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travelling California wine country


devlin

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Is there ever a bad time to visit California wine country? Is there a prime season we should consider? We're novices in need of advice. Recommendations for hotels, b&b's, inns, and the like.

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I think it depends on what you are looking for. Before I moved to Napa, my favorite time to visit was during Thanksgiving; harvest was over so the crowds were significantly diminished, the vines turn a stunning spectrum of fiery colors (California's version of Fall Colors), and the temperature is moderate.

During the summer and up until harvest (mid- to late-September), it can be exceedingly hot and the crowds unmanageable. By the mid-October to the beginning of November, it is lovely although there are no longer grapes on the vines which is something that some people want to see. Most people consider Harvest to be the prime season but I always found that to be the most crowded and most unseasonably hot.

Also, starting in mid- to late-February, Napa is filled with mustard blossoms and there is the Mustard Festival. Spring is beautiful and, once again, the crowds are not nearly as large as they are in the summer.

I'm sorry I don't have much information on B&Bs or Inns as I never stayed in one - I just lived there. But if you search around the site, I'm sure you'll find a few suggestions from others.

Edited by Carolyn Tillie (log)
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I think it depends on what you are looking for. Before I moved to Napa, my favorite time to visit was during Thanksgiving; harvest was over so the crowds were significantly diminished, the vines turn a stunning spectrum of fiery colors (California's version of Fall Colors), and the temperature is moderate.

During the summer and up until harvest (mid- to late-September), it can be exceedingly hot and the crowds unmanageable. By the mid-October to the beginning of November, it is lovely although there are no longer grapes on the vines which is something that some people want to see. Most people consider Harvest to be the prime season but I always found that to be the most crowded and most unseasonably hot.

Also, starting in mid- to late-February, Napa is filled with mustard blossoms and there is the Mustard Festival. Spring is beautiful and, once again, the crowds are not nearly as large as they are in the summer.

I'm sorry I don't have much information on B&Bs or Inns as I never stayed in one - I just lived there. But if you search around the site, I'm sure you'll find a few suggestions from others.

That is exactly the sort of information I'm looking for. I'd mentioned to a nephew that we didn't want to go during the peak or prime season, which I figured was probably around harvest, and he insisted there wasn't any such thing as a prime season to California wine country (which defies logic -- every place has a prime season, or anyway, it's always seemed so).

So, thank you. That's a big step in the right direction.

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I am assuming that when you mention "California Wine Country", you're referring to the Napa/Sonoma area. There are also burgeoning wine areas in San Luis Obispo and Santa Barbara in the middle and southern part of the state, but those probably would require more than one trip. A good starting point is here. This site gives you an overview of the layout of Napa Valley. Sonoma County is directly adjacent to the west, and the valleys are close enough to each other to use one as a base and do day trips to visit the other.

Carrie is right on (as always) about the times to visit. Each season has its distinct beauty there, with our favorites being fall and late winter/early spring. I think if I were to pick an ideal time, it would be between the last week of October and the first week of November. Beautiful colors, just a hint of crispness in the air, inns, tasting rooms and restaurants all uncrowded, and locals taking a deep breath after the harvest.

We liked visiting so much that we bought a place in the Napa Valley in 2003, but prior to that, we stayed in several of the properties up & down the valley. If you can indicate your price point and what amenities you are looking for, I can make some recommendations for you.

Please post any other questions you have, and I know you'll get some great answers.

"A census taker once tried to test me. I ate his liver with some fava beans and a nice chianti."

- Dr. Hannibal Lecter

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i was also thinking about doing a tour of breweries and wineries down through the state of California - but the only time I have is in February - do you think that would be an OK time to do it?

Edited by Gruzia (log)
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i was also thinking about doing a tour of breweries and wineries down through the state of California - but the only time I have is in February - do you think that would be an OK time to do it?

A-okay! It *can* be a cold but it can also be delightful. The biggest head-ache is if you travel around Valentine weekend but it is not nearly as bad as harvest.

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I am assuming that when you mention "California Wine Country", you're referring to the Napa/Sonoma area.  There are also burgeoning wine areas in San Luis Obispo and Santa Barbara in the middle and southern part of the state, but those probably would require more than one trip.  A good starting point is here.  This site gives you an overview of the layout of Napa Valley.  Sonoma County is directly adjacent to the west, and the valleys are close enough to each other to use one as a base and do day trips to visit the other.

