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eGfoodblog: Kent Wang


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when are we going to see some of that yummy chinese food you are so famous for?

I'll try to squeeze in some time to cook, or maybe my parents will have something when I go home on Thursday.

Here are photos from Veritas Wine Bisto (website) in College Station on Monday night.

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Gulf coast lump crab, zesty lump crab meat with herbs and corn with cubed avocado and citrus.

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Prime Black Angus blue cheese encrusted tenderloin, prime tenderloin with grilled vegetables and a red wine-balsamic reduction.

The food was OK, though a few items on the menu are a bit too Asian fusion. Cocktails and wine, though, are what we came for.

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Andy, aka thirtyoneknots, shaking up a Corpse Reviver #2. Thanks to Andy, Veritas has the best cocktail program in College Station, and even better than anything we have in Austin. As a surprise gift, I brought him a pound of Billington's dark molasses sugar from Austin, which I've raved about previously (in cocktails, general use).

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A photo of myself in my side-yard, which is next to a cemetery. That's what I wore to the photo shoot on Monday, modeling my own pocket square and cuff links.

Also in my neighborhood, is Ben's Longbranch BBQ. Although I haven't gone there for barbecue yet, I love their Soul Food Wednesdays. If you're not familiar, soul food is the home-style cuisine developed by blacks in the South. I consider it a subset of Southern cuisine, as there is a good amount of overlap between the two genres. What tends to seperate soul food from Southern cuisine is the use of cheap or "exotic" cuts of meat such as pork intestine ("chitlins"), pigs feet and pork rinds.

Coincidentally, these are the same foods that the Chinese love. When my family first moved to America, we were surprised with how white Americans eat such a narrow range of foods while learning how much our own cuisine had in common with soul food. My favorite fruit is even the watermelon!

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Oxtails, collard greens, black-eyed peas with bits of bacon, cornbread. The oxtails were cooked plainly with just some salt and pepper but were delicious. The oxtails rendered a great deal of gelatin, making the broth thick and sticky.

Next up: Uchi.

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Kent:

If you plan to hit Del Rio you must try to get into the 116. No sign, No adv. You just have to know.

Jmahl

The Philip Mahl Community teaching kitchen is now open. Check it out. "Philip Mahl Memorial Kitchen" on Facebook. Website coming soon.

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Very cool to see you outside the Chinese cuisine forum, Kent!

I used to cook oxtails and collard greens for acouple of southern basketball players attending our university. Not quite like their mama's but close enough to fill the void. :wink:

Dejah

www.hillmanweb.com

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Kent, many thanks for the kind words about Veritas and the cocktail program. We are rather proud of it, even though it sort of gets overshadowed by the wine list, which is amazing. I've been busy getting ready to move out of my apartment, so I haven't gotten a chance to play with the sugar yet, but I promise to report back by the weekend. It's true that Brazos County hasn't had a significant restaraunt scene until fairly recently ("significant" being relative here) but it is getting better, and I would put Veritas at the top of that heirarchy, quality-wise. The demographics of the community have changed appreciably since I moved here 5 years ago, and it's important to note that a fine-dining concept like this would not have succeeded then. College Station is definitely better known for beer joints and dance halls, but we like being able to provide something different. In just seven months since we've opened the bar program has become the best in town (in my very modest opinion :wink: ) and the wine list and food menu have been streamlined and are constantly improving. Such a privelidge to host fellow eGullet members, and I would love to again.

Of course the one picture of me on eGullet has me with my eyes closed :raz:

-Andy

Andy Arrington

Journeyman Drinksmith

Twitter--@LoneStarBarman

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Kent - I'm loving this blog. I, too, hold a soft spot in my heart for Galveston. It was the first place I realized you could get all-you-can-eat seafood that actually tastes good in places that are next to the ocean! Duh! I have family in Waco and Beaumont and we have visited a couple of times. Very much looking forward to more of this blog!

