort, but I just found myself feeling somewhat curious as to where people see the art and industry going now.

Sincerely,

Dante

[danf]

Putting everything in a McDonald's wrapper.

[feedmec00kies]

Putting everything in a McDonald's wrapper.

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:laugh:

In all seriousness.. so because i couldn't think, i decided to do a little research on the interwebs. This was the first thing i found talking about 2007...

So the highlights they chose from some article in the Miami Herald were...

    *  Downsized desserts -- small sizes appeal to health-conscious eaters, but also mean that people will be tempted to take more "bites" than they would o a single dessert, especially if the pastry chef goes for big, creative flavors in spite of the dessert's small size.

    * Hamburgers and hot dogs go haute -- More chefs tackle these favorites, from Thomas Keller and Joe Bastianich (Mario Batali's partner) to Rachael Ray, who is rumored to be planning her own burger joint.

    * Mad science meets fine dining -- Molecular gastronomy meets the mainstream, as more chefs gain access to the ideas and tools needed to create some of the unusual presentations made popular by Ferran Adria. Like foam.

    * Salt backlash -- Contrasting with the trend for gourmet salts, food watchdogs looking for their next fight could move on to salt from trans fats in a matter of months.

I see highlight number 2 as really just an extension of the artisanal/gourmet food movement that's been growing for the last few decades, so I don't think I can call it a "trend'. The gourmet movement seems to be gaining momentum lately, especially with movements like the slow food movement becoming more visible to the general public. I'm still trying to figure out some things, but there are all sorts of reasons I see for the gourmet thing.. I'm not going to go into them right now because that's a whole other story, but I could if people wanted to hear it.

Also, I couldn't read that Miami Herald piece, but I feel like I've seen a growing popularity of bottled iced teas, especially lower sugar varieties from Honest Tea and Ito En. The drop in sugar in some of these might be a result of the (somewhat ineffective) "health food" thing that's always around, and I see other brands like Nestle and Liptons trying to make new lines which just seem to attempt to cash in on that "gourmet" trend these teas also fit in, in the same way that Budweiser Select tries to compete with more conventional (microbrewery-produced) craft beers.

[Dante]

Putting everything in a McDonald's wrapper.

Bob Blumer's probably done that...

:laugh:

In all seriousness.. so because i couldn't think, i decided to do a little research on the interwebs. This was the first thing i found talking about 2007...

splendid! Thank you. Just the sort of thing I wanted to see! I checked this out and the links from that page to a couple of related topics. Most informative. I'll admit that I didn't see much that I didn't already know about but that in and of itself serves as a validation.

(OK- on the A to Z linked off of that, seeing bacon listed did surprise me, as did gelato)

    * Hamburgers and hot dogs go haute -- More chefs tackle these favorites, from Thomas Keller and Joe Bastianich (Mario Batali's partner) to Rachael Ray, who is rumored to be planning her own burger joint.

<laughs> I've maintained for years that *anything* can become "gourmet" with the correct approach. Oddly enough, my most-requested dish is a tuna casserole.

I see highlight number 2 as really just an extension of the artisanal/gourmet food movement that's been growing for the last few decades, so I don't think I can call it a "trend'.

agreed. perhaps more an established movement that just gets more refined with time?

The gourmet movement seems to be gaining momentum lately, especially with movements like the slow food movement becoming more visible to the general public.

something that I find delightful. The Localvore and Slow Food movements have been picking up steam up here in New Hampshire and Vermont over the past couple of years.

I must confess that I bristled a bit when I found the one bit off of one of the links calling a movement away from fresh/seasonal ingredients a "return to flavour" or something along those lines. Perhaps the author doesn't have very good stuff around where s/he lives?

I'm still trying to figure out some things, but there are all sorts of reasons I see for the gourmet thing.. I'm not going to go into them right now because that's a whole other story, but I could if people wanted to hear it.

please do! I, for one, would be interested.

Also, I couldn't read that Miami Herald piece,

nor could I. Wouldn't even turn up on a Google search...most frustrating.

but I feel like I've seen a growing popularity of bottled iced teas, especially lower sugar varieties from Honest Tea and Ito En.

and Tazo and the like. VTea has produced a most-interesting reishi mushroom tea (with maple syrup and lemon). A "Mycobrew", as they like to call it.