Carrie is right on (as always) about the times to visit.  Each season has its distinct beauty there, with our favorites being fall and late winter/early spring.  I think if I were to pick an ideal time, it would be between the last week of October and the first week of November.  Beautiful colors, just a hint of crispness in the air, inns, tasting rooms and restaurants all uncrowded, and locals taking a deep breath after the harvest.

We liked visiting so much that we bought a place in the Napa Valley in 2003, but prior to that, we stayed in several of the properties up & down the valley.  If you can indicate your price point and what amenities you are looking for, I can make some recommendations for you.

Please post any other questions you have, and I know you'll get some great answers.

Actually, we've been considering all the options, including San Luis Obispo and Santa Barbara and the like, so we're gathering as much preliminary info as we can right now. I'd considered from the genesis of the idea of this that just after harvest might be more desirable for us, which I figured was probably around the time y'all have mentioned (much like much of Italy, for example), and so it's reassuring to get more concrete information like this from people who know.

I found your link, actually, the Napa/Sonoma link, just before you posted it here, and it looks useful. I've ordered some books as well, and so we're launching into exploratory mode now. I did find at least two very reasonably-priced places to stay in Petaluma which seemed a nice middlin' sort of area to stop over for the most part (not to mention it's where Alan Scott of Ovencrafters and also Della Fattoria reside, and I'd like to take my husband around to some brick oven places).

I keep finding some really beautiful inns and the like, and although I'm of course drawn to a handful of very pricey ones, I'm thinking I'd rather find a very moderately-priced lodging so we can enjoy spending money on a whole lot of other stuff while we're there.

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I agree with Carolyn that spring and fall are the best times to go. April and May have less chance of rainstorms compared to February and March.

The very last time I visited Napa Valley in the summer, which was years ago, I and my friends did a dayhike up Mount St Helena. And what was the glorious vista we saw at the top of the mountain? A thick trail of dirty brown smog swathing the entire length of the valley, from all the visitors' cars. Enough said.

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My two visits have been at Thanksgiving and we found it a lovely time to go - not too busy and everyone was very relaxed. It may not have been hot, but it was a damn sight warmer than Edinburgh is in November...

We're hoping to go back again next year, but this time in March/April to

a) see the place at a different time;

b) to see if we (more accurately I seeing as my wife has no urge to get on a boat) can see some whales heading up the Pacific coast; and

c) to see Yosemite melt waters (that's for me again).

Philip

PS

Edinburgh

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We've been narrowing our lodging search down, and I'm wondering whether Sausalito might be too far away from the actual wine country areas (it has the benefit of being close to San Francisco, of course, should we decide to spend a day there).

So the places we're considering are...

the Hotel Sausalito, which looks really lovely,

Point Reyes Country Inn and Stables, in Point Reyes, West Marin,

The Sonoma Hotel,

Les Petites Maisons in Sonoma,

Howard's End, Petaluma,

Gerstle Park Inn in San Rafael.

Opnions? Or any information about any of those particular places? Recommendations?

My husband and I have slightly different takes on the sort of place to stay. He would prefer something very private, like a small cottage, something along the order of either Howard's End or Les Petites Maisons, above.

And although I like the look of those, and the idea of them, I think that for our first foray into the area, it might be nicer to stay in a more inn-like space for a couple of reasons. One, because we don't know the area at all, an inn would have the benefit of having more immediate amenities on the premises, and also more people readily available to ask for help and information and directions and the like.

Feedback?

Edited by devlin (log)
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sausalito & san rafael are WAY too far from napa & sonoma.

there is a cute b & b in yountville called the Bordeaux House that is great & won't break the bank. also, in st helena the El Bonita is great & inexpensive.

my recent winery treks have included,

Shafer

Kosta Browne

Kutch

Outpost

Ladera

Quixote

Siduri

all are by appointment only & all were amazing!

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We stayed at both the Sonoma Hotel and the Bordeaux House on our last visit.

Sonoma Hotel was very pleasant - an old-style hotel, nicely maintained, right on the main square at Sonoma and sharing the building with the Girl and the Fig restaurant, which hit the spot for dinner one night. On our second night it was an easy walk to the General's Daughter (easy walk there at least, but a bit more of a stagger back, weighed down as we were by lots of food). Helpful, pleasant staff as well.

The Bordeaux House was fine. When we stayed there the housekeeper was on holiday, so we didn't get the second B of B&B, but that was fine as the Bouchon Bakery was a 5 minute walk away. It's a nice old stone building, with 4 or 5 bedrooms, each separately lockable, so you do not have to take the entire house and may end up sharing with other folk. There isn't any staff to speak to, unless the housekeeper normally lives on site.