"Life is a combination of magic and pasta." - Frederico Fellini

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A photo of myself in my side-yard, which is next to a cemetery. That's what I wore to the photo shoot on Monday, modeling my own pocket square and cuff links.

You. Look. Sharp! I'd have you do custom work for me if I could afford it. :biggrin: (Edited to add: Unfortunately, the cufflinks were just cropped out of this picture.)

Also in my neighborhood, is Ben's Longbranch BBQ. Although I haven't gone there for barbecue yet, I love their Soul Food Wednesdays. If you're not familiar, soul food is the home-style cuisine developed by blacks in the South. I consider it a subset of Southern cuisine, as there is a good amount of overlap between the two genres. What tends to seperate soul food from Southern cuisine is the use of cheap or "exotic" cuts of meat such as pork intestine ("chitlins"), pigs feet and pork rinds.

Coincidentally, these are the same foods that the Chinese love. When my family first moved to America, we were surprised with how white Americans eat such a narrow range of foods while learning how much our own cuisine had in common with soul food. My favorite fruit is even the watermelon!

gallery_28661_4880_26525.jpg

Oxtails, collard greens, black-eyed peas with bits of bacon, cornbread. The oxtails were cooked plainly with just some salt and pepper but were delicious. The oxtails rendered a great deal of gelatin, making the broth thick and sticky.

Soul food I know. I can't stand chitlins, but the rest of it is wonderful. Given what most Chinese restaurants serve non-Chinese, I find this revelation quite a surprise, and a pleasant one.

Might dishes like this be what I would get if I ordered from the menu that's only printed in Chinese at some Chinese restaurants?

Edited much later to add: On the way back from the gym, it struck me that one other thing that might tie these two cuisines together is that they are "common" fare rather than haute cuisine. The foods we call "soul food" are made from the stuff the master didn't want or wouldn't touch. Its kissing cousin, "Southern cooking," is largely the cooking of the Southern non-gentry, though the high/low boundary in Southern cookery is not as sharp as that separating what the master ate from what the slaves ate.

I don't recall seeing this sort of cooking at the Chinese New Year banquets the Chinese Cultural Center in Philly's Chinatown throws annually. Is there a similar divide between what everyday Chinese ate and what was served, say, in the Forbidden City, or what the provincial mandarins ate?

Edited by MarketStEl (log)

Sandy Smith, Exile on Oxford Circle, Philadelphia

"95% of success in life is showing up." --Woody Allen

My foodblogs: 1 | 2 | 3

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Kent - I'm loving this blog. I, too, hold a soft spot in my heart for Galveston. It was the first place I realized you could get all-you-can-eat seafood that actually tastes good in places that are next to the ocean! Duh!

Wha... where is this restaurant?!

Soul food I know.  I can't stand chitlins, but the rest of it is wonderful.  Given what most Chinese restaurants serve non-Chinese, I find this revelation quite a surprise, and a pleasant one.

Might dishes like this be what I would get if I ordered from the menu that's only printed in Chinese at some Chinese restaurants?

Absolutely. The English menus often leave out the more exotic meats. Every single good traditional restaurant I've been to in the US serves pork intestine, pork tongue and chicken feet. Other common, though less ubiquitous items are duck tongue, pork stomach and pig ear. If you have never seen these items at a traditional place -- of which there are plenty in Philadelphia -- it's definitely because they're not on the English menu. I bet if you ask, they will make it for you.

Edited much later to add: On the way back from the gym, it struck me that one other thing that might tie these two cuisines together is that they are "common" fare rather than haute cuisine.  The foods we call "soul food" are made from the stuff the master didn't want or wouldn't touch.  Its kissing cousin, "Southern cooking," is largely the cooking of the Southern non-gentry, though the high/low boundary in Southern cookery is not as sharp as that separating what the master ate from what the slaves ate.

