Dry Stone, Wet Stone, Oil Stone

[Porthos]

A Patric's thread on the EdgePro sharpening system brought up a separate question in my mind. Chad Ward's article here at eG was the impetus that I needed to finally begin to learn to sharpen my own knives. While no expert I am happily moving along. I have also chosen to do this sharpening free hand, but I did make a graph for reference to show the angle I need to hold the blade at.

Chad recommends not using oil or water but rather just using the stone dry. This is what I have been doing and I am happy with the results so far.

Here is the question: Do you use water or oil, or do you prefer a dry stone also?

[Octaveman]

Uh, using a stone dry? I don't know if that's appropriate. By using a dry stone I'm pretty sure all is being done is loading the stone up and rendering it useless over time.

Waterstones are another matter entirely. Both Japanese and synthetic waterstones require water in order to cut effectively. Japanese waterstones can be damaged if used dry and must be soaked thoroughly before use. Waterstones wear very quickly, revealing new layers of cutting abrasive as the swarf builds up and is washed away. That’s why they are so effective. There is always a new layer of sharp abrasive cutting away at the metal of your edge. By the way, “swarf” is one of those cool terms you get to toss around when you discuss sharpening. Swarf is the slurry of metal filings and stone grit that builds up as you sharpen. Throw that into your next cocktail party conversation and just watch the expressions of awe appear as people realize that you are a sharpening God.

I have Japanese wetstones and water is essential as stated above. I understand waterstones are higher quality than oil stones and can get into higher grits. Almost all Japanese stones need to be soaked first for about 15-20 minutes before using. Shapton Pro stones are extremely good stones and they do not need soaking. Just spritz water on them and away you go.

What stones do you have?

[Porthos]

What stones do you have?

←

Soft Arkansas stones.

By the way, I use a rag as I go to wipe away stone particles that have come loose in the sharpening process.

[flacoman]

I use Japanese waterstones (1200&6000grit) , kept in a tupperware soaking with a sheet of 400 grit wet-or dry paper to raise a fresh surface every other session.

my2c

Jorge

[MarkIsCooking]

I use a Japanese stone also and the instructions say to soak the stone in water until the small bubbles stop appearing (takes up to 1/2 hour). It seems like the wetness helps lubricate the blade across the stone.

In school, they demo'd for us on stones that were oiled, which I didn't like as much just due to the whole oil thing.

What do others say???

-Mark-

[Octaveman]

Mark, you are correct that the water is used to lubricate the stone as you work the knife. Stones need soaking because if you just put water on top of an unsoaked stone, the water would soak in and dissapear leaving your stone dry. Soaking the stone keep's it hydrated so any water that is added as you work your blades doesn't get slurped (an official term) up by your stone. Some people keep them wet which is fine and makes things fast and easy when you're ready to sharpen. Stones like Shapton's do not require pre-soaking; just keeping the surface wet is all that's required. I've never used oil stones but this is what people I know have said about these versus wetstones. This doesn't even address the clean-up issue.

"Oil stones do not generate a slurry....the metal particles end up knocking down the edge - retarding the process."

"Oil stones also clog up really fast as well as they are unable to get as keen of an edge on your knives. Oil stones do not get into as fine of grits as water stones do.

Water > Oil"

"oil stones cut way, way, way, way slower than Japanese water stones. It isn't even close. I've tested every one on the market. And, yes, Arkansas stones are even slower than man made oil stones like India stones. It is possible to get oil stones that will polish an edge. The Lansky extra fine stone is an example. It is roughly the equivalent of a 4000 or 5000 grit waterstone. I think oil stones do a good job but a slow one."

"I don't know of any really fine oilstone which compares with waterstones in terms of fine grit and cutting speed."

Edited June 26, 2007 by Octaveman (log)

[ray goud]

I used to be a stone-purist about this until.....

I tried a dry extra-fine diamond hone. Cuts quickly, doesn't load up, swarf wipes off easily on any kind of paper or rag. So far, (five years) hasn't worn out. Look at the woodworking tool catalogs for offerings. Oh, and I do it free-hand.

Ray

[Keith Orr]

I used to be a stone-purist about this until.....

I tried a dry extra-fine diamond hone. Cuts quickly, doesn't load up, swarf wipes off easily on any kind of paper or rag. So far, (five years) hasn't worn out. Look at the woodworking tool catalogs for offerings. Oh, and I do it free-hand.

Ray

←

I'm with Ray on the diamond hone - I have coarse, medium, fine and extra fine. I use the coarse on axes only these days. The medium I only use when taking out a nick or on somebody else's dull knives to get them closer to the fine and extra fine for finished edges.

Get a regular cut F. Dick steel to hone the knife every time you use it to keep the edge up.

I've got Japanese water stones, ceramic, carborundum and natural stones carefully stored away in my tool box.

I also do it free hand.

[kpzachary]

I use Japanese water stones on my Japanese knives, and an oil stone on heavier knives like my cleaver.

[WiscoNole]

Oil.