Blue Hill at Stone Barns

[docsconz]

I really like that use of various presentation platters, boards, elongated plates, slabs, racks, etc. for quasi-family-style service. Very few restaurants take that kind of advantage of the opportunity that a tasting menu for a large group presents.

Has there been discussion of the phrase "haute barnyard"? Does that come from the New York Magazine people? It's not a designation I'd necessarily embrace.

←

You are right that the term "haute barnyard" is not the most appetizing, but it fits - especially with a restaurant like BH@SB as well as others that rely on and base their output on top notch very local and very fresh produce. BH@SB, located directly on a working farm is the epitome of this designation. I actually kind of like the term as it elevates the humble to the sublime.

I'm not sure of the origen of the term, but here is a recent article from Bloomberg News that captures the spirit of the term even if it doesn't explicitly use the term.

Barber believes that people should know where their food comes from. As he buys food only from like-minded farmers, butchers and fishermen and uses the farm at Stone Barns, he can trace an egg to its henhouse.

[Fat Guy]

I'm pretty sure Adam Platt at New York Magazine coined the phrase. I think it's infantile, demeaning and misleading. But that's just me. It does seem to enjoy widespread use now.

[docsconz]

I'm pretty sure Adam Platt at New York Magazine coined the phrase. I think it's infantile, demeaning and misleading. But that's just me. It does seem to enjoy widespread use now.

←

He may or may not have meant it that way and it can certainly be taken that way, but sometimes meanings are co-opted. I think this is one of them and see it more as a badge of a certain kind of honor.

[molto e]

Doc,

That looked like a tremendous meal and your images portrayed it as such. As I look at your photos again, I am reminded of the presentations of the Tapas part of the meal at El Bulli but obviously Blue Hill showcases the majesty of the earth rather than man. I for one find both versions equally captivating but I may respect the pristine ingredients a tad more. Your photos just made this restaurant a must for me and the best images of this experience that I have seen. This may be a stupid question, but does the city outpost of Blue Hill source from the farm? Did you eat the carrots and bok choy right off the spikes undressed, no salt??

Molto E

[Sethro]

Doc, did you somehow identify yourself to the kitchen as a VIP, foodblogger, critic or somesuch? I went one day after you, paid the same price and recieved a MUCH less ambitious menu.

[smgarsh]

Doc, did you somehow identify yourself to the kitchen as a VIP, foodblogger, critic or somesuch? I went one day after you, paid the same price and recieved a MUCH less ambitious menu.

←

I agree. I went in late Dec, 06 and was underwelmed by the farmers feast.

After the meal, I thought it was the most overrated, overvalued tasting menu I've ever had.

[molto e]

Doc, did you somehow identify yourself to the kitchen as a VIP, foodblogger, critic or somesuch? I went one day after you, paid the same price and recieved a MUCH less ambitious menu.

←

At the point Doc pulled out his camera to photograph the drink may have indicated a food freak was in the house...no offense Doc

Edited April 8, 2007 by molto e (log)

[tupac17616]

Doc, did you somehow identify yourself to the kitchen as a VIP, foodblogger, critic or somesuch? I went one day after you, paid the same price and recieved a MUCH less ambitious menu.

←

I agree. I went in late Dec, 06 and was underwelmed by the farmers feast.

After the meal, I thought it was the most overrated, overvalued tasting menu I've ever had.

Uh oh. You guys are beginning to worry me. I'm going with two friends next Sunday evening, and we most definiely plan on the farmer's feast, as it will be the first visit to BH@SB for us all (we've each been to the one in the city previously).

Fingers crossed...

[docsconz]

Doc,

        That looked like a tremendous meal and your images portrayed it as such. As I look at your photos again, I am reminded of the presentations of the Tapas part of the meal at El Bulli but obviously Blue Hill showcases the majesty of the earth rather than man. I for one find both versions equally captivating but I may respect the pristine ingredients a tad more. Your photos just made this restaurant a must for me and the best images of this experience that I have seen. This may be a stupid question, but does the city outpost of Blue Hill source from the farm? Did you eat the carrots and bok choy right off the spikes undressed, no salt??