I don't recall seeing this sort of cooking at the Chinese New Year banquets the Chinese Cultural Center in Philly's Chinatown throws annually.  Is there a similar divide between what everyday Chinese ate and what was served, say, in the Forbidden City, or what the provincial mandarins ate?

You're right about the divide that caused the development of soul food but in Chinese cuisine, there is no such divide as even mandarins ate pork intestines, etc. There really is no concept of a dichotomy between superiour and inferiour cuts of meat: all are equally loved.

I think what survives today of white Southern cuisine must have been quite different than what it was like in the antebellum years. I suspect many poor whites ate the same "exotic" cuts and offal as soul food. It's only in the last century that white Southerners became more prosperous while blacks in the South remained poor and continued to eat cheap cuts. But perhaps even more important than economics, was that black culture in the South remained distinct and retained the same foods while Southern white culture merged with mainstream white American culture and narrowed their tastes.

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Wednesday night. Dinner at Uchi, one of the best restaurants in town. The chef, Tyson Cole, was deemed one of the best new chefs of 2005 by Food & Wine Magazine. The cuisine is best described as contemporary Japanese, a genre also occupied by Nobu.

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The outdoor garden.

We had the omakase, which is designed for two diners.

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Amuse bouche: ginger sorbet, mint, peach slices.

Sorbet had intense ginger spice. Peach sashimi? I have to try that at home some time.

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Carpaccio daily selection (can't remember what it was) from the Tsukiji fish market, Japan with tangerine oil and san bai zu.

[No photo]

Hamachi cure. Sugar-cured applewood-smoked yellowtail, white soy, golden raisins, garlic brittle, marcona almonds.

This might have been my favorite course. I don't think smoking is employed at all in traditional Japanese cuisine, so it was great to see how well this technique adapted to sushi.

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Taikyo yaki. Grilled Mediterranean drumfish, puree of garlic, negi oil, tomatillo carpaccio, micro coriander.

[No photo]

Mirugai (live geoduck clam) sashimi, chu toro sashimi.

I've never had geoduck raw before. Crisp texture, briny taste, very unique.

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Toro hot rock. Line-caught “sear it yourself” bluefin toro.

Terrific cut of toro, great marbling throughout. I think the hot rock is a bit of gimmick, ineffective and not hot enough to actually sear.

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Hotate tomorokoshi. Seared Maine diver scallops, golden North Texas chanterelles, sweet white corn miso, hydroponic totsoi.

The flavor of the chanterelles married well with the subtle flavor of the scallops.

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Sushi chefs on the line.

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Bacon steakie. Cider-braised kurobuta pork belly with candied apple.

This is the dish most oftenly mentioned on eGullet and Chowhound. I had high expectations of a very novel creation, but it turned out to taste just like Shanghai-style braised pork belly! Of course, Shanghai does not have the monopoly on sweet, braised pork belly but the bold flavors made this stand out in my mind to be the least Japanese-style dish on the menu, and more like a Chinese one. Nevertheless, it is delicious and I would certainly recommend it.

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Akaushi tataki. Togarashi-seared akaushi ribeye, yuzu kosho, California green plums, shaved white endive, sesame.

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Shun yaki. Whole grilled wild mediterranean rouget, citrus confit, pickled myoga, dill crowns.

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Foie hachimitsu. Seared Hudson Valley foie gras, vanilla-stuffed kumquats, acacia honey, sauternes gelee.

Strange to have the foie gras at the end of the meal. Perhaps all the sweet elements were intended to segue this course into dessert. Sauternes gelee was superb, fairly mild and not nearly as sweet as sauternes usually is.

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Chevre ice cream, yellow watermelon, sugar kumo.

I don't think watermelon should ever be served unless it has been cut moments before service. Perhaps I'm overly sensitive about this but I can tell a fresh slice from one that is ten-minutes old and small slices like this will turn even more quickly.

