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Three weeks in Yorkshire


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Yes, we're uprooting ourselves (mum, my husband and myself) and heading for Middlesbrough, we have self catering accomodation, a car and a collective love of foraging....

so, what should I be looking out for? we intend several trips out into Yorkshire (I'll be attending a hospital clinic every second day, but otherwise we are free) and would love to know of any great food shops, markets, local products and farm stores.. anything we shouldn't miss!

Mum and Husband both love fish and chips, and as mum spent many happy summers in Whitby I'd like to take her there for the day, ending in a sit down chip tea.

Spam in my pantry at home.

Think of expiration, better read the label now.

Spam breakfast, dinner or lunch.

Think about how it's been pre-cooked, wonder if I'll just eat it cold.

wierd al ~ spam

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Whitby, a grand ride from Middlesbrough and waiting at the other end. The Magpie Cafe, serving the best local fish and chips in the world.

You may need to queue for a short while, or be asked if you would mind sharing a table.

Whitby is good for a day out, with the sea breeze in your hair

Martial.2,500 Years ago:

If pale beans bubble for you in a red earthenware pot, you can often decline the dinners of sumptuous hosts.

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Going back ten years, one of my absolute best memories was picking up a handful of sausage rolls, eccles cakes, and assorted nummies and heading out to Riveaux Abbey. I'm sorry I don't recall the exact shop from which I bought the sausage roll but to this day, it is the best one I ever tasted and all others have paled in comparison. This, of course, is probably due to the surroundings and beauty of the countryside as well as the drive to the Abbey. But just having the bag of local baked goods in such a stunning location was better than much of the fine dining I had in the area.

Although I do recall a small coffee house -- decorated in the Belles Epoque fashion -- with lots of glass windows. There, I had the most amazing Welsh Rarebit and the best-tasting coffee I've ever had. So good, in fact, that I bought and shipped some of that coffee home. Sorry I don't remember names....

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The highlight of our recent run through Yorkshire was late lunch/ afternoon tea / high tea at Betty's Tea Rooms. They also sell their bakery things to take away. I had a thin crumpet like thing soaking in butter which was, perhaps understandably, just delicious. I was bowled over by the way they presented an exceedingly lengthy menu of tearoom type treats. I am not a bun eater by nature, and I prefer a short menu as a rule, but studying Betty's list got me really excited. There is a slight and interesting spin on the cake side of things, which come from a Swiss tradition, and so are more in the gateaux line. There are enough branches to call it a local chain, so you might be near one - Harrogate and York are key locations.

Catherine

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And, just to be slightly obnoxious, if you don't want to be treated like a tourist, avoid the Betty's in Haggogate and York and try the ones in either Ilkley (which is probably too far south for you) or Northallerton (which is a lovely little market town near to the beautiful Mount Grace Priory).

Equally obnoxiously, I tend to rate the Magpie as one of the worst fshnchps shops in Whitby. But, honestly, its very very hard to go wrong if you buy from the front. And eating out of paper while watching the sea is part of the experience.

The Star at Harome is a must, as is wandering around Helmsley the nearby town, which has a wonderful cake/biscuit maker amongst many other things. As Mr. Marshall says, there's a host of great pubs in North Yorkshire, and working your way round them will keep you happy and full.

It no longer exists, but it was lovely.

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And, just to be slightly obnoxious, if you don't want to be treated like a tourist, avoid the Betty's in Haggogate and York and try the ones in either Ilkley (which is probably too far south for you) or Northallerton (which is a lovely little market town near to the beautiful Mount Grace Priory).

Seconded - and if memory services the Northallerton branch is right opposite Lewis and Coopers, which is pretty much like finding a Selfridge's food hall plonked in the middle of a small market town: Lewis and Cooper

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oh my!

thank you guys for all your suggestions, I really like the points about avoiding the completely touristy spots (husband is a total tourist, I get shy, lol) and fish and chips by the seafront (no better seasoning than salt air :wub: )

welsh rarebit is the best thing on the planet (as of right now!) and I will try to track down the example you mention carolyn!

Lewis and cooper, the star, oh temptations!

between this thread and this website that I found it looks like we'll have a lot of fun!

all I need to do now is overcome my fear of aga cooking, lol.

Spam in my pantry at home.

Think of expiration, better read the label now.

Spam breakfast, dinner or lunch.

Think about how it's been pre-cooked, wonder if I'll just eat it cold.

wierd al ~ spam

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  • 1 month later...

Its about an hour (maybe more, the roads aren't great) from the Yorke Arms, a bit more to the Angel at Hetton. However, there's some very nice places nearer in, especially at the pub with dining end of things. The Blue Lion at East Witton is lovely, as is the Bruce Arms at West Tanfield (just south of Masham), but both usually require booking (and might not be open Mondays).

Masham also has the Black Sheep brewery which does fine fshnchps and more seriously Vennells, which I think has a bib--relaxed bistro-y place with high and inventive standards. Just outside Masham is also Swinton Park which is much posher, has two or three rosettes, and contains the Schrager Cookery School. Masham's just generally lovely on every level--excellent suasage butchers there.

Northallerton is within range for Betty's and the best deli in the North (over the road from Betty's). Hawes is nice, well the Wensleydale cafe anyway. Bedale isn't very nice. everywhere else is pretty picture perfect.

If you're sightseeing don't miss Castle Bolton, Jervaulx and Ripon Cathedral.

Not been to the Heifer. A friend went and enjoyed it. Sure its fine.

It no longer exists, but it was lovely.

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Bertie, thank you so much for all those. We are only there Sat-Mon but the folks are there all week so this will give them plenty to go on. I'll print this thread out for them and ask them to report back!

Not sure a trip to the Black Sheep brewery is a good idea, won't be able to prise Mr Woman and my dad away :biggrin: The Blue Lion looks good though, nice to see a proper inn that doesn't look to faffed around with.

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  • 3 years later...

Decided to fluff this thread to keep things tidy - we're heading to a cottage in Bedale (in Wensleydale near Leyburn) around Easter.

I'd appreciate tips though on undiscovered good restaurants/pubs in North Yorks or even as far as Leeds York and Harrogate, as well as good food shops - Lewis & Cooper sounds fabulous.

I'm originally from Yorkshire, and we have been to York recently, so know about Betty's in Northallerton, and the various Michlin-starred places. I'm looking for something, if possible, that hasn't hit the journalists' radar yet!

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I stayed in the area a quite few years ago. The sandpiper in Leyburn was good. Also - Chris Staines is working at the faversham arms in helmsley at the moment. There was also a place in Harrogate that got a few mentions on here a year or so ago - van zeller.

Martin

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  • 9 months later...

Just saw that someone mentioned Whitby in this thread. I had some amazing Fish and Chips there but found it quite hard to find a place that did fresh fish. I went too the posh looking place on the main waterfront and asked if their fish was fresh, the chap laughed at me and said he hadnt seen fresh fish in these waters for many years!! I walked out disappointed.

I did however use my iphone to google and found myself in a street behind said place and found somewhere that did fresh fish, and it was very yummy.

Also, on the way back through the moors we stopped off at a tiny little bakery in sleights and got a pork pie, and this pork pie was the best pork pie I have ever eaten. In fact, I would almost be tempted to make the 6 hour return trip just to get some more!!! (ok I wouldn't even consider that, but saying I would consider it even without any truthfulness in my gesture shows how good it was).

Cheers

Chris

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