Molto E

←

Thank you, Elliot. I'm not sure about the sourcing of the urban Blue Hill though I suspect that at least some of their product is from the farm. Thank you, Elliot. I'm not sure about the sourcing of the urban Blue Hill though I suspect that at least some of their product is from the farm. We did eat the carrots and bok choy right off the spikes. While not mind-blowing in an absolute sense, the vegetables were certainly good enough to be served that way in that setting. Here is an article from Vogue that gives a little background on the relationship of the restaurant to the farm and vice versa.

One twist to the whole operation is that Barber has to pay for all those leaves and roots—the farm (Stone Barns) and the restaurant (Blue Hill) are separate businesses—and Algiere is free to sell them to a higher-paying restaurant. Barber, meanwhile, is not above haggling. "I can get tomatoes that are just as good all the way from Oaxaca for 40 percent cheaper," he says. So how does he balance making the most businesslike decision versus the one that favors both his philosophy and Algiere's operation? He's honest: "I'm not sure yet."

[docsconz]

Doc, did you somehow identify yourself to the kitchen as a VIP, foodblogger, critic or somesuch? I went one day after you, paid the same price and recieved a MUCH less ambitious menu.

←

Late in the meal, I did identify myself as a member of eGullet as I was quite pleased with what we had and I was interested in meeting Chef barber, which we did. Perhaps, as molto e said, my taking photos made a difference. The reservation wasn't in my name. Maybe I look like Bruni? Maybe they recognized JosephB as a VIP?

What were you served?

[docsconz]

Doc, did you somehow identify yourself to the kitchen as a VIP, foodblogger, critic or somesuch? I went one day after you, paid the same price and recieved a MUCH less ambitious menu.

←

I agree. I went in late Dec, 06 and was underwelmed by the farmers feast.

After the meal, I thought it was the most overrated, overvalued tasting menu I've ever had.

←

What did you find wrong with it? What kinds of places do you generally like that you have been satisfied with from a value point of view? I'm not asking to be snarky, simply curious to compare likes/dislikes. My impressions are not out of line with the majority of other posters on this board, but then as with Momofuku Ssam Bar, I have been on the other side and underwhelmed by a generally raved about restaurant.

[NYCCHEF]

That food looks absolutely stellar. Even if Doc was "made" as a VIP...the kitchen can only raise its bar for that table so much. The quality of the ingredients really shows. I have to go eat there.

[Sethro]

Late in the meal, I did identify myself as a member of eGullet as I was quite pleased with what we had and I was interested in meeting Chef barber, which we did. Perhaps, as molto e said, my taking photos made a difference. The reservation wasn't  in my name. Maybe I look like Bruni? Maybe they recognized JosephB as a VIP?

What were you served?

←

Less amuses, petit fours, luxury ingriedients. It was still a great meal, but what you had seems more deserving of the term farmers feast. Then again, every table recieves a slightly different menu, so maybe it was just luck of the draw.

[Fat Guy]

I think part of the differential may be accounted for by the opportunities that a large table presents. For example, you need a certain critical mass of people at a table before you can do a whole roast. That's just not likely to happen for a party of two, three or even four.

Also, don't underestimate the appeal of an enthusiastic party. I've trailed in many kitchens, and have often heard managers come in and say things to the chef like, "The party on table 33, they seem really nice, really into food, and they're really happy to be here." And the chef will put out an extra special meal for that table. Happens all the time.

[docsconz]

I think part of the differential may be accounted for by the opportunities that a large table presents. For example, you need a certain critical mass of people at a table before you can do a whole roast. That's just not likely to happen for a party of two, three or even four.

Also, don't underestimate the appeal of an enthusiastic party. I've trailed in many kitchens, and have often heard managers come in and say things to the chef like, "The party on table 33, they seem really nice, really into food, and they're really happy to be here." And the chef will put out an extra special meal for that table. Happens all the time.

←

A party of two at the next table were served the same lamb roast as us. I didn't notice what else they had. Another possible difference may have been that Sethro went on a Sunday, I believe. It shouldn't be different, but it may have been.