Overall, the meal was superb and the menu was very innovative, not at all fusion-y, expertly prepared with superlative ingredients. I haven't had the omakase at Nobu (or some of those other places I've seen pictures of in New York) but I bet you didn't think Texas would be a place where one would find good contemporary Japanese and sushi.

Service was also flawless, which is remarkable in such a busy establishment. We went on Wednesday night and it was packed by seven o'clock.

I'll be in Houston and Galveston Thursday-Friday so we'll see some of my mother's home cooking, some Chinese restaurants in Houston and a bit of Galveston seafood.

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Kent-

I can't belive that you were able to go to College Station for a fine meal. Yay Veritas! When i was a grad student at A&M in the late '80's, I heard tell that it was hard to find places to take seminar speakers, but given my income level (chemistry grad student notwithstanding) that sort of concern really wasn't on my plate.

While living in Texas from 1984-89 I did eat a lot of good milkshakes (go Ag Schools), Texas barbecue, and cheeseburgers (yay Cow Hop). I also learned what good (I think) Chinese was like (Houston),as well asl kolaches, sausage and real Mexican food (friend in El Paso, with mom from Mexico). What an amazing state.

Looking forward to your blog!

-Anne

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Your avatar reminded me that I'm the first eGfoodblogger in a while without a pet. I do love animals, cats especially, but I don't feel right about getting a kitten when I plan to move to China in three years.

Oh, yeah, about that: After visiting China last spring, I made up my mind to move to Shanghai by 2010 (in time for Expo 2010). I can operate both my web development and fashion businesses from there at much lower cost than in the US. All my relatives live there and it would just be exciting to live in such a booming city. And of course -- the food!

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I drove Wednesday night to my parent's house in Houston (actually Clear Lake, southeast of Houston).

Thursday, I had lunch in Houston with Robin Goldstein, publisher of the Fearless Critic, an Austin restaurant guide. My parents had already planned for us to go to Hong Kong Food Street, a traditional Chinese restaurant, for dinner on Friday but Robin and I decided to try it out for lunch, too. Good Chinese restaurants have such expansive menus that one could go every day for a week without running out of options.

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Pig ear, pork tongue, pork stomach braised in soy sauce and spices. I think I've seen this called "tiu chiu" style at other restaurants -- can anyone correct me on this? This was one of the better executed versions as the sauce was heavy on aromatics like star anise and Szechuan peppercorn.

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Clams steamed in rice wine. One can find similar versions in Spanish cuisine that use sherry instead of rice wine, French using white whine and Italian using red wine. Rice wine is the least acidic of these and greatly enhances the richness of the broth.

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Sea bass steamed with fermented black bean paste. Black beans added a rich, smokey flavor to the fish. Usually the beans are served whole but the paste form allows you to more evenly coat the fish. The gentle cooking action of steam preserved the gelatin-rich components of the sea bass.

Austin has some fine traditional Chinese restaurants but this meal alone showed just how lacking the Austin Chinese restaurant scene is to Houston -- no wonder considering how many more Chinese and other Asians there are in Houston.

Despite this, there is a dearth of accurate information on traditional Chinese restaurants in Houston compared to the reviews available in Austin. There are an incredible number of restaurants in the sprawling Chinatown but it's hard to find reviews conducted by those that truly appreciate traditional Chinese cuisine. A review of one restaurant's sweet and sour pork versus another is useless to me. Is Hong Kong Food Street the best in Houston? Probably not -- as there is just such much unexplored terriotory -- but it's the best that I've had.

Stepping back a bit from the Austin-Houston comparison, it is still quite remarkable that Texas has as good Chinese as it does. Most people don't realize how many Asians there are in Texas. The best Chinese that I've had in San Francisco, Vancouver and New York is only a notch above what can be had here.

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Thursday dinner was cooked by my mother.

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Clockwise from top:

Soup with eel chunks and bits of shitake and Yunnan ham.

Pork stomach with slighly spicy Szechuan-style sauce (my father can only tolerate a small amount of spice).