The drop in sugar in some of these might be a result of the (somewhat ineffective) "health food" thing that's always around, and I see other brands like Nestle and Liptons trying to make new lines which just seem to attempt to cash in on that "gourmet" trend these teas also fit in, in the same way that Budweiser Select tries to compete with more conventional (microbrewery-produced) craft beers.

and yet the big companies like that never do seem to get it correct when they try. Sad, really.

Sincerely,

Dante

[mrsadm]

Packaged foods that promote health and make health benefit claims. Like more Dannon Activia's. Viola! You become healthy by buying certain products.

[Dante]

Packaged foods that promote health and make health benefit claims. Like more Dannon Activia's. Viola! You become healthy by buying certain products.

people, of course, tend to forget that such products tend to only contain trace elements of the health-promoting additives that they advertise.

(like they tend to forget that vitamins are added to products like fruit juices because by the time they reach the customer, the natural content has largely faded away or settled out).

Sincerely,

Dante

[docsconz]

I think the trend towards local and artisanal food production is picking up more and more steam. Farmers Markets have never been more popular or with a greater variety of produce. I am also (finally!) starting to see more artisanal milk producers along the lines of Ronnybrook in New York's Hudson valley. Within the past couple of weeks I have become aware of several producing in my area and am even seeing a greater availability of raw milk.

While creative high end cooking is still a favorite of mine, I think the techniques are stepping into the background more than they have been, while still in use. They just aren't being flouted quite as much as they were a couple of years ago. This is true even in Spain, the center of modern new technique driven cooking. Even elBulli and Can Roca seem to be more ingredient driven then they have been in the recent past. That is not to say that new techniques are not still of paramount importance or that ingredients hadn't previously been important. There does seem to be a subtle shift though along with a renewal of interest in traditional Spanish regional cuisine. A number of the more Vanguardist chefs are doing more with traditional cooking either in their main restaurants or satellite additions.

Fat and salt have made major comebacks with pork belly being a particularly popular ingredient nowadays in many restaurants. The premium salt industry seems to be thriving with a lot of competition and variety of products available.

[srhcb]

RE: * Salt backlash -- Contrasting with the trend for gourmet salts, food watchdogs looking for their next fight could move on to salt from trans fats in a matter of months.

The food watchdogs may be biting off more than they can lick if they try this!

[docsconz]

RE:  * Salt backlash -- Contrasting with the trend for gourmet salts, food watchdogs looking for their next fight could move on to salt from trans fats in a matter of months.

The food watchdogs may be biting off more than they can lick if they try this!

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They may, but one of the reasons salt has managed a bit of a resurgence is that current medical data does not support it being a major issue other than for a small subset of people who have specific health issues with fluid retention or certain types of high blood pressure. Are you aware of any particular anti-salt movement?

[Fat Guy]

Yes. The CSPI's 2007 report, “Wok Carefully: CSPI Takes a (Second) Look at Chinese Restaurant Food,” begins, “Popular Chinese restaurant meals can contain an entire day’s worth of sodium and some contain two days’ worth.” This is just one example of the CSPI's emphasis on the evils of sodium.

It's astounding that the CSPI, as well as many other groups that should know better, is still railing against salt as if there has been no progress in medical knowledge since the 1970s. Reality is just not an issue for these people. At this point, the health claims against salt have been so thoroughly debunked that it's hard to imagine any research-based organization being unaware that the salt-hypertension connection is a myth. As you say, Doc, given current scientific knowledge, the only thing that can really be said about salt and hypertension is that a percentage of the population may possibly be "salt sensitive." However, for healthy individuals with normally functioning kidneys there's no reason to be concerned about salt.

Putting the nation on a sodium-restricted diet makes as much sense as treating the entire population for a condition that only affects people with blue eyes. Worse, by steering people away from foods solely on the basis of salt content, the CSPI is discouraging the consumption of lower-fat items, like soups, which tend to be high in sodium.

[Peter Green]

I'd put money on the movement towards MolGast. The emphasis, as noted, isn't the flounting of the method, but of using the method to create new flavours.

I think we'll also see people moving to "comfort foods" as an item. More braisings, more long cooks.

Both of these go towards the integration of past trends, so it's not much of a limb that I'm going out on here. We've seen a lot of innovative work in the last few years, of people breaking things apart, and then re-approaching what can be done....but such trends are generally precursors to a certain retrenchment.