[Sethro]

Another possible difference may have been that Sethro went on a Sunday, I believe. It shouldn't be different, but it may have been.

←

Dan Barber was in the Kitchen though...I don't see what the difference would be. Unless your implying their available farm fresh bounty was significantly deplenished that night?

[JosephB]

I was impressed with Barber's successful use of winter's limited produce offerings from the farm. Each of the several beet dishes, for example, were creative and delicious. However, I would love to go back in early June or late summer when the bounty will be that much more impressive.

I'm really into the eat local thing, and really admire what Barber and certain other chefs are doing to support local food production. My family has been successful in buying most of what we eat at the the green market for several months now. We have established good relationships with some of the vendors, whom we think deliver superior produce, fish and meat (lamb, poultry, pork and eggs) at fair prices.

Edited April 8, 2007 by JosephB (log)

[JosephB]

Maybe they recognized JosephB as a VIP?

←

Oh, sure.

Actually, I think they were charmed by my friends the "Italian Farmers," as Chef Barber referred to them. One of the guy's family runs an Agriturismo in Campania, and the other's guy's family grows wine grapes in Emilia-Romagna.

[docsconz]

Maybe they recognized JosephB as a VIP?

←

Oh, sure.

Actually, I think they were charmed by my friends the "Italian Farmers," as Chef Barber referred to them. One of the guy's family runs an Agriturismo in Campania, and the other's guy's family grows wine grapes in Emilia-Romagna.

←

Quite possible, although that did not come out until well into the meal already. I would like to think that I or we would be considered VIPs, but I think the most likely possibility is that they typically do a great job and we happened to fit into that. It appears that the unlucky exception is when people are less than fully satisfied.

[JosephB]

Maybe they recognized JosephB as a VIP?

←

Oh, sure.

Actually, I think they were charmed by my friends the "Italian Farmers," as Chef Barber referred to them. One of the guy's family runs an Agriturismo in Campania, and the other's guy's family grows wine grapes in Emilia-Romagna.

←

Quite possible, although that did not come out until well into the meal already. I would like to think that I or we would be considered VIPs, but I think the most likely possibility is that they typically do a great job and we happened to fit into that. It appears that the unlucky exception is when people are less than fully satisfied.

←

Yes, I think we experienced the general excellence of BH, but I agree with Fat Guy's view that an enthusiastic group invites a desire on the part of the staff to impress.

[docsconz]

Maybe they recognized JosephB as a VIP?

←

Oh, sure.

Actually, I think they were charmed by my friends the "Italian Farmers," as Chef Barber referred to them. One of the guy's family runs an Agriturismo in Campania, and the other's guy's family grows wine grapes in Emilia-Romagna.

←

Quite possible, although that did not come out until well into the meal already. I would like to think that I or we would be considered VIPs, but I think the most likely possibility is that they typically do a great job and we happened to fit into that. It appears that the unlucky exception is when people are less than fully satisfied.

←

Yes, I think we experienced the general excellence of BH, but I agree with Fat Guy's view that an enthusiastic group invites a desire on the part of the staff to impress.

←

I agree too. That never hurts. I think in this case it was a mutual thing as their desire to please also fed our enthusiasm.

[Fat Guy]

It also doesn't hurt, when you go to a restaurant at this level, to bring a printout of the eG Forums topic, point to Doc's photos, and say "I want a meal like this one."

[tupac17616]

It also doesn't hurt, when you go to a restaurant at this level, to bring a printout of the eG Forums topic, point to Doc's photos, and say "I want a meal like this one."

←

Brilliant! Maybe that is what I'll do

[rich]

Doc, could you explain the "fried" egg dish. Is the "egg" a potato shaped like an egg, or was there an egg that isn't shown in the photo?

[FabulousFoodBabe]

Doc, what a great report -- I am addicted to those foie and chocolate wafers. Also, the little beet sliders are amazing, arent' they? I can see it now: Fabby's Foie 'n' Beet Burgers. Mmmm.

Those eggs used to be cooked in certain quantities, in a certain sized pot, for an exact amount of time, before they could be prepped for frying. Sous vide is probably easier!