Chilled cucumber in soy sauce and rice vinegar. The cucumber is fresh from their backyard garden.

Every Chinese family I know that has a house has a vegetable garden, and my parents have one of the more abundant ones. They tell me they hardly ever buy vegetables anymore and just eat what they grow.

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Dates.

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Oranges.

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My father pointing at a cucumber.

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Cucumbers.

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Chinese eggplant.

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Winter melon.

Friday, I'll go down to Galveston during the day for some seafood and then go back to Hong Kong Food Street for dinner with my parents.

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A photo of myself in my side-yard, which is next to a cemetery. That's what I wore to the photo shoot on Monday, modeling my own pocket square and cuff links.

Also in my neighborhood, is Ben's Longbranch BBQ. Although I haven't gone there for barbecue yet, I love their Soul Food Wednesdays. If you're not familiar, soul food is the home-style cuisine developed by blacks in the South. I consider it a subset of Southern cuisine, as there is a good amount of overlap between the two genres. What tends to seperate soul food from Southern cuisine is the use of cheap or "exotic" cuts of meat such as pork intestine ("chitlins"), pigs feet and pork rinds.

Coincidentally, these are the same foods that the Chinese love. When my family first moved to America, we were surprised with how white Americans eat such a narrow range of foods while learning how much our own cuisine had in common with soul food. My favorite fruit is even the watermelon!

gallery_28661_4880_26525.jpg

Oxtails, collard greens, black-eyed peas with bits of bacon, cornbread. The oxtails were cooked plainly with just some salt and pepper but were delicious. The oxtails rendered a great deal of gelatin, making the broth thick and sticky.

Next up: Uchi.

wow, my mother and I find korean food and soul food to be very similar as well. We also love to eat collard, mustard, kale, turnip, etc greens with our korean food.

watermelon is one of my favorite fruits too. I like to cut a large one in half, and sit and eat it with a spoon all by myself. Is watermelon expensive in china? I know that it costs a ton in korea, and I remember my family paying around $30 for one for my grandparents once.

BEARS, BEETS, BATTLESTAR GALACTICA
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watermelon is one of my favorite fruits too.  I like to cut a large one in half, and sit and eat it with a spoon all by myself.  Is watermelon expensive in china?  I know that it costs a ton in korea, and I remember my family paying around $30 for one for my grandparents once.

I prefer slicing instead of spooning. When they're in season in the summer I'll usually eat about two medium-sized watermelons a week. In lieu of drinking water I'll just slice up some watermelon.

Watermelon is quite cheap in China as I believe we have a lot of land suitable for its cultivation: dry, sandy soil and hot weather. Exactly what we have in parts of Texas, actually. Luling in south-central Texas is a major producer and hosts an annual festival, the Luling Watermelon Thump, which I believe is one of the biggest such festivals in the world. Several watermelon records such watermelon size, seed spitting and watermelon eating have been set there.

I remember as a child in China going with my family to market to buy watermelons. We would always keep three to seven watermelons on hand -- I think we put them underneath a bed -- though these were fairly small, about the size of a basketball.

Edited by Kent Wang (log)
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Kent:

If you plan to hit Del Rio you must try to get into the 116.  No sign, No adv. You just have to know. 

Jmahl

I go to Del Rio fairly often and, in fact, am even considering moving there. If there is no sign nor advertising, how does one find the 116?

And, Kent, this blog is so fascinating. I've spent a lot of time in Texas, as my family is originally from there, with aunts, uncles, cousins, grandparents living all over the state. I spent many summers in Dallas with my grandmother when I was growing up, and I currently have kids living in Houston. I myself have lived in Galveston, Waco, San Angelo, Austin, the El Paso area, and up in the panhandle.

So I thought I knew the state pretty well.

But your multi-cultural view is eye-opening.

Thanks, and I am eagerly awaiting more.