We'll see what comes up in the workshops.

[Peter Green]

And, yes, they'll be coming for our salt. It's all they've got left.

Cheers,

Peter

They'll have to pry my Himalayan pink salt from my cold dead fingers

[feedmec00kies]

Putting the nation on a sodium-restricted diet makes as much sense as treating the entire population for a condition that only affects people with blue eyes...

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Agreed. It also bothers me (am I being overly sensitive?) that the attack is on Chinese food. I think it was discussed in the thread about your work-in-progress, Fat Guy, that the focus on Chinese food might be because Chinese food is thought of as healthier. However, I think it bothers me because it makes me think about MSG, and how it feels like there's a racial bias/scapegoating.. No one complains that they can't eat Doritos because they're sensitive to MSG... ::grumblegrumble::

Anyway, back to food trends...

I'm still trying to figure out some things, but there are all sorts of reasons I see for the gourmet thing.. I'm not going to go into them right now because that's a whole other story, but I could if people wanted to hear it.

please do! I, for one, would be interested.

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Ok, so I've had to really think about the gourmet/artisanal movement because I wrote a paper on the commodification and "artisanization" of beer in the United States for a final for one of my classes last semester. The thing is, the story of beer is related to the story of many food products in the United States, so I see elements applying to the movement in general (I don’t know how it is in other countries; I’m only speaking from my experience and minor research).

Much of food has gone through a process of "democratization". This term, as used by Michael Schudson in Advertising, the Uneasy Persuasion, refers to the process by which these products become standardized, reliable, and easy to ingest (sometimes termed as “McDonaldized”).

It’s “democratized” because the largest number of individuals are able to enjoy it. Ideally, a product should require less expertise or skill on the part of the user; unskilled consumers are able to avoid embarrassment through standard products and shopping situations, making him or her equal to the “adept” consumer. Goods also are easier to use when they are milder, or more “convenient” (It should be noted that Schudson states that “convenience is an attribute that has as much to do with the social uses and social meaning of a product as with its engineering.”) Also, reducing consumer “risk” – the risk of appearning unknowledgeable or unskilled – is critical. This is the phenomenon that, for example, finds some Americans eating at fast food restaurants when abroad; this isn’t necessarily an unwillingness to engage in a foreign culture, but a lack of skill (in this case, an understanding of that place’s culinary traditions, mental/”physical” ability to handle new foods, and possibly a developed palate) and a fear of looking foolish.

However, it is important to note that while such traits make products “democratized” in terms of its consumers, they often lose the traits that differentiate themselves from each other, leading to an “un-democratized” market. This is where the gourmet movement comes in. Although there are certain factors that are specific to beer, such as homebrewing, quite a few parallels can be drawn to other “gourmet” foods. I think the increased movement of people, such as military service personnel, business travelers, etc, has an effect because people are introduced to foods and products – especially the same kinds of foods, but produced at different levels (macro vs. micro) that were to them in the United States. These people come back and start to demand these products at home. It’s relatable to the kind of response of dissatisfaction towards standardized, commodified products that have become familiar.

In a weblog post from November 2006, anthropologist-cum-economist Grant McCracken outlines the reasons he sees for the “artisanal movement.” Among his suggestions are a preference for things that are “human scale” or “hand made,” “unbranded,” “personalized” and “authentic,” as well as “a preference for the new connosieurship.”

There is a particular understanding of “authenticity” (yes, a loaded term) and people can feel that these “gourmet”/”artisanal” products is “human scale” or “personalized”. To a certain extent, the producers are themselves able to be the ones who build relationships with retailers, bartenders, and consumers (I bet Marx would have liked that!), though it really depends on the product. These goods fit a different need that has developed for consumers, from something quick and easy to ingest – the “democratized” goods - to something that has its own importance, outside of its place as an object and a commodity. You can more easily look at that hunk of cheese and think about the scale that it is produced at easier than you can with that cellophane-wrapped package of Kraft brand American “Cheese”. And, for the cynical among us, even if a person doesn’t actually care about Marxian alienation, they can always build up their image by making a big deal about their fancy cheese (as I’m sure many people do). Either way, it’s still homo faber for those in a service economy; it’s easier to conflate meaning in gourmet goods than commodities.