PS

Edinburgh

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DVS is right - Sausalito and San Rafael are way too far away. I would also suggest that Petaluma and Point Reyes are also too far away. Sonoma is your best bet and DVS made some great winery suggestions as well... (okay, the fact that I used to work for Ladera does not influence me at all!)

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Devlin:

Check out this site. Click on either Sonoma or Napa, and then "Lodging". It's probably the most comprehensive directory I've seen. In Sonoma County, look for something in Sonoma or Glen Ellen. In Napa, your best rates will be in Napa itself, but also look in Calistoga, St. Helena and Rutherford just to compare. I also agree with Carrie and DVS that Sausilito, San Rafael, Petaluma and Point Reyes are all too far away. If you're looking at a map, it can seem very deceptive, but many of these places are very rural with narrow 2 lane roads offering the only access. And then, there's the famous Bay Area traffic to contend with. If you are interested in any of the properties on the STERBA site, let us know, and I'm sure someone will offer an opinion.

"A census taker once tried to test me. I ate his liver with some fava beans and a nice chianti."

- Dr. Hannibal Lecter

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We stayed at the Villagio Inn & Spa in Yountville this past March. I can't say enough good things about this place. The location is great, right across the street from AD HOC and Redd where we enjoyed excellent meals.

The champagne breakfast buffet set out here in the morning is amazing, very extensive with unique items you don't find in a regular hotel buffet. Have fun, we loved being in Yountville, so close to so many amazing places to eat. :)

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We stayed at the Villagio Inn & Spa in Yountville this past March. 

Did the spa construction out front bother you?

"A census taker once tried to test me. I ate his liver with some fava beans and a nice chianti."

- Dr. Hannibal Lecter

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I stayed at the Villagio two years ago and, while it was very nice, being next to the highway got on my nerves. The Villagio has reduced rates in the winter through April (about $165); I certainly wouldn't stay there for $400 a night. The concierge can be very helpful in getting a French Laundry reservation, though.

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This is all fabulously helpful. I'm following up on your suggestions, and narrowing the options. Thanks so much, and if anybody has any other thoughts, please share.

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We've been narrowing our lodging search down, and I'm wondering whether Sausalito might be too far away from the actual wine country areas (it has the benefit of being close to San Francisco, of course, should we decide to spend a day there).

So the places we're considering are...

the Hotel Sausalito, which looks really lovely,

Point Reyes Country Inn and Stables, in Point Reyes, West Marin,

The Sonoma Hotel

Les Petites Maisons in Sonoma,

Howard's End, Petaluma,

Gerstle Park Inn in San Rafael.

Opnions? Or any information about any of those particular places? Recommendations?

My husband and I have slightly different takes on the sort of place to stay. He would prefer something very private, like a small cottage, something along the order of either Howard's End or Les Petites Maisons, above.

And although I like the look of those, and the idea of them, I think that for our first foray into the area, it might be nicer to stay in a more inn-like space for a couple of reasons. One, because we don't know the area at all, an inn would have the benefit of having more immediate amenities on the premises, and also more people readily available to ask for help and information and directions and the like.

Feedback?

Check out Ramekin's Bed and Breakfast in Sonoma www.ramekins.com

We have stayed there several times and is very convienent. It is a cooking school with 6 great rooms above. Next door is The General's Daughter. Chef Preston does an amazing job. We plan to be at Ramekin's the end of Oct. You have gotten good guideance here. This is a great time to go.

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We stayed at the Hotel La Rose in downtown Santa Rosa last week. I missed out on the wine country tour that the others went on, but they had no trouble touring around the Sonoma Valley during their day trek. The hotel restaurant had excellent food (with excellent wine and service to go with it), and there were other restaurant options within easy walking distance. The rooms were inexpensive, although that might have been due to some company connection that I'm not aware of. This was my husband's second trip out there. The place is in the historic downtown area, across from the railroad museum.

If you click on the link and scroll down to the bottom of the page, you'll see the "Carriage House" across the street from the main hotel. We actually stayed there instead of in the main hotel. There's a private, quiet courtyard with fountains and lovely plants. The rooms have balconies overlooking the courtyard.

When we have time to go back and stay a while, we plan to go back to the Hotel la Rose if possible. I'd recommend it in a heartbeat.

Nancy Smith, aka "Smithy"
HosteG Forumsnsmith@egstaff.org

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