Edited by Jaymes (log)

I don't understand why rappers have to hunch over while they stomp around the stage hollering.  It hurts my back to watch them. On the other hand, I've been thinking that perhaps I should start a rap group here at the Old Folks' Home.  Most of us already walk like that.

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Lunch in Galveston at Charles' house. Galveston Island is 30 miles southeast of Houston. It is an old seaport and one of the oldest cities in Texas. Had it not been devastated by the 1900 Storm, Galveston would probably be the largest city in the South today and Houston would have never developed to be a major city. Well, this is the typical wistful speculation every Galvestonian will tell you if given the opportunity.

Charles' family lives in an old historical home.

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Dining room.

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Some take-out from Benno's, a mediocre cajun restaurant. Fried catfish, fried shrimp, fried oysters, crab balls, hush puppies.

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An impromptu salad.

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After lunch, I went down to the pier where one can buy fish directly from the boats. Unfortunately, I got there a little late and all the boats had closed shop.

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Birds often gather in this area to feed on the scraps tossed out by the fishermen.

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Cormorants and pelicans.

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Heron -- or maybe a crane? I'm no ornithologist.

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Pelicans, my favorite bird.

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Seagull running away with a shrimp.

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Kent, your commentary is fascinating and the images stellar! I'm nominating you to do another eG foodblog from Shanghai when you get settled there.

I have seen quite a bit of rural Texas but nothing south of Dallas, so now I'm hankering to get back and see the Gulf coast first hand. What kind of seafood came off those boats?

Peter Gamble aka "Peter the eater"

I just made a cornish game hen with chestnut stuffing. . .

Would you believe a pigeon stuffed with spam? . . .

Would you believe a rat filled with cough drops?

Moe Sizlack

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I like the pelican's philosophy:

"A wonderful bird is the pelican,

his bill can hold more than his belly can."

I have seen quite a bit of rural Texas but nothing south of Dallas, so now I'm hankering to get back and see the Gulf coast first hand. What kind of seafood came off those boats?

The Gulf Coast produces mostly shrimp, crabs, red snapper and tilapia. We also produce oysters (mighty big ones) and catfish, though those are farmed.

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Friday dinner at Hong Kong Food Street to celebrate my father's birthday.

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The restaurant is located in the Houston Chinatown in the Bellaire area. Unlike Chinatowns in older cities like New York, Houston's is sprawled across a number of strip malls like this.

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Note all the Japanese and German cars, hardly an American vehicle in sight.

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Inside Hong Kong Food Street. Nearly all the customers are Chinese. The few whites here are accompanied by Chinese. Maybe they are co-workers or friends.

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We ordered a winter melon soup, which is a rich soup cooked inside a winter melon. It is considered one of the most famous dishes of Cantonese cuisine. This had to be ordered a few days in advance.

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The soup starts with a rich base of chicken stock and has bits of shrimp, dried scallops, Yunnan ham, shitake and of course bits of winter melon.

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We also ordered what was described on the menu as a "clam soup flambe".

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It turns out that this is a Cantonese medicinal soup, filled with numerous Chinese medicine ingredients which were rather bitter and unpalatable. The idea is that one would drink the soup for health reasons, and not just for flavor.

After dinner, we went to a Chinese supermarket.

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My mother likes Welcome to the other supermarkets like Hong Kong as they have higher turnover and their foods are fresher.

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I bought a little something-something that I hope to cook with on Sunday when I get back to Austin.

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Friday dinner at Hong Kong Food Street to celebrate my father's birthday.

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Kent, is the Old Place Cafe back there at the end of this mall? That's kind of what it looks like, and that's one of my favorite Chinese cafes in Houston. Have you tried it?

I don't understand why rappers have to hunch over while they stomp around the stage hollering.  It hurts my back to watch them. On the other hand, I've been thinking that perhaps I should start a rap group here at the Old Folks' Home.  Most of us already walk like that.

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