McCracken discusses the “preference for the new connosieurship” in that entry, and I think it’s important to this discussion. He states that “it is a roomy connosieurship. Unlike French wine, there are no rules and regs[sic] that constrain how something is served, how long it must breath[sic], or the food with which it may be eaten. There are no real demands for reverence. Artisanal foods can be served and eaten in any way. No special forks required.” Although this may be true for many of these foods, there can be and are constraints on how it is served (like craft beer); the “roominess” of that “connoisseurship” is created alternatively. The kind of information which would be necessary for connoisseurship – what kind of glassware to use; proper drinking temperature; what kind of attributes to look for in the taste, appearance, body and aroma; and the issue of food pairings, if we’re looking at craft beer – has been made more readily available through the internet, especially through websites such as RateBeer.com and BeerAdvocate.com, in the past decade. In a way, these resources lower the threshold for “connoisseurship,” effectively democratizing beer in an alternative way; instead of making beer “milder” to appeal to the masses, connoisseurship has been made “milder” to help bridge the gap by helping to alleviate any lack of skill or knowledge. Everyone wins!

Of course, it should be noted, I think it really depends on the area you're living in and the people around you. Some people might just think you're crazy or stuck up or European!

Ok, I hope that informative and not too confusing. Feedback/discussion is welcome, of course; I don’t believe I’m all-knowledgeable on the subject, and conversation helps the brain-juices start flowing.

[Naftal]

Hello-I was wondering if you have seen Daniel Rogov's take on Molecular Gastronomy ? The article is in the Middle East forum in a thread on Molecular Gastronomy in Israel,I was unable to make a link to that article(sorry ).

Edited August 12, 2007 by Naftal (log)

[feedmec00kies]

Hello-I was wondering if you have seen Daniel Rogov's take  on Molecular Gastronomy ? The article is in the Middle East forum in a thread on Molecular Gastronomy in Israel,I was unable to make a link to that article(sorry  ).

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this looks like it: http://forums.egullet.org/index.php?showtopic=104886&hl=

[Naftal]

Hello-I was wondering if you have seen Daniel Rogov's take  on Molecular Gastronomy ? The article is in the Middle East forum in a thread on Molecular Gastronomy in Israel,I was unable to make a link to that article(sorry  ).

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this looks like it: http://forums.egullet.org/index.php?showtopic=104886&hl=

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You are correct Thanks so much!

[eskay]

Sorry if this is a little too off topic, but I don't think the "campaign against salt" is entirely without merit. Specifically, I disagree with Fat Guy's statement that there's been no progress in research since the 70s. I'm not a doctor or a dietician though, so I'm not really qualified to comment. But it's not like that stopped anyone, right?

A recent-ish (1999-2000) study of ~4800 adult americans resulted in 30% being classified as having high blood pressure, and another 30% have prehypertension. Other studies have established pretty firmly (from what I've read) that reduction in sodium intake results in a lowering of blood pressure, especially in people with high blood pressure. That said, I don't think the difference is enough to start regulating anything, but I think that given the prevalance of high blood pressure and the consequences of it (ie increased risk of cardiovascular disease), there's a lot to be gained from increased education on the subject.

Of course, I'm taking it as a given that some people will take this to extremes and generally keep making bad decisions about what they eat, but hey what can you do.

Disclaimer: I put salt on most things I cook and am not about to stop any time soon.

[Dante]

No one complains that they can't eat Doritos because they're sensitive to MSG... ::grumblegrumble::

Yeah- I do find that rather annoying.

Jeffrey Steingarten’s “It Must Have Been Something I Ate” has a nice chapter that largely debunks the MSG sensitivity myths. Rather like lactose-intolerance (the “in” food-related malady some years ago), many more people claim it than actually have it. The studies hardly ever get presented in full context because the scary stuff sells better.

Ok, so I've had to really think about the gourmet/artisanal movement because I wrote a paper on the commodification and "artisanization" of beer in the United States for a final for one of my classes last semester.

What a delightful topic!

(I dont know how it is in other countries; Im only speaking from my experience and minor research).

Always good to keep within your range of actual knowledge.

Much of food has gone through a process of "democratization". This term, as used by Michael Schudson in Advertising, the Uneasy Persuasion, refers to the process by which these products become standardized, reliable, and easy to ingest (sometimes termed as McDonaldized).

In essence, spreading to the Masses rather than staying within the purview of the few. Demos = “people”.

Ideally, a product should require less expertise or skill on the part of the user

<snip further details for space>

Indeed so. Making things less intimidating lies at the heart of most advertising. A less kind person would say that you have to dumb-down, or water-down things in order to make them have broader appeal. Hence, in food, for example, watered-down versions of ethnic cuisine have more mass-appeal than more authentic variations.

Not necessarily a criticism, there are some aspects of certain ethnic cuisines (in particular, certain {but not all} forms of offal) that I find shuddersome by my own wimpy American standards.

However, it is important to note that while such traits make products democratized in terms of its consumers, they often lose the traits that differentiate themselves from each other, leading to an un-democratized market. This is where the gourmet movement comes in.

Exactly. Almost paradoxically, that market then tends to develop more appeal due to its perceived exclusivity, so it gets progressively democratized, leading to further developments and new frontiers that are later assimilated themselves.

(I could toss in some blither extrapolated from the ideas of Guy DeBord re: the Spectacle’s need to assimilate new material in order to perpetuate itself and stave off stagnation, but that would wander a bit too far off topic, methinks)

I think the increased movement of people, such as military service personnel, business travelers, etc, has an effect because people are introduced to foods and products especially the same kinds of foods, but produced at different levels (macro vs. micro) that were to them in the United States.

Indeed. The military was one of the primary sources of this phenomenon in the past, but easier, more convenient (ie:”democratized”) transit has sped things up and broadened them considerably. The media also plays a role in this as well.

These people come back and start to demand these products at home. Its relatable to the kind of response of dissatisfaction towards standardized, commodified products that have become familiar.

(see above re:”Spectacle” blither)

In a weblog post from November 2006, anthropologist-cum-economist

An interesting combination, two fields more related than one may initially think.

Grant McCracken outlines the reasons he sees for the artisanal movement. Among his suggestions are a preference for things that are human scale or hand made, unbranded, personalized and authentic, as well as a preference for the new connosieurship.

Itself a natural reaction brought about by the perceived stagnation caused by commoditization- the overly-familiar.

We get bored, and through that, standards get raised a bit.

Of course, there’s also the self-perceived prestige gained by partaking of such exclusive products.

Either way, its still homo faber

Wow…there’s a term you normally don’t see used in everyday conversation…

for those in a service economy; its easier to conflate meaning in gourmet goods than commodities.

As such have more of a mystique around them.

To a certain extent, the producers are themselves able to be the ones who build relationships with retailers, bartenders, and consumers

Yeah, I’ve also seen a shift to more one-on-one, consumer/producer relationships on both private consumer {ie- shopper} and professional consumer {ie- restaurant} levels - more desire to know where one’s food comes from and to interact with its producer. I have to say, though, that my own perceptions may be skewed due to a shift from a major metropolitan area (Washington DC Metro Area) to a more comparatively-rural area (New Hampshire), so my conclusions there aren’t to be trusted because my data are skewed.

He states that it is a roomy connosieurship. Unlike French wine, there are no rules and regs[sic] that constrain how something is served, how long it must breath[sic], or the food with which it may be eaten.

Rules and regs that really owe more to tradition than reality (except maybe for that asparagus thing…), and which have fallen by the wayside in some circles.

But yes, I know what you mean. It owes more to intimidation-factor due to perception of rules.

In a way, these resources lower the threshold for connoisseurship, effectively democratizing beer in an alternative way; instead of making beer milder to appeal to the masses, connoisseurship has been made milder to help bridge the gap by helping to alleviate any lack of skill or knowledge. Everyone wins!

Which, IMHO, is the way to go. One can do this progressively, in stages, with one’s audience, gradually bringing them deeper and deeper in to connoisseurship and thereby raising the standards of the industry itself in stages as well (which helps the industry out not only in the raising of standards of product but also, let’s not deny it, in terms of profits gained).

Some people might just think you're crazy or stuck up or European!

I remember talking to my mother on the phone a year or two ago and her saying “Do you realize that we’re food snobs?” to which I replied “Well, yes, did it take you this long to figure it out?”

Ok, I hope that informative and not too confusing.

Not in the least. All makes perfect sense to me…

Sincerely,

Dante

[Peter Green]

          Some people might just think you're crazy or stuck up or European! 

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Oh, man, that is my favourite quote of the week!